Crochet Chrysanthemum Pattern Free (PDF + Beginner Tutorial)
If you’ve ever wanted to capture the layered, lush beauty of a chrysanthemum in yarn, you’re in exactly the right place. This free crochet chrysanthemum pattern walks you through every stitch, every petal, and every finishing detail so that even a complete beginner can walk away with a flower they’re genuinely proud of. Whether you’re making a single bloom for a hair clip, a cluster for a wreath, or an entire bouquet for a wedding centerpiece, this pattern scales beautifully and works up faster than you might expect.
Below you’ll find full written instructions, tips on yarn and hook selection, guidance on color choices, finishing ideas, and a downloadable PDF section you can print and keep beside you while you work. Grab your hook and let’s get started.
Why Crochet a Chrysanthemum?
The chrysanthemum is one of the most recognized flowers in the world. In Japan it’s a symbol of longevity and imperial dignity. In China it represents autumn and resilience. Across Western traditions it shows up at celebrations, funerals, and everything in between. All of that meaning packed into a flower — and now you can recreate it in yarn.
From a crafter’s perspective, the chrysanthemum is a wonderful project for a few reasons. First, it’s made up of repeated petal layers, which means once you get the rhythm of a single petal, you essentially know the whole flower. Second, it’s forgiving. Because the petals are dense and layered, small tension differences or uneven stitches disappear into the overall shape. Third, it’s versatile. A tight, small version in DK weight yarn makes a delicate hair accessory. A loose, oversized version in chunky yarn makes a dramatic home decor piece. The same basic pattern can do both.
Materials You’ll Need
Before diving into the instructions, gather your supplies. You don’t need much to get started.
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (size 4) works best for beginners because it’s easy to see your stitches and produces a flower with good structure. You’ll need roughly 50–80 yards for a medium-sized bloom, depending on how many petal layers you add. Cotton yarn gives a crisp, defined petal edge. Acrylic yarn is more flexible and great for color variety. Wool blends add a soft, slightly fuzzy texture that mimics the silky look of a real chrysanthemum.
Hook: A size 5mm (US H/8) hook pairs well with worsted weight yarn. If you’re using DK weight, drop to a 4mm (US G/6). If you’re going chunky, move up to a 6mm or larger.
Other supplies: Yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers (optional but helpful), and floral wire or a pin back if you plan to make a brooch or hair clip.
Optional: A small amount of contrasting yarn for the center button of the flower, and felt or fabric glue if you’re attaching the flower to a project.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
This pattern uses standard US crochet abbreviations.
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble crochet
sp — space
rep — repeat
st — stitch
rnd — round
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
MR — magic ring (also called magic circle)
Understanding the Structure
A crocheted chrysanthemum is built in concentric layers. You start with a flat center disk, then build rings of petals outward and upward. Each petal ring is slightly longer than the one before it, which creates the characteristic dome shape of a full chrysanthemum bloom.
Think of it like this: the center is your foundation, the first petal ring sits low and tight, the second ring fans out a little, the third ring reaches upward and outward, and any additional rings keep extending that outward curve. When you’re done, the layers stack naturally on top of one another, and the whole thing forms a rounded, layered bloom.
Free Crochet Chrysanthemum Pattern
Gauge
Gauge is not critical for this project. The finished flower will be approximately 4 inches in diameter with worsted weight yarn and a 5mm hook, using three petal rounds. Add more rounds for a larger, fuller flower.
The Center Disk
The center disk is a small flat circle that forms the base of your flower. All your petal rounds will grow from this piece.
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the tail to close the ring. Sl st to the first sc to join. (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, work 2 sc into each stitch around. Sl st to join. (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from to around. Sl st to join. (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, repeat from to around. Sl st to join. (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, repeat from to around. Sl st to join. (30 sts)
You now have a flat circle with 30 stitches around the edge. Fasten off and weave in the tail end, but leave a long tail at the starting end for sewing if needed.
Petal Round One (Short Inner Petals)
These are the tightest, smallest petals. They sit at the center of the flower and peek out from beneath the outer layers.
Join yarn in any stitch of the center disk with a sl st.
Each petal is worked as follows: Ch 4, tr in the base of the ch-4 (the stitch you just sl st into), tr again in the same stitch, ch 4, sl st in the same stitch. This creates one pointed petal.
Work one petal into every stitch around the center disk. You will have 30 short petals when complete.
Sl st to the base of the first petal to close the round. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Tip: These petals can look a little chaotic at first, but don’t worry. They will fan out and separate naturally once the later layers push them into position.
Petal Round Two (Medium Petals)
For this round, you’ll work into the back loops only (BLO) of the center disk. This is what allows you to add multiple rounds of petals to the same disk without the stitches fighting each other.
Turn the flower over so the back is facing up, or tilt it toward you to access the back loops. If you placed a stitch marker in a specific stitch, use that as your starting point so the petals stagger nicely.
Join new yarn in the back loop of any stitch with a sl st.
Each petal is worked as follows: Ch 5, dc in the base stitch, dc again in the same stitch, ch 5, sl st in the same stitch.
Work one petal into the back loop of every other stitch around. You will have approximately 15 medium petals.
Sl st to close. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Note: If you want a very full flower, work one medium petal into every stitch rather than every other stitch. The petals will overlap significantly, which is a beautiful, dense look that closely resembles a real chrysanthemum.
Petal Round Three (Long Outer Petals)
This is the outermost ring and the tallest petal layer. These petals give the flower its height and that classic rounded dome shape.
Work into the back loops of the remaining unused stitches from your center disk, or if you’ve used all available loops, you can work into the spaces between the base of the shorter petals.
Join yarn with a sl st.
Each petal is worked as follows: Ch 7, tr in the base stitch, tr again in the same stitch, ch 7, sl st in the same stitch.
Work one petal into each available stitch or space around. Sl st to close. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
The Center Button (Optional but Recommended)
A small center button finishes the flower beautifully and hides any untidy stitch work in the middle.
Using a contrasting color (yellow and gold work wonderfully for a traditional chrysanthemum look), make a magic ring and work 6 sc into it. Pull the ring closed and sl st to join. Ch 1, work 2 sc in each stitch around. Sl st to join. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.
Use the long tail to sew this small circle directly onto the center of your finished flower. Pull gently as you sew to create a slight dome shape in the button.
Assembling Your Flower
Once all your petal rounds are finished and your ends are woven in, take a moment to shape the flower with your fingers. Gently coax the inner petals upright, fan out the middle petals, and let the outer petals curl downward slightly. Real chrysanthemums have this exact curve — tight and upright at the center, spreading and slightly drooping at the edges.
If your petals are very stiff or holding an unwanted shape, a light spritz of water and a gentle reshape followed by air drying will help. For cotton yarn in particular, a little blocking goes a long way.
Making a Larger or Smaller Flower
The beauty of this pattern is how easy it is to scale. To make a smaller flower, simply use a lighter weight yarn and a smaller hook, and stop at two petal rounds instead of three. A tiny version worked in size 10 crochet thread on a steel hook produces a delicate flower about an inch across — perfect for jewelry.
To make a larger flower, use bulkier yarn and a larger hook, and add a fourth or fifth petal round. For petal round four, use chains of 8 and treble crochets, and for round five, use chains of 9 with double treble crochets. The principle is the same: each round gets one chain longer to ensure the outer petals extend beyond the inner ones.
Color Ideas and Inspiration
Chrysanthemums come in an almost limitless range of colors in nature — deep burgundy, pale lavender, sunny yellow, pure white, coral, bronze, and even bicolor varieties with tipped or graduated petals. You can replicate that variety in yarn.
For a classic look, try a deep golden yellow for all petal rounds with a darker burnt orange center button. For something romantic, use dusty mauve or blush pink. For a dramatic statement piece, deep burgundy or wine red against a cream center is stunning. If you want to attempt a bicolor effect, you can switch yarn color partway through a petal round, or use a variegated yarn that naturally transitions through multiple tones.
White chrysanthemums hold a special place in floral tradition, and crocheted white blooms look incredibly realistic, especially in a silk or mercerized cotton yarn that has a soft sheen.
Project Ideas for Your Crocheted Chrysanthemum
Once you’ve made your first bloom, chances are good you’ll want to make several more. Here are some ways to use them.
Hair accessories: Sew a comb, clip, or elastic band to the back of your flower for an instant hair accessory. A cluster of three small chrysanthemums in graduating sizes makes a particularly elegant piece.
Brooches and pins: Glue or sew a pin back to the underside of the flower. Use it on a coat lapel, a scarf, a hat brim, or a bag.
Wreaths: Wire several flowers to a grapevine or foam wreath base for a seasonal door decoration. Autumn-toned chrysanthemums look gorgeous on a fall wreath combined with leaves and berries.
Bouquets: Attach finished flowers to floral wire stems and wrap the wire in green floral tape. Arrange in a vase for a permanent, low-maintenance bouquet that never wilts.
Appliqués for clothing and accessories: Sew chrysanthemums onto plain hats, tote bags, scarves, pillow covers, or cardigans for a custom handmade touch.
Gift toppers: Instead of a bow on a wrapped gift, pin a crocheted chrysanthemum to the ribbon. The recipient gets the flower as an extra gift.
Framed fiber art: Mount several flowers at different sizes and in coordinating colors onto a canvas or in a shadow box frame for textile wall art.
Beginner Tips for Success
If this is one of your first crochet flower projects, a few pieces of advice will save you frustration.
Work your magic ring slowly and pull it closed firmly before proceeding. A loose center will cause your disk to buckle and your flower to look uneven.
When working the back loop only rounds, take a moment to clearly identify the back loop before inserting your hook. It’s the loop farthest from you when the work is facing up. Using a stitch marker or a contrasting color yarn to mark the first stitch of each round helps you keep track of where you are.
Don’t pull your petals too tight as you form them. The chains in each petal need a little slack to stand upright. If your petals lay flat instead of standing up, try loosening your tension slightly or going up half a hook size.
Count your stitches at the end of each round of the center disk. Getting the stitch count right at this stage ensures your petal rounds come out evenly.
Finally, weave in your ends carefully and completely. Because the flower is dimensional and will be handled, loose ends have a way of working themselves out. Take the extra minute to run each end through at least an inch of stitches in two different directions.
Downloading the PDF
To save and print this pattern, simply select all the text from the Materials section through the end of the instructions, paste it into a word processor such as Google Docs or Microsoft Word, adjust the font and spacing to your preference, and save or print as a PDF. You can also use your browser’s print function and choose “Save as PDF” as the destination printer. This gives you a clean, portable copy you can take with you to a crafting circle, keep in your project bag, or file in your pattern binder.
If you prefer a formatted version with visual spacing, consider organizing the pattern into sections with page breaks between the center disk instructions and each petal round, so you can reference individual pages while you work without losing your place.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use this pattern commercially? This pattern is offered free for personal use. If you sell finished items made from this pattern, that’s generally fine and encouraged. If you’d like to redistribute or teach the pattern itself, please link back to the original source rather than copying it wholesale.
What if my flower looks lumpy or uneven? Uneven tension is the most common cause. Try blocking the finished flower by dampening it with cool water, shaping it by hand, and letting it dry flat on a towel. This evens out most tension inconsistencies beautifully.
How do I make the petals more defined? Use cotton yarn and a hook one size smaller than recommended. Cotton has less stretch than acrylic or wool, which gives each petal a crisper, more defined edge.
Can I make this flower amigurumi-style with stuffing? Yes! After completing the center disk and first petal round, you can stuff the disk lightly with a small amount of polyfill before attaching the outer petal rounds. This gives the flower a slightly three-dimensional, sculptural quality.
How long does this flower take to make? For a beginner, allow about 1.5 to 2 hours for your first flower. Once you’re familiar with the petal construction, subsequent flowers typically take 45 minutes to an hour.
Final Thoughts
The crocheted chrysanthemum is one of those patterns that looks impressively complex but is actually built from very simple, repeated steps. Once you understand that the whole flower is just a small circle with rings of petals growing from it, the project stops feeling intimidating and starts feeling satisfying. There’s something deeply enjoyable about watching a flat circle gradually bloom into a dimensional, recognizable flower.
Whether you’re making one for yourself, one to give away, or one as a quiet first step into the world of crochet, this pattern has everything you need. Work through it once, and you’ll likely find yourself reaching for another ball of yarn before the first flower is even finished.
Happy crocheting. May your tension be even, your ends be tidy, and your chrysanthemums bloom in every color you imagine.
