7 Daffodil Flower Knitting Patterns (Page 2 of 2)

Welcome back to our collection of daffodil knitting patterns! If you’ve been with us from the beginning, you’ve already explored some wonderful ways to bring the cheerful beauty of daffodils to life through yarn and needles. If this is your first stop, don’t worry — each pattern stands on its own, and you’ll find plenty of inspiration right here on page two. Daffodils are among the most beloved flowers of early spring, and their distinctive trumpet-shaped blooms make them endlessly appealing as knitting subjects. Whether you’re crafting a bouquet to display at home, adding floral accents to a garment, or making handmade gifts for someone special, these remaining four patterns will give you everything you need to keep the creativity flowing.

Let’s dive back in.

Pattern 4: The Miniature Daffodil Brooch

Small but mighty, this miniature daffodil brooch is one of the most satisfying projects in the collection. It works up quickly, uses minimal yarn, and produces a result that looks genuinely impressive pinned to a coat lapel, a knitted hat, a scarf, or even a tote bag. The finished brooch measures about two inches across, making it a neat and wearable size that doesn’t overwhelm whatever you attach it to.

Yarn and Materials

For this project, you’ll want a fingering weight or sport weight yarn in classic daffodil yellow for the petals and a deeper golden orange for the trumpet corona. A small amount of each color is all you need — even leftover yarn from other projects works beautifully here. You’ll also need a pair of US size 1 or US size 2 double-pointed needles (or a short circular needle if you prefer), a tapestry needle for finishing, polyfill stuffing or a small piece of cotton wool for shaping the trumpet, and a brooch pin or safety pin to attach to the back.

Technique Notes

This pattern uses a combination of flat and in-the-round knitting. The petals are worked flat in a fan shape, then sewn together. The trumpet is worked in the round using a short I-cord base, then shaped with increases and decreases to create its characteristic flared opening. If you’ve never worked I-cord before, this project is an ideal introduction — it’s a small commitment with a fast payoff.

The Petals

Cast on 3 stitches in your yellow yarn. Work a series of short rows, increasing at each edge every right-side row until you have 9 stitches, then work even for a few rows before decreasing back down to 3 stitches and binding off. This creates one elongated oval petal. Repeat this process six times in total to create all six petals of the daffodil. When all six petals are complete, arrange them in a circle with their narrow cast-on ends meeting in the center, and sew them together securely. Use your tapestry needle to weave through the center several times to pull everything tight and flat.

The Trumpet Corona

Using your golden orange yarn and double-pointed needles, cast on 4 stitches and work I-cord for about half an inch to create the base. Then distribute your stitches across three needles and begin working in the round, increasing every other round until you have 16 stitches. Work even for a few rounds, then bind off loosely to create the flared opening of the trumpet. Stuff lightly with polyfill to give it body, then sew the base of the trumpet to the center of your petal circle. Finish by sewing the brooch pin to the back, making sure it’s positioned across the widest part of the flower for good balance when worn.

Finishing Touches

A light steam block will open up the petals beautifully and give the whole brooch a more polished, professional look. You can also add a cluster of French knots in deep yellow or burnt orange thread at the center of the trumpet for a realistic stamens effect if you enjoy a little embroidery alongside your knitting.

Pattern 5: The Daffodil Garland

If one daffodil is delightful, imagine a whole string of them draped across a mantelpiece, wound around a wreath form, or hung above a nursery window. This daffodil garland pattern creates a series of small blooms connected by a simple twisted cord, and the effect is genuinely enchanting. It’s also a wonderful project to work on in stages — knit a few flowers at a time whenever you have a spare half hour, then assemble the garland when you have a larger block of time.

Yarn and Materials

The garland looks best worked in DK weight yarn, which gives each flower enough substance to hold its shape without becoming bulky. You’ll want your primary daffodil yellow for the petals, golden orange for the trumpet, and a soft green for the twisted cord that connects the flowers. A pair of US size 4 needles, a tapestry needle, and a small amount of polyfill for each trumpet are all you need beyond the yarn itself. For a garland of approximately five feet, plan to knit around twelve to fifteen individual daffodil heads.

Working the Individual Flowers

Each flower in the garland is worked essentially the same way as the brooch above, but scaled up slightly to suit the DK weight yarn. Cast on 4 stitches for each petal, increase to 12, work even for a couple of rows, then decrease back and bind off. You’ll still want six petals per flower, arranged in a circle and joined at the center. The trumpet for the garland flowers is worked in the round from a cast-on of 6 stitches, increased to 20 over several rounds, then bound off loosely. The slightly larger scale makes each individual step move faster than you might expect.

Making the Cord

The connecting cord is made by cutting lengths of green yarn approximately twice the desired finished length of your garland, twisting them tightly together in one direction, then folding them in half and allowing them to twist back on themselves to create a sturdy, rope-like cord. Secure both ends with knots and trim neatly. Alternatively, if you prefer a more structured look, you can knit a simple 2-stitch I-cord in green for the full length of the garland. Either approach works well and the choice comes down entirely to your preference.

Assembly

Lay your cord out flat and arrange your finished flowers along it at regular intervals, spacing them approximately four inches apart. Use your tapestry needle and a length of yellow yarn to sew each flower securely to the cord, stitching through the center of the petal circle and around the cord several times before fastening off. Once all your flowers are attached, add a few simple knitted leaves if you like — a basic elongated oval shape in green, knitted flat and left unblocked so they curl slightly — tucked in between some of the flowers for a more naturalistic effect.

Pattern 6: Daffodil Embellishments for a Knitted Hat or Cowl

Sometimes the most rewarding knitting projects aren’t standalone items but the little extras that transform something functional into something truly special. This pattern gives you a set of daffodil embellishments designed specifically to be added to a knitted hat or cowl, either as you knit the main item or as an afterthought added to something already finished.

Yarn and Materials

Because these embellishments will be attached to a garment, yarn weight choice is important. You want the flowers to lie flat against the fabric without pulling or distorting it. For a hat or cowl knitted in worsted weight yarn, use DK or sport weight for your flowers. For a hat or cowl in DK yarn, use fingering or sport weight. This keeps the embellishments proportionate and avoids any puckering around the attachment points. You’ll need yellow, golden orange, and a small amount of green for stems if you choose to include them. Needles in the appropriate size for your chosen yarn weight, plus a tapestry needle, are all you’ll need beyond the yarn.

Flat Daffodil Variation

The flat version of this embellishment is ideal for the body of a cowl or the brim of a hat. Work five petals rather than six for a slightly more stylized look that photographs especially well. Cast on 3 stitches, increase to 9, work two rows even, then decrease back to 3 and bind off. Join the five petals in a circle and attach a small, lightly stuffed trumpet at the center as with the other patterns in this collection. The flat construction means the flower sits snugly against the fabric of your garment without any risk of flopping forward or catching on things.

Three-Dimensional Cluster Variation

For a more dramatic effect, consider knitting a cluster of three daffodils in slightly different sizes and arranging them in a tight group at one side of the hat or at the front of the cowl. To vary the sizes, simply use different needle sizes with the same yarn — a larger needle gives a bigger, more open petal while a smaller needle produces a tighter, more refined bloom. Group one larger flower with two smaller ones, position them so they face slightly different directions for a natural bouquet effect, and sew them down at multiple points to keep the cluster stable during wear.

Adding Stems and Leaves

A short stem adds enormously to the realism of a daffodil embellishment, particularly on a cowl where there’s enough fabric to show it off. Work a simple 2-stitch I-cord in green for about one to two inches, then attach it between the petal back and the surface of your garment, curving it slightly for a natural look. A simple elongated leaf shape on either side of the stem completes the illusion beautifully. These small details take only a few extra minutes but elevate the whole piece significantly.

Pattern 7: The Full Knitted Daffodil with Stem and Leaves

We’ve saved the most complete and rewarding pattern for last. This full daffodil — petals, trumpet, stem, and leaves all worked separately and assembled — is the closest you can get to a realistic knitted flower without crossing over into botanical sculpture. The finished daffodil stands on its own in a vase, can be wired for a more dramatic arrangement, or can be displayed as a single stem in a simple bud vase on a windowsill or desk. It makes an extraordinary gift, particularly for someone who loves flowers but lives somewhere they can’t always have fresh ones.

Yarn and Materials

For this project, worsted weight yarn gives the best results — sturdy enough to hold its shape but smooth enough to show the petal definition clearly. You’ll need yellow for the petals, golden orange or deep coral for the trumpet, and two shades of green if possible (a lighter green for the stem and a slightly darker, more muted green for the leaves). US size 6 needles work well, along with double-pointed needles in the same size for the stem. You’ll also want floral wire (available inexpensively from any craft store), polyfill for the trumpet, and a tapestry needle for assembly.

The Petals

These petals are worked flat in a fan shape slightly larger than those in the brooch pattern, with a more pronounced central vein created by working a line of yarn overs and decreases up the middle of each petal. Cast on 5 stitches, increase to 15 over several right-side rows, work even for four rows (incorporating a central vein detail if desired), then decrease back to 5 and bind off. Work six petals and arrange them in two layers of three, offsetting the second layer so the petals of each layer fill in the spaces of the other. This double-layer construction gives the flower real depth and presence.

The Trumpet Corona

The trumpet for this full daffodil is worked more elaborately than in the previous patterns. Cast on 8 stitches and join to work in the round. Increase steadily over several rounds to 24 stitches, work even for six rounds, then bind off very loosely to create a wide, frilled opening. For an even more realistic frill, try working a picot bind-off: bind off two stitches, then cast on two and bind off again, continuing in this alternating pattern all the way around the opening. This creates a delicate, slightly ruffled edge that beautifully mirrors the texture of a real daffodil’s corona. Stuff the trumpet firmly so it holds its tubular shape, then sew the base closed around a short length of floral wire.

The Stem

Using your lighter green yarn and double-pointed needles, cast on 4 stitches and work I-cord for approximately 10 to 12 inches, depending on how tall you’d like the finished stem to be. Before completing the stem, insert a length of floral wire through the center of the I-cord — this is the secret to making the stem hold any position you choose, whether you want it perfectly upright or gently curved. Fasten off and weave in the end, pinching the tip of the I-cord closed around the wire.

The Leaves

Work two leaves for each daffodil. Each leaf is knitted flat on a long, narrow stitch count — cast on 5 stitches and work in stockinette until the leaf is about 6 to 8 inches long, then decrease at each edge over several rows to create the pointed tip and bind off. Fold each leaf lengthwise along the center and sew a running stitch up the fold to create a central ridge that gives the leaf its characteristic slight curvature. You can insert a short length of floral wire along this ridge as well if you want the leaves to hold their shape especially well.

Assembly

Assembly is the most satisfying part of this pattern. Begin by attaching the trumpet to the center of your double-layer petal arrangement, sewing it firmly in place through the base. Then attach the floral wire from the trumpet to the top of the stem wire by twisting them together and wrapping the join tightly with a length of green yarn. Sew the petal assembly down over this join so the base of the petals meets the top of the stem cleanly. Finally, position your two leaves along the lower portion of the stem and sew them in place, wrapping their base stitches around the stem for added security.

When the flower is complete, bend the wire stem to give it a natural, slightly arching pose. Place it in a narrow vase, position it in an arrangement with other knitted flowers, or simply display it on its own as a small, handmade piece of perennial spring.

Tips for Knitting Daffodils Successfully

Now that you’ve seen all seven patterns across both pages, a few general tips will help you get the best results from any of them.

Blocking makes a profound difference with knitted flowers. Even a light steam block — holding the iron an inch or two above the surface rather than pressing down — opens up petals, evens out any uneven tension, and gives the finished flower a much more polished appearance. Don’t skip this step, especially for any flower that will be displayed rather than worn.

Yarn choice matters more than needle size for flowers. A smooth, tightly twisted yarn will show stitch definition beautifully and give petals a clean, crisp look. A more loosely spun or textured yarn produces a softer, more impressionistic flower that has its own charm but won’t show detail as clearly. Neither is better — it depends entirely on the aesthetic you’re going for.

Don’t be afraid to mix yarn weights within the same flower. Using a slightly heavier yarn for the petals than for the trumpet, or vice versa, can actually enhance the realism of the finished bloom by giving different parts of the flower different visual weights, just as they have in nature.

Finally, consider the color palette beyond the obvious yellow and orange. Daffodils in real life come in white, cream, pale lemon, deep gold, peach, and even pale pink. A white daffodil with a pale coral trumpet is a sophisticated, unexpected variation that would be stunning as a brooch or garland. Don’t feel limited by convention — the best handmade flowers are often the ones that take a small, creative liberty with nature.

A Final Word on Knitting Flowers

Knitting daffodils — or any flower, for that matter — is a wonderful way to practice techniques that pay dividends across all kinds of knitting projects. The short rows, the in-the-round construction, the I-cord, the careful assembly — all of these skills transfer directly to garments, accessories, and home décor items. Every daffodil you finish makes you a slightly more confident, slightly more capable knitter.

But beyond the technical benefits, there’s something genuinely lovely about the act of making a flower by hand. It’s slow in the best sense — a deliberate, attentive creation of something beautiful from nothing more than fiber and time. Whether you gift these daffodils, display them, or wear them, they carry something of the season in them: the particular hope and brightness of early spring, captured in yarn and kept year-round.

We hope you’ve enjoyed this two-part collection of daffodil knitting patterns. Happy knitting — and may your needles always find their way to something worth making.