How to Crochet a Camellia Granny Square – Free Pattern

Few things in the crochet world feel as satisfying as finishing a granny square that looks far more complicated than it actually is. The camellia granny square is exactly that kind of project — a layered floral design that gives you lush, dimensional petals radiating from a raised center, all framed by the classic granny square structure you already know and love. Whether you are building a floral blanket, designing a tote bag, or simply adding to your square sampler collection, this pattern is one you will reach for again and again.

This free pattern is written for confident beginners and intermediate crocheters. If you can chain, single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet, and slip stitch, you have everything you need. The dimensional petal effect is achieved through simple front post and back post techniques, which sound intimidating but become second nature after the first few rounds.

Let’s walk through everything from your materials list all the way to finishing and blocking, with detailed stitch instructions along the way.

What Is a Camellia Granny Square?

The camellia is a flowering plant native to eastern and southern Asia, known for its full, layered blooms that stack petal over petal in a rose-like arrangement. Translating that into a crochet square means working multiple rounds of petals at different heights so that when the square is complete, you can actually lift the outer petals to see the inner ones beneath them — a gorgeous effect that photographs beautifully and impresses everyone who sees your finished work.

Unlike a standard granny square, which is worked in single flat rounds of shells and chains, the camellia granny square uses post stitches to create layers. You essentially work around the posts of stitches from earlier rounds, which holds one petal layer below while the new layer sits on top. The result is a three-dimensional flower sitting inside a traditional square border.

Materials You Will Need

Before you cast on (or, more accurately, make your foundation chain), gather these supplies:

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn, approximately 30–50 yards per color depending on your square size. You will need three colors: one for the center (Color A), one or two for the petals (Color B and optionally Color C), and one for the outer border (Color D). A smooth, tightly twisted yarn shows the stitch definition best. Cotton blends and acrylic both work beautifully.

Hook: A US size H/8 (5.0mm) crochet hook is recommended for worsted weight yarn. Adjust as needed to match your gauge.

Tapestry needle: For weaving in ends.

Scissors

Stitch markers: Optional but helpful when you are first learning the post stitch rounds.

Blocking board and pins: Recommended for finishing.

Gauge: The finished square should measure approximately 6 inches by 6 inches blocked. Gauge is not critical for this project unless you are joining many squares into a larger piece that needs consistent sizing.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble crochet
FPdc — front post double crochet
BPdc — back post double crochet
FPtr — front post treble crochet
sp — space
rep — repeat
st(s) — stitch(es)
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
[ ] — work instructions within brackets the number of times indicated

Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, [yarn over and pull through 2 loops] twice.

Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): Yarn over, insert hook from back to front to back around the post of the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, [yarn over and pull through 2 loops] twice.

Front Post Treble Crochet (FPtr): Yarn over twice, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the indicated stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop, [yarn over and pull through 2 loops] 3 times.

Pattern Notes

All rounds are worked on the right side unless otherwise noted. Do not turn between rounds.

When you work the post stitch rounds for the petals, you will skip the stitches in the current round that sit directly above where you are inserting your hook. This is what creates the layered effect — the current round’s stitches get pushed to the back, and your post stitches bring the earlier round forward.

Joining at the end of each round is done with a slip stitch into the top of the beginning chain or the first stitch of that round. Pull your joins snug but not tight; you want the fabric to lie flat.

When switching colors, make the final yarn over of the last stitch of the old color with the new color. Carry ends along the inside or simply cut and weave them in as you go.

The Pattern

Round 1 — Center (Color A)

Make a magic ring (or ch 4 and join with a sl st to form a ring).

Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch here and throughout unless specified). Work 8 hdc into the ring. Join with a sl st to first hdc. Pull magic ring tail to close the center. You have 8 hdc.

Fasten off Color A, leaving a 6-inch tail for weaving in.

The center should be a small, tight ring. If it gaps at all, pull the magic ring tail more firmly before securing it.

Round 2 — Inner Petal Foundation (Color B)

Join Color B with a sl st to any hdc from Round 1.

Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each hdc around. Join with sl st to first sc. You have 16 sc.

Do not fasten off. Continue to Round 3.

Round 3 — Inner Petals (Color B)

This round forms the first, innermost layer of petals. You will work into the sc stitches from Round 2.

Ch 1. [sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc] all in the next sc, sl st in the next sc — repeat from to around until all 16 sc are worked. You will complete 8 small petals total.

Join with a sl st to the first sc of this round.

Fasten off Color B.

Now look at your work. You should have 8 little petals arranged in a ring, creating a neat inner flower. Set them aside mentally — you are about to work behind them.

Round 4 — Middle Petal Foundation (Color B or Color C)

Join your next color (Color B again for a tonal look, or Color C for contrast) with a sl st around the post of any sc from Round 2 — specifically, you are inserting your hook around the post of the slip stitch join between petals. You are going behind the Round 3 petals.

Ch 1. Work 1 sc around the post of each sl st between petals from Round 3. There were 8 sl sts, so you now have 8 sc evenly placed behind the petals of Round 3.

Then work 2 sc into each of these 8 sc. You now have 16 sc.

Join with a sl st to the first sc. Do not fasten off.

Round 5 — Middle Petals

Ch 1. [sc, hdc, dc, tr, dc, hdc, sc] all in the next sc, sl st in the next sc — repeat from to around. You will work 8 larger petals.

Join with a sl st to first sc of this round.

Fasten off.

The middle petals are taller than the inner petals thanks to the treble crochet at the peak. They should fan out slightly over the inner petals, creating the first real sense of dimension in your square.

Round 6 — Outer Petal Foundation (Color C or Color B)

Insert your hook from the front, reaching behind all the petals to find the sl sts between the petals of Round 5.

Join yarn with a sl st around the post of one of those sl sts.

Ch 1. Work 1 sc around the post of each of the 8 sl sts between petals. You have 8 sc.

Work 2 sc in each of these 8 sc. You have 16 sc.

Join with a sl st to first sc. Do not fasten off.

Round 7 — Outer Petals

Ch 1. [sc, hdc, dc, tr, tr, dc, hdc, sc] all in the next sc, sl st in the next sc — repeat from to around. You will form 8 large, full-bodied petals.

Join with sl st to first sc of this round.

Fasten off.

Step back and take a look at your flower. You now have three concentric layers of 8 petals each, the outermost being the largest. The camellia should look lush and dimensional. From this point on, you are building the traditional granny square frame around the flower.

Round 8 — Transition Round (Color D)

This round bridges the round flower into the square shape. You will still be working into the sl sts between the outer petals, but you will begin shaping the square by distributing stitches unevenly to create four corner groups and four side sections.

Join Color D with a sl st around the post of any sl st between outer petals.

Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Work 2 dc around the same sl st post. Ch 2. Work 3 dc around the same sl st post. This is your first corner.

Ch 1. Work 3 dc around the next sl st post. Ch 1. Work 3 dc around the next sl st post. Ch 2. Work 3 dc around the same sl st post. — This completes one side and one corner.

Repeat from to two more times.

Ch 1. Work 3 dc around the next sl st post. Ch 1.

Join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.

You should have 4 corners marked by ch-2 spaces and 4 sides with two groups of 3 dc separated by ch-1 spaces.

Round 9 — First Border Round (Color D)

Sl st into next 2 dc and into the ch-2 corner space.

Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Work 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc — all into the same corner ch-2 space. This is the first corner shell.

Ch 1. Work 3 dc into the ch-1 space on the side. Ch 1. Work 3 dc into the next ch-1 space on the side. Ch 1. Work [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] into the corner ch-2 space. — Repeat from to two more times.

Ch 1. Work 3 dc into the ch-1 space. Ch 1. Work 3 dc into the next ch-1 space. Ch 1.

Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.

Round 10 — Second Border Round (Color D)

Sl st into next 2 dc and into the ch-2 corner space.

Ch 3 (counts as first dc). Work 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc — all into the corner ch-2 space.

[Ch 1. Work 3 dc into the next ch-1 space] — repeat across the side until you reach the next corner. Ch 1. Work [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc] into the corner ch-2 space. — Repeat from to around.

Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3.

Fasten off Color D and weave in all ends.

Finishing Your Camellia Granny Square

Once all rounds are complete and ends are woven in, your square benefits enormously from blocking. Wet blocking is ideal for cotton or cotton blends — soak the square in cool water for 20 minutes, press out the water gently in a towel, then pin it to your blocking board, easing the corners into right angles and gently pulling each side to match your target measurement. Allow it to dry completely before unpinning.

For acrylic yarn, steam blocking works beautifully. Hold your steam iron a few inches above the square and hover it slowly over the surface. Do not press the iron down onto the fabric. The steam relaxes the fibers and allows the petals to settle into their final position. The dimensional elements of the camellia actually benefit from this — the petals bloom open slightly when lightly steamed.

Once blocked, take a moment to lift the outer petals and arrange the inner layers. A light finger press is all it takes to separate and display each layer distinctly. This is part of the magic of the camellia square: you can adjust and fluff the petals just like a real flower.

Tips for Making a Camellia Granny Square Blanket

If you plan to join multiple camellia squares into a blanket, here are a few things to keep in mind.

Consistency matters more than perfection. As long as each square measures the same after blocking, the joins will lie flat. Crochet all squares using the same hook and yarn brand, and block them all before joining.

The join-as-you-go method works well for this square. You can incorporate it into the final round of the border by slip stitching into the corresponding corner or side space of the previous square instead of chaining. This eliminates the need for seaming afterward.

For a flat seam join that maintains the three-dimensional nature of the flower, a whip stitch through the back loops of the outer edge works perfectly. Hold the two squares with wrong sides together and stitch through the outermost loops only, creating a small visible ridge on one side that can be made to face the back of the finished piece.

Consider your color palette. The camellia square looks striking in a monochromatic palette — different values of a single color, like blush, rose, and burgundy — but it is equally beautiful in bold contrast, such as white petals against a deep navy or forest green border. If you are making many squares, you can also rotate your petal colors from square to square across the blanket for a garden-style effect.

Variations to Try

Once you are comfortable with the basic pattern, there are wonderful ways to expand on it.

You can add a fourth petal layer for an even fuller camellia. Simply insert your hook behind the outermost petals after Round 7 and repeat Rounds 6 and 7 with an extra chain or two on each petal to give the new layer height above the previous ones.

You can also change the petal shape in the border petals. Replacing the treble crochets in Round 7 with double treble crochets creates noticeably longer petals that drape over the border almost like a clematis or hibiscus bloom.

For a simpler, flatter version suitable for beginners who are still learning post stitches, omit Rounds 6 and 7 entirely and proceed directly to the square border after Round 5. You still get a lovely layered two-tier flower, and the square works up very quickly.

How to Use Your Camellia Granny Squares

Blankets and afghans are the obvious choice, but camellia squares have a life beyond the throw draped over your couch. A single square stretched over an embroidery hoop makes a stunning piece of fiber art for a nursery or living room wall. A row of squares joined end to end becomes a table runner. Four squares joined into a 2×2 grid, with a zipper or button band added, become a cushion cover. The square’s dimensional center also makes it an ideal candidate for appliqué — seam one onto a canvas tote bag or stitch it to the front of a knitted hat as a decorative accent.

If you are working through a temperature blanket or a square-of-the-month project, this is a beautiful choice for a featured month — it photographs well regardless of season and holds its own visually against simpler squares in the collection.

Final Thoughts

The camellia granny square is one of those patterns that feels like a genuine discovery the first time you make it. You start with a simple center ring, work a few rounds of petals, and then reach behind your own work to build the next layer — and suddenly you understand why dimensional crochet has such a devoted following. There is something deeply satisfying about the way the petals lift and separate, about the way a flat circle of yarn becomes something that looks genuinely botanical.

Whether you are making one square to frame or a hundred squares for a full-size blanket, the process is meditative, the result is