How to Crochet a Mini Daisy Pot | Easy Crochet Daisy Tutorial | The Chill Crochet | Part 1

If you’ve been looking for a beginner-friendly crochet project that looks absolutely stunning when it’s finished, you’ve just found it. Today we’re diving into one of the most charming little projects in the world of crochet — a mini daisy pot. This tutorial is Part 1 of the Mini Daisy Pot series here at The Chill Crochet, and by the end of it, you’re going to feel confident, creative, and maybe a little addicted to making these sweet little flowers.

Whether you’re brand new to crochet or you’ve been at it for a while and just want a relaxing, satisfying project, this one is for you. The mini daisy pot makes a gorgeous home decoration, a thoughtful handmade gift, or just a little burst of brightness sitting on your windowsill. Let’s slow down, take it stitch by stitch, and enjoy the process together.

What Is a Mini Daisy Pot?

Before we get into the how-to, let’s talk about what we’re actually making. A mini daisy pot is a crocheted flower — designed to look like a classic white-petaled daisy with a cheerful yellow center — nestled inside a small crocheted pot or holder. The combination creates a realistic-looking plant that never needs watering, never wilts, and always looks beautiful.

The whole project is worked in two parts. Part 1 (which you’re reading right now) covers the daisy flower itself — the center and the petals. Part 2 will walk you through crocheting the little pot and assembling everything together. By the end of both parts, you’ll have an adorable, finished mini daisy pot that looks like it belongs in a boutique shop.

Materials You’ll Need

One of the best things about this project is how accessible it is. You don’t need a lot of supplies, and most of them are things you might already have in your crochet stash.

Yarn: You’ll need three colors for the daisy itself. A bright, warm yellow for the flower center, white (or a soft cream) for the petals, and green for the stem and any leaves you want to add. A light worsted weight or DK weight yarn works beautifully for this project and gives you a nice, defined stitch definition that really makes the petals pop.

Hook: A 3.5mm or 4mm crochet hook works well here, depending on the yarn you’re using and your personal tension. If you tend to crochet tightly, go up half a size. If you’re a looser crocheter, stick with the smaller hook. The goal is a fairly firm fabric so your daisy holds its shape.

Other supplies: You’ll want a yarn needle for weaving in ends and joining pieces, a pair of scissors, and some polyfill stuffing or a small amount of fiber fill if you want to give your flower center a little dimension and puffiness. Stitch markers are helpful too, especially if you’re new to crocheting in the round.

Abbreviations and Stitches Used

This tutorial uses standard US crochet terminology. Here’s a quick reference for all the stitches you’ll encounter in Part 1.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
MR — magic ring (also called a magic circle)
st — stitch
rnd — round
FO — fasten off

If you’re not familiar with any of these stitches yet, don’t worry. Each one is explained in context as we go, and single crochet and magic rings are the two most important skills for this project. There are plenty of video resources available if you need a visual demonstration of any of these techniques.

A Note on Tension and Gauge

For this project, exact gauge isn’t critical the way it might be for, say, a garment or a fitted item. What matters most is that your fabric is firm enough to hold its shape. If your stitches are too loose, the petals will be floppy and the center won’t keep its round shape. If they’re too tight, you might find the project a little hard on your hands.

A good rule of thumb is to aim for a slightly tighter tension than you’d use for a blanket or scarf. The flower should feel sturdy when you squeeze it gently, not soft and stretchy.

Getting Started: The Magic Ring

The magic ring is one of those techniques that feels a bit awkward the first time you try it, but once it clicks, you’ll use it for basically every project worked in the round. It allows you to start crocheting in a circle and pull the center completely closed so there’s no hole in the middle — which is exactly what you want for a neat, tidy daisy center.

To make a magic ring, wrap your yarn around two fingers to form a loop, insert your hook through the loop, pull up a loop of working yarn, and chain one to secure. Now you’re ready to work your stitches into the ring before pulling the tail to close it up tight. If you’ve never done this before, take a few minutes to practice before moving on to the actual flower pattern.

Crocheting the Daisy Center

The flower center is worked in the round from the middle outward, and it’s worked entirely in yellow yarn. This is the part that gives your daisy that classic look, so take your time and make sure your rounds are neat and even.

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 single crochets into the ring. Pull the tail to close the ring. You now have 6 stitches. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of the round so you can track where each round begins and ends. (6 sts)

Round 2: Work 2 single crochets into each stitch around. This is called an increase round, and it brings you from 6 stitches to 12. (12 sts)

Round 3: Work 1 single crochet in the first stitch, then 2 single crochets in the next stitch. Repeat this pattern all the way around — one regular, one increase — until you’ve completed the round. You’ll end up with 18 stitches. (18 sts)

Round 4: Work 1 single crochet in the first two stitches, then 2 single crochets in the third stitch. Repeat this pattern around. (24 sts)

At this point, your center should be a flat, circular disc about 2.5 to 3 centimeters across, depending on your yarn and hook. If you want a slightly larger or smaller center, you can add or remove a round at this stage. Just make sure you finish on an even increase round so the disc lies flat.

Now slip stitch to join the round, fasten off your yellow yarn, and weave in the end. Set this piece aside — we’ll come back to it in a moment.

Crocheting the Daisy Petals

The petals are what really make this project special. Each petal is crocheted individually and then attached around the outside of the center disc. This approach gives you beautiful, dimensional petals that stand out from the flower rather than lying flat.

A classic daisy has 8 petals, so that’s what we’ll be making here. You can absolutely make more or fewer depending on the look you want — 10 petals gives a fuller flower, and 6 petals gives a slightly more stylized, graphic look. For your first time, though, stick with 8 so you get a feel for the process.

Switch to your white or cream yarn for this section.

To make one petal:

Foundation: Chain 10. This is your starting chain and it forms the spine of the petal.

Row 1: Skip the first chain (the one closest to your hook), then work 1 slip stitch into the next chain, 1 single crochet into the next chain, 1 half double crochet into each of the next two chains, 1 double crochet into each of the next three chains, 1 half double crochet into the next chain, then work 3 single crochets into the very last chain at the tip of the petal. This last stitch is where you’ll turn and work back down the other side.

Now you’re going to work back down the other side of the foundation chain. Continue as follows: 1 half double crochet into the next stitch, 1 double crochet into each of the next three stitches, 1 half double crochet into each of the next two stitches, 1 single crochet into the next stitch, 1 slip stitch into the final stitch.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. That’s one petal done.

Repeat this process seven more times until you have 8 petals total. As you work your way through them, you’ll notice each one takes only a couple of minutes — these come together fast.

If any of your petals look slightly different from the others, don’t worry. A little variation is natural and honestly adds to the handmade charm of the finished flower. The key is that each petal has roughly the same length and a pointed tip with a wider, rounded base.

Attaching the Petals to the Center

This is the step where your flower really comes to life. You’re going to sew each petal around the outer edge of the yellow center disc, evenly spaced, using the long tails you left when fastening off each petal.

Before you start sewing, arrange all 8 petals around the center disc and take a moment to adjust the spacing by eye. You want them as evenly distributed as possible. If you have a ruler or just trust your instincts, aim for roughly the same gap between each petal.

To attach a petal, thread the tail onto your yarn needle and sew through the base of the petal and through the edge of the center disc a few times to secure it firmly. Then weave the end into the back of the flower so it’s hidden. Repeat for all 8 petals.

As you sew each one on, make sure all your petals are facing the same direction — they should all lay flat and point outward from the center like spokes on a wheel. If any petals seem to be twisting or curling in an odd direction, a gentle press with your fingers or a very light steam from an iron (held a few centimeters away — never directly on acrylic yarn) can help coax them into shape.

Once all 8 petals are attached, take a step back and look at what you’ve made. You should have a lovely, dimensional crocheted daisy with a neat yellow center and white petals radiating outward. At this stage it already looks beautiful and you should feel genuinely proud of yourself.

Adding the Stem

The stem is optional at this stage since you’ll be placing the flower in a pot anyway, but a sturdy stem makes assembly easier in Part 2 and gives your daisy a more realistic look.

Switch back to your green yarn. Create a foundation chain of about 25 to 30 chains — this will be approximately 10 to 12 centimeters long, which is a good height for a mini pot display. If you want a taller or shorter stem, adjust the number of chains accordingly.

Work 1 slip stitch into each chain from the hook back to the beginning. This creates a simple, neat chain cord that looks just like a stem. You can make it slightly thicker by working two slip stitches into each chain if you prefer, though one is usually enough for this scale.

Fasten off and leave a long tail at both ends. You’ll use these tails to attach the stem to the back of the flower and to anchor it inside the pot in Part 2.

Sew the top end of the stem securely to the center back of the flower, using the yarn needle and a few good stitches. Give it a gentle tug to make sure it’s firmly attached — the stem needs to support the weight of the flower without drooping.

Optional: Adding Leaves

If you want to give your mini daisy a little extra realism and color, you can add one or two small leaves to the stem. Leaves are simple to crochet and take just a few minutes each.

For one leaf:

Chain 8. Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 1 single crochet, 1 half double crochet, 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet, 1 half double crochet, 1 single crochet, and 3 single crochets in the last chain for the tip. Then work back down the other side of the chain mirroring the same stitches. Slip stitch to join and fasten off with a long tail.

Sew the leaf onto the stem wherever you’d like it to sit — typically about a third of the way up from the bottom looks natural. If you’re making two leaves, attach one on either side of the stem for a balanced, symmetrical look.

Finishing Touches for Part 1

Before you set your daisy aside and get ready for Part 2, take a few minutes to go over your work and tighten up any loose ends. Check that all the petal tails are woven in securely. Make sure the stem is attached firmly. Give the flower center a gentle squeeze — if you want a slightly puffy center, now is the time to carefully open up a few stitches at the back, stuff a tiny amount of polyfill inside, and close it back up with your yarn needle.

If you’re using natural fiber yarn like cotton or wool, a light blocking can work wonders on the petals. Simply wet the flower with cool water, gently reshape the petals with your fingers, pin them out flat on a foam mat, and allow to dry completely. The petals will set in a beautiful, even shape.

What’s Coming in Part 2

You’ve done the most creative, detail-oriented work in Part 1. In Part 2, we’ll be crocheting the little pot that houses your daisy, and walking through the assembly process step by step. The pot is worked from the bottom up in the round and has a lovely textured stitch pattern that makes it look just like a real terracotta planter. You’ll also learn how to create a simple “soil” base inside the pot to hold the stem upright.

By the end of Part 2, you’ll have a fully finished mini daisy pot that’s ready to display, gift, or photograph for your Instagram feed.

Tips for Beginners

If this is one of your first crochet projects, here are a few things that will make your experience smoother. First, count your stitches at the end of every round during the center disc section. It’s very easy to accidentally add or skip a stitch when you’re crocheting in the round, and catching it early saves you the frustration of noticing it later. Second, don’t rush the petal attachment. Taking your time to space and sew each petal carefully is what separates a good result from a truly lovely one. And third, be gentle with yourself. Crochet is a skill that builds over time, and every stitch you make — even the imperfect ones — is teaching you something.

Final Thoughts

The Mini Daisy Pot is one of those projects that perfectly balances simplicity with impact. It’s not complicated, but the result looks like something you’d find in a craft fair or an Etsy shop. The skills you practice here — working in the round, increasing evenly, shaping petals, and assembling pieces — are foundational crochet techniques that you’ll use over and over again in future projects.

Take photos of your progress as you go, share them if you’re on social media, and tag The Chill Crochet so we can see your beautiful work. And when you’re ready, head over to Part 2 to finish your mini daisy pot from start to pot.

Happy crocheting, and as always — keep it chill.