Crochet Flower Amigurumi Free Pattern

There is something undeniably magical about crocheting a flower that holds its shape, sits upright, and practically smiles at you from across the room. Flower amigurumi — those wonderfully plump, three-dimensional stuffed flowers made with a crochet hook and yarn — have become one of the most beloved projects in the amigurumi world, and for very good reason. They are cheerful, they are relatively quick to complete, and they make the most thoughtful handmade gifts imaginable. Whether you are a seasoned crocheter looking for your next satisfying project or a beginner who has just learned the magic ring and is ready to level up, this free crochet flower amigurumi pattern is exactly what you need.

In this post, you will find a complete, step-by-step pattern for a fully stuffed flower amigurumi with a rounded center, petals with beautiful dimension, and a sturdy green stem with a leaf. The finished flower stands approximately 8 to 10 inches tall, though you can adjust the size simply by changing your yarn weight and hook size. Let’s gather our materials and get started.

What Is Flower Amigurumi?

Before we dive into the pattern itself, it is worth taking a moment to appreciate what makes flower amigurumi so special. Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small, stuffed yarn creatures and objects. The word itself combines the Japanese words for knitting (ami) and stuffed doll (nuigurumi). While amigurumi is most commonly associated with adorable animals and kawaii-style characters, the craft has expanded beautifully to include everything from food to household objects — and of course, flowers.

Flower amigurumi differs from a simple flat crochet flower in that it is three-dimensional, stuffed, and often features multiple layers of petals, a sculpted center, and additional details like leaves, stems, or even little faces. The result is a flower that looks almost like a plush toy version of a real bloom — soft, round, and utterly endearing.

These projects are popular for nursery décor, birthday gifts, teacher appreciation presents, Valentine’s Day arrangements, spring home decorating, and simply because they bring a smile to anyone who sees them. A bouquet of crocheted amigurumi flowers in a mason jar makes one of the most charming and long-lasting floral arrangements you could ever give someone.

Materials You Will Need

To make this crochet flower amigurumi, you will need the following supplies. Most of these are things you likely already have in your craft stash.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (Category 4) in the following colors — yellow or golden yellow for the flower center, your choice of petal color (pink, purple, red, orange, white, or any color you love), and green for the stem and leaf. You will need approximately 50 grams of your petal color, 20 grams of yellow, and 30 grams of green.

Hook: A 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook works well with worsted weight yarn for amigurumi. Using a hook slightly smaller than what the yarn label recommends helps create a tighter stitch that holds stuffing in without gaps.

Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill stuffing, enough to firmly fill the flower center and petals.

Eyes (optional): If you want to give your flower a face, two 9mm or 12mm safety eyes work beautifully in the center.

Yarn needle: For weaving in ends and sewing parts together.

Stitch markers: Helpful for marking the beginning of rounds.

Scissors: For cutting yarn.

Wire (optional): If you want a poseable stem, a piece of floral wire or pipe cleaner inserted into the stem before closing adds lovely structure. This is especially useful if you are making a bouquet.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology. Here is a quick reference for all abbreviations used throughout.

MR — Magic ring (also called a magic circle)
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
hdc — Half double crochet
dc — Double crochet
inc — Increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — Decrease (invisible decrease: insert hook in front loop of first stitch, then front loop of second stitch, yarn over and pull through both loops, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops)
BLO — Back loop only
FLO — Front loop only
st(s) — Stitch(es)
rnd — Round
rep — Repeat
( ) — Work all instructions within parentheses into the same stitch
[ ] x — Repeat the instructions inside brackets the number of times indicated

Gauge

Gauge is not critical for this project, but as a reference, working with worsted weight yarn and a 3.5mm hook, 6 sc x 7 rows = 2 inches. What matters most in amigurumi is that your stitches are tight enough that no stuffing peeks through.

Pattern Notes

Always work in continuous rounds (a spiral) unless otherwise specified. Do not join at the end of each round unless the pattern specifically tells you to. Use a stitch marker to track the beginning of each round by placing it in the first stitch and moving it up as you go.

Stuff the pieces firmly as you work. For the flower center especially, a very firm stuffing makes the piece look round and full rather than flat and floppy.

When the pattern says to leave a long tail for sewing, cut the yarn leaving about 12 to 15 inches, thread it onto your yarn needle, and use it to sew pieces together before weaving in the end.

Part One: The Flower Center

The flower center is the heart of your amigurumi flower. It should be a round, plump ball — think of a sunflower’s center or the fat middle of a daisy.

With yellow yarn:

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc in ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] x 6. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] x 6. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: [Sc 3, inc] x 6. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc 4, inc] x 6. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in each st around. (36 sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in each st around. (36 sts)
Rnd 9: Sc in each st around. (36 sts)
Rnd 10: [Sc 4, dec] x 6. (30 sts)
Rnd 11: [Sc 3, dec] x 6. (24 sts)

At this point, insert your safety eyes between rounds 6 and 7, approximately 6 to 8 stitches apart, if you want to give your flower a face. Begin stuffing the center firmly.

Rnd 12: [Sc 2, dec] x 6. (18 sts)
Rnd 13: [Sc 1, dec] x 6. (12 sts)

Continue stuffing until the center is very full and firm.

Rnd 14: [Dec] x 6. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use your yarn needle to close the opening by weaving through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pulling tight. Do not cut the tail — you will use it later to attach the petals if desired, but for now set the center aside.

Part Two: The Petals

These petals are worked in a daisy style, and you will make 8 of them. Each petal is worked flat and then folded slightly when sewn, which gives them a lovely natural curl.

With your petal color yarn, make 8 petals:

Ch 12.

Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 3, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st 1. (8 sts worked, leaving 3 ch unworked at the end — this creates the pointed tip shape)

Wait — let us try the rounder, more classic amigurumi petal shape instead. This version creates a fat, oval petal that pairs beautifully with the round center.

Revised petal (make 8):

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc in ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc 1, inc] x 6. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc 2, inc] x 6. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in each st around. (24 sts)
Rnd 6: [Sc 2, dec] x 6. (18 sts)
Rnd 7: [Sc 1, dec] x 6. (12 sts)

Add a small pinch of stuffing — just enough to give the petal a little puff. Do not overstuff; petals should be soft and slightly flat, not round like the center.

Rnd 8: [Dec] x 6. (6 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Use your needle to close the 6 remaining stitches as you did with the center.

Repeat until you have 8 petals total. You can make all petals the same color or alternate two complementary colors for a more whimsical look.

Part Three: The Stem

The stem is worked in a long tube, which is the classic amigurumi cylinder shape.

With green yarn:

Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc in ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 4–30: Sc in each st around. (12 sts per round)

If you want a longer stem, simply continue working even rounds until you reach your desired length. For a shorter flower suitable for a small arrangement, you can stop at round 20.

If you are inserting floral wire for structure, do so now before closing. Fold the tip of the wire to avoid it poking through.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Part Four: The Leaf

Every good flower needs at least one leaf, and this one is simple but wonderfully shaped.

With green yarn:

Ch 15.

Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 2, dc 4, hdc 2, sc 2, sl st 1. Turn. (12 sts)

Now work back along the other side of the foundation chain:

Row 2: Sl st 1, sc 2, hdc 2, dc 4, hdc 2, sc 1. (12 sts)

Sl st to join at the base of the leaf. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

For an even nicer leaf, you can work a second identical leaf and hold them wrong sides together, slip stitching around the edges to join them. This creates a sturdier, more dimensional leaf that stands up beautifully.

Assembly

Now comes the truly satisfying part: putting your flower together.

Start by arranging your 8 petals around the flower center. Space them evenly, working from the back side of the center. The closed-off bottom of each petal should sit flush against the lower half of the center. Pin them in place or hold them steady as you sew, using the long tails left on each petal.

Thread a petal tail onto your yarn needle and stitch through the center, pulling the petal snugly against it and knotting securely. Weave the tail inside the center so it disappears. Repeat for all 8 petals, checking the spacing as you go. You want the petals to fan out evenly like a real flower when viewed from the front.

Once all petals are attached, sew the flat open end of the stem to the bottom of the flower center. Make sure your stitches go all the way through both pieces and pull tightly so the stem does not wobble. Knot securely and weave in the end.

Finally, position your leaf about a third of the way up the stem on one side and sew it securely in place using a few stitches at the base of the leaf. Weave in all remaining ends.

Finishing Touches and Customization Ideas

One of the greatest joys of making amigurumi is how much room there is for personalization. Here are some wonderful ways to make this flower your own.

Faces: Adding safety eyes and embroidering a simple smile with black yarn transforms your flower into a character full of personality. You can use embroidery floss to add rosy cheeks or little eyebrows for extra expression.

Color combinations: A rainbow bouquet of these flowers — one in each color of the spectrum — makes the most stunning centerpiece. Try deep burgundy with a gold center, soft lavender with a pale yellow center, or coral with a cream center for a vintage feel.

Size variations: Use fingering weight yarn and a 2mm hook to create tiny miniature flowers, or switch to bulky yarn and a 6mm hook to make a dramatic oversized bloom. The pattern scales beautifully in any direction.

Petal count: If you want a flower that looks more like a sunflower or black-eyed Susan, try making 12 or even 16 petals. For a simpler tulip-inspired look, use only 5 or 6 slightly larger petals.

No-face version: Not every flower needs a face. A plain flower center in a rich golden yarn with textured surface stitches (like surface slip stitches or French knots added with a needle) looks incredibly realistic and elegant.

Bouquet display: Group three to five completed flowers in a small vase or jar. Add some crocheted green leaves around the stems and you have a stunning, zero-maintenance floral arrangement that will last forever.

Tips for Amigurumi Beginners

If this is one of your first amigurumi projects, here are a few tips that will save you time and frustration.

The magic ring can feel tricky at first. If you struggle with it, you can substitute by chaining 2 and working your first round of single crochets into the second chain from the hook. It is not quite as neat but it absolutely works.

Invisible decreases (described in the abbreviations above) make a much smoother finish than standard decreases in amigurumi. The standard decrease leaves a visible bump on the right side, while the invisible decrease hides neatly in your fabric.

Stuff as you go rather than waiting until the very end. Trying to stuff a nearly closed piece is awkward and results in uneven filling. Add stuffing gradually throughout the decreasing rounds.

Weaving in your ends through the stuffing interior of the piece (rather than just through the yarn loops) is the most secure way to finish. Thread your needle through several inches of stuffing before trimming close.

Finally, do not rush. Amigurumi is a wonderfully meditative craft, and each piece is more satisfying when worked at an easy pace. Put on a podcast, settle into your favorite chair, and enjoy the rhythm of each round.

Sharing Your Finished Flower

If you make this pattern, please share your finished flower! Seeing how different yarns, colors, and personal touches bring the same pattern to life in completely unique ways is one of the most wonderful aspects of the crochet community. Tag your photos and leave a comment below telling us what color combination you chose and who you made it for.

Whether your flower ends up on a child’s bookshelf, in a bride’s bouquet, on a hospital nightstand, or simply brightening your own kitchen table, it carries something precious with it: the time, the care, and the creativity of your own two hands. That is what makes a handmade gift unlike anything you could ever buy in a store.

Happy crocheting, and may every stitch bring you a little joy.