Crochet Small Flower Pot (~8cm) 🌷🌷🌷 | Amigurumi Tutorial – Easy Project

If you’ve been looking for a beginner-friendly crochet project that looks absolutely adorable when finished, you’ve landed in exactly the right place. This tutorial walks you through how to crochet a small flower pot measuring approximately 8 centimeters tall — the perfect amigurumi-style decoration for your desk, shelf, windowsill, or gifting table. Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter or someone who just learned their first magic ring, this project is approachable, quick, and deeply satisfying to complete.

The finished piece has that classic terracotta flower pot silhouette — a slightly tapered body with a defined rim at the top — and it can be stuffed firmly to sit upright on its own. Fill it with crochet flowers, dried botanicals, tiny succulents, or even a crocheted cactus for a charming miniature garden scene.

Let’s get started.

What You’ll Need

Before picking up your hook, gather the following materials. This project is intentionally small, so even yarn scraps from previous projects will work beautifully here.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (medium / #4 weight) in terracotta, rust, or any earthy tone you love. You’ll need approximately 30–50 meters for the pot body. A small amount of a darker or lighter shade for the rim detail adds a lovely contrast, though it’s entirely optional.

Hook: A 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook works best for this project. Slightly smaller than what the yarn label recommends keeps your stitches tight enough to hold the stuffing without visible gaps.

Stuffing: Polyfill stuffing, cotton batting, or even repurposed yarn scraps to fill the inside of the pot. You want the pot to feel firm and sturdy so it holds its shape when displayed.

Stitch marker: Just one, to mark the beginning of each round as you work in continuous spirals.

Tapestry needle: For weaving in ends neatly once you’re done.

Scissors: A small pair works fine.

Optional — cardboard or plastic canvas: Cutting a small circle to place inside the base of the pot gives it a flat, stable bottom and prevents it from wobbling.

Understanding Amigurumi Basics

Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting small stuffed figures, animals, food, or objects. The style typically involves working in continuous rounds (rather than joined rounds), using a tight tension to prevent stuffing from showing through, and stuffing the piece as you go rather than at the very end.

For this flower pot, you’ll be working almost entirely in single crochet stitches in continuous spirals. This keeps the fabric dense and uniform, which is exactly what you want for a small decorative object meant to hold its shape. If you’re used to working in joined rounds with a slip stitch and turning chain, this method might feel unfamiliar at first, but it becomes intuitive very quickly once you’re a few rounds in.

The magic ring (also called a magic circle) is the standard starting method for amigurumi projects. It allows you to pull the center completely closed so there’s no hole at the base of your pot. If you’re not comfortable with the magic ring yet, you can substitute by chaining 2 and working your first round into the second chain from the hook — just pull the tail tight to close.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

The pattern below uses US crochet terminology throughout.

MR — Magic Ring
sc — single crochet
inc — increase (2 single crochets worked into the same stitch)
dec — decrease (single crochet 2 together, or sc2tog)
sl st — slip stitch
ch — chain
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
st(s) — stitch(es)

The Pattern: Small Flower Pot (~8cm)

Base of the Pot

The base is worked flat in increasing rounds, just like you’d work the bottom of any amigurumi piece.

Round 1: Start with a MR. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: Sc 1, inc — repeat from to around. (18 sts)

Round 4: Sc 2, inc — repeat from to around. (24 sts)

Round 5: Sc 3, inc — repeat from to around. (30 sts)

At this point, your base should measure roughly 5–5.5cm across. If you want a slightly wider base, you can continue adding one more increase round: Sc 4, inc around to reach 36 stitches. For the standard 8cm pot, 30 stitches is the ideal count.

Body of the Pot

Now you’ll transition from working flat to working up the sides. The key to shaping the pot’s body is working into the back loop only for one round, which creates a clean, defined edge where the base meets the sides.

Round 6 (BLO): Sc in BLO of each st around. (30 sts)

This round is the “pivot” — you’re not increasing or decreasing, just switching from flat to vertical using the back loops. After this round, you’ll work in both loops as normal.

Rounds 7–8: Sc in each st around. (30 sts)

Now add a very slight taper to give the pot that classic flower pot silhouette — slightly narrower at the base, wider toward the top.

Round 9: Sc 4, inc — repeat from to around. (36 sts)

Rounds 10–11: Sc in each st around. (36 sts)

Round 12: Sc 5, inc — repeat from to around. (42 sts)

Rounds 13–14: Sc in each st around. (42 sts)

By now your pot body is taking shape beautifully. You should be able to see the tapered profile when you look at it from the side.

The Rim

The rim is what makes a crochet flower pot look polished and realistic. You’ll work a few rounds in a contrasting shade if you like, or continue with the same color. The rim flares slightly outward, mimicking the lip of a real terracotta pot.

If switching yarn color, do so at the beginning of this section by finishing the last stitch of Round 14 with the new yarn.

Round 15: Sc 6, inc — repeat from to around. (48 sts)

Round 16: Sc in each st around. (48 sts)

Round 17: Sc 7, inc — repeat from to around. (54 sts)

Round 18: Sc in each st around. (54 sts)

For a slightly more pronounced rim, work one additional round of sc around without increasing, then finish off. The rim should visibly flare outward from the body of the pot — that’s exactly what you’re going for.

To finish, slip stitch into the next stitch to close the round cleanly, then cut your yarn leaving a 15cm tail for weaving in.

Stuffing and Finishing

Before you stuff, this is a great moment to insert your optional cardboard or plastic canvas circle into the base of the pot. Trace a circle slightly smaller than your base diameter, cut it out, and drop it into the bottom. This gives the pot a completely flat base and makes it stand perfectly on a shelf without rocking.

Now stuff the pot firmly with polyfill. You want it to feel solid when you press on the sides — not squishy. A firmly stuffed pot holds its shape and looks much more realistic displayed on a shelf. Use the eraser end of a pencil or a stuffing tool to push filling into the bottom corners of the pot.

You don’t need to close the top of the pot the way you would with a stuffed amigurumi animal. The opening at the top is intentional — it’s where your crochet flowers, botanical stems, or decorative elements will sit. If you want the inside of the pot to look neat (since it will be visible from above), cut a small circle of felt or cardboard slightly larger than the opening and press it gently into the top so it sits just below the rim. This hides the stuffing and creates a tidy “soil” surface.

Weave in all your ends with the tapestry needle, making sure to weave through several stitches in different directions so nothing comes undone over time.

How to Style Your Crochet Flower Pot

One of the most enjoyable parts of this project is deciding what to put inside your little pot once it’s finished. Here are some ideas to inspire you.

Crochet flowers: Small amigurumi roses, daisies, or tulips look stunning tucked into the pot. You can use pipe cleaners or floral wire as stems so the flowers stand upright at different heights. Wrap the wire in green embroidery floss or yarn for a polished look.

Dried botanicals: Small sprigs of dried lavender, baby’s breath, or eucalyptus tuck neatly into the pot and add a lovely natural contrast to the crocheted texture.

Crochet succulents and cacti: These are perfect companion pieces for this pot. Small amigurumi succulents — worked in varying shades of green — create a realistic miniature succulent arrangement when grouped in one pot.

Pencil holder: Scale the pattern up slightly (add more increase rounds to the base and more body rounds for height) and you have a charming desk organizer for pens, scissors, or markers.

Gift wrapping: These pots make beautiful gift packaging for small presents. Nestle a little gift inside with tissue paper and ribbon, and the pot itself becomes part of the gift.

Tips for a Beautiful Finish

Tension matters more than speed. In amigurumi projects, stitches that are too loose create visible gaps that let stuffing poke through. If you notice your work looks open or airy, try dropping down one hook size.

Count your stitches every single round. It’s very easy to accidentally skip an increase or add an unintended extra stitch. Stitch counts listed in parentheses after each round are there to help you catch errors early, when fixing them is simple.

Use a stitch marker consistently. Place it in the first stitch of each new round and move it up as you go. Without a marker, it’s genuinely difficult to track where rounds begin and end when working in continuous spirals.

Block if needed. If your finished pot looks slightly uneven or misshapen after stuffing, a light steam block can help. Hold a steam iron a few centimeters above the surface and let the steam relax the fibers, then gently shape the pot with your hands while it’s still warm and damp. Let it cool and dry completely in the desired shape.

Experiment with color. Classic terracotta is beautiful, but pale pink, sage green, dusty blue, or even a bright sunflower yellow make equally charming pots. A two-toned design with a contrasting rim is especially cute and requires almost no extra effort beyond switching yarn at Round 15.

Sizing Variations

The pattern as written produces a pot approximately 7.5–8.5cm tall and about 6cm wide at the base, with the rim measuring around 7.5cm across. Here’s how to adjust the size:

For a smaller pot (about 5–6cm): Stop the base increases at Round 4 (24 stitches), reduce the body rounds by two, and skip the last increase round of the rim section.

For a larger pot (about 10–12cm): Add one or two extra increase rounds to the base to reach 36 or 42 stitches before transitioning to the sides, and add 3–4 additional body rounds. Adjust the rim proportionally by adding one more increase round.

Changing your hook size and yarn weight will also affect the final dimensions significantly. Using bulky yarn (#5 or #6) and a 5.0–6.0mm hook will produce a considerably larger pot from the same stitch count, which is great if you want a planter-sized version for a succulent display.

Why This Project Is Perfect for Beginners

The single crochet stitch is as fundamental as it gets in crochet, and this entire pot uses almost nothing else. There are no complex stitch combinations, no tricky color changes mid-row, and no counting errors that can’t be easily fixed. The shape builds itself naturally through simple, predictable increases and decreases, so even if you’ve only been crocheting for a few weeks, you’ll find this pattern well within reach.

Completing a small amigurumi project like this pot also teaches you two of the most transferable skills in all of amigurumi: working in continuous rounds and understanding how flat circles become three-dimensional shapes. Once those concepts click, the entire world of amigurumi — stuffed animals, miniature food, fantasy characters, and everything in between — becomes accessible to you.

The project also finishes in a single sitting for most people. From start to stuffed finish, expect somewhere between 45 minutes and 2 hours depending on your experience level and the speed at which you work. That makes it deeply satisfying in a way that longer multi-session projects sometimes aren’t — you start, you finish, you display it proudly on your shelf.

A Note on Yarn Choices

Cotton yarn is a wonderful choice for this pot because it’s firm, holds its shape well, and has a slightly matte texture that photographs beautifully and mimics the look of real clay. It also tends to have more stitch definition than acrylic, which makes the amigurumi surface look crisper and cleaner.

That said, acrylic yarn is perfectly fine and will give you a softer, slightly squishier pot. Many crafters prefer acrylic for its enormous color range and affordability, and the result is just as charming.

Wool or wool blends are lovely if you want a rustic, cozy aesthetic — and they’re ideal for blocking if precise shaping matters to you. Just be aware that wool felts when exposed to heat and agitation, so keep your finished pot away from steam if you’ve used a felting-prone fiber.

Sharing Your Finished Project

If you make this little flower pot, please share it! Tag your photos so other crafters can find inspiration from your color choices and styling. The crochet community is wonderfully generous and encouraging, and seeing your finished version — whether it’s a classic terracotta beauty, a pastel rainbow, or a bold jewel-toned statement piece — genuinely inspires others to pick up their hooks and try.

Every crafter makes this pattern slightly differently. Your yarn, your tension, your color palette, and the way you style and photograph it all combine into something uniquely yours. That’s one of the most beautiful things about making anything by hand.

Happy crocheting, and may your little pot bring a smile to everyone who sees it. 🌷