
Crochet Peruvian Daffodil: A Free PDF Pattern for a Stunning Floral Project
There is something quietly magical about crocheting a flower. Unlike garments or home décor that demand precision in every row, flowers invite a kind of creative freedom — a looseness of spirit that makes even the most intricate petal forgivable. The Peruvian Daffodil is one of those flowers that seems almost designed to be translated into yarn. Its dramatic trumpet center, its swept-back petals, and its graceful, arching stem make it a natural candidate for a crochet project that feels both artistic and achievable.
Whether you are a seasoned crocheter looking for a fresh botanical challenge or an intermediate crafter ready to level up your floral work, this Crochet Peruvian Daffodil PDF pattern is here to guide you through every stitch. The finished piece works beautifully as a standalone decorative flower, a brooch, a hair accessory, a gift topper, or as part of a larger floral arrangement made entirely of yarn. Read on for the full pattern, helpful technique tips, suggested yarn choices, and ideas for displaying your finished Peruvian Daffodil.
What Is a Peruvian Daffodil?
Before diving into the stitches, it helps to understand the real flower that inspired this pattern. The Peruvian Daffodil, known botanically as Hymenocallis narcissiflora, is a delicate and exotic bloom native to the Andes mountains of South America. Despite the name, it is not a true daffodil but belongs to the Amaryllis family. Its petals are long, narrow, and swept backward like the wings of a bird mid-flight, and at its center sits a delicate, fringed cup that gives it an otherworldly quality.
It is this dramatic contrast between the airy, reaching petals and the intricate central cup that makes the Peruvian Daffodil such an inspiring subject for crochet. The pattern captures both elements — the elongated, lacy outer petals and the textured, ruffled trumpet — in a design that is layered, dimensional, and genuinely beautiful.
Materials You Will Need
To complete this Crochet Peruvian Daffodil, gather the following before you begin:
Yarn: DK weight (size 3) or light worsted weight (size 4) yarn in white or cream for the petals and trumpet. A small amount of soft yellow or pale green for optional color detailing at the center works beautifully and reflects the natural flower’s coloring. Cotton yarn gives a crisp, structured finish ideal for decorative flowers, while acrylic blends offer softness and a wider color range. For an heirloom-quality piece, a cotton-silk blend is worth the investment.
Hook: A 3.5mm (size E/4) or 4.0mm (size G/6) crochet hook depending on your tension and yarn weight. Swatch before beginning to ensure your petals have good drape and definition.
Other supplies: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, a pair of sharp scissors, floral wire (18- or 20-gauge) if you want a poseable stem, green floral tape, a small amount of fiberfill or a wooden bead for the center if desired, stitch markers, and blocking pins with a foam mat for finishing.
Finished size: Approximately 5 to 6 inches across (petals tip to tip) and 3 to 4 inches tall with the trumpet. Dimensions will vary based on yarn weight and hook size.
Skill level: Intermediate. This pattern uses basic stitches in combination, including chains, slip stitches, single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, treble crochet, and joined rounds. Familiarity with working into chain spaces and working in the round is helpful.
Gauge: Exact gauge is not critical for a decorative flower, but aim for a fabric that holds its shape and is not too loose or too stiff.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble crochet
dtr — double treble crochet
MR — magic ring (also called magic loop or adjustable ring)
sp — space
rep — repeat
st(s) — stitch(es)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
( ) — work all stitches inside parentheses in the same stitch or space
[ ] — repeat the section in brackets the number of times indicated
Pattern: Crochet Peruvian Daffodil
The flower is worked in three parts: the six outer petals, the inner trumpet (the fringed corona), and the stem. Each piece is made separately and then assembled.
Part One: Outer Petals
The outer petals of the Peruvian Daffodil are one of its most distinctive features — long, strap-like, and slightly cupped. They radiate outward from the center in a ring of six, giving the flower its elegant, star-like silhouette.
Begin with a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 11 dc into the MR, join with sl st to top of ch-3. Pull ring closed. You now have 12 dc total. (12 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 2, [sc in next st, ch 2] around, join with sl st to first sc. (12 sc, 12 ch-2 sps)
Round 3: Sl st into first ch-2 sp, ch 4 (counts as tr), work 2 tr in same sp, ch 3, 3 tr in next ch-2 sp — this creates your first petal base. Continue working [3 tr, ch 3, 3 tr] in each ch-2 sp across until you have worked 6 petal bases total, then join with sl st to top of ch-4. You will be using every other ch-2 sp for each petal base. (6 petal bases)
Now work each petal individually.
Individual Petal (make 6, worked over each petal base):
Sl st across to the ch-3 sp at the center of your first petal base.
Row 1 (RS): Ch 5 (counts as dtr), 2 dtr in same ch-3 sp, ch 2, turn.
Row 2: Skip first dtr, dc in each of next 2 dtr, dc in top of ch-5, ch 3, turn.
Row 3: Skip first dc, dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in top of ch-3, ch 3, turn.
Row 4: 2 dc in first dc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 4, turn.
Row 5: Skip first dc, tr in next dc, tr in next 2 dc, 2 tr in last dc, ch 4, turn.
Row 6: Skip first tr, tr in next tr, dc in next tr, hdc in last tr, sc in top of ch-4, ch 1, turn.
Row 7: Sc evenly down the left edge of the petal, working approximately 1 sc for every row end, until you reach the base of the petal. Sl st into the petal base to anchor. Fasten off, leave a tail for joining.
Repeat for all 6 petals, rejoining yarn in each petal base ch-3 sp as needed. When all petals are complete, weave in ends on the back.
Petal edging (optional but recommended for polish):
Rejoin yarn at the tip of any petal. Working along the outer edge, work a row of sc along one side, 3 sc in the petal tip, and sc along the other side. This gives the petals a clean, defined edge and helps them hold their shape. Repeat for all 6 petals.
Block the petals by lightly misting with water and pinning to a foam mat, shaping each petal into a gentle upward curve. Allow to dry completely before assembly.
Part Two: The Trumpet (Corona)
The trumpet is the heart of the Peruvian Daffodil — a delicate, ruffled cup that rises from the center of the outer petals. In the real flower, the corona is intricately fringed; in this pattern, it is worked in a series of increasing rounds with a ruffled edge, giving it that characteristic fullness.
Work with a second strand of yarn in white or a soft pale yellow if you want color contrast at the center.
Round 1: MR, ch 3 (counts as dc), work 5 dc in ring, join with sl st. Pull ring closed. (6 dc)
Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, join with sl st. (12 dc)
Round 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st, [2 dc in next st, dc in next st] around, join. (18 dc)
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in same st, [ch 3, sc in next st] around, ending with ch 3, join with sl st to first sc. (18 ch-3 loops)
Round 5 (ruffle): In each ch-3 loop, work [sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc]. Join with sl st. This creates the ruffled outer edge of the trumpet. (18 petal-like bumps)
Round 6: Turn the trumpet to the WS (so the ruffle faces downward). Working into the back of the Round 4 sc stitches (behind the ruffle), rejoin yarn and work [ch 4, sl st in next sc] around to create a second ring of loops. (18 ch-4 loops)
Round 7: In each ch-4 loop, work [sc, hdc, 2 dc, tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc]. This creates a taller second ruffle behind the first, giving the trumpet its dimensional, layered look. Join and fasten off.
Lightly stuff the base of the trumpet with a small amount of fiberfill or place a small wooden bead inside before closing, if desired, to give the center body and help it stand up inside the outer petals.
Part Three: The Stem and Leaves
Stem:
For a poseable stem, cut a length of 18-gauge floral wire to your desired stem length (typically 8 to 12 inches). Bend a small hook at the top. Using green yarn, work a slip stitch foundation along the wire, or simply wrap the wire tightly with green yarn and secure with a small amount of craft glue at both ends. Cover with green floral tape for a neat finish.
Alternatively, crochet a tubular stem using a 3.0mm hook and fingering weight green yarn: work 6 sc in a MR and continue in continuous spiral rounds without joining, increasing as needed for length and tapering gently at the base.
Leaves (make 2):
Foundation: Ch 16.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 4 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in next 4 ch, 3 sc in last ch (tip of leaf). Now working back along the other side of the foundation chain: sc in next 4 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 4 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in last 2 ch, sl st to first sc to join. Fasten off with a tail.
Work a second leaf in the same way. If desired, work a surface slip stitch up the center of each leaf from base to tip to create a visible midrib.
Assembly
Lay the outer petal piece flat with the RS facing up. Position the trumpet at the very center and stitch it in place using your yarn needle and a length of matching yarn. Take care to sew through both the base of the trumpet and the center rounds of the outer petals, anchoring securely. The trumpet should stand upright at the center of the petals.
If using a wire stem, thread the top hook through the center of the assembled flower from back to front (or front to back, depending on your preference for how the stem connects). Bend the wire hook flat against the back of the flower and stitch it in place with a few loops of yarn to prevent movement.
Position the leaves along the lower portion of the stem and attach them either by stitching through the yarn-wrapped wire or by wrapping the leaf base around the stem with a few loops of green yarn before securing with floral tape over the top.
Finishing and Blocking
Blocking is the step that transforms a crochet flower from charming to genuinely striking. For cotton yarn, wet blocking works best: soak the assembled flower in cool water for 15 to 20 minutes, press out excess water gently in a towel (do not wring), then pin each petal into its final position on a foam mat. Shape the petals into gentle upward curves, adjust the ruffle of the trumpet, and let everything dry completely — ideally overnight.
For acrylic yarn, steam blocking is effective. Hover a steam iron a few inches above the flower without touching it, using the steam to relax the fibers, then shape with your fingers while the yarn is warm and pliable. Allow to cool and set before moving.
Creative Ideas for Your Finished Peruvian Daffodil
Once you have mastered the basic pattern, the possibilities expand considerably. A single Peruvian Daffodil mounted on a pin back makes a beautiful brooch — elegant enough for a coat lapel and eye-catching enough to draw compliments. A cluster of three or five flowers in graduated sizes, gathered with a satin ribbon, becomes a striking centerpiece for a spring table or a one-of-a-kind gift for someone who appreciates handmade things.
For a wearable hair accessory, skip the wire stem and stitch the flower directly onto a hair comb or a wide elastic headband. The white-and-yellow version is particularly lovely as a bridal hair accessory, offering the romance of fresh flowers without the wilting.
For a full floral arrangement, combine your Peruvian Daffodils with other crocheted blooms — roses, anemones, or filler flowers like crocheted baby’s breath — in a tall vase. A mixed yarn bouquet displayed in an entryway or on a mantle brings the feeling of a fresh arrangement into a space without the maintenance.
You can also adapt the color palette entirely. Soft blush petals with a deeper rose trumpet create something reminiscent of a vintage cameo. Rich ivory with gold-tipped edges feels luxurious. Deep plum petals with a lavender corona make a dramatic statement piece. The structure of the flower itself is so strong that almost any color combination reads as intentional and beautiful.
Tips for Success
Working the outer petals requires patience with the individual rows, especially if this is your first experience with row-by-row petal construction. Take it one petal at a time and do not rush the edge shaping. If your petals curl too strongly, try going up half a hook size or relaxing your tension.
The trumpet can feel fiddly at first, particularly when working the second ruffle into the back of the Round 4 stitches. Use a stitch marker to help identify the correct insertion points, and work slowly. The dimensional effect is worth every moment of careful attention.
When assembling, dry-fit all pieces before committing with your needle and yarn. Lay the trumpet in different positions at the center of the petals, check the angle of the stem, and confirm that the leaves sit at a natural angle before stitching anything permanently.
Finally, if you share your finished Peruvian Daffodil on social media or in a crochet community, please tag your work so other crafters can find the inspiration they need to try the pattern themselves. The crochet community thrives on shared creativity, and a well-photographed handmade flower has a way of inspiring dozens of other makers to pick up their hooks.
Save and Share This Free PDF Pattern
This Crochet Peruvian Daffodil pattern is available as a free PDF download. Save it to your devices for easy reference while you work, print it for your physical pattern binder, or share the link with a fellow crocheter who would love a new floral project. All that is asked in return is a kind word, a tag, or a photo of your finished bloom — because nothing is more encouraging to a pattern designer than seeing the flower come to life in someone else’s hands.
Happy crocheting, and may your Peruvian Daffodil turn out every bit as beautiful as the flower that inspired it.