How to Crochet the Jasmine Stitch: A Complete Step-by-Step Pattern and Tutorial

If you’ve been scrolling through crochet inspiration and keep stopping at those lush, textured stitch patterns that look almost too beautiful to be real, there’s a good chance you’ve stumbled across the Jasmine Stitch. With its dimensional, flower-like clusters and rich, layered fabric, the Jasmine Stitch is one of those stitches that looks incredibly complex but is surprisingly approachable once you understand the rhythm of it.

In this complete step-by-step tutorial, you’ll learn exactly how to work the Jasmine Stitch from start to finish — including the foundational concepts, the materials you’ll need, how to set up your foundation chain, a full written pattern, row-by-row instructions, and tips for troubleshooting common mistakes. Whether you’re a confident beginner or an intermediate crocheter looking to expand your stitch library, this guide has everything you need to create stunning Jasmine Stitch projects.

What Is the Jasmine Stitch?

The Jasmine Stitch — sometimes called the Star Stitch or Catherine Wheel Stitch — is a pattern built from clusters of elongated stitches that are drawn together through a shared loop at the top. The result is a fabric that looks like rows of little flowers or stars, each one slightly raised from the surface to give the textile a gorgeous three-dimensional texture.

What makes the Jasmine Stitch special is the interplay between right-side and wrong-side rows. On the right side rows, you form the “jasmine clusters” by drawing up multiple loops from several different stitches below, then pulling a single loop through all of them. On the wrong side rows, you work a simple chain stitch between each cluster to give the next row its anchor points. Once you understand this rhythm — cluster row, chain row, cluster row, chain row — the stitch becomes almost meditative to work.

The fabric produced by the Jasmine Stitch is thick, stretchy in the width, and has a slight density that makes it perfect for warm items. Because of this, it’s a popular choice for scarves, cowls, bags, and even blankets. It works equally well in chunky yarn for quick home décor projects or in fingering weight yarn for delicate, heirloom-quality shawls.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you dive in, gather your supplies. Having everything at hand before you start will make the learning process much smoother.

Yarn: For learning purposes, choose a smooth, light-colored worsted weight yarn (size 4). Light colors make it much easier to see your stitch structure and count your loops. Once you’ve mastered the technique, feel free to experiment with bulkier yarns or variegated colorways.

Hook: A 5mm (H/8) or 5.5mm (I/9) crochet hook pairs well with worsted weight yarn. Check the yarn label for the recommended hook size and adjust for your tension as needed.

Scissors: Any sharp pair will do.

Yarn Needle: For weaving in ends once your project is complete.

Stitch Markers (optional): Helpful for marking the beginning of rows while you’re learning.

Gauge: Because the Jasmine Stitch involves pulling up multiple loops, tension can vary significantly between crocheters. A general gauge to aim for is about 4 jasmine clusters wide and 4 rows tall per 4 inches in worsted weight yarn with a 5.5mm hook, but always check your specific pattern’s gauge requirements before starting a project.

Understanding the Abbreviations and Special Stitches

Here is a quick reference for the abbreviations used throughout this tutorial.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
JS — Jasmine Stitch cluster (detailed below)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
sk — skip
sp — space
rep — repeat
pm — place marker
st(s) — stitch(es)

The Jasmine Stitch Cluster (JS): This is the star of the show. To make one JS, you will insert your hook into the designated stitch or space, yarn over, and pull up a loop (called a “long loop” because you’ll extend it slightly taller than a normal loop). You’ll repeat this pull-up action in several more stitches or spaces across the row. Once all loops are on the hook, you yarn over and draw the working yarn through all loops at once, then chain 1 to secure and close the cluster. The specific number of pull-ups per cluster depends on the stitch variation you’re using (more on this below).

Two Main Variations of the Jasmine Stitch

There are two common versions of this stitch that you’ll encounter in patterns, and it’s helpful to understand the difference before you begin.

The 5-Petal Jasmine Stitch: This version pulls up 5 loops per cluster (one from each of 5 different positions), making a wider, more open flower shape. This is the more traditional version and what most people mean when they refer to the Jasmine Stitch.

The 3-Petal Star Stitch: This version pulls up 3 or 4 loops per cluster, creating a slightly smaller, denser star shape. Many beginners find this easier to learn first because there are fewer loops to manage on the hook at once.

This tutorial will walk you through the full 5-petal Jasmine Stitch, which is the classic version. Once you have this down, adapting to the 3-petal variation is simple.

Setting Up Your Foundation Chain

The Jasmine Stitch requires a specific multiple for the foundation chain because of how the clusters span across stitches. For the 5-petal version, you need a multiple of 4 stitches, plus 2 additional chains for the setup.

Foundation Chain Formula: (4 × number of desired clusters) + 2

So for example, if you want 6 clusters across, chain (4 × 6) + 2 = 26 chains.

For practice purposes, chain 18. This gives you 4 clusters across with the correct setup chains, which is a manageable width for learning.

Step-by-Step Jasmine Stitch Tutorial

Now let’s get into the actual stitching. Read through all of the steps once before picking up your hook — having the full picture in your head before you begin will make the execution much more intuitive.

Foundation Row (Wrong Side)

Begin with your foundation chain of 18.

Working into the chain, single crochet in the 2nd chain from your hook and in every chain across. You should have 17 single crochets at the end of this row. Turn your work.

This row creates a neat, even base for your first cluster row to work into. Some patterns skip this and work directly into the foundation chain, but the single crochet foundation row gives you much cleaner results and easier loop placement.

Row 1: First Jasmine Cluster Row (Right Side)

This is where the magic begins. Make sure your right side is facing you.

Step 1: Chain 1. Do not turn. You’ll be working back across the row in the opposite direction. Wait — actually, for Row 1, you will turn your work as usual so your RS is facing you. Chain 1 (this does not count as a stitch).

Step 2: Insert your hook into the very first stitch at the base of your chain-1. Yarn over and pull up a long loop — extend it to roughly the height of the row you’re working. Leave this loop on your hook.

Step 3: Insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and pull up another long loop. You now have 3 loops on your hook.

Step 4: Insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and pull up another long loop. You now have 4 loops on your hook.

Step 5: Insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and pull up another long loop. You now have 5 loops on your hook.

Step 6: Insert your hook into the next stitch. Yarn over and pull up one final long loop. You now have 6 loops on your hook.

Step 7: Yarn over and draw through all 6 loops on your hook at once. Pull firmly but not too tightly — you want the cluster to gather neatly without puckering. This completes your first jasmine cluster.

Step 8: Chain 1 to secure the cluster. This chain-1 forms the “eye” at the center of your jasmine flower and creates the anchor point for the next row.

Step 9: Now you need to begin your next cluster. Here’s a key detail: the next cluster shares some of its pickup stitches with the previous cluster. Insert your hook back into the last stitch you used in the previous cluster (the 5th stitch), pull up a long loop. Then pull up loops from stitches 6, 7, 8, and 9. You now have 6 loops on your hook again.

Step 10: Yarn over, draw through all 6 loops. Chain 1 to secure.

Continue in this way across the row, always going back one stitch to begin the next cluster, until you reach the end of the row.

At the end of the row, you should have 4 jasmine clusters and your final stitch may be a single crochet into the last stitch. Turn your work.

Row 2: Chain-Space Row (Wrong Side)

This row is worked on the wrong side and creates the structure that the next cluster row works into. It’s sometimes called the “connector row” or “rest row.”

Step 1: Chain 1.

Step 2: Single crochet into the first stitch (the edge stitch).

Step 3: Chain 3. Single crochet into the eye (the chain-1 space) of the first jasmine cluster from the previous row.

Step 4: Chain 3. Single crochet into the eye of the next jasmine cluster.

Step 5: Repeat Step 4 across, working a chain-3 followed by a single crochet into each cluster eye.

Step 6: Chain 3. Single crochet into the last stitch at the end of the row. Turn.

Row 3: Second Jasmine Cluster Row (Right Side)

Row 3 follows the same principles as Row 1 but this time the clusters are worked into the chain-3 spaces and single crochets of Row 2. This is what creates the offset or “brick-like” placement of the clusters from row to row.

Step 1: Chain 1.

Step 2: Pull up a long loop from the first sc of the previous row. Pull up a long loop from the first chain-3 space (go into the space, not around the chain). Pull up another loop from the same chain-3 space. Pull up a loop from the sc between spaces. Pull up a loop from the next chain-3 space. Yarn over, draw through all 6 loops. Chain 1 to secure.

Step 3: For the next cluster, go back into the same chain-3 space as the last petal of the previous cluster, pull up a loop. Then pull up loops from the sc, the next ch-3 space twice, and the next sc. Yarn over, draw through all 6 loops. Chain 1 to secure.

Continue in this pattern across the row.

Step 4: After the final cluster, single crochet into the last stitch. Turn.

Continuing the Pattern

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 to grow your fabric. Every even row is a chain-space row on the wrong side, and every odd row is a jasmine cluster row on the right side. After several repeats, you’ll begin to see the beautiful floral texture emerge.

Work as many rows as your pattern calls for, or until your piece reaches the desired length.

Finishing Your Work

When you’ve completed the final jasmine cluster row and are ready to bind off, work one final connector row (like Row 2) to give the top edge a tidy finish. Then work one row of single crochet across the top, inserting your hook into each chain-3 space and the single crochets between them. This mirrors the foundation row at the bottom and gives your piece a symmetrical look.

Fasten off by cutting the yarn about 6 inches from your hook, pulling the tail through the final loop, and tugging gently to secure. Thread the tail onto your yarn needle and weave it through the nearby stitches on the wrong side, going in a few different directions to lock it in place. Trim the excess. Repeat for any other ends.

If your finished fabric feels stiff or the clusters seem tight, a light blocking session can open up the stitches beautifully. Wet blocking — soaking the piece in lukewarm water, gently pressing out the excess, and laying flat to dry on a towel — works well for natural fibers like wool and cotton. Steam blocking is another option if you’re working with acrylic.

Tips for Success

Keep your long loops consistent. The beauty of the Jasmine Stitch lies in its uniformity. As you pull up loops, try to extend them to a consistent height every time — roughly the height of a double crochet is a good mental benchmark. Inconsistent loop heights lead to a lumpy, uneven texture.

Don’t pull the closing loop too tight. When you yarn over and draw through all loops to close a cluster, the temptation is to cinch it down tightly. Resist this. A firmly but not overly tight closure keeps the cluster open and floral-looking rather than pinched and dense.

Count your clusters. Especially while learning, count the jasmine clusters in each row to make sure you’re maintaining the correct stitch count. If you’re ending up with more or fewer clusters than the previous row, go back and check your pickup points — you may be skipping a stitch or doubling up.

Use stitch markers for the eyes. Drop a stitch marker into the chain-1 at the center of each cluster as you make it. This makes finding the eyes on the next connector row significantly easier, especially if you’re working with a dark yarn.

Work in good lighting. The Jasmine Stitch involves a lot of careful stitch placement, and it’s much easier to see your pickup points in natural light or under a good craft lamp.

Practice with scrap yarn first. Before starting a big project, invest 30–45 minutes making a practice swatch. Even if you feel confident after reading the instructions, muscle memory takes a few rows to kick in, and you’ll want to work out any confusion before committing to a project.

Project Ideas for the Jasmine Stitch

Once you’ve got the stitch down, the possibilities are genuinely wonderful. Here are some project ideas to spark your creativity.

A Jasmine Stitch Scarf is the classic beginner project for this stitch. Cast on enough chains for a scarf width of about 5–6 inches and work until you reach your desired length. The natural stretch of the stitch makes it comfortable around the neck, and the floral texture means even a single-color scarf looks elaborate and special.

A Jasmine Stitch Cowl worked in the round requires a few modifications to the pattern (specifically, adjusting how alternating rounds are worked since you won’t be turning), but the resulting fabric is cozy, thick, and absolutely beautiful.

A Jasmine Stitch Bag is an excellent way to show off the texture of this stitch. Because the fabric is dense and stable, it holds the shape of a tote or market bag quite well. Work a rectangle for the body of the bag, seam the sides, and add handles in whatever style you prefer.

A Jasmine Stitch Baby Blanket in soft, baby-safe yarn creates a heirloom-quality gift that will likely be kept for years. The three-dimensional texture is gentle and cozy against delicate skin.

Pillow covers, pot holders, and headbands are all great small projects for practicing and showing off the stitch without committing to a large time investment.

Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them

The clusters look flat or uneven: This is usually a tension issue. Make sure your long loops are all pulled to a consistent height before you close the cluster.

The edges are pulling in: This sometimes happens when the edge stitches of each row aren’t being worked correctly. Double-check that you’re single crocheting into the last chain-3 space and the final stitch at the end of each connector row.

The stitch count is increasing or decreasing: This typically means you’re not picking up from the correct stitches when starting each new cluster. Remember that each cluster shares one pickup stitch with the cluster before it — not two, not zero, but exactly one.

The eyes are hard to find on connector rows: This is the most common frustration for beginners. Slow down on the cluster rows and always chain-1 firmly after closing each cluster. Using a st