How to Crochet a Daisy: Easy Amigurumi Tutorial for Beginners

If you’ve ever scrolled through crafting feeds and spotted the most adorable little crocheted flowers tucked into bouquets, perched on headbands, or arranged in tiny vases on a shelf, you’ve probably thought to yourself: I want to make that. The good news is that you absolutely can. Crocheting a daisy — especially in the amigurumi style — is one of the most beginner-friendly projects you’ll find in the entire world of yarn crafts. It’s small, it works up quickly, it requires only a few basic stitches, and the result is genuinely charming. By the end of this tutorial, you’ll have a soft, dimensional, petal-perfect daisy that looks like it was plucked straight from a summer meadow.

Whether you’re brand new to crochet or you’ve made a few scarves and you’re ready to try something three-dimensional, this guide will walk you through every step in plain, approachable language. No pattern shorthand overload, no assumptions that you already know what you’re doing — just clear instructions, helpful tips, and a little encouragement along the way.

What Is Amigurumi?

Before we dive into the actual crochet, let’s take a moment to talk about amigurumi, because it shapes how this entire daisy is constructed. Amigurumi is a Japanese craft tradition — the word combines “ami” (knitted or crocheted) and “nuigurumi” (stuffed doll) — that involves creating small, stuffed figures using primarily single crochet stitches worked in continuous rounds. The style is known for its rounded, three-dimensional shapes, its satisfying density (which gives amigurumi pieces that firmness and plush quality), and its almost universal cuteness.

What makes amigurumi different from flat crochet is that instead of working in rows or flat circles, you almost always work in a spiral — meaning you never join your rounds with a slip stitch the way you might in other patterns. This creates a seamless, tube-like surface that holds its shape beautifully after stuffing. For a daisy, we’ll use this technique for the center button of the flower, and then attach petals around it.

If this is your very first amigurumi project, a daisy is a perfect starting point because it’s flat enough that you don’t have to worry too much about stuffing techniques or attaching multiple limbs, and the construction is straightforward and forgiving.

Materials You’ll Need

You don’t need much to get started, which is another reason this project is so great for beginners. Here’s what to gather before you sit down to crochet.

Yarn: Choose a light worsted weight (also called Category 4) or DK weight yarn in white or cream for the petals and yellow for the center. You won’t need much — even leftover yarn from other projects works perfectly for something this small. Cotton yarn gives a crisp, clean finish that really suits flowers. Acrylic works well too and is very forgiving for beginners.

Crochet Hook: A 3.5mm or 4mm hook is ideal for worsted weight cotton, and it will give you a tight enough gauge to keep the stuffing inside without gaps showing through. If you’re using DK weight, try a 3mm hook.

Polyester Fiberfill: Just a small pinch of stuffing to fill the center of the daisy and give it that satisfying plumpness.

Stitch Marker: A simple plastic stitch marker (or even a piece of contrasting yarn tied in a loop) to mark the beginning of each round. This is especially important in amigurumi since you work in spirals and need to track where each round starts.

Yarn Needle: A blunt tapestry needle to weave in ends and to sew the pieces together.

Scissors: Any pair will do.

Optional: Wire floral stems if you’d like to make a poseable bouquet, felt backing if you’d like to turn your daisy into a brooch, or safety eyes if you want to give your daisy a face.

Crochet Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

Here’s a quick reference for the terms used throughout this tutorial. If you’re already comfortable with these, feel free to skip ahead.

MR — Magic Ring (also called Magic Circle). A technique for starting rounds without a visible hole in the center.

CH — Chain stitch.

SC — Single crochet.

INC — Increase. Work two single crochets into the same stitch.

SL ST — Slip stitch. Used to join rounds or to move yarn without adding height.

FO — Fasten off. Cut your yarn and pull the tail through the last loop to secure.

ST(S) — Stitch or stitches.

How to Make a Magic Ring

If you’ve never made a magic ring before, take a few minutes to practice this before you begin the pattern. Nearly every amigurumi project starts with one, and once you get the hang of it, it becomes second nature.

To make a magic ring, drape your yarn over your fingers so the tail hangs to the left and the working yarn (connected to the ball) goes to the right. Loop the tail end over to create a circle on your fingers, then insert your hook through the circle from front to back, catch the working yarn, and pull up a loop. Chain one to lock it in place. Now you can work stitches directly into the ring. When you’ve worked the required number of stitches, gently pull the tail to close the ring tight. The magic ring gives you a perfectly closed, adjustable center with no hole.

Part One: Crocheting the Daisy Center

The center of the daisy is a small, slightly domed disc worked in yellow yarn. This is the classic amigurumi construction — a flat circle that gets just enough stuffing to puff up slightly.

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 SC into the ring, then pull the ring closed. Place your stitch marker in the last stitch you made. (6 stitches)

Round 2: Work 2 SC (INC) in each stitch around. Move your stitch marker as you complete the round. (12 stitches)

Round 3: SC in next stitch, INC in next stitch — repeat this sequence all the way around. (18 stitches)

Round 4: SC in next 2 stitches, INC in next stitch — repeat all the way around. (24 stitches)

At this point you should have a flat, even circle approximately 3–4 centimeters in diameter. If your circle is cupping upward rather than lying flat, your tension may be too tight — try loosening up your grip slightly or going up half a hook size.

Round 5: Work one round of SC in each stitch around without any increases. (24 stitches) This is called a straight round, and it starts to create the slight wall that gives the center its dome shape.

Round 6: SC in next 2 stitches, SC2TOG (decrease) in next 2 stitches — repeat all the way around. (18 stitches)

Before you continue with the decreases, this is the moment to add your stuffing. Pull a small tuft of polyester fiberfill apart with your fingers to fluff it up, then tuck it into the center piece. You want just enough to give the disc a gentle, plump dome shape — not so much that it strains the yarn and creates gaps.

Round 7: SC in next stitch, SC2TOG — repeat all the way around. (12 stitches)

Round 8: SC2TOG all the way around. (6 stitches)

Cut your yarn, leaving a tail about 15 centimeters long. Thread the tail onto your yarn needle, then run the needle through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close. Weave the tail through a few stitches to secure it, but don’t cut it yet — you may want to use it later when attaching petals or positioning things.

Set your yellow center aside and pick up your white or cream yarn for the petals.

Part Two: Crocheting the Petals

Here’s where the daisy really comes to life. The petals are worked flat, not in the round, and each one is made individually before being attached to the center. A classic daisy has between eight and twelve petals — for this tutorial, we’ll make ten, which gives a full, balanced look without being overwhelming.

Each petal uses the same simple construction. You’ll be making a small oblong shape using chain stitches and single crochets worked along both sides of a foundation chain.

For each petal:

Start with a slip knot and chain 8.

Row 1: Beginning in the second chain from the hook, SC in each chain across. (7 SC)

At the end of this row, do not turn. Instead, work one SC into the very last chain (the one you already have a stitch in — this creates a rounded tip), then continue working SC stitches along the other side of the foundation chain back toward where you started. You’ll have 7 SC along the second side, plus one more SC into the first chain to close the oval shape. Slip stitch to join if needed, then fasten off, leaving a tail for attaching.

This creates a small, oval-shaped petal about 2–2.5 centimeters long. Make ten of these in your white or cream yarn.

If your petals are curling, try blocking them by dampening them lightly and pinning them flat on a foam mat or folded towel until they dry. Cotton yarn in particular responds beautifully to blocking.

Part Three: Assembling the Daisy

Now comes the deeply satisfying part: putting everything together.

Lay your yellow center on a flat surface and arrange your petals around it, spacing them evenly in a circle like the rays of a sun. Take a moment to adjust and play with the arrangement before you sew anything down. With ten petals, you want them evenly distributed — roughly 36 degrees apart, though of course you don’t need to measure this precisely. Just eyeball it until it looks balanced and pretty to you.

Thread your yarn needle with a length of yellow yarn and begin attaching the petals one by one to the underside of the yellow center. Sew through the base of each petal and catch a stitch from the back of the center disc. Knot securely and weave in the ends. As you work your way around, keep pausing to check the overall spacing.

Some crocheters prefer to arrange all petals at once and sew them all with one continuous length of yarn, catching each petal base and traveling along the back of the center between them. Either method works — choose whichever feels more comfortable to you.

Once all ten petals are attached, take a look at your daisy from the front. The petals should fan out evenly, and the yellow center should sit right on top of them, slightly raised because of the stuffing. If any petals feel loose, go back and add an extra stitch or two.

Tips for Making Your Daisy Look Its Best

The difference between a daisy that looks a little lumpy and one that looks polished often comes down to a few small habits. Here are some things worth keeping in mind.

Tension matters a lot in amigurumi. If your stitches are too loose, the stuffing will show through and the piece will look sloppy. If they’re too tight, your project will be stiff and difficult to work with. Aim for a consistent, firm tension — snug enough that you can’t see through the fabric, but relaxed enough that the hook moves easily.

Weave in all ends carefully. Loose tails have a way of working themselves out over time, especially with cotton yarn. Thread each tail onto your yarn needle and weave it through at least 4–5 stitches in different directions before trimming.

Don’t overstuff the center. This is one of the most common beginner mistakes in amigurumi. A small pinch of stuffing goes a long way. You want a gentle dome, not a hard ball.

Work in good lighting. Especially when counting stitches in light-colored yarns like white or cream, good lighting makes a real difference in avoiding miscounts.

Ways to Use Your Crocheted Daisy

Once you’ve made one daisy, you’ll almost certainly want to make more — they’re that quick and that satisfying. And the good news is there’s no shortage of ways to use them.

A simple cluster of three or five daisies in a small glass jar makes a cheerful, everlasting bouquet that requires zero watering. Attach a pin back to one daisy and you have a sweet brooch. Sew several onto a headband base for a flower crown that children (and honestly, adults) absolutely love. Use them as embellishments on tote bags, hats, or baby blankets. Tie one onto a gift as a reusable decoration. String several together on a garland for party decor or nursery wall art.

If you want to make your daisies into a bouquet, you can hot glue or wire-wrap each one to a floral wire stem, then wrap the stem in green floral tape. Arrange them in a jar with some sprigs of dried baby’s breath and you have a handmade centerpiece that lasts forever.

Variations to Try Once You’re Comfortable

Once you’ve mastered the basic daisy, there’s a whole world of variations to explore. Try making the center in a deep brown or burgundy for a black-eyed Susan effect. Experiment with lavender petals for a daisy that has a dreamier, more whimsical feel. Try working the petals in a slightly larger hook size to get a more relaxed, floppy silhouette. Use variegated yarn for petals that shift subtly in color. Scale the whole pattern up using bulkier yarn and a larger hook for a statement-sized bloom, or scale it down with fingering weight and a 2mm hook for the most delicate miniature daisies imaginable.

You can also experiment with petal count and shape. Longer foundation chains produce more elongated petals. Adding a few extra rounds to the center creates a chunkier, more bee balm-style center. Playing with these variables is where amigurumi starts to feel less like following instructions and more like genuine design.

A Note for Absolute Beginners

If this is your very first crochet project and some of these instructions feel confusing, please don’t feel discouraged. Crochet is genuinely one of those skills where everything clicks after a little practice time. If you find yourself confused by the magic ring, try starting with a simple chain loop instead — just chain 4 and slip stitch to form a ring, then work your stitches into the center of that. It leaves a slightly larger hole in the middle, but for a beginner it’s much less frustrating.

Video tutorials are also an incredibly helpful complement to written patterns. Watching someone’s hands as they form a stitch can clarify in seconds what several paragraphs of text still leaves murky. Look up “magic ring tutorial” or “how to single crochet” on any major video platform and you’ll find dozens of excellent slow-motion explanations.

Above all, be patient with yourself. Every experienced crocheter started out tangled in yarn with a hook they weren’t sure which way to hold. The daisy you make today might not be perfect, and that’s completely fine. The one you make next week will be better, and the one after that will be better still.

Final Thoughts

Crocheting a daisy in the amigurumi style is one of those projects that delivers a disproportionately large amount of joy for the effort involved. It’s small enough to carry in your bag and work on in spare moments, it uses up yarn scraps you might otherwise never touch, and the finished result is genuinely delightful — the kind of tiny handmade thing that makes people stop and say, “Did you make that?” with real surprise and admiration.

Whether you’re making one for yourself, as a gift, or as the first of what will surely become a large collection of little crocheted flowers, you’ve picked a wonderful project to start with. Gather your yarn, get your hook, and enjoy every stitch. The daisy has been waiting for you.