Daffodil Altar Lace Filet Crochet Pattern: Complete Instructions and Chart

There is something almost sacred about the process of creating lace. Thread by thread, stitch by stitch, a design emerges from nothing but a ball of cotton and a slim steel hook, and suddenly you are holding something that looks like it belongs in a cathedral or draped across a grandmother’s beloved oak sideboard. Filet crochet, in particular, carries this quality of devotion with it. The grid-based technique, with its open mesh spaces and filled blocks, produces patterns that feel architectural and delicate at once, and when the subject is the daffodil — that herald of spring, that golden trumpet of renewal — the result is nothing short of breathtaking.

This guide covers everything you need to know to complete a Daffodil Altar Lace Filet Crochet Pattern from start to finish. Whether you are a seasoned lace maker returning to a beloved craft or an intermediate crocheter ready to move beyond solid fabric into the airy world of filet work, these complete instructions, chart guidance, and technique notes will carry you through with confidence.

What Is Filet Crochet and Why Daffodils?

Filet crochet is a style of crocheting that creates pictures or patterns within a grid structure. The grid is formed by a combination of open squares (called spaces or mesh) and filled squares (called blocks). Open spaces typically consist of a chain-two arch bridging two double crochet posts, while filled blocks use double crochets packed together to close the space. When you look at a filet crochet piece from a distance, the arrangement of these open and filled squares resolves into a recognizable image — in this case, the elegant, trumpeted bloom of the daffodil.

Daffodils are among the most beloved flowers in the Western tradition, and for good reason. They are among the first flowers to push through cold soil after winter, and their golden yellow coloring carries associations of hope, renewal, and faithfulness. These qualities make them particularly fitting for altar lace — the decorative linen or thread fabric traditionally used to adorn church altars, communion rails, and religious ceremony tables. The daffodil altar lace pattern is a perennial favorite among church needlework guilds, historic preservation societies, and home decorators alike. It pairs the spiritual undertones of floral imagery with the meditative patience that lace work demands.

Materials You Will Need

Before you sit down to begin, gather everything you need so the work flows without interruption.

Thread: Use a size 10 crochet cotton thread. White or ecru are the traditional choices for altar lace and produce the crispest definition of the filet grid. Brands like Coats and Clark, Aunt Lydia’s, or DMC Traditions all perform well. You will need approximately 300 to 500 yards depending on the finished dimensions you choose. For a runner of roughly 12 by 36 inches, plan for about 400 yards.

Hook: A size 7 steel crochet hook (1.65mm) pairs well with size 10 thread and gives a firm, even tension without being so tight that the hook drags. Some crocheters with a naturally loose tension find a size 6 steel hook (1.8mm) better suited.

Foundation materials: A row counter, either physical or on your phone, will prove invaluable. A blocking board, rustproof T-pins, and a spray bottle of water complete the finishing supplies.

Optional but helpful: A chart holder or clipboard to hold your printed chart, a highlighter or washi tape to mark completed rows, and a ruler to check your gauge.

Understanding the Filet Crochet Chart

The chart for the Daffodil Altar Lace pattern is read in a grid format. Each square of the grid represents one unit of the filet structure. An empty square on the chart is an open space (mesh), and a filled or darkened square is a closed block. Working from the chart is intuitive once you understand the basic translation.

Row 1 begins at the bottom right of the chart if you are right-handed (bottom left if left-handed), and you read alternate rows in alternate directions, moving back and forth across the piece just as you work. Odd-numbered rows typically read right to left; even-numbered rows read left to right, though some printed charts label these differently, so always check the key that accompanies your specific chart.

Each square in the chart equals the following in stitches:

An open space (mesh) = chain 2, skip 2 stitches, double crochet in next stitch.

A filled block = double crochet in each of the next 3 stitches (or: double crochet, double crochet, double crochet across 3 stitches, sharing posts with adjacent blocks as needed).

When multiple blocks sit side by side, you do not repeat the beginning or ending post — the double crochet that closes one block opens the next. This shared-post structure is what gives filet crochet its characteristic firmness at filled areas.

The Daffodil Altar Lace chart typically spans between 30 and 50 grid squares in width and between 80 and 120 grid rows in length for a standard altar runner. The central motif features one or more daffodil blooms rising on stems with leaves, often flanked by a simple geometric border that emphasizes the lacy nature of the surrounding mesh.

Gauge

Getting gauge right in filet crochet is more important than many beginners realize. Because the pattern depends on a grid, being even slightly off in your gauge will cause the squares to look rectangular rather than square, and the daffodil image will appear stretched or compressed.

The standard gauge for size 10 thread on a size 7 steel hook is approximately 5 spaces and 5 rows equal 1 inch. Before you begin the main project, work a gauge swatch of at least 20 stitches and 20 rows. Measure it. If your squares are taller than wide, try a larger hook. If they are wider than tall, try a smaller hook.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

ch — chain
dc — double crochet
sp — space (open mesh unit)
bl — block (filled mesh unit)
sk — skip
st — stitch
sl st — slip stitch
beg — beginning
rep — repeat
RS — right side
WS — wrong side

Foundation Chain

The foundation chain determines the width of your piece and must be calculated carefully. Each space or block in the first row requires 3 chains (for the body of the stitch unit) plus 1 additional chain for the turning. An additional 3 chains serves as the turning chain that stands in as the first double crochet of the new row.

For a runner with 40 squares across:
40 units × 3 chains = 120 chains, plus 5 chains for setup = 125 foundation chains.

Always make your foundation chain loosely. A tight foundation chain will pucker the bottom edge of your piece and make it impossible to block straight.

Row-by-Row Instructions

The following instructions describe the general structure of the Daffodil Altar Lace pattern. Because charts vary by publisher and specific design, these instructions are written to pair with a standard daffodil filet chart. Follow your chart square by square while using these instructions as your translation guide.

Foundation Row: Chain the appropriate number as calculated above. Work your first row of all-open mesh to establish the grid foundation.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 5, turn. (The ch-5 counts as dc plus ch 2.) Sk the first 3 ch of the foundation, dc in the 4th ch from hook. Ch 2, sk 2 ch, dc in next ch. Repeat from to across. You now have a full row of open mesh.

Row 2 (WS): Ch 5, turn. Following your chart, work the second row, filling blocks where the chart shows filled squares and leaving spaces open where the chart shows empty squares. To fill a block over a previous space: dc in the ch-2 space (2 dc), dc in the next dc (1 dc), creating 3 dc plus the dc post on either side, which equals a filled block. To work an open space over a previous block: ch 2, sk 2 dc, dc in next dc.

Continue in this manner, reading your chart row by row, until the daffodil motif is complete. Standard daffodil designs build the stem in the lower rows with a narrow vertical column of filled blocks, open into the leaf shapes with diagonal lines of blocks, and then expand into the corona (the trumpet) and petals of the flower in the upper rows. The trumpet of the daffodil is often depicted with a cluster of filled blocks arranged in an oval or bell shape, while the petals radiate outward as slightly more open, irregular shapes.

Border Rows: After completing the main daffodil motif section, most altar lace patterns include one to three rows of edging. A common choice is a single row of all-open mesh, followed by a slip stitch row or a simple shell edging worked along all four sides.

Working the Edging

The edging transforms a flat piece of filet grid into finished altar lace with drape and presence. A classic option for the daffodil altar lace is the following picot shell edging:

With the RS facing, join thread at any corner. Ch 1. In the corner work 3 sc, ch 3, 3 sc (corner picot). Along each long edge: work 3 sc across the next 3 row ends, ch 3, sl st in the base of the ch-3 (picot made), rep from across. At the next corner, work 3 sc, ch 3, 3 sc. Continue around all four sides, joining with a sl st to the first sc.

This edging produces small, rounded picot points along the entire perimeter, adding elegance without overwhelming the delicacy of the lace itself.

Blocking Your Altar Lace

Blocking is not optional for filet crochet. It is the step that transforms a crinkled, somewhat stiff piece of thread work into the luminous, flat, crisp fabric it was designed to be. Without blocking, the mesh will not open fully, the daffodil image will not read clearly, and the piece will not lie flat on an altar table.

Wet blocking works best for cotton thread. Soak your finished piece in cool water for at least 20 minutes, gently squeezing the water through without wringing or twisting. Lift it out and roll it in a clean towel to remove excess moisture. Then lay it face down on your blocking board.

Using rustproof T-pins, pin the outer edge of the piece to the blocking board, stretching it gently to the finished dimensions and pinning at intervals of approximately half an inch along each edge. Pay special attention to the corners, pulling them out to right angles and securing them firmly. If the piece includes scalloped or pointed edging, pin each point individually.

Allow the piece to dry completely before removing the pins. In a warm room with good airflow, drying usually takes 12 to 24 hours. Once dry and unpinned, the lace will hold its shape and the filet grid will be beautifully open and even.

Tips for Success

Work in good light. Counting stitches and reading charts in dim light leads to errors that can be difficult to catch before many rows have passed.

Count your stitches at the end of each row. In filet crochet, a single extra or missing stitch will throw off every square that follows it in that row, causing the image to shift. Developing the habit of counting eliminates the most common source of frustration.

Use stitch markers. Placing a locking stitch marker at the beginning of each row gives you a clear reference point as you count and helps you keep track of the row direction.

Read the chart before you crochet each row. Take a moment to trace the row on the chart with your finger or a highlighter before picking up your hook. This brief preview significantly reduces mid-row confusion.

Do not skip the foundation swatch. Even experienced crocheters find that gauge can shift between projects, especially when switching thread brands or moving from a warmer to a cooler climate.

Using the Daffodil Altar Lace Pattern Beyond the Altar

While this pattern takes its name and traditional purpose from church altar decoration, there is no reason to limit it to liturgical settings. The finished piece works beautifully as a sideboard runner, a dresser scarf, a display under a vase or lamp, or a framed textile art piece. Worked in a finer thread — size 20 or even size 30 — the pattern scales down elegantly into a bookmark or card insert. Worked in a heavier thread or light yarn, it becomes a more substantial table runner with cottage charm.

The daffodil motif also transfers well into other craft mediums. Some stitchers use the filet chart to guide cross-stitch work, translating the open and filled squares directly onto Aida cloth. Weaving enthusiasts have adapted filet charts as guides for tapestry and pick-up stick weaving. The durable grid structure of filet design makes it one of the most versatile charting formats in all of needlework.

Caring for Your Finished Lace

Cotton lace is hardier than it looks, but it benefits from thoughtful care. Hand washing in cool water with a gentle detergent keeps the fibers bright and prevents yellowing. If machine washing is necessary, place the piece inside a mesh laundry bag and use the gentle cycle with cold water. Lay flat to dry rather than hanging, which can distort the grid.

If the lace becomes wrinkled after washing, a light spray with water and a warm iron on the wrong side restores crispness. For heirloom pieces, store rolled rather than folded to prevent permanent crease lines.

Preserving and Gifting Altar Lace

Handmade altar lace has been passed down through families and church communities for generations. A well-cared-for piece of filet crochet can remain beautiful for well over a hundred years. If you are making this daffodil altar lace as a gift for a church, a friend, or a family member, consider including a small card noting the thread brand and weight, the hook size, and the date the piece was completed. Future generations will thank you for that record.

For long-term storage, wrap the piece in acid-free tissue paper and keep it in a cool, dry location away from direct light. Avoid plastic bags, which can trap moisture and cause yellowing.

Final Thoughts

The Daffodil Altar Lace Filet Crochet Pattern is a project that rewards patience with beauty. Each row of the chart brings the image of the daffodil more clearly into view — first the stem, then the leaves, then the unmistakable trumpet bloom — and there is genuine joy in watching a flower emerge from thread and air. The finished piece, blocked and pressed and placed on a table or altar, carries the quiet satisfaction of a thing made slowly and with care.

Whether you are completing this pattern from the paperback booklet with its printed chart and traditional instructions, or working from a digital version displayed on your screen, the process is the same: one stitch at a time, one row at a time, following the map that generations of lace makers have used before you. The daffodil has always been a symbol of what endures beyond the winter. There is something fitting about recreating it in lace — a medium that is itself a small act of faith in the permanence of beautiful things.