Crochet Teacup Planter Pattern with Forget Me Not Flowers

There is something undeniably charming about combining two beloved things — the cozy ritual of afternoon tea and the delicate beauty of garden flowers. This crochet teacup planter pattern brings those two worlds together in the sweetest way possible. Whether you display it on a windowsill, a bookshelf, or a garden party table, a crocheted teacup filled with tiny forget me not flowers is the kind of handmade decoration that makes people stop and smile.

This pattern is beginner-friendly with a few intermediate touches, and it walks you through every step — from the base of the teacup to the final petal of the last flower. If you can work in the round, single crochet, and make a simple increase, you have everything you need to complete this project. Let’s get started.

Why You’ll Love This Pattern

Forget me nots are one of those flowers that carry a quiet kind of magic. Their tiny blue petals and yellow centers have represented remembrance, loyalty, and enduring love for centuries. Pairing them with a classic teacup shape gives this project a vintage, cottagecore aesthetic that feels right at home in any modern or traditionally decorated space.

As a planter, this teacup is designed to hold a small potted plant — either real (tucked inside a plastic liner) or artificial. You can also stuff it with polyfill and use it purely as a decorative piece. Either way, the crocheted forget me not flowers that spill over the rim make this look like a tiny garden in a cup, and it is genuinely one of the most satisfying finishes of any project in this category.

This also makes a beautiful handmade gift. Think Mother’s Day, bridal showers, housewarming parties, or teacher appreciation. You can even customize the color of the cup to match a recipient’s kitchen or bedroom palette.

Materials You Will Need

Before diving into the pattern, gather your supplies. This project is intentionally designed to be budget-friendly and uses materials most crafters already have on hand.

For the teacup and saucer, you will need worsted weight yarn in your chosen color. Classic white, sage green, dusty rose, and soft butter yellow all look beautiful. You will also need a 4.0 mm or 5.0 mm crochet hook, depending on how tight or loose you naturally crochet. Aim for a firm, dense fabric so the planter holds its shape. You will need a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and stitch markers.

For the forget me not flowers, use fingering weight or sport weight yarn in light blue, periwinkle, or pale lavender for the petals, and a small amount of yellow or white for the flower centers. You can also use embroidery floss if you want very small, delicate blooms. A 2.5 mm or 3.0 mm hook works well for the flowers.

Optional but highly recommended: a small plastic pot or cup liner to place inside the finished teacup if you plan to use it as an actual planter. A little polyfill is useful for shaping the piece during blocking. Floral wire or pipe cleaners can be used to give the flowers a slight bend and make them easier to arrange.

Gauge and Sizing

Using worsted weight yarn and a 5.0 mm hook, the finished teacup measures approximately 4 inches tall and 4.5 inches wide across the rim. The saucer measures approximately 6 inches in diameter. These measurements can vary slightly based on your personal tension.

If you want a larger planter, go up a hook size or use bulky yarn. If you want a miniature version for a dollhouse or ornament, use fingering weight yarn and a 2.0 mm hook throughout. The pattern construction stays the same regardless of size.

Pattern Abbreviations

Throughout this pattern, the following standard US crochet abbreviations are used.

MR stands for magic ring. CH means chain. SC means single crochet. INC means increase, which is two single crochets worked into the same stitch. DEC means single crochet decrease. SL ST means slip stitch. ST means stitch. BLO means back loop only. FLO means front loop only. RND means round.

The Saucer

Start with the saucer, as it forms the stable base of the entire piece.

Begin with a magic ring. Round 1: work 6 SC into the magic ring, then join with a slip stitch. You will have 6 stitches.

Round 2: CH 1, INC in each stitch around, join. You will have 12 stitches.

Round 3: CH 1, work one SC in the first stitch, INC in the next, and repeat this sequence around, join. You will have 18 stitches.

Round 4: CH 1, work one SC in each of the first two stitches, INC in the third stitch, and repeat around, join. You will have 24 stitches.

Round 5: CH 1, work one SC in each of the first three stitches, INC in the fourth, and repeat around, join. You will have 30 stitches.

Round 6: CH 1, work one SC in each of the first four stitches, INC in the fifth, and repeat around, join. You will have 36 stitches.

Round 7: CH 1, work one SC in each stitch around, join. You will have 36 stitches. This flat round adds a slight rim to the saucer edge and gives it a more defined look.

Fasten off and weave in ends. The saucer is complete.

The Teacup Body

Join your yarn to any stitch of the saucer using a slip stitch. You will be working up from the saucer into the cup body.

Round 1: CH 1, work one SC into each stitch of the outer 30 stitches of the saucer, working in BLO to create a ridge that separates the saucer from the cup. Join with a slip stitch. You will have 30 stitches.

Round 2: CH 1, work one SC in each of the first four stitches, INC in the fifth, repeat around, join. You will have 36 stitches.

Round 3: CH 1, SC in each stitch around, join. 36 stitches.

Round 4: CH 1, work one SC in each of the first five stitches, INC in the sixth, repeat around, join. You will have 42 stitches.

Rounds 5 through 9: CH 1, SC in each stitch around for each round, join at the end of each round. 42 stitches throughout.

Round 10: CH 1, work one SC in each of the first five stitches, DEC in the sixth and seventh stitches, repeat around, join. You will have 36 stitches. This slight decrease creates the traditional pinched waist of the teacup shape.

Round 11: CH 1, SC in each stitch around, join. 36 stitches.

Round 12: CH 1, SC in each stitch around, join. 36 stitches.

Round 13 (rim flare): CH 1, work one SC in each of the first five stitches, INC in the sixth, repeat around, join. You will have 42 stitches.

Round 14: CH 1, SC in each stitch around, join. 42 stitches.

Fasten off and weave in ends. Your teacup body is now complete.

The Handle

The handle is worked as a flat piece and then sewn onto the side of the cup.

Chain 16. Starting in the second chain from the hook, work one SC into each chain across. 15 stitches. Chain 1, turn.

Continue working SC back and forth in rows until the strip measures approximately 0.5 inches wide, which should take about 3 to 4 rows depending on your tension.

Do not fasten off. Instead, use the remaining yarn tail to whip stitch one end of the handle strip to the upper side of the teacup body and the other end to the lower side, forming the curved handle shape. The curve should bow outward naturally when the ends are sewn about 1.5 to 2 inches apart vertically on the side of the cup. Adjust the placement to your preference before securing.

Weave in all ends thoroughly so the handle is firmly attached.

The Forget Me Not Flowers

This is the part that truly brings the project to life. You will make between 8 and 12 flowers depending on how lush you want the arrangement to look. Each flower takes only a few minutes once you get the rhythm.

Using your light blue or periwinkle yarn and your smaller hook, begin with a magic ring.

Round 1: Into the magic ring, work the following sequence five times to create five petals: CH 3, then work 2 double crochet stitches into the ring, then CH 3, then slip stitch into the ring. After completing all five repetitions, pull the magic ring closed tightly.

This creates a classic five-petal forget me not shape. The petals will fan out naturally when the ring is pulled snug.

Cut the blue yarn, leaving a long tail for sewing. Join your yellow or white yarn and work 5 or 6 SC into the center of the flower, pulling them tight to form a small raised center cluster. Fasten off and leave a long tail.

Use the yarn tails to sew each flower onto the rim of the teacup or to attach them to a piece of floral wire so you can arrange them in a small bouquet tucked into the cup.

If you want leaves between the flowers, work a simple leaf as follows: Chain 8, slip stitch into the second chain from the hook, SC in the next chain, half double crochet in the next two chains, double crochet in the next two chains, then 3 double crochets into the last chain for the tip, then work back down the other side of the chain mirroring the same stitches. Fasten off. These leaves can be lightly blocked to flatten them and then arranged among the flowers.

Assembly and Finishing

Once all your pieces are made, the real fun begins. If you plan to use the teacup as a functional planter, place a small plastic cup or ramekin inside the crocheted cup body before inserting your plant. This protects the yarn from moisture. If you are using artificial flowers or displaying it dry, you can skip the liner.

Arrange your forget me not flowers around the rim of the cup, playing with the placement before committing to stitching them down. A cluster of three to five flowers on one side with a few scattered singles on the other gives a natural, garden-picked look. Tuck leaves in between the flowers to fill any gaps and add a realistic touch.

Sew each flower and leaf securely to the rim using the long yarn tails. Weave all ends through several stitches on the underside so nothing shows from the front.

If your teacup doesn’t sit completely flat, lightly block both the cup and saucer using steam or wet blocking. Pin the saucer flat and allow everything to dry fully before displaying.

Customization Ideas

One of the greatest joys of handmade patterns is that they are just a starting point. Here are a few ways to make this pattern your own.

Change the color story entirely by making the cup in a deep navy or forest green and using white flowers with gold centers for a more dramatic, botanical look. For a spring Easter display, use pastel yellow with tiny pink and white flowers. For a winter version, work the cup in white and use silver and icy blue yarn to make snowflake-like flowers instead.

Add a small crocheted bird or bee perched on the rim for a whimsical touch. You can find simple bird patterns that use only a few yards of yarn and stitch them directly to the handle or rim.

Make a whole set of mismatched teacups for a decorative shelf display. Use different colors for each cup but keep the flowers consistent. Or do the opposite — make all the cups white and vary the flowers, from purple lavender to pink roses to yellow daisies, for a cottage garden effect.

For a more advanced version, try working the cup in a tapestry crochet pattern — alternating colors row by row to create stripes, checks, or a floral motif directly into the fabric of the cup itself.

Tips for Success

A few small things make a noticeable difference in the final result. First, keep your tension consistent and firm throughout the cup body. A loose fabric will cause the cup to sag and lose its shape, especially once a plant or filler is placed inside. If your stitches feel loose, drop down a hook size.

Use stitch markers religiously, especially when working in the round. Marking the first stitch of each round prevents the common mistake of losing your place and accidentally increasing or decreasing when you shouldn’t.

When making the flowers, work slowly through the petal sequence the first time until the rhythm becomes intuitive. The combination of chains and double crochets in a magic ring can feel awkward at first but becomes very fast once you have made two or three flowers.

Block your finished pieces even if you don’t usually bother. Blocking makes an enormous difference with small pieces like these flowers. It opens up the petals, evens out the stitches, and gives everything a finished, professional appearance that no amount of neat stitching alone can achieve.

Finally, don’t rush the sewing during assembly. Taking the extra time to securely attach the handle and flowers is what separates a project that lasts for years from one that begins falling apart after a few weeks.

A Note on Gifting

If you plan to give this as a gift, consider presenting it with a small tag that mentions the forget me not’s traditional meaning — a symbol of remembrance and connection. It adds a layer of sentimentality to an already heartfelt handmade object. Tuck a small card inside the cup or tie one to the handle with a thin ribbon in a complementary color.

You can also photograph the finished piece against a few tea props — a vintage spoon, a linen cloth, a real bloom or two — for a beautiful image if you share your makes online. These little teacups photograph exceptionally well and tend to be popular whenever crafters share them.

Final Thoughts

This crochet teacup planter pattern with forget me not flowers is one of those projects that looks far more complicated than it actually is, which makes it incredibly satisfying to finish and to share. It brings together simple crochet techniques in a way that results in something genuinely lovely — the kind of thing you make once and then make again for every person you love.

Whether you are just starting your crochet journey or have been stitching for years, this pattern offers something for every skill level. The teacup body teaches working in the round with shaping. The handle introduces flat rows and seaming. The flowers are tiny exercises in patience and precision that pay off beautifully once they are arranged together.

Take your time, enjoy the process, and don’t be afraid to adjust the pattern to suit your vision. That is, after all, the very best part of making things by hand.

Happy crocheting.