Crochet Sunflower Bouquet Pattern | Amigurumi Flowers PDF (Beginner-Intermediate)
There is something undeniably cheerful about a sunflower. Its bold yellow petals and warm, earthy center carry a kind of sunshine that no vase of cut flowers can quite hold onto — at least not for long. That is exactly why crocheted sunflowers have become one of the most beloved projects in the fiber arts community. They never wilt, they never drop petals on your kitchen counter, and they can be made in any color your heart desires. This crochet sunflower bouquet pattern walks you through creating a full, lush amigurumi-style flower arrangement that looks stunning on a shelf, in a gift basket, or wrapped in kraft paper as a handmade present someone will keep for years.
This pattern is written for beginners to intermediate crocheters. If you have made a magic ring before, know how to single crochet and double crochet, and have worked a few rounds in the round, you are absolutely ready to tackle this project. The finished flowers stand approximately five to six inches tall when assembled with stems, though you can easily adjust the scale by changing your hook size or yarn weight.
Let’s get into everything you need to know.
What You Will Need
Before you cast on your first stitch, gather your materials. Having everything at your fingertips makes the process much more enjoyable, especially since this bouquet involves several components — the center disk, the petals, and the stems.
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (weight 4) works beautifully for this project. You will need yellow for the petals, a dark brown or chocolate brown for the center, and green for the stems and any leaves you choose to add. If you want a more realistic palette, consider using a variegated yellow or even an orange-yellow combination. For a single sunflower, you will use roughly 25–30 yards of yellow and about 15 yards of brown. For a full bouquet of five to seven flowers, plan for 150–200 yards of yellow, 80 yards of brown, and 100 yards of green.
Hook: A 4.0mm or 4.5mm crochet hook pairs nicely with worsted weight yarn for the tight, firm stitches that give amigurumi flowers their dimensional shape. If you tend to crochet loosely, go down a hook size. The goal is a dense fabric with no visible gaps.
Other supplies: Polyester fiberfill or cotton stuffing for the center disk, a yarn needle for weaving in ends and seaming, stitch markers, scissors, and optional floral wire (18-gauge or 20-gauge) wrapped in green floral tape if you want poseable wire stems. You can also use wooden dowels or thick pipe cleaners as stems if you prefer something sturdier.
For a PDF version of this pattern, all of these details are formatted in a printer-friendly layout with stitch counts listed at the end of each round, so you never lose your place.
Abbreviations and Stitch Key
This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout.
MR — Magic Ring
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble crochet
inc — increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — invisible decrease (insert hook into front loop only of next two stitches and single crochet them together)
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
st — stitch
rnd — round
Understanding the Construction
Each sunflower in this bouquet is made in four separate pieces: the front center disk, the back center disk, the petal layer, and the stem with optional leaf. The petal layer is crocheted as a flat piece and then sandwiched between the two center disks before seaming. This gives the flowers that professional, three-dimensional look that makes them pop in a bouquet arrangement.
The stems are crocheted as long tubes worked in a spiral. If you use floral wire inside, you can bend and pose each stem slightly so the bouquet has that natural, organic look of real flowers leaning in slightly different directions.
Pattern: The Center Disk (Make Two Per Flower)
The center disk is the heart of your sunflower. You will make two — a front and a back — and seam them together around the petal layer.
With brown yarn:
Rnd 1: Start with a MR. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc repeat around. (36 sts)
Sl st to close. Fasten off, leaving a long tail on the back disk for seaming. The front disk can be fastened off with a shorter tail, as it will be hidden inside.
Your finished disk should measure roughly 2.5 inches in diameter. If it curls up at the edges or looks like a bowl, you may be working your tension too tightly — try going up half a hook size. If there are obvious holes or gaps, work a bit more firmly.
Pattern: The Petal Layer
This is the most satisfying part to make because you will watch a flat ring transform into a ring of beautiful, dimensional petals in just a few rounds.
With yellow yarn:
Rnd 1: Start with a MR. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull closed. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc repeat around. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc repeat around. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc repeat around. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Working in BLO only, sc in each st around. (30 sts) — Do not slip stitch to close after this round. Instead, continue directly into petal construction.
Petal Construction:
You will now work each petal as an individual small piece attached at its base to the disk. You will work 10 petals total, each using 3 stitches as a base.
Petal 1:
Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch). Working into the next 3 sc from Rnd 6:
Row 1: Sc in each of the 3 sts. Turn. (3 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, hdc in first st, dc in next st, hdc in last st. Turn. (3 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, hdc in first st, tr in next st, hdc in last st. Turn. (3 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, hdc in first st, dc in next st, hdc in last st. Turn. (3 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc dec, sc in last st. Turn. (2 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc dec. (1 st)
Do not fasten off. Sl st along the side edge of the petal back down to the base, then sl st into the next available st on the disk to move into position for the next petal.
Repeat the petal construction for all 10 petals, working around the full circumference of the disk. After the 10th petal, fasten off and weave in the end.
The remaining front loops from Rnd 6 (the ones you left unworked in BLO) will create a natural inner ridge that holds the petal layer in place beautifully against the center disk when you assemble everything.
Assembly: Putting the Flower Together
Lay your petal layer flat. Center the front brown disk on top of it (flower-side up) and the back brown disk underneath it (flower-side down). The petal ring should peek out evenly around the entire circumference.
Thread your yarn needle with the long tail left on the back disk. Working through the outer edge stitches of both disks, seam them together using a whip stitch all the way around, catching the base of the petal layer between them as you go. Before closing the seam completely, stuff the center disk firmly with fiberfill so it has that lovely domed shape. Close the seam, knot securely, and weave in the end.
Your finished sunflower center should now be a plump, stuffed brown disk with a ring of yellow petals radiating outward. It is already looking gorgeous.
Pattern: The Stem
The stem is a simple crocheted tube worked in the round. For a stem that is approximately six inches long, follow these instructions.
With green yarn:
Rnd 1: Start with MR. Work 6 sc into ring. Pull closed. (6 sts)
Rnds 2–30: Sc in each st around. (6 sts per round)
If you are inserting floral wire, cut your wire to about eight inches, fold the top inch down into a small hook shape, insert it into the tube before closing, and seam the top of the tube around the hooked end. This anchors the wire inside the stem so it does not pull through. The extra length at the bottom can be bent into a small coil as a base, or trimmed and inserted into a floral foam block if you are displaying the bouquet in a vase.
Fasten off and seam the top of the tube closed around the wire or dowel. Attach the stem to the back of the flower center using your yarn needle and several secure stitches through the bottom of the back disk and the top of the stem.
Pattern: The Leaf (Optional, Make One or Two Per Flower)
Leaves add so much character to the finished bouquet and they are wonderfully quick to make.
With green yarn:
Ch 10.
Row 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 3, hdc 1, sc 1, then work 3 sc into the last ch (this is the tip of the leaf). Now work back along the opposite side of the starting chain: sc 1, hdc 1, dc 3, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st into the first sc at the base to close. (approximately 21 sts total)
Fasten off, leaving a tail for attaching. Sew the leaf directly onto the stem wherever it looks most natural, typically about two inches below the flower head.
Making a Full Bouquet
To create a lush, full bouquet, make between five and seven sunflowers. An odd number always looks more natural and balanced in an arrangement. Vary your stems slightly in length — some six inches, some seven, one or two at five inches — so the flower heads sit at different heights and create that beautiful cascading effect of a real bouquet.
Once all your flowers are assembled with their stems, group them together and adjust the positions until the arrangement pleases you. Wrap the bundle of stems together with a length of green yarn, winding it around several times and tying it off securely. Finish the bouquet by tying a length of jute twine, raffia, or ribbon around the stems in a bow.
For gifting, wrap the bouquet in a square of kraft paper or tissue paper, gather it at the back, and secure with a rubber band before tying your ribbon. It presents beautifully and makes a truly memorable handmade gift.
Tips for Getting the Best Results
Working in a tight tension throughout this pattern is one of the most important things you can do. Amigurumi flowers rely on a firm, dense fabric to hold their shape. If your stitches are loose, the stuffing will show through and the petals may droop. When in doubt, go down a hook size rather than up.
The magic ring is also worth taking the time to master if it is new to you. It gives a perfectly closed center to your disk with no visible hole, which matters a great deal when your center disk is the focal point of every flower. If you truly cannot get the magic ring to work for you, chain 4 and join into a ring with a slip stitch — just pull the tail tight at the end to close it as much as possible.
Color is one of the great joys of this project. While golden yellow and dark brown are the classic sunflower combination, there is absolutely no rule that says you have to be realistic. Deep burgundy petals with a black center make a dramatic gothic sunflower. Pale peach petals with a honey center feel soft and romantic. A mix of orange and yellow petals on the same flower, blending color every few petals, gives you a wildflower effect that is nothing short of stunning.
If you are selling your finished bouquets at a craft fair or on Etsy, blocking your petal layers before assembly will make a noticeable difference in the finished appearance. Lightly mist with water, shape each petal individually, and allow to dry flat before assembling. The petals will hold their shape much more crisply after blocking.
Displaying and Caring for Your Crochet Sunflowers
One of the best things about crocheted flowers is how little care they require. Keep them out of direct sunlight for long periods if you want the yarn colors to stay vibrant — UV exposure can fade even acrylic yarn over time. Dust them gently with a soft brush or a hairdryer on a cool, low setting every few months.
For display, these flowers look wonderful in a tall glass vase with some decorative stones or sand in the bottom to anchor the stems. They also look beautiful tucked into a wreath form, used as a table centerpiece, or clipped to a gift bag as an embellishment. If you add a pin back to the individual flowers (without stems), they make sweet corsages or hair accessories.
Download the PDF
The PDF version of this crochet sunflower bouquet pattern includes all of the written instructions above, formatted neatly with round-by-round stitch counts, a full materials list, a photo tutorial for the petal construction, and a quick-reference stitch guide at the front. The file is sized for standard US letter paper and A4 paper so it prints cleanly wherever you are in the world. The PDF is designed so you can view it clearly on a tablet or phone if you prefer to work without printing.
Whether you are building your amigurumi flower skills for the first time or adding another beautiful pattern to your collection, this sunflower bouquet is a project you will return to again and again. The individual flowers work up in under an hour once you are familiar with the sequence, which means a full five-flower bouquet is a very achievable weekend project.
Happy crocheting — and may your bouquet bring a little sunshine to every room it lands in.
