How to Crochet Phalaenopsis Tunisian Version | Crochet Pattern

There is something undeniably captivating about a Phalaenopsis orchid. With its wide, velvety petals and graceful arching stem, it has earned its place as one of the most beloved flowers in the world. But flowers fade, and real orchids demand a level of care that not every crafter has time to give. That is where the magic of Tunisian crochet comes in. By combining the distinctive texture of Tunisian crochet with thoughtfully constructed petal and leaf shapes, you can create a stunningly realistic crocheted Phalaenopsis orchid that will last forever and never needs watering.

This pattern is perfect for intermediate crocheters who are already comfortable with basic Tunisian crochet stitches. If you are newer to Tunisian technique, do not worry — we will walk through the key stitches you need before diving into the flower itself. By the end of this tutorial, you will have a beautiful crocheted orchid that works beautifully as home décor, a hair accessory, a brooch, a gift topper, or even a piece of wearable art.

Let us get into it.

What Is Tunisian Crochet and Why Use It for Flowers?

Tunisian crochet is a technique that sits somewhere between traditional crochet and knitting. It uses a long hook — called a Tunisian or Afghan hook — to work multiple loops across the hook at the same time, picking up stitches on a forward pass and working them off on a return pass. The result is a fabric with a beautifully dense, woven appearance that has far more body and structure than regular single crochet.

For floral crochet projects, this structure is an absolute gift. When you work petals in Tunisian simple stitch or Tunisian full stitch, the fabric holds its shape without needing starch or wire. The slight rigidity of Tunisian fabric gives petals a naturally cupped, dimensional look that mimics the way real flower petals curl and fold. For a Phalaenopsis orchid specifically — a flower known for its rounded, slightly ruffled petals — Tunisian crochet is an ideal technique.

Materials You Will Need

Before you begin, gather your supplies. The quantities listed here will make one complete Phalaenopsis orchid with five petals, two side petals (wings), and one lip petal, plus two leaves.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn in the following colors works beautifully for a classic look, though you can absolutely customize to your taste.

• White or pale lavender for the main petals (approximately 50 yards)
• A deeper purple or magenta for the lip petal (approximately 15 yards)
• Yellow for the column detail (a few yards)
• Green for the leaves and stem (approximately 30 yards)

Hook: A Tunisian crochet hook in size 5.0mm (US H/8) works well for worsted weight yarn. If you find your stitches tend to be tight, size up to 5.5mm.

Additional tools:

• A standard 4.0mm or 4.5mm crochet hook for any finishing single crochet edging
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Floral wire or pipe cleaners in green for the stem (optional but recommended)
• Floral tape in green (optional)
• Stitch markers
• Scissors

Gauge and Sizing

Gauge is not critical for this project in the same way it would be for a wearable garment, but working a swatch will help you understand how your chosen yarn behaves with the Tunisian technique. A general guide: in Tunisian simple stitch with worsted weight yarn and a 5.0mm hook, you should aim for roughly 14 stitches and 12 rows over a 4-inch square.

The finished orchid flower head will measure approximately 4 to 5 inches across when assembled. The leaves will measure roughly 6 inches long and 2 inches wide at the widest point.

Abbreviations and Stitches Used

Throughout this pattern, the following abbreviations are used:

TSS — Tunisian Simple Stitch. Insert hook under the front vertical bar of the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop. Leave all loops on the hook for the forward pass, then work them off two at a time on the return pass.

TFS — Tunisian Full Stitch. Insert hook between the next two vertical bars, yarn over, pull up a loop. This stitch creates a looser, more open fabric that works beautifully for ruffled or delicate petals.

Tss2tog — Tunisian Simple Stitch two together (a decrease). Insert hook under the front vertical bars of the next two stitches simultaneously, yarn over, pull up one loop.

TSS inc — Increase in Tunisian Simple Stitch. Work two TSS into the same vertical bar.

ch — chain

sc — single crochet

sl st — slip stitch

Return pass — After completing a forward pass, yarn over and pull through the first loop on the hook (no chain), then yarn over and pull through two loops across until one loop remains. This completes the row.

Special Technique: Starting the Tunisian Foundation Row

Unlike regular crochet, Tunisian work begins with a foundation chain. Insert your hook into the second chain from the hook, yarn over and pull up a loop. Repeat across the chain, pulling up one loop per chain. You will have a row of loops sitting on your hook. Work the return pass to complete Row 1.

The Pattern

Part One: The Main Petals (Make 3)

The Phalaenopsis orchid has three large dorsal and lateral sepals. We will make three of these as the back layer of the flower.

Foundation: Chain 7.

Row 1 (Forward): Starting in the second chain from the hook, pull up a loop in each chain across — 6 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 2 (Forward): TSS in each stitch across — 6 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 3 (Forward): TSS inc in first stitch, TSS across to last stitch, TSS inc in last stitch — 8 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 4: TSS across — 8 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 5: TSS inc in first stitch, TSS across to last stitch, TSS inc in last stitch — 10 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Rows 6–8: TSS across each row — 10 loops on hook. Work return pass after each row.

Row 9: Tss2tog at start, TSS across to last 2 stitches, Tss2tog — 8 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 10: Tss2tog at start, TSS across to last 2 stitches, Tss2tog — 6 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 11: Tss2tog at start, TSS across to last 2 stitches, Tss2tog — 4 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 12: Tss2tog, Tss2tog — 2 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Finishing: Slip stitch to close the tip. Fasten off and leave a tail for assembly. Using your smaller hook, work a single crochet edging around the entire petal for a clean, defined edge. Finish the edge with a slip stitch. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Part Two: The Wing Petals (Make 2)

The two lateral petals of a Phalaenopsis orchid are rounder and wider than the sepals. These are often called the wings.

Foundation: Chain 9.

Row 1 (Forward): Pull up a loop in each chain from the second chain from hook — 8 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 2: TSS inc in first stitch, TSS across to last stitch, TSS inc — 10 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 3: TSS inc in first stitch, TSS across to last stitch, TSS inc — 12 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Rows 4–7: TSS across — 12 loops on hook. Work return pass after each row.

Row 8: Tss2tog at start, TSS across to last 2, Tss2tog — 10 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 9: Tss2tog at start, TSS across to last 2, Tss2tog — 8 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 10: Tss2tog at start, TSS across to last 2, Tss2tog — 6 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 11: Tss2tog, TSS across to last 2, Tss2tog — 4 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 12: Tss2tog, Tss2tog — 2 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Finish as with the main petals, adding a single crochet border. For a ruffled effect that mimics the real flower, try using TFS instead of TSS for Rows 4 through 7. The looser stitch will cause a natural wave in the fabric.

Part Three: The Lip Petal (Labellum) — Make 1

The lip petal is the most distinctive part of any orchid. It is usually a different color from the other petals and has a more complex, three-lobed shape. This version simplifies the shape while capturing its essential character.

Work this petal in your contrasting color — deep purple, magenta, or a variegated yarn works beautifully here.

Foundation: Chain 5.

Row 1: Pull up a loop in each chain from second chain from hook — 4 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 2: TSS inc in first, TSS across to last, TSS inc — 6 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 3: TSS inc in first, TSS across to last, TSS inc — 8 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Rows 4–5: TSS across. Work return pass.

Row 6: Tss2tog, TSS across to last 2, Tss2tog — 6 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 7: Tss2tog, TSS across to last 2, Tss2tog — 4 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Now you will create the two side lobes of the lip. Do not fasten off.

Left lobe: Chain 4. Working back along the chain, sc in each chain. Sl st back to the main petal body. Fasten off.

Right lobe: Rejoin yarn at the corresponding point on the right side of the petal. Chain 4, sc back along the chain, sl st to attach. Fasten off.

Using your smaller hook and the contrasting or a complementary color, add a few small chain loops or French knot–style detailing at the center of the lip to represent the decorative markings that Phalaenopsis orchids are famous for.

Part Four: The Column (Make 1)

The column is the small central structure of the orchid that sits at the heart of the flower. Use yellow yarn for this.

Chain 4. Work a row of TSS (3 stitches). Work return pass. Work one more row of TSS. Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Roll the small rectangle into a tight tube and stitch it closed with your yarn needle to form a small cylindrical column. Set aside.

Part Five: The Leaves (Make 2)

The wide, fleshy leaves of the Phalaenopsis plant give the finished piece an anchored, realistic look. Work these in your green yarn.

Foundation: Chain 14.

Row 1: Pull up a loop in each chain from second chain from hook — 13 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Rows 2–3: TSS across. Work return pass.

Row 4: TSS inc in first stitch, TSS across to last, TSS inc — 15 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Rows 5–8: TSS across. Work return pass.

Row 9: Tss2tog, TSS across to last 2, Tss2tog — 13 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Rows 10–12: TSS across. Work return pass.

Row 13: Tss2tog, TSS across to last 2, Tss2tog — 11 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 14: Tss2tog, TSS across to last 2, Tss2tog — 9 loops on hook. Work return pass.

Row 15: Continue decreasing by 2 stitches per row (Tss2tog at each end) until 3 loops remain on hook. Work return pass.

Final row: Tss2tog, 1 stitch remains. Work return pass. Fasten off.

Add a single crochet edging around the leaf in the same green yarn for a clean finish. The leaf should naturally cup slightly because of the Tunisian fabric’s structure, which is exactly what you want for a realistic look.

Assembly Instructions

This is where your flower comes to life, and it is worth taking your time with this step.

Begin by laying out all your pieces: three main petals, two wing petals, one lip petal, the column, and your two leaves. Take a moment to arrange them into the shape of a real Phalaenopsis blossom so you can visualize the finished look before you start stitching.

Start with the three main petals. Place them in a fan or star arrangement, overlapping slightly at the base, and stitch them together using your yarn needle and a length of the main petal color. The stitches at the base should be tight and secure but should not distort the petals.

Next, position the two wing petals so they sit between and slightly in front of the main petals, framing the center of the flower. Stitch them in place at the base.

Now attach the lip petal at the very front and center of the flower, pointing slightly downward or forward the way a real orchid lip does. The two side lobes should curl gently outward.

Finally, place the small yellow column at the very center of the flower, right where all the petals converge. Stitch it down securely through its base.

If you are using floral wire for a stem, thread a doubled piece of green wire through the base of the assembled flower, twist it together below the base, and wrap it tightly with green floral tape, working downward along the wire to create a realistic-looking stem. Attach the leaves partway down the stem by wrapping their base with floral tape as well.

If you prefer a brooch or hair accessory instead of a standalone stem flower, simply stitch a pin back or alligator clip to the back of the assembled flower head.

Tips for a More Realistic Finish

A few small touches make a big difference in how lifelike your finished orchid looks.

Blocking the petals before assembly is one of the best things you can do. Lightly spritz each petal with water and shape it gently over a curved surface — a foam ball works perfectly — and allow it to dry fully. The Tunisian fabric will hold the shape beautifully once dry, and the petals will have a natural, gently cupped appearance.

For color realism, do not be afraid to use more than one shade within a single petal. Real Phalaenopsis petals often have subtle gradients or faint veining. You can achieve this by carrying a very thin strand of a slightly darker shade alongside your main yarn for a few rows, or by using a self-striping or ombré yarn.

Adding embroidered details to the lip petal — small straight stitches in yellow or gold thread to suggest the decorative patterns real orchids display — can take the piece from beautiful to extraordinary.

Variations to Try

Once you have made your first orchid, the creative possibilities multiply quickly. Try working the petals in a pale pink or deep burgundy for a different species look. Use a metallic thread held alongside your main yarn for a shimmering, otherworldly effect. Make a cluster of three flowers on a single arching stem to mimic the way Phalaenopsis plants actually bloom. Scale up the pattern using bulky yarn and a larger hook for a bold statement piece, or scale down with fingering weight and a 3.0mm Tunisian hook for a delicate accessory.

You can also experiment with stitch variety within the petals themselves.