Autumn Maple Leaf Coasters — Free Crochet Pattern
There is something quietly magical about autumn that makes crafters reach for their hooks and yarn before the first leaf has even fallen. The shift in light, the crispness in the air, the way the trees slowly set themselves on fire in amber and crimson — all of it begs to be translated into something tangible, something you can hold in your hands and set on your coffee table. These Autumn Maple Leaf Coasters do exactly that. They bring the warmth of the season indoors in the most functional and beautiful way possible, and best of all, they are completely free to make.
Whether you are a seasoned crocheter looking for a quick seasonal project or a beginner who wants to practice working in rounds and shaping techniques, these coasters are a wonderful fit. They work up quickly, use only a small amount of yarn, and make genuinely impressive gifts. A set of four or six nestled inside a mason jar or tied with twine makes a heartfelt autumn gift that feels handmade in the very best sense of the word.
Let’s get into everything you need to know before we dive into the pattern itself.
Why You’ll Love This Pattern
Maple leaf shapes are iconic for a reason. The five-pointed silhouette is instantly recognizable and carries a sense of seasonal nostalgia that few other motifs can match. When worked in crochet, the leaf takes on a wonderful texture that adds visual interest even before you consider the yarn color. In autumn shades — burnt orange, golden yellow, deep cranberry, chocolate brown, forest green — these coasters practically glow on a wooden table.
Beyond their looks, these coasters are genuinely practical. They are thick enough to protect surfaces from hot mugs and cold glasses, they lie flat without curling (which is a common frustration with leaf-shaped projects), and they are durable enough to wash and reuse season after season. If you store them carefully, these little coasters can become part of your annual autumn ritual for years to come.
This pattern is also a fantastic stash-buster. Each coaster uses only a small amount of worsted weight yarn, so it is the perfect way to use up leftover skeins from other projects. Mixing different autumn tones within the same set creates a beautiful, eclectic look that mimics the variety of colors you actually see on a forest floor in October.
Materials You Will Need
Before you begin, gather your supplies. Nothing on this list is unusual or hard to find, which is part of what makes this such an accessible pattern.
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (category 4) in your choice of autumn colors. Suggested shades include burnt orange, golden yellow, rust red, deep burgundy, caramel, chocolate brown, and olive green. You will need approximately 25–40 yards per coaster depending on your tension and hook size. Cotton yarn is strongly recommended for coasters because it is absorbent, durable, heat-resistant, and washes beautifully. 100% cotton or a cotton blend both work well. Brands like Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, Paintbox Simply DK (in a thicker tension), or WeCrochet Dishie are excellent choices.
Hook: US size G/6 (4.0mm) or H/8 (5.0mm) crochet hook. The G hook will give you a tighter, firmer coaster. The H hook produces a slightly larger and softer result. Swatch to see which size you prefer, keeping in mind that tighter tension makes for a sturdier surface protector.
Additional supplies: Scissors, a yarn needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers (optional but helpful for keeping your place), and a damp cloth or steam iron for blocking.
Gauge
Gauge matters more than you might think with coasters. If your tension is too loose, the coaster will be floppy and not lie flat. If it is too tight, the fabric may pucker or cup.
Using US G/6 hook and worsted weight cotton yarn, you should aim for approximately 16 stitches and 18 rows equal to 4 inches in single crochet. For this specific pattern, the finished coaster should measure approximately 4.5 to 5 inches across at its widest point. This is a comfortable size for a standard mug or small glass.
Gauge swatching is always encouraged, especially if you are making these as gifts and want consistent sizing across a set.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
This pattern is written using standard US crochet terms. Here is a quick reference for the abbreviations you will encounter.
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble crochet
inc — increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — decrease (single crochet two stitches together)
st(s) — stitch(es)
sp — space
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
MR — magic ring (also called magic circle)
rep — repeat
rnd — round
RS — right side
WS — wrong side
Special Stitches
Magic Ring (MR): Make a loop with your yarn, insert your hook through the loop, pull up a loop of working yarn, chain 1, and work your stitches into the ring. Pull the tail to close. This technique is essential for starting projects in the round without a visible hole at the center.
Picot: Chain 3, slip stitch into the first chain. This creates a small decorative bump and is used along the outer edge of the leaf to define its natural, slightly serrated appearance.
Pattern Notes
Read through the entire pattern before beginning. Crochet can feel more intuitive once you have a sense of where each section is heading.
The coaster is worked in joined rounds from the center outward, then the leaf lobes are shaped using short rows worked back and forth. The stem is added at the end with a simple attached chain or crochet cord.
Do not skip blocking. Even if your coaster looks reasonably flat off the hook, a quick steam blocking or wet blocking will make a dramatic difference in the final appearance. It softens the stitches, evens out any tension irregularities, and helps the leaf shape settle into its most flattering silhouette.
The Pattern
Starting the Center
Make a magic ring.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring, pull to close, sl st to first sc to join. (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, sl st to join. (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, [sc in next st, inc in next st] 6 times, sl st to join. (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, [sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st] 6 times, sl st to join. (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, [sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st] 6 times, sl st to join. (30 sts)
At this point you have a small, firm circle that will become the center of the leaf. This forms the body from which the lobes radiate.
Shaping the Leaf Lobes
The maple leaf has five main lobes — one at the top, two on each side, and the base where the stem attaches. You will work each lobe separately using short rows, then join them at the edges.
Top Lobe (Center Point):
Turn your work so the right side is facing you. Count 6 stitches from your current position and mark that stitch with a stitch marker — this is where your top lobe begins.
Row 1: Join yarn in marked st. Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 5 sts, turn. (6 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, dec, sc in next 2 sts, dec, turn. (4 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, dec, dec, turn. (2 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, dec. (1 st)
Fasten off and leave a short tail for weaving in.
Upper Side Lobes (make 2, one on each side of the top lobe):
These lobes sit immediately beside the top lobe and are worked in a similar fashion but are slightly shorter.
Row 1: Join yarn in the stitch immediately beside the base of the top lobe. Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 4 sts, turn. (5 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, dec, sc in next st, dec, turn. (3 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc across, turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, dec, sc in last st. (2 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, dec. (1 st)
Fasten off. Repeat on the opposite side of the top lobe.
Lower Side Lobes (make 2):
These are the broadest lobes and give the leaf its classic wide appearance.
Row 1: Join yarn in the next available stitch along the base circle. Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next 5 sts, turn. (6 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc across, turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, dec, sc in next 2 sts, dec, turn. (4 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc across, turn.
Row 5: Ch 1, dec, dec. (2 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, dec. (1 st)
Fasten off. Repeat on the opposite side.
Edging the Leaf
This is where the coaster really comes together. A neat edging defines the shape and gives the leaf its characteristic silhouette with small pointed serrations along each lobe.
Join yarn with a sl st at the base of the leaf (where the stem will go).
Work a single crochet edging around the entire outer edge of the leaf, following the contour of each lobe. As you reach the tip of each lobe, work a picot (ch 3, sl st into first ch) to create a delicate point. Work 3 sc down each side of a lobe before the next picot.
Along the indentations between lobes, work a sl st or a dec to pull the fabric inward and emphasize the separation between each lobe.
Continue until you have returned to the starting point. Sl st to join and fasten off.
Adding the Stem
The stem is one of my favorite details because it transforms a round shape into something unmistakably leaf-like.
Join yarn at the center base of the leaf. Ch 10 (or desired length — 8 to 12 chains works well depending on preference). Sl st back down the chain toward the leaf to create a neat, firm stem. Sl st into the base of the leaf to anchor. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Alternatively, you can crochet a small twisted cord for a more dimensional stem. Cut three strands of yarn approximately 10 inches long, hold them together, and twist firmly in one direction. Fold in half and allow the cord to twist back on itself. Tie a knot at each end. Attach to the leaf base with a yarn needle.
Finishing and Blocking
Weave in all yarn ends carefully using your yarn needle, going through several stitches in different directions to secure them. Trim any excess.
For blocking, wet your coaster thoroughly in cool water. Gently press out excess moisture — do not wring — then lay it flat on a foam blocking mat. Use blocking pins to shape the leaf, gently stretching each lobe to its point and pinning it in place. Allow to dry completely, which takes about 8–12 hours depending on humidity.
If you prefer steam blocking, lay the damp coaster on a towel, cover with a damp cloth, and hold a steam iron just above the surface. Do not press down — allow the steam to do the work. Then shape the coaster with your hands while it is still warm and pliable, and allow it to cool completely before removing.
The difference between a blocked and unblocked coaster is genuinely remarkable. Do not skip this step.
Color Inspiration
Half the fun of making a set of these coasters is choosing your colors. Here are a few palette ideas to spark your imagination.
Classic Autumn: Burnt orange, golden yellow, and deep rust red. These three shades together look stunning on a natural wood surface.
Forest Floor: Chocolate brown, olive green, and muted burgundy. More subdued and earthy, these read as sophisticated and cozy at the same time.
Bright Fall: Vivid pumpkin orange, bright canary yellow, and scarlet red. Bold and cheerful, this palette works beautifully in a modern home.
Late Season: Deep plum, dark teal, and muted gold. For those who love autumn but prefer a more jewel-toned interpretation.
Single Color Set: There is also something very elegant about making all your coasters in a single color — a deep burnt sienna or antique gold looks particularly beautiful against white linen.
Gifting Ideas
A set of four coasters tied together with a piece of raffia ribbon makes a lovely hostess gift for a fall dinner party. You can also pair them with a seasonal candle, a small jar of local honey, or a packet of artisan tea for a thoughtful handmade gift basket.
For a special presentation, arrange them in a small wooden serving tray or set them inside a decorative tin lined with tissue paper. If you are selling these at a craft fair, attaching a small card with the color names and care instructions adds a professional touch that buyers genuinely appreciate.
These coasters also make beautiful package toppers. Use one to embellish a wrapped gift instead of a bow — the recipient gets an extra present without you spending anything extra.
Caring for Your Coasters
Cotton coasters are wonderfully easy to care for. Machine wash on a gentle cycle in cool or warm water. Tumble dry on low or reshape and lay flat to dry. Avoid high heat in the dryer, which can cause cotton to shrink and stiffen. Most cotton yarns become softer with every wash, so these coasters will actually improve over time.
If a coaster loses its shape after washing, a quick re-blocking will restore it perfectly. Keep a set of foam blocking mats and pins on hand and it takes only a few minutes.
A Few Final Tips
If your leaf lobes are not lining up evenly, try marking each lobe base with a different colored stitch marker before you begin shaping. This makes it much easier to keep your place and ensures symmetrical results.
If you find the center of the leaf is pulling or cupping, try going up half a hook size for the initial rounds and switching back for the lobe shaping. This small adjustment can make a big difference in how the finished piece lies flat.
And if you are new to working short rows, do not be discouraged if your first attempt looks a little rough. The edging round does an enormous amount of work in tidying up the shape, so trust the process and finish before you judge.
Most importantly, enjoy the making. Autumn is a season that moves quickly, and there is something genuinely satisfying about having something handmade to show for it — something that sits on your table and reminds you to slow down and notice the beauty of the season while it is still here.
Happy crocheting, and happy autumn.
