Wild Daisy Chain Crochet Table Runner — Free Crochet Pattern

There is something undeniably romantic about a table runner covered in daisies. Whether you lay it across a farmhouse dining table, a cozy breakfast nook, or even a coffee table piled with books and candles, a daisy-covered runner transforms an ordinary surface into something that feels like it was pulled straight from a sun-drenched meadow. This Wild Daisy Chain Crochet Table Runner is one of those patterns that looks far more complicated than it actually is, and that is exactly the kind of project worth spending a weekend on.

This free crochet pattern walks you through creating a gorgeous, boho-inspired table runner using a repeating daisy motif worked in a chain-link style. The result is a flowing, textured piece that catches the light beautifully and pairs just as well with rustic linen as it does with a modern minimalist table setting. Whether you are a confident beginner or an experienced crocheter looking for a meditative, satisfying project, this pattern is written clearly and in full for you to follow at your own pace.

Let’s get into everything you need to know before picking up your hook.

About This Pattern

The Wild Daisy Chain Table Runner is worked in joined rounds of individual daisy motifs that are connected as you go, creating a long chain of flowers with a lacy, open quality. Each motif is small enough to finish in under twenty minutes, which makes this an excellent project for crochet sessions where you only have a little time. Before you know it, you will have a dozen motifs done and the runner will start taking its recognizable shape.

The finished runner measures approximately 14 inches wide and 48 inches long, which fits most standard dining tables beautifully as a centerpiece runner. You can easily adjust the length by adding or subtracting daisy motifs from the chain. The width can be adjusted too by working additional motifs side by side during each round of joining.

Materials You Will Need

Before you begin, gather everything listed below. Having your materials ready before you start makes the crocheting experience much smoother and more enjoyable.

Yarn: Approximately 400 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn in your main color (white or cream works beautifully for a classic daisy look), and about 100 yards in a contrasting color for the flower centers (soft yellow is traditional, but dusty gold, pale peach, or even sage green all look stunning). You can also work the entire runner in a single color for a more monochromatic, elegant look. A mercerized cotton gives a lovely sheen and holds up well on a table surface.

Hook: US Size H/8 (5.0mm) crochet hook. You may adjust hook size to achieve gauge.

Other Supplies: Scissors, a yarn needle for weaving in ends, blocking mats and rust-proof pins, a spray bottle with water or a bowl of water for wet blocking. A measuring tape is also helpful.

Gauge: One completed daisy motif should measure approximately 3.5 inches across. Gauge is not critical for this project, but consistent motif sizing will ensure a neat, even runner. If your motifs are coming out smaller or larger than 3.5 inches, you can adjust your hook size accordingly.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble crochet
sp — space
st — stitch
rep — repeat
BLO — back loop only
MR — magic ring (also called a magic circle)
[ ] — instructions within brackets are worked the number of times indicated

Special Stitches

Petal Stitch: The petal stitch creates each daisy petal and is worked as follows — ch 3, tr in the same stitch or space indicated, ch 3, sl st in the same stitch or space. This forms a soft, rounded petal shape.

Joining Petal: When joining one motif to the next, you will work a modified petal that connects the two motifs. Instructions are given in the pattern where applicable.

The Daisy Motif — Full Instructions

Each table runner is made up of individual daisy motifs. Work as many as you need for your desired length, then join them following the assembly instructions below.

Round 1 — The Center:
Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 11 more dc into the ring. Pull ring closed and sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3 to join. You will have 12 dc stitches total. If you prefer not to use a magic ring, ch 4 and sl st to form a ring, then work 12 dc into the ring.

Round 2 — Creating the Petals:
Sl st into the first dc from Round 1. [Work one Petal Stitch in the current stitch, sl st into the next dc] — repeat this sequence around all 12 stitches. At the end of Round 2, you will have 12 petals surrounding the center. Fasten off the main color and weave in the end securely, or leave a tail to weave in later.

Round 3 — The Background Ring:
Join your contrast color (or second skein of the same color if working in a single color) to any ch-3 space between two petals. Ch 1, sc in the same space. [Ch 5, sc in the next ch-3 space] — repeat all the way around. You will have 12 ch-5 spaces in total when this round is complete. Sl st to the first sc to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.

This completes one daisy motif. Make as many individual motifs as you need before beginning the joining process — for the standard 48-inch runner, you will need approximately 28 to 32 motifs depending on how tightly or loosely you join them.

Joining the Motifs

The magic of this runner lies in how the individual daisies link together into a long, flowing chain. The method used here is a join-as-you-go approach that creates a stable connection while maintaining the lacy open look of the runner.

First Motif Placement: Lay your first finished motif flat and identify any ch-5 space as your anchor point. This will be where the second motif attaches.

Joining the Second Motif: Begin Round 3 of your second motif as usual. When you reach the ch-5 space that will connect to the first motif, work the join as follows: ch 2, sl st into the corresponding ch-5 space on the first motif, ch 2, then continue with sc in the next space on the second motif as normal. This creates a flat, invisible join that holds the motifs together firmly without puckering.

For the Wild Daisy Chain layout, each motif connects to the previous one at two points — one ch-5 space on the left side and one ch-5 space on the right side of the connection point. This means each pair of adjacent motifs shares two joining points, which gives the runner stability and prevents the motifs from shifting or rotating over time.

Building the Chain: Continue making and joining motifs in a single line until your runner reaches the desired length. For a 48-inch runner, join approximately 14 to 16 motifs in a single column. For a wider runner, join two parallel columns and then connect the columns to each other in the same fashion, connecting the side ch-5 spaces of adjacent motifs in neighboring columns.

Two-Column Layout: If you would like a wider, more lush runner, work two parallel columns of motifs and join them side by side. The columns are connected at their shared ch-5 spaces in exactly the same way as the linear chain. This doubles the material and gives a finished width of approximately 7 inches (one column) or 14 inches (two columns joined side by side).

Edging

Once all motifs are joined and the runner is the length and width you desire, finish the piece with a simple border that neatens the outer edges and adds a subtle frame.

Round 1 of Edging: Join yarn to any outer ch-5 space along the long edge of the runner. Ch 1, sc in the same space. Work 5 sc into each ch-5 space around the entire perimeter of the runner, working 3 sc into any corner spaces to allow the edge to lie flat. Sl st to the first sc to join. Do not fasten off.

Round 2 of Edging: Ch 1, sc in the first sc. [Ch 3, skip 2 sc, sc in the next sc] — repeat this picot sequence all the way around the runner. Work [sc, ch 3, sc] into each corner sc to maintain the flat corners. Sl st to the first sc to join and fasten off.

Weave in all remaining ends securely. This simple picot edging echoes the lacy quality of the daisy motifs and gives the runner a finished, intentional look.

Blocking Your Table Runner

Blocking is the step that takes a crochet project from looking handmade to looking professionally crafted, and for a lacy piece like this, it is absolutely worth doing.

Soak the finished runner in cool water with a drop of gentle wool wash or dish soap for about 20 minutes, or until it is fully saturated. Gently press out the excess water — do not wring or twist — and then roll it in a clean towel to absorb more moisture.

Lay the runner on your blocking mats and use rust-proof pins to stretch and shape each daisy motif. Pin the petals open and stretch the ch-5 spaces gently to open the lacy background. Pin the corners and edges straight. The runner should be stretched to its finished measurements at this point.

Allow it to dry completely before removing the pins. For cotton yarn this can take 12 to 24 hours depending on humidity. Once dry, the runner will hold its shape beautifully and the motifs will lie flat and even.

Tips for Success

Working with small motifs can feel a little fiddly at first, but there are a few things that make the process much smoother. First, take the time to count your stitches at the end of each round. Round 1 should have exactly 12 dc, and Round 2 should have exactly 12 petals. If your count is off, it is easier to rip back one round than to discover the mistake several motifs later.

When weaving in ends, use a sharp yarn needle and weave through several stitches in alternating directions to secure the end firmly. Cotton yarn does not felt the way wool does, so taking care with end-weaving is important to prevent the work from unraveling with use and washing.

Keep your tension consistent throughout the project. If you tend to crochet more tightly when you are tired or distracted, try to do your crocheting in one stretch of time for each motif, or at least take note of when your tension might be drifting.

Yarn Substitutions and Color Ideas

This pattern is very forgiving when it comes to yarn choices, and it is a wonderful opportunity to use up partial skeins from your stash. Here are a few color combinations worth considering.

A classic all-white runner with yellow centers is timeless and works with almost any table setting. Ivory with dusty sage green centers has a more sophisticated, botanical feel. A rainbow of pastel flower centers — one color per motif — against a white background gives a cheerful, vintage quilt aesthetic that would be perfect for a spring brunch table. A deep terracotta or burnt orange yarn with cream centers reads as very boho and autumnal. For a winter or holiday look, try working the motifs in metallics or rich jewel tones.

If you are working in a thinner yarn, such as DK or fingering weight, your motifs will be smaller and more delicate. A fingering weight runner makes a beautiful dresser scarf or vanity runner. Just remember to adjust your hook size and your motif count accordingly.

Caring for Your Table Runner

Cotton is one of the easiest fibers to care for, and a cotton table runner is very practical for daily use. Machine wash on a gentle cycle in cool water, or hand wash if you want to extend the life of the piece. Lay flat to dry rather than tumble drying, as heat can cause cotton to shrink and may distort the lacy motif structure. If the runner becomes wrinkled after washing, a light pressing with a damp cloth on the wrong side of the work will restore it.

Store the runner folded loosely or rolled rather than folded tightly, which can leave permanent crease marks in the ch-5 spaces over time.

About Amigurumi and Table Linen Crochet

At amigurumi, we love sharing patterns that bring warmth and personality to your home. While our name points to our roots in soft toy and character crochet, we have long believed that crochet is for every corner of your home and every surface of your table. Home décor crochet has a rich tradition, from the elegant doilies of the Victorian era to the bold, color-saturated pieces of 1970s bohemian interiors to the modern, minimalist textile art of today. This Wild Daisy Chain Table Runner sits somewhere in that lineage — it is rooted in tradition but fresh enough for a contemporary home.

If you make this runner, we would genuinely love to see it. Share your finished piece on Instagram or Pinterest and tag us so we can admire your work and share your colors and creativity with our community. Every crocheter puts their own small signature on a pattern through their color choices, their tension, their personal sense of style, and seeing those variations is one of the most beautiful parts of sharing free patterns with a community of makers.

Final Thoughts

The Wild Daisy Chain Crochet Table Runner is the kind of project that gives you a finished piece you will actually use. It is not fussy or fragile — it washes well, it lays flat, and it adds something genuinely lovely to any room. The modular motif construction means you can pause and pick it back up without losing your place, and the repetitive nature of working the same small motif over and over becomes meditative after the first few rounds.

We hope you enjoy making this as much as we enjoyed designing it. Happy crocheting, and may your table always have flowers on it.