Learn to Crochet: Tunisian Crochet Leaf

If you’ve been crocheting for a while and you’re looking for your next big skill to unlock, Tunisian crochet might be exactly what you’ve been searching for. It sits beautifully in the space between traditional crochet and knitting, producing a dense, textured fabric with a look all its own. And one of the most satisfying projects to make once you get comfortable with the technique is a Tunisian crochet leaf — a versatile little motif that works up into something that genuinely looks impressive, even though the process is far more approachable than it appears.

In this guide, we’re going to walk through everything from scratch. You’ll learn what Tunisian crochet actually is, what makes it different, what tools you need, and then step by step we’ll build a complete leaf motif together. Whether you want to use this leaf as a standalone embellishment, add it to a garland, stitch it onto a hat, or use it as a building block for a larger project, by the end of this tutorial you’ll have everything you need to make it happen.

What Is Tunisian Crochet?

Before we dive into the leaf itself, it helps to understand a little about the Tunisian technique so that the stitch instructions make intuitive sense.

Tunisian crochet — sometimes called Afghan crochet or Tricot crochet — uses a special elongated hook with a stopper on the end (or a regular hook with a cable extension for very wide work). Unlike regular crochet, where you work stitches one at a time and move across the fabric, Tunisian crochet is worked in two distinct passes on every row.

The first pass is called the forward pass. On the forward pass, you pick up loops across the row, loading them all onto your hook — similar in spirit to casting on stitches in knitting. You never turn your work. At the end of the forward pass, your hook is loaded with multiple loops.

The second pass is called the return pass. On the return pass, you work those loops back off the hook by chaining through them, two at a time. When the return pass is complete, you have a single loop left on your hook and you’re ready to start the next forward pass.

This rhythm — forward then return, forward then return — creates the distinctive woven or basketweave look that Tunisian crochet is known for. The fabric lies flat without curling the way knitting sometimes does (though Tunisian does have a slight natural curl that you can block out), and the resulting texture is thicker and more structured than regular single crochet fabric.

The basic Tunisian simple stitch (Tss) is the foundation of almost everything in Tunisian crochet, and it’s what you’ll use most in this leaf pattern.

Tools and Materials You’ll Need

Getting the right tools makes a real difference with Tunisian crochet, so it’s worth spending a moment on this before you cast on.

Tunisian Crochet Hook: You’ll need a hook specifically designed for Tunisian work. For this leaf, a size 5mm (H/8) Tunisian hook works nicely with worsted weight yarn, but you can go up or down depending on the yarn you’re using. If your hook is very short, that’s fine for a small leaf — the typical leaf motif only requires holding about 15–20 loops at once.

Yarn: Any smooth, light-to-medium weight yarn will show off the stitch definition beautifully. A DK or worsted weight in a solid color lets you see every stitch clearly, which is especially helpful when you’re learning. Green is an obvious choice for a leaf, but don’t feel locked in — rust, gold, and burgundy make stunning autumn leaves, while pale cream or white can become a beautiful lace-look botanical motif.

Scissors and a tapestry needle: You’ll need these to weave in your ends when the leaf is finished.

Stitch marker (optional): Helpful for marking the center stitch when you’re working the leaf’s central spine increases.

Understanding the Key Stitches

Before we write out the full pattern, let’s make sure you’re comfortable with the stitches you’ll encounter.

Chain (ch): The standard crochet chain. You already know this one.

Tunisian Simple Stitch (Tss) — Forward Pass: Insert the hook from right to left under the front vertical bar of the stitch below, yarn over, and pull up a loop. Leave that loop on the hook and move to the next stitch. Do not turn.

Return Pass: Yarn over and pull through the first loop alone. Then yarn over and pull through two loops; repeat from * across until one loop remains. This single remaining loop becomes the first stitch of your next forward pass.

Tunisian Decrease (Tss2tog): Insert your hook through two front vertical bars simultaneously (entering through both at the same time), yarn over, and pull up a single loop. This decreases the stitch count by one.

Tunisian Increase: Work two Tss into the same vertical bar. You’ll use this along the central vein of the leaf to build the width.

Slip Stitch (sl st): The standard crochet slip stitch, used here for finishing the edges.

Reading the Pattern

Tunisian crochet patterns can look a little unusual at first because of the two-pass system. When you see a row written out, it will typically say “Row X Forward” and “Row X Return.” This is your cue that both passes together make one complete row. Take it one pass at a time and don’t rush yourself.

Also keep in mind that the very first loop on your hook at the start of every forward pass is not counted as a stitch — it’s just the working loop carried over from the return pass. The vertical bar directly to the right of that loop is your first stitch.

Tunisian Crochet Leaf Pattern

Finished size: Approximately 4 inches long and 2.5 inches wide with worsted weight yarn on a 5mm hook. Adjust as needed.

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
Tss = Tunisian simple stitch
Tss2tog = Tunisian simple stitch two together (decrease)
Return = standard Tunisian return pass (yo, pull through 1, yo, pull through 2, repeat from to end)
sl st = slip stitch

Foundation

Make a slip knot and chain 3.

Row 1 Forward: Skip the first chain from the hook. Pick up a loop in each of the next 2 chains. You have 3 loops on the hook (including the starting loop).

Row 1 Return: Work the standard return pass. You now have 1 loop on the hook.

Building the Leaf

Row 2 Forward: Tss in the first vertical bar, work 2 Tss in the second vertical bar (increase made at the tip of the leaf). You have 4 loops on the hook.

Row 2 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Row 3 Forward: Tss in each vertical bar across. (4 stitches)

Row 3 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Row 4 Forward: Tss in the first vertical bar, work 2 Tss in the next vertical bar, Tss in the next vertical bar, work 2 Tss in the last vertical bar. (6 loops on hook)

Row 4 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Row 5 Forward: Tss in each vertical bar across. (6 stitches)

Row 5 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Row 6 Forward: Tss in the first two vertical bars, work 2 Tss in the center stitch (the 3rd vertical bar), Tss in the remaining 3 vertical bars. (7 loops on hook)

Row 6 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Row 7 Forward: Tss in the first three vertical bars, work 2 Tss in the center stitch (4th vertical bar), Tss in the remaining 3 vertical bars. (8 loops on hook)

Row 7 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Row 8 Forward: Tss in each vertical bar across. (8 stitches)

Row 8 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Row 9 Forward: Tss in the first 3 vertical bars, work 2 Tss in the center-left stitch, work 2 Tss in the center-right stitch, Tss in the remaining 3 vertical bars. (10 loops on hook)

Row 9 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Row 10 Forward: Tss in each vertical bar across. (10 stitches)

Row 10 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Shaping the Widest Point

Row 11 Forward: Tss in the first 4 vertical bars, work 2 Tss in the next vertical bar, Tss in the remaining 5 vertical bars. (11 loops on hook)

Row 11 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Row 12 Forward: Tss in each vertical bar across. (11 stitches)

Row 12 Return: Work the standard return pass.

This is the widest part of your leaf. Take a moment to look at the shape — you should see a gently rounded, symmetrical form that is wider in the middle and tapers toward where you started. The front vertical bars should create a clear grid pattern across the surface, which is that characteristic Tunisian texture.

Decreasing Back to the Stem

Now you’ll mirror what you did on the way up, working decreases instead of increases to taper the leaf back down toward the base and eventually form the stem.

Row 13 Forward: Tss in the first 2 vertical bars, Tss2tog (decrease), Tss in the next 3 vertical bars, Tss2tog (decrease), Tss in the remaining 2 vertical bars. (9 loops on hook)

Row 13 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Row 14 Forward: Tss in each vertical bar across. (9 stitches)

Row 14 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Row 15 Forward: Tss in the first 2 vertical bars, Tss2tog, Tss in the next vertical bar, Tss2tog, Tss in the remaining 2 vertical bars. (7 loops on hook)

Row 15 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Row 16 Forward: Tss in each vertical bar across. (7 stitches)

Row 16 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Row 17 Forward: Tss in the first vertical bar, Tss2tog, Tss in the next vertical bar, Tss2tog, Tss in the last vertical bar. (5 loops on hook)

Row 17 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Row 18 Forward: Tss in each vertical bar across. (5 stitches)

Row 18 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Row 19 Forward: Tss2tog, Tss in the next vertical bar, Tss2tog. (3 loops on hook)

Row 19 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Stem

Row 20 Forward: Tss in each vertical bar across. (3 stitches)

Row 20 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Row 21 Forward: Tss2tog, Tss in the last vertical bar. (2 loops on hook)

Row 21 Return: Work the standard return pass.

Repeat Row 20 and Row 21 return two more times on the 2 remaining stitches to create a short stem, or continue as long as you’d like the stem to be.

To finish, work a slip stitch into the last vertical bar, cut yarn, and pull the tail through the final loop to secure.

Finishing the Leaf

Once you’ve fastened off, weave in both ends using your tapestry needle. Take your time with this — Tunisian fabric is dense enough that a well-woven tail won’t go anywhere, but it’s worth weaving back and forth in a few directions to make sure it’s secure.

At this point, your leaf might have a slight natural curl along the edges, which is normal for Tunisian crochet. A simple wet blocking will open it up beautifully. Soak the leaf in cool water for about ten minutes, gently squeeze out the excess water (don’t wring it), then lay it flat on a blocking board or a clean towel and pin it into the leaf shape you want. Let it dry completely — usually overnight — and when you unpin it, the shape will hold.

If you want to add more definition to the leaf’s vein or border, you can work a single crochet border all the way around the edge using a regular crochet hook. This also helps the edges lie even flatter after blocking.

Tips for Getting a Great Result

One of the most common frustrations beginners encounter with Tunisian crochet is tension — specifically, keeping it consistent. On the return pass, it’s easy to pull the yarn too tightly as you work off the loops, which can pucker the fabric and make the next forward pass difficult. Consciously relax your grip on the return pass and keep your loops a little looser than you think you need to. With a few rows of practice, you’ll find the rhythm naturally.

Another thing to watch is the first and last stitches of each forward pass. The last stitch of every row sits under both the front and back vertical bars at the edge — be sure you’re picking up both bars together when you work that final stitch, otherwise the edges of your leaf will start to pull inward.

If you lose count of where you are in the pattern, the easiest fix is to count the stitches on your hook before starting the return pass. If the number matches what the pattern says, you’re in great shape. If it doesn’t, it’s usually quicker to rip back that forward pass and redo it than to try to figure out where a stitch was missed or accidentally added.

Ways to Use Your Tunisian Crochet Leaf

Once you’ve made one leaf, you’ll almost certainly want to make more — and that’s a good thing, because these motifs are genuinely versatile.

A simple garland is one of the most popular uses. Make ten to twenty leaves in varying shades of green or autumn colors, then whipstitch them together along their stem ends and hang them across a mantle, a doorway, or a shelf. It creates a natural, handcrafted look that works beautifully in any season.

Leaves also make excellent embellishments for hats, scarves, and bags. A cluster of three leaves with a crocheted berry or button center makes a gorgeous brooch-style accent. You can sew a safety pin backing onto a leaf or a grouping of leaves to make a wearable pin that also shows off your crochet skills.

If you’re ambitious, repeated leaf motifs can be joined to form a full shawl or table runner. Work in a light fingering weight yarn and the effect is almost lace-like. You can join leaves stem-to-tip in a long chain, or arrange them in a fan pattern and whipstitch the edges together. The dense, structured fabric of Tunisian crochet means the finished piece holds its shape well.

Leaves also work wonderfully as gift toppers — they’re a beautiful alternative to a ribbon and add a personal, handmade touch that people genuinely appreciate.

Expanding Your Tunisian Crochet Skills

Now that you’ve worked through the Tunisian simple stitch and the basic leaf shape, you have a genuine foundation to build on. Tunisian crochet opens up into a rich world of stitch variations, each producing a different texture and look.

The Tunisian knit stitch (Tks) is one to try next — it closely mimics the look of stockinette knitting and creates a smooth, stretchy fabric that’s wonderful for garments. The Tunisian full stitch produces a dense, woven look that’s almost like tweed fabric. The Tunisian smock stitch creates a gathered, honeycomb effect that’s stunning in baby patterns and home décor.

There’s also Tunisian entrelac, which works the fabric in interlocking squares or diamonds, and Tunisian colorwork, where you can carry multiple colors across the forward pass to create stripes, geometric patterns, or even pictorial designs.

The leaf motif you’ve just made is also a great jumping-off point for exploring other botanical shapes. A simple Tunisian petal follows almost the same logic — increase to the widest point, hold even for a few rows, then decrease back down. Combine five or six petals at a center point and you have a full flower. Add a few of your leaves and you’ve