Amigurumi Crochet Flower Pattern — Hooked by Robin

If you’ve ever wanted to add a little burst of handmade charm to your amigurumi projects, a crocheted flower is one of the most satisfying and versatile things you can make. Whether you’re attaching it to a bunny’s ear, tucking it into a bear’s paw, or simply making a whole bouquet of them to display in a vase, these little blooms bring any crochet project to life. This amigurumi crochet flower pattern from Hooked by Robin walks you through every step — from your very first magic ring to the final fastened-off petal — so that even a beginner can create something genuinely beautiful.

Let’s get into it.

What Is an Amigurumi Flower?

Before we dive into the pattern itself, it helps to understand what makes a flower “amigurumi style” versus a standard crochet flower. Traditional amigurumi focuses on creating small, stuffed three-dimensional figures — usually animals or characters — using tight single crochet stitches worked in continuous rounds. When we apply that same philosophy to flowers, we get petals that have a slight sculptural quality, a dense and smooth texture, and a sturdy little center that holds its shape over time.

Amigurumi flowers are typically smaller and rounder than decorative crochet flowers meant for appliqué on blankets or bags. They’re designed to complement amigurumi figures, so they tend to be compact, cute, and just slightly exaggerated in their proportions — big round center, plump petals, the kind of stylized look you’d expect from a character in a children’s book illustration.

This particular pattern produces a flower that measures approximately 2 to 2.5 inches in diameter when made with standard DK or worsted weight yarn. You can easily size it up or down by changing your yarn weight and hook size, which we’ll talk about in the materials section.

Materials You’ll Need

One of the great things about crocheting small flowers is that the materials list is minimal. You probably already have most of what you need in your stash.

Yarn: Any smooth yarn in your chosen petal color and a contrasting color for the center. For a classic look, try a soft yellow center with white, lavender, or coral petals. DK weight yarn (also called light worsted or size 3) is ideal for a flower around 2 inches. If you want something smaller, go down to fingering weight. For a larger, fluffier bloom, use worsted or bulky weight.

Hook: A 2.5mm to 3.5mm hook pairs beautifully with DK weight yarn and keeps your stitches tight enough that the flower holds its shape. For worsted weight, a 4mm or 4.5mm hook works well. As with all amigurumi, you want to go a size or two smaller than what the yarn label recommends — this creates that characteristic dense fabric.

Tapestry needle: You’ll need this for weaving in ends and, if you’re attaching the flower to an amigurumi figure, for sewing it in place.

Scissors

Stitch marker: Optional but helpful for keeping track of your rounds.

Fiberfill stuffing: Only needed if you want to give the flower center a slight puffed, three-dimensional quality. For a flat flower, skip this entirely.

Buttons or safety eyes: Completely optional, but a small button sewn to the center gives the flower a sweet vintage look, and a tiny pair of safety eyes can make it look like a little character peeking back at you.

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.

MR — Magic ring (also called magic circle or adjustable ring)
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
hdc — Half double crochet
dc — Double crochet
inc — Increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
st(s) — Stitch(es)
BLO — Back loop only
FLO — Front loop only
( ) — Work all stitches listed inside the parentheses into the same stitch
[ ] x — Repeat the instructions inside the brackets the number of times indicated

A Note on Gauge

Gauge isn’t critical for this project the way it would be for a wearable item, but it does affect the finished size. If you crochet loosely, your flower will come out larger and airier. If you crochet tightly, it will be smaller and denser. For amigurumi-style flowers, tighter is usually better — you want that sturdy, defined shape rather than a floppy, open fabric.

If you’re making multiple flowers for a bouquet or as matching accessories for a set of amigurumi figures, it’s worth making a test flower first so all your blooms come out consistent.

The Pattern

Flower Center

The center is worked first, in your contrast color. This will be the round “button” at the heart of the flower, and all the petals will grow from its edges.

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: [Sc in next st, inc in next st] repeat around. (18 sts)

Sl st into the next stitch and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing if you plan to attach this flower to something. Otherwise, fasten off and weave in both ends.

Your finished center should look like a small, flat disc roughly the size of a large button. This is your foundation for the petals.

Petals — Method One: Simple Five-Petal Flower

This version gives you a classic five-petal daisy shape that’s clean, easy, and fast to make. It’s ideal for beginners and for projects where you want a recognizable, traditional flower look.

Join your petal-color yarn in any stitch of Round 3 of the flower center.

Petal 1:
Ch 1, sc in same st.
Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in same st, ch 3, sl st in same st.
Sl st in next st, sl st in next st.

Petals 2 through 5: Repeat the instructions for Petal 1 until you have 5 petals total, working each petal’s starting sc into the stitch where you end the previous sl sts.

Sl st to join and fasten off. Weave in ends.

The result is a cheerful, slightly rounded five-petal flower where each petal has a small arch shape. If you find the petals curl inward, block the flower lightly by misting it with water and pressing it flat with your fingers, then let it air dry.

Petals — Method Two: Layered Ruffle Flower

This version is a little more advanced and produces a lush, multi-layered effect that looks beautiful as a hair clip, brooch, or focal piece on an amigurumi figure. It uses the front and back loops to create two separate layers of petals.

After finishing the flower center, do not cut your yarn. Instead, continue with your petal color (or join it in any stitch).

Back Layer Petals (worked in BLO):

Working in the BLO of Round 3 of the flower center, work the following petal 6 times evenly around (one petal per every 3 stitches):

This creates 6 rounded petals sitting at the outer edge of the center disc.

Front Layer Petals (worked in FLO of Round 2):

Now you’ll go back and work into the front loops that were left behind in Round 2 of the flower center. Join your petal color (this can be the same color or a different shade for an ombré effect) into the FLO of any stitch in Round 2.

Since Round 2 has 12 stitches, you’ll be working one petal into every other stitch, giving you 6 smaller petals that sit slightly inside and in front of the outer petal layer.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

When you’ve finished, you’ll have a flower with two rings of petals — a larger outer ring and a smaller inner ring — creating that lush, full look.

Optional: Puffy 3D Flower Center

If you want the center of your flower to have a slight dome shape rather than lying completely flat, work Rounds 1 and 2 as written above, then before you work Round 3, place a small pinch of fiberfill in the center. Work Round 3 over the fiberfill, pulling it snug as you go, and the center will puff up into a little mound. This looks especially charming when you add a button or bead on top.

Optional: Stem and Leaves

A stem transforms your standalone flower into something you can pop into a small vase, tie into a bouquet, or use as a gift topper.

Stem: Cut a length of floral wire or pipe cleaner (approximately 4 to 6 inches). Fold one end into a small loop so it won’t poke through. Using green yarn and a 2.5mm hook, sl st around the wire, working sc stitches tightly around it until it’s completely covered. Fasten off and weave in the end. Sew or glue the looped end to the back of the flower center.

Leaf: With green yarn, make a magic ring. Ch 1, then work (sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc) into the ring. Pull the ring closed. Ch 1, then work back along the other side: (sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc). Sl st to join and fasten off. The result is a small oval leaf shape. Attach it to the stem at any height you like.

Tips for a Perfect Amigurumi Flower

Work tight. Loose stitches are the enemy of amigurumi. If your petals look floppy or see-through, try going down a hook size. The fabric should feel dense when you pinch it between your fingers.

Use a magic ring. It’s tempting to start with a chain-2 or chain-4 circle instead, but a magic ring gives you a cleanly closed center with no visible gap. For flowers especially, where the center is prominently displayed, this makes a noticeable difference in the finished look.

Block your flowers. Even a small amount of blocking makes crochet flowers look considerably more polished. Mist them lightly with cool water, reshape the petals with your fingers, and lay them flat to dry. For cotton yarn, you can wet block more aggressively. For acrylic, a gentle steam block works beautifully — just don’t press the iron directly against the yarn.

Experiment with color. This pattern works in literally any color combination. Some favorites: white petals with a sunshine yellow center for a classic daisy; dusty rose petals with a cream center for a romantic aesthetic; lavender petals with a pale green center for a wildflower feel; deep magenta petals with an orange center for something bold and tropical. Don’t be afraid to use variegated or ombre yarn for the petals either — the color shifts look absolutely stunning.

Make a whole bouquet. One flower is lovely. Twelve flowers bundled together and tied with a ribbon are spectacular. If you’re making a gift for someone who loves handmade things, a small amigurumi bouquet with these flowers, a few leaves, and pipe-cleaner stems is genuinely unforgettable. It takes about 20 to 30 minutes per flower once you’ve got the hang of the pattern.

Attach with care. When sewing a flower onto an amigurumi figure, use a tapestry needle and the long yarn tail you left when fastening off. Work through the back of the flower center and into the surface of your figure, taking several passes through different angles to anchor it securely. A flower that’s only attached by one or two passes will eventually work itself loose, especially if it’s going to a child.

How to Use This Pattern

The versatility of this pattern is one of its best features. Here are just a few of the ways you can use these amigurumi-style crochet flowers.

Hair accessories: Sew a flower onto an alligator clip base or a headband for an instant handmade hair accessory. Add a small button or pearl bead to the center for a touch of elegance.

Appliqué: Sew flowers onto hats, bags, amigurumi figures, or clothing for quick and cheerful embellishment.

Bouquets and arrangements: Pair with wire stems and green leaves for a no-wilt bouquet that lasts forever. These make wonderful decorations for weddings, nurseries, and home decor.

Keychains and bag charms: Make a tiny version using fingering weight yarn and a 1.75mm hook, attach a keyring, and you have a sweet little bag charm.

Amigurumi accessories: Tuck a flower into the paw of a crochet bunny, pin one to the chest of a little bear, or attach a whole daisy chain around the neck of a crochet lamb. These small details are what elevate an amigurumi figure from cute to truly special.

Gift wrapping: Attach a flower to a wrapped gift in place of a bow. The recipient gets both a lovely package presentation and a little handmade keepsake.

Yarn Substitutions and Sizing Guide

As mentioned, this pattern adapts easily to different yarn weights. Here’s a quick reference.

For fingering weight yarn with a 1.75mm to 2mm hook, finished flowers come out approximately 1 to 1.25 inches — tiny and precious, perfect for keychains or doll accessories.

For DK weight yarn with a 2.75mm to 3mm hook, finished flowers are approximately 2 to 2.5 inches — the classic amigurumi flower size, great for hair clips and small bouquets.

For worsted weight yarn with a 4mm hook, finished flowers are approximately 3 to 3.5 inches — a bolder, more impactful flower that works well as a standalone brooch or centerpiece of a larger arrangement.

For bulky weight yarn with a 5mm to 6mm hook, finished flowers are approximately 4 to 5 inches — almost sculptural in scale, great for large home decor pieces or oversized stuffed animals.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use this pattern for commercial purposes?
Please check the terms of use on the Hooked by Robin website for the most current licensing information regarding selling finished items made from this pattern.

What if my petals don’t all look the same?
This is completely normal when you’re first learning. Crochet petals even out with practice, and blocking helps tremendously with consistency. If one petal is noticeably larger or smaller than the others, you can gently reshape it while wet blocking.

Can I make this flower without a magic ring?
Yes, though the center may have a small gap. Chain 4 and join with a slip stitch to form a ring, then work your Round 1 stitches into the center of that ring. Pull the starting tail gently to close the gap as much as possible before proceeding.

How do I join new yarn for the petals?
Insert your hook into the designated stitch, place your new yarn over the hook with a 6-inch tail, and pull up a loop. Chain 1 and proceed with the pattern. Weave in both the starting tail and the fastening-off tail when you’re done.

Final Thoughts from Hooked by Robin

There’s something deeply satisfying about crocheting a small, perfect flower. It takes only a few minutes once you know the steps, it uses up yarn scraps you’d otherwise tuck away and forget, and it adds a handmade touch to everything it touches. Whether you’re a brand-new crocheter working through your very first magic ring or a seasoned amigurumi maker looking for a new accessory to add to your repertoire, this pattern was made with you in mind.

The best thing about amigurumi is the way small details create big feelings. A little crocheted flower tucked into the ear of a bunny, balanced in the paws of a bear, or handed to a child as a tiny bouquet carries all the warmth of something made by hand with intention and care. That’s what Hooked by Robin