[Free Pattern] Flower Crochet Coasters: Chrysanthemum

There is something deeply satisfying about transforming a simple skein of yarn into something both beautiful and useful. Crochet has that rare quality of being meditative in process and rewarding in result, and few projects capture that feeling quite as well as a set of flower coasters. Today I am sharing a free crochet pattern for chrysanthemum flower coasters — a project that works up quickly, makes a lovely gift, and adds a cheerful, handmade touch to any table.

Whether you are a seasoned crocheter looking for a quick weekend project or a beginner wanting to practice working in the round, this pattern is designed to be approachable and enjoyable. Chrysanthemums are one of my favorite flowers to interpret in crochet because their layered petals create a stunning three-dimensional effect that looks far more complex than it actually is. Once you crochet your first one, I promise you will want to make an entire bouquet’s worth.

Let’s dive in.

Why Crochet Coasters?

Before we get to the pattern itself, let’s talk about why crochet coasters deserve a spot on your project list. They are small enough to finish in an afternoon, use minimal yarn (which makes them perfect for using up scraps), and are genuinely practical. A handmade coaster is one of those items that instantly elevates the look of a coffee table or side table without requiring a major investment of time or materials.

Flower-shaped coasters take things a step further. Rather than sitting quietly in the background, they become a little decorative accent in their own right. When a guest sets their mug on a chrysanthemum coaster, they notice it. They ask about it. And that opens the door to all the best conversations about craft.

Coasters also make wonderful gifts. A set of four or six can be tucked into a hostess gift basket, paired with a nice tea tin, or wrapped up simply in tissue paper for a birthday or housewarming. Because they are quick to make, you can crochet a full set in a single weekend without burning yourself out.

About the Chrysanthemum Design

The chrysanthemum has been a beloved symbol in art and craft for centuries, particularly in Japanese and Chinese traditions where it represents longevity, joy, and resilience. Its densely layered petals — sometimes numbering in the dozens on a single bloom — make it one of the most visually complex flowers in nature, which is part of what makes it so interesting to recreate in fiber.

In this crochet pattern, the chrysanthemum effect is achieved through multiple rounds of petals worked at slightly different heights and angles, creating that characteristic layered fullness. The center is worked first in a contrasting or coordinating color, and each successive round of petals fans outward from there. The finished coaster has a slightly textured, dimensional quality that photographs beautifully and feels lovely under a mug.

You can make these coasters as color-accurate as you like — golden yellows, deep burgundies, soft pinks, or pure white all look stunning — or you can lean into the abstract and use whatever cotton scraps you have on hand. There are no wrong choices here.

Materials You Will Need

To make one chrysanthemum crochet coaster, you will need the following:

Yarn: Worsted weight cotton yarn works best for coasters because it is durable, absorbent, and holds its shape well. You will need approximately 20–25 yards for the main petal color (Color A) and 10–15 yards for the center color (Color B). This is a perfect scrap yarn project.

Hook: A 4.0mm or 4.5mm crochet hook. Cotton yarn can feel stiffer than acrylic, so go up a half size from your usual preference if needed. You want a fabric that is firm and flat rather than floppy.

Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and stitch markers if you find them helpful when working in the round.

Optional: A small piece of non-slip shelf liner cut to match the finished coaster can be sewn or glued to the back to keep it from sliding. This is a nice finishing touch, especially on smooth surfaces like glass or lacquered wood.

Gauge

Gauge is not critical for this project, but for reference, the finished coaster should measure approximately 4.5 to 5 inches across when worked with worsted weight cotton and a 4.0mm hook. If your coaster is coming out larger, try a smaller hook. If it is too small, go up a size.

Abbreviations

This pattern uses US crochet terminology.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble (triple) crochet
sp — space
st — stitch
rep — repeat
BLO — back loop only
MR — magic ring (also called magic circle)

Pattern Notes

Working in the round is essential to this design. Each round is joined with a slip stitch and begins with a turning chain as noted. Do not turn your work between rounds unless the pattern specifically says to do so.

The layered petal effect is created by working some rounds into the back loops only, or by working petals over the top of previous rounds, which allows earlier rounds to sit beneath and peek through. This is one of the techniques that gives the chrysanthemum its characteristic depth.

Color changes happen at the join point between rounds. When switching colors, complete the last stitch of the previous round up to the final yarn over, then pull through with the new color.

If you are new to the magic ring, you can substitute a starting chain of 4 joined into a ring with a slip stitch. The magic ring gives a tighter, neater center, but both methods work fine.

The Free Pattern

Round 1 — Center (Color B)

Make a magic ring.

Chain 1. Work 8 single crochets into the ring. Pull the magic ring closed. Join to the first sc with a slip stitch. (8 sc)

Round 2 — Center Continues (Color B)

Chain 1. Work 2 single crochets into each stitch around. Join with a slip stitch. (16 sc)

Round 3 — First Petal Layer (Color A)

Switch to Color A if you are using two colors.

Chain 1. Working in the back loops only, single crochet in the first stitch, then work the following petal sequence into the next stitch: chain 3, double crochet, double crochet, chain 3, slip stitch into the same stitch. That completes one petal.

Now single crochet into the next stitch, and repeat the petal sequence into the following stitch. Continue this pattern — one sc, then one petal — all the way around. You will complete 8 petals total. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc. (8 petals)

Each petal is formed by: chain 3, 2 dc into the same stitch, chain 3, slip stitch back into the same stitch.

Round 4 — Bridge Round (Color A or Color B)

This round creates a foundation for the second layer of petals. Working now into the front loops that were left unworked in Round 3 (the front loops of Round 2’s stitches), join your yarn and chain 1.

Work 1 single crochet into each front loop around. Join with a slip stitch. (16 sc)

You should now see the first layer of petals sitting on top of this round, fanning outward. This is exactly what you want.

Round 5 — Increase Round (Color A)

Chain 1. Work as follows all the way around: 1 sc in the first stitch, 2 sc in the next stitch. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a slip stitch. (24 sc)

Round 6 — Second Petal Layer (Color A)

Chain 1. Working in back loops only, work the following all the way around: 1 sc into the next stitch, then into the following stitch work a full petal as follows — chain 3, 1 treble crochet, 1 double crochet, chain 3, slip stitch into same stitch. Then 1 sc into the next stitch, work another petal into the following stitch, and continue this pattern around.

You will complete 12 petals this round. The longer stitches (treble and double crochet) make these petals slightly taller than the first layer, which contributes to the layered chrysanthemum look. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc. (12 petals)

Round 7 — Bridge Round

Again, join into the front loops left unworked in Round 6.

Chain 1. Work 1 sc into each unworked front loop around. Join with a slip stitch. (24 sc)

Round 8 — Outer Increase Round (Color A)

Chain 1. Work as follows: 1 sc in each of the first 2 stitches, 2 sc in the next stitch. Repeat to the end of the round. Join with a slip stitch. (32 sc)

Round 9 — Third Petal Layer (Color A)

This is the outermost and largest petal layer, which will give the coaster its final fullness and diameter.

Chain 1. Working in back loops only, work as follows: 1 sc into the next stitch, then into the following stitch work a petal — chain 3, 2 treble crochets, 1 double crochet, chain 3, slip stitch into same stitch. Continue the pattern of 1 sc, 1 petal all the way around.

You will complete 16 petals this round. Join with a slip stitch. (16 petals)

Round 10 — Final Bridge and Edging (Color A or Color B)

Join into the remaining front loops from Round 9.

Chain 1. Work 1 sc into each front loop around. Then, to neaten the edge, work a final round of slip stitches all the way around the outer edge of the petal layer, gently tacking down any petals that want to curl upward.

Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Finishing Your Coaster

Once you have woven in your ends, take a moment to arrange the petals with your fingers. Gently press each layer outward and downward so the three tiers are clearly visible and the coaster lies flat. If any petals are sitting at an odd angle, a few quick stitches with your yarn needle and a length of matching yarn can tack them into place from the back.

If you would like to block your coaster — and for cotton, wet blocking is particularly effective — simply soak it in cool water for a few minutes, gently squeeze out the excess water, and pin it to a blocking board or a folded towel in its final shape. Allow it to dry fully before using. Blocking helps the petals open up beautifully and gives the whole piece a more polished, even look.

Color Suggestions and Variations

One of the most enjoyable things about this pattern is how dramatically different it looks depending on your color choices. Here are a few combinations I love:

Classic Yellow Chrysanthemum: Use a deep golden yellow for Color A and a warm cream or antique white for Color B. This is the most traditional chrysanthemum colorway and is always a crowd-pleaser.

Autumn Harvest: A rich burnt orange for the petals with a chocolate brown center. This combination looks stunning on a dark wood table and feels perfectly seasonal in the fall.

Blush and Ivory: Soft blush pink for the petals with a warm ivory center. This is lovely for a bedroom side table or a baby shower gift set.

Bold Monochrome: Work the entire coaster in a single color for a more sculptural, modern look. Deep burgundy or forest green is especially striking this way.

Ombre Effect: If you have access to a self-striping or gradient cotton yarn, the layers of petals will pick up different tones naturally as you work, creating a beautiful ombre effect with no extra effort.

Making a Full Set

For a set of four coasters, plan on spending roughly three to four hours in total, depending on your pace. That is a very achievable weekend project. I recommend working all four at the same time in rounds — complete Round 1 on all four, then Round 2, and so on — rather than finishing each coaster completely before starting the next. This approach keeps your tension more consistent across the set and makes it much easier to catch mistakes early.

You can mix and match colors within a set for an eclectic, garden-inspired look, or keep all four identical for a more cohesive presentation.

Caring for Your Coasters

Because these are made from cotton, they are machine washable, which makes them genuinely practical for daily use. Wash them in cold water on a gentle cycle and either lay flat to dry or tumble dry on low. Avoid hot water or high heat, which can cause cotton to shrink and may distort the petals slightly.

If your coasters become flattened or misshapen after washing, a few minutes of reshaping with your fingers while they are still damp, followed by laying flat to dry, will restore them to their original form.

A Note on Sharing Your Makes

If you make these chrysanthemum coasters, I would love to see them. Feel free to share your finished project and tag it so the community can admire your work. Seeing the same pattern made up in different colors and yarns by different makers is one of the greatest joys of sharing a free pattern, and every make is a small reminder of why crochet communities are so wonderful.

If you find any steps in this pattern unclear or run into trouble, please leave a comment below and I will do my best to help. Patterns are living documents in a sense — they get clearer and better with every question and every piece of feedback, and I genuinely appreciate hearing from you.

Happy crocheting, and may your coasters always have a warm mug waiting on them.