Alternating Fern Stitch Knitting Pattern – Free Printable Knitting Chart

If you’ve been knitting for a while and feel ready to move beyond basic textures, the Alternating Fern Stitch is exactly the kind of pattern that will make your projects feel fresh and special. With its graceful, leaf-like motifs that mirror each other across rows, this stitch creates a fabric that looks intricate at first glance but is surprisingly approachable once you understand the rhythm of it. Whether you’re planning a cozy throw, a stylish scarf, or a classic dishcloth, the Alternating Fern Stitch brings a botanical elegance that never goes out of style.

In this post, you’ll find everything you need to get started: a full written pattern, a free printable knitting chart, helpful tips for reading the chart, and guidance on how to customize the stitch for different projects. Save this page, bookmark it, or print the chart — this is one pattern you’ll come back to again and again.

What Is the Alternating Fern Stitch?

The Alternating Fern Stitch is a lace-influenced knitting stitch that combines yarn-overs with decreases to create a pattern of diagonal lines that fan out like fern fronds. What makes the “alternating” version particularly beautiful is that the directional slant of each fern motif reverses between sections, producing a balanced, symmetrical design across the fabric. Rather than all the fronds leaning one way, they alternate left and right, creating a fuller, more botanical look.

The result is a stitch pattern that lies relatively flat, has a lovely drape, and catches light beautifully because of its open, lace-like columns. Depending on the yarn you choose, it can read as delicate and airy in a fine merino or substantial and cozy in a medium-weight wool.

This stitch pattern is suitable for intermediate knitters. You don’t need to have done much lace work before, but you should be comfortable with yarn-overs, knit-two-together (k2tog), and slip-slip-knit (ssk) decreases. If you’ve worked through a basic eyelet pattern before, you’ll find the Alternating Fern Stitch a natural and satisfying next step.

Materials and Yarn Recommendations

Before you dive in, gather your supplies. Here’s what you’ll want to have on hand.

Yarn: Any smooth yarn will work beautifully with this stitch because the lace columns need to show clearly. Avoid very fluffy or highly textured yarns for your first attempt, since they can obscure the pattern. A DK or worsted weight in a light-to-medium color will let you see every stitch clearly as you work. Some wonderful options include a smooth merino wool, a cotton-wool blend, or even a linen yarn for a crisp, summery version.

Needles: Use the needle size recommended on your yarn label, or go one size up if you want a slightly more open, drapey fabric. For a DK yarn, US size 5 or 6 (3.75mm or 4mm) is a good starting point.

Other tools: A row counter is helpful, especially if you’re working on a larger project. Stitch markers can be placed at the boundaries of each pattern repeat to keep you oriented. A blunt tapestry needle for weaving in ends rounds out your toolkit.

Gauge: Because the Alternating Fern Stitch is often used for decorative textiles rather than fitted garments, exact gauge is less critical than it would be for a sweater. That said, knitting a small swatch before starting a larger project is always worth the time. It helps you understand how the fabric behaves and gives you a chance to practice the stitch repeat before committing.

Understanding the Pattern Structure

The Alternating Fern Stitch is worked over a multiple of 10 stitches, plus 1 for balance. This means your cast-on should be a number like 21, 31, 41, 51, and so on. The pattern repeats every 12 rows, giving you one full cycle of the fern motif.

For a simple practice swatch, cast on 31 stitches. This gives you three full repeats of the 10-stitch pattern, plus 1 edge stitch, and it’s large enough to really see the motif take shape.

The pattern is made up of right-leaning decreases (k2tog), left-leaning decreases (ssk), and yarn-overs (yo) that compensate for each decrease so the stitch count stays constant. Every decrease is paired with a yarn-over, which is why the stitch count remains the same from row to row even as the fabric forms those elegant diagonal openings.

Rows 1 through 6 establish the first half of the fern motif, and rows 7 through 12 introduce the alternating direction. Together, they create the characteristic mirrored look that gives this stitch its name.

Written Pattern Instructions

Here is the full written pattern for the Alternating Fern Stitch. Read through the instructions once before you start so you have a sense of how the rows work together.

Abbreviations used:

• k = knit
• p = purl
• yo = yarn over
• k2tog = knit two together (right-leaning decrease)
• ssk = slip, slip, knit (left-leaning decrease)
• rep = repeat
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side

Cast on: A multiple of 10 stitches, plus 1 (e.g., 31 sts for a swatch)

Row 1 (RS): K1, yo, k3, ssk, k2tog, k3, yo, k1; rep from to end

Row 2 (WS): Purl all stitches

Row 3 (RS): K1, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k2tog, k2, yo, k2; rep from to end

Row 4 (WS): Purl all stitches

Row 5 (RS): K1, k2, yo, k1, ssk, k2tog, k1, yo, k3; rep from to end

Row 6 (WS): Purl all stitches

Row 7 (RS): K1, k3, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k4; rep from to end

Row 8 (WS): Purl all stitches

Row 9 (RS): K1, k2, k2tog, k1, yo, yo, k1, ssk, k2; rep from to end

Row 10 (WS): Purl across, working (p1, k1) into any double yarn-overs

Row 11 (RS): K1, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk; rep from to end

Row 12 (WS): Purl all stitches

Repeat rows 1 through 12 for the pattern.

Free Printable Knitting Chart

The chart below represents the 12-row pattern repeat over 10 stitches plus 1. Charts are read from bottom to top, and right-side rows are read from right to left. Wrong-side rows, which are all purl rows in this pattern, are read from left to right.

Chart Symbol Key:

• Empty square = knit on RS, purl on WS
• Circle (O) = yarn over (yo)
• Backslash (\) = k2tog (right-leaning decrease)
• Forward slash (/) = ssk (left-leaning decrease)

Row 12: . . . . . . . . . . .
Row 11: . . / . . O . O . \ .
Row 10: . . . . . . . . . . .
Row 9: . . \ . O O . . / . .
Row 8: . . . . . . . . . . .
Row 7: . . . O / \ O . . . .
Row 6: . . . . . . . . . . .
Row 5: . \ . O . . O . / . .
Row 4: . . . . . . . . . . .
Row 3: . \ O . . . . O / . .
Row 2: . . . . . . . . . . .
Row 1: O . . . / \ . . . O .

(Note: The dot (.) represents a knit stitch on right-side rows. This chart is formatted for screen readability — print a clean version using the printable PDF linked below or by copying this grid into a spreadsheet and formatting with square cells.)

Tips for printing your chart: Open a blank spreadsheet program, set all columns to equal width, and copy the symbols into individual cells. Use a clear font like Arial or Courier New at around 12–14 pt. Adding a light grid border around each cell makes the chart much easier to follow while you’re knitting. You can then print it on standard 8.5″ x 11″ paper and laminate it or keep it in a plastic sleeve to protect it from yarn fuzz and water.

How to Read the Chart While Knitting

If you’re newer to reading knitting charts, here’s a quick orientation. Start at the bottom right corner of the chart for row 1. Read that row from right to left as you knit across your right-side row. When you complete row 1, move up to row 2. Row 2 is a wrong-side row (all purls), so you read it from left to right. Continue moving upward through the chart, alternating direction with each row.

Each horizontal row in the chart represents one row of knitting, and each square represents one stitch. The chart shows only one repeat of the pattern, so if you’ve cast on for multiple repeats, simply repeat the symbols across each row as many times as needed before working the final balancing stitch on the left edge.

Placing a stitch marker every 10 stitches when you cast on helps you align with the chart. If you find your stitch count shifting, that’s usually a sign that a yarn-over has been missed or that a decrease was made without its paired yarn-over.

Tips for Success

Lace patterns are forgiving in many ways, but they do ask you to pay attention. Here are a few things that make a real difference when working the Alternating Fern Stitch.

Count your stitches regularly. At the end of every right-side row, count to make sure you have the correct number. Since each yarn-over adds a stitch and each decrease removes one, the count should stay stable. If you’re off by one, it’s usually easier to identify the issue while it’s fresh than several rows later.

Use a lifeline. If you’re working on a larger project, thread a thin smooth yarn or dental floss through all the stitches at the end of a completed 12-row repeat. If you make an error and need to rip back, you can only pull back to the lifeline, saving yourself from losing your work.

Keep your yarn-overs loose enough. One common struggle with lace stitches is that yarn-overs can get tight, especially if you’re a naturally tight knitter. Try consciously releasing your tension slightly on the yarn-over and the stitch after it. Blocking the finished fabric also opens up the lace beautifully.

Block your finished piece. This is perhaps the single most transformative step for any lace or semi-lace project. Wet blocking (soaking the piece in cool water and pinning it to dimensions as it dries) opens up the yarn-overs, evens the tension, and makes the fern motifs pop dramatically. A piece that looks muddy and indistinct off the needle can become stunning after blocking.

Project Ideas Using the Alternating Fern Stitch

Once you’ve practiced the stitch and feel comfortable with the 12-row repeat, the possibilities are wide open. Here are some projects that particularly suit the Alternating Fern Stitch.

Scarf or cowl: A simple rectangle or loop in this stitch makes a beautiful accessory. Work in a smooth fingering or DK weight yarn for a refined look, or use a plant-dyed indie yarn to really make the texture sing. A cowl worked in the round will require you to work all rows as right-side rows and adjust the purl instructions accordingly.

Baby blanket: Worked in a soft, washable merino at a larger gauge, this stitch makes a stunning heirloom-quality baby blanket. The open lace sections give the blanket breathability while the knit structure keeps it warm.

Table runner or placemat: Cotton yarn in a natural or muted color creates a crisp, classic table accessory with this stitch. The fern motifs feel right at home in a kitchen or dining room with botanical styling.

Shawl: If you’re comfortable with short rows or triangular shaping, try building a simple triangular shawl using the Alternating Fern Stitch for the body. Pair it with a garter stitch border for a clean finish.

Dishcloth: For a quick, satisfying project that lets you practice the pattern without a big commitment, cast on 31 stitches in a cotton yarn and work two or three full repeats of the 12-row pattern. It makes a lovely gift alongside a bar of handmade soap.

Troubleshooting Common Mistakes

Even experienced knitters run into snags with lace patterns. Here are the most common issues and how to fix them.

Stitch count keeps changing: The most likely cause is a missing yarn-over. Check that for every k2tog or ssk in a row, there is a corresponding yo. Re-read that row in the written pattern and compare it to what you knitted.

The pattern looks distorted: Before blocking, lace can look messy and hard to read. Trust the process, complete a full 12-row repeat, and do a test block on your swatch. You’ll likely find the pattern clarifies dramatically.

Yarn-overs disappearing: If your yarn-over slides off the needle unworked, try placing a stitch marker right after each yarn-over until you get used to them. On the following row, work to the marker, remove it, and purl the yarn-over.

Holes appear where you don’t want them: This usually means an accidental yarn-over somewhere in the row. If you can’t identify where it happened, try tinking (knitting backwards) stitch by stitch to the beginning of the row and trying again.

Adapting the Pattern for Circular Knitting

If you want to use the Alternating Fern Stitch in a project worked in the round, such as a hat, a circular shawl, or a seamless cowl, you’ll need to make one adjustment. Because you never turn the work, every round is a right-side round. This means the wrong-side rows, which in the flat version are simply purl rows, become knit rounds when worked in the round.

So wherever the written pattern says “Purl all stitches” for a WS row, you simply knit all stitches when working in the round. The RS rows stay exactly the same. With this adjustment, the Alternating Fern Stitch translates cleanly to circular knitting.

A Note on Yarn Choice and Color

Because the Alternating Fern Stitch relies on visual texture to tell its story, heavily variegated or self-striping yarns can sometimes compete with the pattern rather than enhance it. For your first project, a solid or semi-solid yarn in a medium value (not too dark, not too pale) will let the stitch shine clearly.

That said, once you’re confident with the pattern, don’t be afraid to experiment. A tonal or heathered yarn can give the fern motif a mossy, woodland quality that feels really special. Deep jewel tones in merino make it feel luxurious; pale naturals in linen make it feel fresh and modern. Part of the joy of having a versatile stitch pattern in your toolkit is testing it across different yarns and watching it transform.

Final Thoughts

The Alternating Fern Stitch is one of those patterns that rewards you at every stage. There’s the gentle puzzle of working through the 12-row repeat, the satisfaction of watching the fern shapes emerge from your needles, and then the real magic when you block the piece and the lace opens up into something genuinely beautiful. It’s also the kind of stitch that once you learn it, you carry with you. You’ll start seeing opportunities to use it everywhere.

Print out the chart, cast on a practice swatch, and give yourself permission to go slowly through the first repeat. By the time you reach row 12 for the first time and see those mirrored fronds looking back at you, you’ll understand why knitters keep returning to this