Crochet Monstera Leaf Coaster & Appliqué Tutorial: A Step-by-Step Guide to Making Stunning Tropical Décor

If you’ve been scrolling through home décor inspiration lately, you’ve probably noticed that the monstera leaf is absolutely everywhere. From throw pillows to wallpaper, this iconic tropical plant has become one of the most beloved design motifs of the decade — and for good reason. Its dramatic, fenestrated shape is instantly recognizable, endlessly stylish, and just plain fun to look at. Now imagine recreating that gorgeous leaf in crochet form, small enough to use as a coaster, detailed enough to use as an appliqué on a tote bag, cushion cover, or sweater. That’s exactly what we’re doing today.

This tutorial covers everything you need to know to crochet a monstera leaf from scratch. Whether you’re making a set of coasters for your coffee table, a decorative appliqué to stitch onto a project, or just a fun botanical piece to display on its own, this pattern works beautifully for all of those purposes. It’s suitable for crocheters who are comfortable with basic stitches and are ready to tackle something a little more sculptural and creative.

Let’s dig in.

What You’ll Need

Before we start stitching, gather your supplies. Having everything ready before you begin makes the whole process smoother and more enjoyable.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn in your chosen green works best for a coaster-sized leaf. You can go with a single shade of green for a clean, modern look, or use two shades — a brighter green and a deeper forest green — to add dimension. Cotton yarn is ideal for coasters because it’s absorbent, durable, and lies flat without curling. Paintbox Cotton DK, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, and Drops Safran are all excellent choices. If you’re making an appliqué to sew onto a fabric item, acrylic or cotton-blend yarn in DK or sport weight will give you a thinner, more flexible piece that lays flat against the fabric.

Hook: For worsted weight cotton, a 4.0 mm or 4.5 mm hook is a great starting point. For DK weight, go with a 3.5 mm hook. Always check your gauge and adjust as needed — since this is a decorative item and not a fitted garment, exact gauge isn’t critical, but it does affect the final size of your leaf.

Scissors and a tapestry needle: You’ll need these for fastening off and weaving in your ends.

Stitch markers: Optional but helpful for keeping track of your starting chain and any key stitch positions.

Pins and a blocking board: If you want your leaf to lie perfectly flat (especially for coasters), a quick blocking session makes a huge difference.

Understanding the Monstera Leaf Shape

Before we dive into the pattern itself, it helps to understand what we’re recreating. A real monstera deliciosa leaf is heart-shaped at the base, with a long pointed tip and a series of natural splits and holes called fenestrations. Younger monstera leaves don’t have these cuts yet — they’re smooth and oval — but the mature leaves are what everyone recognizes: deeply lobed along the edges and dotted with oval holes toward the center.

In crochet, we recreate this iconic look by working the leaf in sections. The basic leaf shape is worked first, starting from the tip and expanding outward. Then the characteristic split lobes along the sides are created using a combination of stitches and strategic decreases. The holes (fenestrations) can be added with simple chain spaces worked into the body of the leaf.

This is one of those patterns that looks complicated from a distance but is actually very logical once you understand how the shape builds. Trust the process, and you’ll end up with something that genuinely looks like a miniature monstera.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

To keep things clear throughout the instructions, here’s a quick reference for the abbreviations used:

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble crochet
st — stitch
sp — space
sk — skip
inc — increase (work 2 stitches into the same stitch)
dec — decrease (sc2tog or invisible decrease)
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
MR — magic ring

The Crochet Monstera Leaf Pattern

This pattern produces a leaf approximately 5 to 6 inches tall and 4 inches wide when worked in worsted weight cotton on a 4.0 mm hook. For a smaller appliqué, use DK weight and a 3.5 mm hook to get a leaf closer to 3 to 4 inches.

Foundation: Starting at the Tip

Make a magic ring. If you prefer not to use a magic ring, you can chain 2 and work your starting stitches into the second chain from the hook.

Round 1: Work 6 sc into the magic ring. Pull the ring closed snugly. (6 sts)

Round 2: Work 2 sc into each stitch around. (12 sts)

Round 3: [Sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st] repeat around. (18 sts)

At this point, slip stitch to join the round, and then begin working back and forth in rows rather than rounds. This is what gives the leaf its elongated, directional shape rather than a flat circle.

Building the Body of the Leaf

Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc across the next 8 stitches, turn. (9 dc)

Row 5: Ch 3, dc in each st across, working 2 dc into the last stitch to increase, turn. (10 dc)

Row 6: Ch 3, 2 dc in the first st (increase), dc across to end, turn. (11 dc)

Row 7: Ch 3, dc across, 2 dc in the last st, turn. (12 dc)

Row 8: Ch 3, dc across, turn. (12 dc, no increase — this keeps the sides of your leaf straight for a stretch before the lobes begin)

Rows 9 and 10: Repeat Row 8, working straight across without increases.

Now we’re going to start shaping the lobes on the sides and adding the characteristic splits.

Creating the Side Lobes

This is where your monstera starts to look like a monstera. The lobes are created by working partway across a row, creating a pointed or rounded extension off the side, and then returning to work the rest of the main body. It sounds more complicated than it is — think of it like making small branches off the main trunk of the leaf.

For the first lobe (lower right side):

Row 11: Ch 3, dc in the next 4 sts. Do not turn yet. Ch 4, then work 3 dc back into the last dc you just made (this creates the rounded tip of the lobe). Work back along the chain: sc in the next 2 chain spaces, then sl st into the stitch on the main body where you paused. Now continue across the rest of row 11: dc in each remaining st, turn.

For the first lobe (lower left side):

Row 12: Ch 3, dc across the main body until you’re about 4 stitches from the end. Work the lobe on this side the same way: ch 4, work 3 dc into the last dc made, sc back along the chain, sl st into the main body, then continue to the end of the row and turn.

Repeat this lobe-making process two more times on each side as you work rows 13 through 16, spacing the lobes roughly every 2 to 3 rows. The lobes can be made slightly larger each time by increasing your turning chain to ch 5 or ch 6 and working 4 dc into the tip instead of 3, which mimics the way real monstera lobes grow larger toward the base of the leaf.

Adding the Fenestrations (Holes)

The fenestrations are what truly set the monstera apart. These are worked as simple chain spaces within the body of the leaf, surrounded by stitches on all sides so they appear as enclosed holes rather than open gaps at the edge.

After you have your basic lobe structure in place and have a row that’s about 12 to 14 stitches wide, work a fenestration row like this:

Row 17 (fenestration row): Ch 3, dc in next 3 sts, ch 3, skip 3 sts, dc in next 4 sts, ch 3, skip 3 sts, dc in remaining sts, turn.

Row 18: Ch 3, dc in each st across, working 3 dc into each ch-3 space (so the holes appear closed at the top and the stitches continue seamlessly). Turn.

You can add a second fenestration row two or three rows above the first, working it slightly differently so the holes are offset from each other — just like on a real monstera leaf. Work a row with: dc in next 5 sts, ch 3, skip 3 sts, dc in remaining sts, placing this single hole roughly between the two holes of the previous fenestration row.

Shaping the Base

Real monstera leaves have a heart-shaped indentation at the base, also called the sinus. To recreate this, finish your final straight rows and then work a split base.

On your last main row, dc across to the center of the row. Join a second length of yarn (or continue with the same yarn by making a sharp turn) and work the right half of the base independently: work a couple of rows in dc, decreasing by one stitch on the interior edge each row to create a gentle inward curve. Repeat for the left half. This creates the characteristic “V” split at the bottom of the leaf.

Alternatively, for a simpler approach, just work a row of single crochet across the base and then work 3 single crochet decreases evenly across the center portion on the following row to pull the base inward slightly.

Finishing the Leaf

Once your leaf shape is complete, work a single crochet border all the way around the entire perimeter, including into the lobes and around the base. This tidies everything up beautifully, gives the leaf clean, defined edges, and helps it lie flat.

When you reach a tight inside corner (such as the inner edges of the lobes), work a sl st rather than a sc to keep the corner snug without adding bulk. When you reach any outside point (such as the tip of a lobe), work 3 sc into that single stitch to help the point lie flat and turn the corner neatly.

Fasten off and weave in all your ends carefully with your tapestry needle.

Blocking Your Monstera Leaf

Blocking is the secret step that takes a crocheted piece from looking homemade to looking professionally crafted. For cotton yarn, wet blocking works beautifully. Soak your finished leaf in cool water for about 15 to 20 minutes, then gently press out the water in a towel (don’t wring — just press). Lay the leaf on your blocking board, pin it into your desired shape, making sure the lobes are spread out and the fenestrations are open and defined, and allow it to dry completely before unpinning. The difference is remarkable.

For acrylic yarn (if you’re making an appliqué), steam blocking works better. Hold a steam iron a couple of inches above the piece (never let the iron touch acrylic directly) and allow the steam to relax the fibers. Pin it and let it cool completely.

Using Your Monstera Leaf as a Coaster

For a coaster set, make four or six leaves. For coasters specifically, cotton yarn is strongly recommended both for its flat-lying properties and its ability to absorb moisture. You might like to make each coaster in a slightly different shade of green — mint, sage, emerald, forest — for a beautiful varied set that still looks cohesive. You can also make a matching coaster from a plain circle or square in a contrasting color, like cream or terracotta, and sew your leaf on top for a layered effect.

Store your coasters flat when not in use and hand wash them gently as needed. Cotton holds up extremely well to regular washing.

Using Your Monstera Leaf as an Appliqué

For appliqués, sew your finished leaf onto the surface of your chosen item using a tapestry needle and a length of matching yarn or thread. Use a whipstitch around the outer edge for a casual look, or a flatter ladder stitch if you want the leaf to appear more seamlessly attached. Make sure you’re sewing through both the crocheted leaf and the fabric underneath.

Monstera appliqués look incredible on tote bags, denim jackets, throw pillow covers, plant pot holders, and even wide-brimmed sun hats. You can use a single large leaf as a statement focal point or cluster several leaves of different sizes together for a lush, tropical effect. Add a few small crochet circles in the same green to suggest additional leaves in the background, or include a small piece of brown or tan yarn shaped into a stem to give the design more botanical realism.

Tips for Getting the Best Results

Working with cotton for the first time can feel a little stiff or rough on your hands compared to acrylic, but it gets much softer after blocking and washing, so don’t be put off by that initial feel. If your tension tends to run tight, go up half a hook size.

If your leaf is curling at the edges before blocking, don’t panic — that’s very normal for cotton projects. Blocking will solve it completely. Just make sure you pin it firmly and give it enough time to dry fully.

If you want to make a larger leaf, you don’t need to follow a different pattern — simply use bulkier yarn (a chunky weight, for example) and a larger hook. Your finished leaf will scale up proportionally with almost no adjustments needed.

For a two-toned leaf, hold two strands of different green yarns together and work the leaf as a single strand. The colors will blend and shift naturally as you work, giving you a beautifully variegated effect that mimics the natural light and shadow of a real leaf.

More Ways to Style Your Crochet Monstera

Once you’ve made one monstera leaf, you’ll probably want to make twenty more. That’s just how it works. Here are a few ideas for putting your leaves to use beyond coasters and appliqués:

You can make a full monstera garland by connecting leaves along a length of chain, perfect for stringing along a shelf or mantle. A crochet monstera leaf bookmark is a lovely quick project and a wonderful gift for book lovers. Larger leaves worked in chunky yarn make gorgeous wall hangings when stiffened with a fabric stiffener spray and mounted on a branch or dowel rod. You can even make tiny monstera leaves in fingering weight yarn to use as earrings or pendants with the right hardware.

The pattern is also a brilliant base for practicing other botanical shapes. Once you’ve mastered the monstera with its lobes and fenestrations, you’ll have the skills to tackle other leaves with character — think fiddle leaf fig, philodendron, or even a stylized banana leaf.

Final Thoughts

Crochet botanical projects like this monstera leaf are some of the most satisfying things you can make with a hook and some yarn. They’re small enough to finish in a single afternoon, they use very little material, they make thoughtful handmade gifts, and they look genuinely beautiful in a finished space. There’s also something quietly meditative about working a small, detailed piece like this — watching a flat shape gradually take on a recognizable, organic form is endlessly rewarding.

Whether you’re new to shaped crochet or a seasoned maker looking for a fresh project, the monstera leaf is a pattern worth adding to your repertoire. Block it well, style it with care, and enjoy the little bit of tropical greenery you’ve added to your world — one stitch at a time.

Happy crocheting!