Jasmine Stitch Crochet Coaster | Step-by-Step Crochet Along

If you’ve been wanting to try the jasmine stitch but felt a little intimidated by all those loops, you’re in the right place. This crochet along will walk you through every step of making a beautiful jasmine stitch coaster from start to finish. By the time you’re done, you’ll have a thick, textured, absolutely gorgeous coaster — and the confidence to use this stitch in bigger projects like bags, blankets, and pillows.

Let’s dive in.

What Is the Jasmine Stitch?

The jasmine stitch is one of those stitches that looks far more complicated than it actually is. At its core, it’s built on clusters of long loops gathered together and anchored with a single stitch. The result is a raised, almost three-dimensional texture that resembles the layered petals of a jasmine flower — which is exactly where the name comes from.

You’ll sometimes see it called the star stitch or the Catherine wheel, though each of those has slight variations. The jasmine stitch specifically creates a tight, dense fabric that’s ideal for home accessories. Because of its thickness and the way the layers of yarn stack up, it gives coasters a satisfying weight and a surface that’s plush against your fingertips.

The stitch pattern works in rounds (for circular or square projects) or rows (for flat panels), and once you understand the rhythm, you’ll find yourself flying through it. The key is learning to count your loops and getting comfortable pulling up strands through multiple previous loops. It sounds abstract right now, but it will make total sense once we get going.

Why Make a Jasmine Stitch Coaster?

Coasters are a perfect project for learning a new stitch. They’re small enough that you can finish one in an evening, so you won’t feel stuck in a long commitment while you’re still figuring things out. If you make a mistake in the first round, you haven’t lost hours of work — you just frog it (ravelry-speak for unraveling) and try again.

But beyond the practical benefit for learning, a jasmine stitch coaster is genuinely beautiful. The texture is rich enough that people notice it sitting on a coffee table. You can make a full set in different colors and they immediately become a statement piece. They also make thoughtful handmade gifts — easy to package, clearly handmade with love, and actually useful.

This crochet along is designed for someone who knows the very basics of crochet (you’ve made a chain, you know what a slip stitch is, you understand how to hold your hook and yarn) but who hasn’t tried the jasmine stitch before. If you’re completely brand new to crochet, you might want to spend an afternoon on basic stitches first, then come back here.

Materials You’ll Need

Before we begin, gather everything together so you’re not hunting for supplies mid-project.

Yarn: A cotton yarn works best for coasters because it’s absorbent, holds its shape well, and stands up to heat. A worsted weight or DK weight cotton gives you a coaster that’s substantial without being overly stiff. Some great options are Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Cotton, or any craft store cotton in your favorite color. You’ll need roughly 30–50 yards per coaster depending on your gauge, so a single skein is more than enough for several.

Hook: Use the hook size recommended on your yarn label, or go down one size for a tighter fabric. For worsted cotton, a 4.5mm or 5mm hook is a common choice. A slightly smaller hook than usual gives you that dense, firm texture that makes coasters actually functional.

Scissors: Any sharp pair will do.

Tapestry needle: For weaving in your ends once you’re done.

Stitch markers: Optional but helpful, especially as a beginner. They help you keep track of where rounds begin and end.

A hard surface: Not a material, but worth mentioning — blocking your finished coaster on a flat surface with a little water gives it a crisp, even shape.

Gauge and Sizing

Gauge matters less for coasters than it does for garments, but it’s worth knowing what to expect. With worsted weight cotton and a 5mm hook, the finished coaster should measure approximately 4 inches in diameter (or 4 x 4 inches if you’re working in a square format). If yours comes out smaller, try going up a hook size. If it’s larger and floppy, try going down a hook size or switching to DK weight.

For this crochet along, we’ll be making a round coaster. Square versions of the jasmine stitch are beautiful too, and once you understand the round method, you can experiment with working in rows instead.

Understanding the Jasmine Stitch Before We Begin

Let’s break down the anatomy of the stitch before we touch our yarn.

The jasmine stitch is made up of two main elements: the loop cluster and the gathering stitch.

The loop cluster involves inserting your hook into a stitch (or space), pulling up a loop, then moving to the next stitch or space and pulling up another loop, repeating this action until you have a set number of loops on your hook — usually five or seven, depending on the pattern. These loops are all just sitting on your hook at the same time, unstretched, relaxed.

The gathering stitch is a single crochet (or sometimes a yarn over and pull through all loops, depending on the variation) that cinches all those loops together at the top and locks them in place. When that stitch closes the cluster, the loops fan out below it into a shape that looks like a little flower petal arrangement.

What gives the jasmine stitch its signature look is that each gathering stitch doesn’t just work into the current row or round — it also reaches back into clusters from previous rows, pulling up loops through those as well. This interlocking is what creates the dense, almost woven texture you see in finished jasmine stitch fabric.

For a coaster, we’ll work a modified version of the jasmine stitch in the round, which means each cluster pulls loops from both the current round and the round before.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

Ch — chain
Sl st — slip stitch
Sc — single crochet
Yo — yarn over
Pull up a loop (PUL) — insert hook, yo, draw up a loop (do not complete the stitch)
Magic ring — adjustable loop starting technique
JS cluster — jasmine stitch cluster (explained in detail below)

Step-by-Step Instructions

Starting Ring

Make a magic ring. If you prefer not to use a magic ring, chain 4 and join with a slip stitch to form a ring.

Round 1

Chain 1 (this does not count as a stitch). Work 8 single crochets into the center of the ring. Join with a slip stitch to the first single crochet. Pull the magic ring closed tight. You should have 8 single crochets in a neat circle. — 8 sts

This round gives you the base for your first jasmine stitch clusters in the next round. Don’t skip it or try to jump ahead — those 8 stitches are your anchor points.

Round 2 — Setting Up the Jasmine Clusters

This is where things get interesting. The pattern in this round creates the first layer of your jasmine stitch texture.

Chain 1. Now work as follows:

Insert your hook into the first stitch of Round 1 and pull up a loop. You now have 2 loops on your hook (the standing loop and the pulled-up loop). Insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop. You now have 3 loops on the hook. Insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up another loop — 4 loops on the hook. Insert your hook one more time into the next stitch and pull up a loop — 5 loops on the hook.

Now yarn over and pull through all 5 loops at once. This cinches the cluster closed. Chain 1 to lock the cluster. This is your first jasmine stitch cluster (JS cluster).

You’ve used 4 stitches from Round 1 to make that cluster.

Now make a single crochet into the next stitch of Round 1. This SC acts as a spacer between clusters — it’s a structural stitch that gives you somewhere to anchor the next round.

Repeat this sequence — one JS cluster (pulling up loops through the next 4 stitches) followed by one SC spacer — until you’ve used all 8 stitches.

Wait — you may notice that 4 stitches per cluster plus 1 SC doesn’t divide evenly into 8. This is correct. For the round coaster format, we’re working the first round with only 2 clusters. As we increase in the following rounds, the stitch count builds. Some patterns handle this by slightly adjusting the number of loops per cluster. Don’t stress about exact symmetry in the first cluster round; what you’re doing is establishing the base texture and your stitch placement will become intuitive quickly.

Join with a slip stitch to close the round. — 2 JS clusters, 2 SC spacers

Round 3

In this round, you begin increasing. Work 2 SC into each SC spacer from the previous round (these are your increase points), and work one standard SC into the top of each JS cluster. This increases your stitch count from 8 to approximately 12–14 stitches and gives you a wider base for the next set of clusters.

Chain 1. SC into the top of the first JS cluster. Work 2 SC into the SC spacer. SC into the top of the next JS cluster. Work 2 SC into the SC spacer. Join with a slip stitch. — approximately 12 sts (count may vary slightly based on your tension)

Round 4 — Full Jasmine Stitch Round

Now you have enough stitches to work full jasmine clusters around the entire round.

Chain 1. Begin pulling up loops as before: insert hook into the first stitch, pull up a loop. Insert into each of the next 4 stitches, pulling up a loop each time (5 loops total on hook). Yarn over, pull through all 5 loops, chain 1 to lock. SC into the next stitch as a spacer.

Continue this pattern — JS cluster, SC spacer — all the way around. The number of clusters will depend on your stitch count, but aim for even spacing. Join with a slip stitch.

Round 5 — Increase Round

Repeat Round 3, working increases at regular intervals to maintain the flat circular shape. Work 2 SC into every other SC spacer (increase), and SC into the rest. This keeps the coaster flat and prevents it from cupping up at the edges.

Round 6 — Jasmine Stitch Round

Repeat Round 4. Work full jasmine clusters all the way around, maintaining the SC spacers between clusters. Your texture is really building up now, and you can see the flower-petal effect clearly across the surface.

Round 7 — Increase Round

Repeat Round 3 or Round 5 increase logic. If your coaster is starting to ruffle slightly at the edges, you’re increasing too much. If it’s cupping, increase a bit more. The goal is a flat, even circle.

Round 8 — Final Jasmine Stitch Round

Work one more full round of jasmine clusters. This is your last texture round and gives the coaster its full, lush surface.

Final Round — Border

For a neat finish, work a single crochet border around the entire edge of the coaster. You can keep it simple — one round of SC all the way around — or make it a little more decorative by working a reverse single crochet (also called a crab stitch), which gives a rope-like twisted edge.

Join with a slip stitch to finish. Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail.

Finishing Your Coaster

Thread your tapestry needle with the yarn tail and weave it carefully through the back side of several stitches, moving in different directions to secure it. Trim the excess. Do the same for your starting tail from the magic ring.

To block your coaster, wet it slightly with cool water, squeeze out the excess (don’t wring it), and lay it flat on a blocking mat or a clean towel. Use your hands to shape it into a circle, smoothing out any uneven spots. Let it dry completely before using it. Blocking makes a remarkable difference in the finished look — it evens out the texture and gives the coaster a professional finish.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

If your coaster is cupping (the edges fold up like a bowl), you need more increases. Add an extra SC increase every few stitches in your increase rounds.

If your coaster is ruffling (the edges wave and won’t lay flat), you have too many increases. Try skipping one of the increase points in the next round.

If your clusters are too loose and floppy, try a smaller hook or a tighter tension when pulling up your loops. The loops should be snug against your hook, not stretched out.

If your jasmine clusters aren’t fanning out into the flower shape, make sure you’re working the gathering stitch correctly — all loops must come off the hook in one movement, not in stages.

Color Ideas and Variations

One of the joys of a small project like a coaster is that it’s an opportunity to experiment with color. A simple monochromatic coaster in a warm terra cotta or dusty sage looks stunning on a wooden table. A set of four in complementary shades — think cream, blush, dusty rose, and burgundy — makes a beautiful coordinated set.

If you want to try colorwork, you can switch colors between rounds. Carry the unused yarn loosely or cut and rejoin with each color change. Jasmine stitch in two alternating colors creates a graphic, almost tile-like effect that’s completely different from the tonal version.

You can also try variegated or self-striping yarn, which does some of the color work for you automatically. The texture of the jasmine stitch shows beautifully in both solid and variegated yarns.

Scaling Up: Using the Jasmine Stitch in Bigger Projects

Now that you’ve made a coaster and understand how the stitch works, you have a foundation for much bigger projects. The jasmine stitch is widely used in boho-style bags, where it creates that thick, structured fabric that keeps its shape when filled. It works beautifully as a pillow cover, where the raised texture adds dimension to a simple square. And of course, a jasmine stitch blanket — worked in rows rather than rounds — is a stunning (if ambitious) project that uses exactly the same mechanics you just learned.

When working in rows, the principle is the same: pull up loops across a set number of stitches, gather with a single crochet or pull-through, and work back across. The staggering of clusters from row to row is what creates the interlocked pattern.

A Few Final Tips

Keep your tension consistent throughout. Jasmine stitch clusters can look uneven if you pull up some loops tighter than others. Try to pull each loop to the same height as you go.

Count your stitches at the end of every round, especially when you’re learning. It’s much easier to catch a mistake one round back than five rounds back.

Don’t rush the increase rounds. A flat coaster requires a little thought about where you place those extra stitches, and taking an extra moment to count and space them evenly pays off in the finished shape.

And most importantly — enjoy the process. The jasmine stitch has a wonderful rhythm once you get going, and there’s something deeply satisfying about watching that texture build up round by round. Each cluster you finish adds another little flower to the fabric, and by the time you’re weaving in your final end, you’ll have something genuinely beautiful to show for an evening’s work.

Happy crocheting!

Save This Pattern for Later

If you made this coaster as part of the crochet along, I’d love to see how it turned out. Share your finished photos, tag your color choices, and let me know in the comments if any steps gave you trouble. Your questions help improve the pattern for future crocheters, and your finished projects are always an inspiration. Whether this is your first time trying the jasmine stitch or your hundredth, every coaster is a little piece of handmade art worth celebrating.