How to Crochet Jasmine Stitch (Rows & Rounds) | Step-by-Step Tutorial

The Jasmine stitch is one of those rare crochet techniques that stops people mid-scroll. Its layered, three-dimensional petals create a texture so lush and intricate that finished projects often get mistaken for professional knitting or even hand-weaving. Yet despite its complex appearance, the Jasmine stitch is completely achievable for intermediate crocheters who are comfortable with basic stitches and ready to try something a little more adventurous.

Whether you want to make a cozy blanket, a stunning bag, a decorative pillow cover, or a warm cowl, this stitch delivers stunning results every single time. In this tutorial, you will learn exactly how to crochet the Jasmine stitch both in rows and in the round, with clear step-by-step instructions, helpful tips, and everything you need to know before casting on your first loop.

What Is the Jasmine Stitch?

The Jasmine stitch, sometimes called the Star Stitch or Catherine Wheel, is a cluster-based crochet technique that creates raised, flower-like medallions across the fabric. Each “jasmine puff” is formed by pulling up a series of loops and drawing yarn through all of them at once, much like a puff stitch but worked across multiple stitches rather than in a single spot.

The result is a thick, textured fabric that has a beautiful reversible quality. Both sides of the finished piece look nearly identical, which makes it perfect for scarves, blankets, and anything where both faces of the fabric will be visible.

It is worth noting that the Jasmine stitch goes by several names depending on the region or the crocheter teaching it. If you have seen patterns labeled “Star Stitch blanket” or “puff cluster stitch,” there is a good chance they are describing a very similar technique. The core construction remains the same: loops pulled up across adjacent stitches, finished with a single chain or slip stitch that closes the petal.

Materials You Will Need

Before diving into the stitch itself, gather your supplies. The Jasmine stitch works up beautifully in a range of yarn weights, though medium weight (category 4) yarn is the most beginner-friendly choice because the stitches are easy to see and manipulate.

Yarn: Medium weight (worsted) yarn in one or two colors. The stitch can be worked in a single color for a subtle, tonal effect, or in two alternating colors to make the petals really pop.

Hook: A crochet hook one size larger than the yarn label recommends. Because the Jasmine stitch pulls yarn through multiple loops at once, using a slightly larger hook prevents the fabric from becoming too tight and difficult to work into.

Scissors and yarn needle: For weaving in ends at the finish.

Stitch markers: Optional, but helpful when working in the round to mark the beginning of each round.

A smooth, plied yarn works better than a fuzzy or novelty yarn for this stitch. You want to be able to see and count each loop clearly, especially while you are learning.

Understanding the Jasmine Stitch Construction

The Jasmine stitch is built around what is called a “jasmine puff” or “star.” Each puff is created by inserting your hook into a stitch or space, pulling up a loop, and repeating that process three, four, or five more times across adjacent stitches before closing all loops together with a single chain stitch.

The chain stitch that closes the puff also serves as the center “eye” of the flower and creates an anchor for the next row or round’s stitches. This chain is important — it defines the overall look and gives the fabric its structure.

There are slight variations in how different patterns instruct you to form the puff. Some use five loops (including the loop already on the hook), some use six. Some work into the tops of stitches, others work partially into the sides. The method described here is one of the most popular and visually striking versions, and once you understand the logic behind it, you will be able to adapt any Jasmine stitch pattern you encounter.

Abbreviations Used in This Tutorial

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
yo — yarn over
insert hook — insert your hook into the specified stitch or space
pull up a loop — insert hook, yarn over, draw yarn back through
jp — jasmine puff (a cluster of 5 loops drawn together and closed with a chain)

How to Crochet the Jasmine Stitch in Rows

Working the Jasmine stitch in rows gives you a flat, rectangular fabric ideal for blankets, scarves, dishcloths, and wall hangings.

Foundation Chain

Start with a foundation chain. The stitch multiple for the Jasmine stitch is typically 4, so your chain should be a multiple of 4 plus any turning chains your pattern requires. For a practice swatch, chain 20 (which gives you a multiple of 4 plus an edge chain).

Row 1 (Foundation Row)

Work a row of single crochet across your chain. This creates a neat base for your first row of Jasmine puffs and makes the beginning edge look clean and even.

Chain 1 and turn your work.

Row 2 (First Jasmine Row)

This is where the magic begins.

Step 1: Insert your hook into the first stitch of the row. Yarn over and pull up a loop. You now have 2 loops on your hook.

Step 2: Without removing your hook or closing the loop, insert your hook into the next stitch to the right (the same stitch you just worked, one strand to the back — some patterns insert into the side of the stitch, but for simplicity, insert into the top of the first stitch again). Yarn over and pull up another loop. You now have 3 loops on your hook.

Actually, let’s walk through the most common version precisely:

Step 1: Insert hook into the first stitch. Yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook).

Step 2: Insert hook into the same stitch again OR into the next stitch (follow your pattern — the most common method uses five different insertion points spanning 2–3 stitches). Yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).

Step 3: Insert hook into the next stitch. Pull up a loop (4 loops on hook).

Step 4: Insert hook into the next stitch. Pull up a loop (5 loops on hook).

Step 5: Insert hook into the next stitch. Pull up a loop (6 loops on hook).

You now have 6 loops on your hook. Yarn over and draw the yarn through all 6 loops at once. This is the trickiest motion — use your fingers to gently hold the loops in place while you pull through. The cluster will cinch together into a tight puff.

Step 6: Chain 1 firmly to close and lock the puff. This chain stitch is the “eye” at the center of the flower.

You have now completed one Jasmine puff. Single crochet into the same closing chain stitch to anchor it and begin the setup for the next puff.

Repeat from Step 1 across the row, sliding over approximately 2 stitches for each new puff to create an overlapping, layered effect. The key to the Jasmine stitch’s texture is that each puff overlaps with its neighbors, sharing at least one insertion point with the previous puff.

At the end of the row, you may end with a single crochet or a half puff depending on your stitch count. Chain 1 and turn.

Row 3 (Plain Row)

Work a row of single crochet across, working one single crochet into each puff eye and one into each single crochet from the previous row. This plain row gives your hands a break and creates the horizontal ridges that separate each layer of puffs.

Chain 1 and turn.

Row 4 (Second Jasmine Row)

Repeat Row 2, offsetting your puffs by 2 stitches from the previous Jasmine row to create the staggered, all-over floral pattern. This offset is what gives the fabric its dense, wall-to-wall texture rather than aligned columns.

Repeat

Continue alternating Row 3 (plain single crochet) and Row 4 (offset Jasmine puffs) until your piece reaches the desired length. Finish with a plain single crochet row for a tidy edge, then fasten off and weave in your ends.

How to Crochet the Jasmine Stitch in the Round

Working the Jasmine stitch in the round opens up an entirely different set of project possibilities: bags, hats, baskets, pouches, and circular motif projects all become achievable.

Starting Ring

Begin with a magic ring or chain 4 and join with a slip stitch to form a small circle.

Round 1

Work 8 single crochet into the ring. Join with a slip stitch to the first single crochet. (8 stitches total)

Round 2 (First Jasmine Round)

Chain 1. Now work Jasmine puffs around the circle, placing one puff every 2 stitches. Because you are working in the round, you will never turn your work — all rounds are worked with the right side facing you.

Work a Jasmine puff as follows:

Insert hook into the current stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop. Insert hook into the following stitch, pull up a loop. You will have 4 loops on your hook (including the original working loop). Yarn over and draw through all 4 loops. Chain 1 to close.

For a circular piece with expanding diameter, you will increase stitches in certain rounds, just as you would in a standard flat circle. The standard rule applies: add 6 to 8 stitches per round to keep the piece flat. On increase rounds, you can work two single crochets into the closing chain eyes of select puffs to add stitches.

Working in the round feels different from rows because there is no turning chain and no need to reverse direction. Many crocheters find that the jasmine puffs look especially symmetrical when worked in the round, because the consistent direction of working creates petals that all face the same way.

Continuing in the Round

After the foundation rounds establish your circle, simply continue working Jasmine puffs around each round, offsetting them by one or two stitches from the previous round’s puffs to maintain that staggered, all-over coverage.

If you are making a cylindrical item like a bag or a basket, work on a foundation chain joined into a ring rather than a flat circle. Work one round of single crochet to establish your base, then begin Jasmine puff rounds, always offsetting from the previous round for the best texture.

Tips for a Perfect Jasmine Stitch

Keep your tension consistent. The Jasmine stitch is sensitive to tension changes. If some puffs are tighter than others, the fabric will look uneven. Take your time, especially when pulling through all loops at once.

Use stitch markers liberally. Marking the beginning of each round or the position of your first puff in a row will save you from losing count. The Jasmine stitch punishes miscounts harshly — a misaligned puff in row 4 can make the whole swatch look lopsided.

Go up a hook size. This advice is worth repeating. A hook that is 0.5 mm to 1 mm larger than your yarn label suggests will make pulling through all those loops significantly easier and will give your puffs more volume and height.

Practice on a small swatch first. Even if you are an experienced crocheter, crochet a 4×4 inch swatch before starting your actual project. The Jasmine stitch has its own rhythm, and a few rows of practice will help you find it before committing to a full blanket.

Count your puff eyes. After each Jasmine row, count the number of puff eyes (the chain stitches at the center of each puff). This number should remain consistent across every Jasmine row. If you gain or lose a puff, you will be able to catch it early before it throws off the whole piece.

Block your finished piece. Like most textured crochet stitches, the Jasmine stitch blooms beautifully after wet blocking. Soak your finished project in cool water, gently squeeze out the excess moisture, lay it flat, and ease the stitches open with your fingers. You will be amazed at how much more dimensional and defined the puffs look after blocking.

Choosing Colors for the Jasmine Stitch

One of the great joys of this stitch is how color interacts with the three-dimensional texture. A single solid color lets the puff structure speak for itself and gives a sophisticated, tonal look. Two contrasting colors — worked by alternating yarn every two rows — make each petal stand out dramatically and create a graphic, modern aesthetic.

Gradient or ombre yarn is another inspired choice for the Jasmine stitch. As the color shifts, each row of puffs takes on a slightly different hue, and the layered, overlapping nature of the stitch creates unexpected color blending in the fabric. Self-striping yarn in a medium weight is particularly well-suited to this technique.

If you plan to work in two colors, carry the unused color loosely up the side of your work rather than cutting and rejoining at every stripe. This reduces the number of ends you need to weave in and keeps the edge neat.

Project Ideas for the Jasmine Stitch

Once you have mastered the basic technique, the possibilities are genuinely exciting.

A Jasmine stitch blanket is probably the most popular project, and for good reason. The thick, layered fabric is incredibly cozy, and the all-over texture means there are no boring stretches of plain stitching to push through. Use a super bulky yarn and a large hook for a quick weekend project, or invest in a fine-weight yarn for an heirloom piece that will last for generations.

A market bag worked in the round is a wonderful second project. The open construction of the Jasmine stitch allows just enough give to be practical while the puff texture makes the bag look beautifully handcrafted.

Throw pillow covers are another natural fit. The reversible nature of the stitch means both sides of your pillow cover will look intentional and polished. Work two flat panels in the Jasmine stitch and seam them together around a pillow insert.

Cowls and infinity scarves worked in the round showcase the stitch’s circular versatility. A simple tube of Jasmine stitch in a luxurious yarn — merino, alpaca, or a cashmere blend — makes a gorgeous winter accessory that looks far more complicated than it is.

Common Mistakes and How to Fix Them

The puffs are not closing neatly. This usually means your yarn-over when drawing through all loops is not firm enough. Make sure you are drawing the yarn all the way through in one smooth motion rather than in stages.

The fabric is curling. Curling at the edges is common with any dense stitch and does not necessarily mean anything is wrong. Block the finished piece or add a border of single crochet around the edge to counteract the curl.

The stitch count is off at the end of a row. Check that you are working into the closing chain eye of each puff and that you have not accidentally skipped a puff eye or worked into the body of a puff instead.

The puffs look flat rather than dimensional. This is almost always a tension issue combined with a hook that is too small. Try loosening your tension and going up one hook size.

Final Thoughts

The Jasmine stitch rewards patience. Your first few puffs will feel awkward and slow, and you may need to consult these instructions several times before the rhythm becomes instinctive. But somewhere between the fifth and tenth puff, something clicks. The loops start sitting naturally on your hook, the closing chain feels effortless, and before long you are moving through the stitch with a quiet, meditative flow that is one of crochet’s most satisfying experiences.

The finished fabric is truly something special — thick, plush, deeply textured, and absolutely unlike anything produced by simpler stitches. Projects made with the Jasmine stitch have a handmade quality that is unmistakable, the kind that makes people pause and ask, “Wait, you made that yourself?”

Yes. You did. And now you know exactly how.