Free Amigurumi Crochet Patterns: Chrysanthemum Beginner Tutorial (With PDF Guide)

If you’ve been wanting to try amigurumi crochet but weren’t sure where to start, a chrysanthemum flower is one of the most rewarding beginner projects you can tackle. It’s forgiving, it’s beautiful, and once you finish your first one, you’ll want to make an entire bouquet. This tutorial walks you through everything — from the materials you’ll need to the final finishing touches — so that by the end, you’ll have a soft, dimensional chrysanthemum you’re genuinely proud of.

Whether you’re a complete beginner or someone who’s done a bit of crochet but never tried amigurumi before, this guide is written for you. We’ll explain every stitch clearly, offer tips for common mistakes, and provide a printable-friendly layout so you can save or print it as a reference PDF while you work.

What Is Amigurumi, and Why Start with a Flower?

Amigurumi (pronounced ah-mee-goo-ROO-mee) is the Japanese art of crocheting small stuffed figures. The word combines the Japanese words for “knitted” and “stuffed doll.” While most people associate amigurumi with adorable animals and characters, flowers — especially chrysanthemums — are a fantastic entry point because they use the same foundational techniques without requiring you to master complex shaping all at once.

Chrysanthemums are especially well-suited to amigurumi because their petals are made in repetitive, small strips that you then attach to a central disc. This means you’re practicing the same skill over and over, which is exactly how beginners build confidence and muscle memory. By the time you’ve finished your twentieth petal, you’ll be crocheting almost without looking at your hands.

The finished flower also has real versatility. You can use it as a brooch, hair clip, bag charm, home decoration, or give it as a handmade gift that lasts far longer than real flowers.

Materials You’ll Need

Before you start, gather everything so you’re not stopping mid-row to search for scissors. Here’s what you’ll need for one amigurumi chrysanthemum approximately 4–5 inches in diameter:

Yarn: Worsted weight (size 4) yarn works best for beginners because it’s easy to see your stitches. Choose two colors — one for the petals and one for the center. Classic choices include yellow and gold, white and cream, or pink and magenta. You’ll use the majority of your yarn on the petals, so plan accordingly.

Hook: A 3.5 mm or 4.0 mm crochet hook pairs well with worsted weight yarn. Check the label on your yarn for the recommended hook size. Going slightly smaller than recommended creates a tighter fabric, which is desirable in amigurumi so the stuffing doesn’t show through.

Stuffing: A small amount of polyester fiberfill for the center disc. You won’t need much — just enough to give the center a gentle dome shape.

Tapestry needle: For weaving in ends and sewing petals to the center.

Scissors: Sharp fabric scissors or embroidery scissors work best.

Stitch markers: Optional but helpful, especially for tracking the beginning of each round.

Pins: Helpful for positioning petals before sewing them down.

Understanding the Basic Stitches

If you’re brand new to crochet, here’s a quick breakdown of the stitches used in this pattern. If you already know these, feel free to skip ahead.

Magic ring (MR): Also called the magic circle or adjustable ring, this technique lets you start crocheting in the round without a visible hole at the center. It looks intimidating the first time but becomes second nature quickly. Make a loop with your yarn, hold the crossing point between your fingers, insert your hook through the loop, draw up a loop, and chain one to secure.

Chain (ch): The most basic crochet stitch. Yarn over (wrap yarn around hook), pull through the loop on your hook. One chain made.

Slip stitch (sl st): Insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion. Used to join rounds and move across stitches without adding height.

Single crochet (sc): Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. One single crochet made.

Half double crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops.

Double crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.

Treble crochet (tr): Yarn over twice, insert hook, yarn over, pull up a loop (four loops), yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.

Increase (inc): Two single crochets worked into the same stitch.

Decrease (dec) / invisible decrease: A technique for reducing stitch count. Insert hook through the front loop only of the next stitch, then through the front loop only of the stitch after that, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two loops. This creates a virtually invisible decrease.

The Pattern: Amigurumi Chrysanthemum

This pattern is written in American crochet terminology. The finished flower consists of a center disc and three layers of petals (inner, middle, and outer) for a full, lush appearance.

Part One: The Center Disc

Start with your center color yarn.

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 stitches)

Round 2: Work 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 stitches)

Round 3: (1 sc, inc) repeat around. (18 stitches)

Round 4: (2 sc, inc) repeat around. (24 stitches)

Round 5: (3 sc, inc) repeat around. (30 stitches)

Round 6: Work 1 sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches)

Round 7: (3 sc, dec) repeat around. (24 stitches)

Begin stuffing lightly with fiberfill as you work the next rounds.

Round 8: (2 sc, dec) repeat around. (18 stitches)

Round 9: (1 sc, dec) repeat around. (12 stitches)

Round 10: Dec around. (6 stitches)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use your tapestry needle to weave through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches, pull tight to close, and knot securely. Weave in the end.

You now have a small, plump disc that will be the center of your chrysanthemum.

Part Two: The Petals

Chrysanthemum petals are made individually and then sewn onto the center disc in concentric rings. This flower uses three sizes — small, medium, and large — to create depth and dimension.

Switch to your petal color yarn.

Small Petals (make 8)

Chain 7.

Row 1: Starting in the second chain from hook, work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. (6 stitches)

Do not turn. Working along the underside of the chain (the bottom bumps), work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. (6 stitches on the other side)

Slip stitch to join the beginning of Row 1. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

This creates a narrow, pointed oval shape — the inner petal.

Medium Petals (make 10)

Chain 9.

Row 1: Starting in the second chain from hook, work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. (7 stitches)

Do not turn. Working along the underside, work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. (7 stitches)

Slip stitch to join. Fasten off, leaving a tail.

Large Petals (make 12)

Chain 11.

Row 1: Starting in the second chain from hook, work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, 2 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. (8 stitches)

Do not turn. Working along the underside, work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 2 tr, 2 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc. (8 stitches)

Slip stitch to join. Fasten off, leaving a tail.

Part Three: Assembling the Chrysanthemum

This is where your flower truly comes to life, and taking your time here makes a big difference in the finished result.

Arranging the inner ring: Take your 8 small petals and arrange them evenly around the top of the center disc. Pin them in place before sewing. The base of each petal should sit at approximately Round 5 of the disc. Use your tapestry needle and the yarn tails to sew each petal down with several secure stitches, weaving the tail into the disc before cutting.

Adding the middle ring: Take your 10 medium petals and position them between and slightly below the small petals, so they fan out from beneath the first layer. Stagger them so no medium petal is directly behind a small petal — this creates the full, layered look of a real chrysanthemum. Sew each one securely.

Adding the outer ring: The 12 large petals form the outermost and lowest layer. Position these around the outer edge of the disc, fanning out generously and angling slightly downward to give the flower its cupped, rounded silhouette. Sew down firmly.

Once all petals are attached, take a moment to gently shape them with your fingers. Bend each petal slightly inward or curl the tip gently with a pencil or your finger. This small step adds remarkable realism.

Finishing Touches and Customization

Adding a backing: If you plan to use your chrysanthemum as a brooch or hair clip, cut a circle of felt in a matching or coordinating color slightly smaller than the base of your flower. Sew or hot-glue it to the underside to cover all the stitching, then attach your hardware (a safety pin or clip) through the felt and the crocheted disc.

Color variations: Chrysanthemums come in an incredible range of colors in nature, and your yarn choices can reflect that. Try a dusty mauve center with soft pink petals, or a deep burgundy with rust-orange petals for an autumn feel. White with a pale yellow center looks striking against dark backgrounds. Don’t be afraid to use variegated yarn for the petals — the shifting colors add natural dimension.

Sizing up or down: Use a bulkier yarn and larger hook for a dramatic, oversized flower suitable as a wall decoration. Go finer with a size 10 crochet thread and a steel hook for a delicate, miniature bloom you can use in jewelry.

Adding wire stems: Push a length of florist wire through the center disc from top to bottom, bend the top into a small loop, and pull it back snug against the flower. Wrap the wire in green floral tape, shaping a leaf or two as you go. This gives you a realistic crochet flower arrangement.

Common Beginner Mistakes and How to Fix Them

Petals curling inward too much: This usually means your tension is too tight. Try holding your yarn a little more loosely, or switch to a hook one size larger for the petals specifically.

Uneven petal placement: It helps to mark the positions with pins before sewing and to count the stitches between each petal so the spacing is consistent. Taking five extra minutes to plan the layout pays off enormously.

The center disc is lumpy: If your fiberfill isn’t distributed evenly, use a pencil or chopstick to push it gently into the edges before closing the final round.

Running out of yarn mid-petal: Always cut a length of yarn before you begin a petal to check it’s enough. A single medium petal uses roughly 1.5 yards of worsted weight yarn; a large petal uses about 2 yards. Wind off a small amount before starting each petal if you’re working from a large skein.

Magic ring coming loose: Make sure to pull your starting tail firmly and work your first six stitches consistently before tugging the ring closed. Once you’ve worked Round 2, the ring stays very secure.

How to Save This as a PDF

To save this tutorial as a reference PDF you can return to anytime, you have a few simple options depending on your device.

On a desktop or laptop, use your browser’s print function (usually Ctrl+P on Windows or Command+P on Mac), then select “Save as PDF” instead of a printer. Choose the page range that includes this article and click Save.

On a phone or tablet, most browsers offer a “Share” option that includes a “Print” or “Create PDF” feature. Tap through those options and save the file to your device or a cloud folder like Google Drive.

You can also copy the text directly into a word processing program like Google Docs or Microsoft Word, then export it as a PDF. This lets you add your own notes, adjust the font size, or highlight sections that apply to your specific yarn and hook combination.

Building Your Amigurumi Flower Garden

Once you’ve made one chrysanthemum, the temptation to make more is real. These flowers look stunning in clusters — try arranging three in graduated sizes, or mixing chrysanthemums with amigurumi sunflowers and daisies. Displayed in a small vase with a few crocheted leaves, they make a centerpiece that draws compliments every time.

They’re also a generous handmade gift. A single chrysanthemum attached to a wrapped present elevates the whole thing, and a bouquet of five or six takes only an afternoon to assemble once you have the technique down.

If you’d like to keep growing your amigurumi skills after this project, try working toward a full stuffed animal. The magic ring, increases, decreases, and in-the-round construction you’ve practiced here form the backbone of almost every amigurumi pattern that exists. You’ve already done the hard part — learning to trust the process.

A Few Final Tips for Happy Crocheting

Keep your tension as consistent as possible throughout the project, especially when making multiple petals, so they all come out the same size. Working in good lighting helps you see your stitches clearly and prevents eye strain. Taking breaks when your hands feel tight or your wrist aches is not laziness — it’s how you protect yourself from repetitive strain.

Most importantly, enjoy the process. Amigurumi is one of those crafts where the finished piece looks impressive but the work itself is genuinely relaxing once you get into a rhythm. The repetitive nature of petal-making is almost meditative, and that’s part of what keeps so many crocheters coming back to it.

Your first amigurumi chrysanthemum might not be perfect. That’s exactly as it should be. Make it anyway, learn from it, and make the next one with everything you discovered. Before long, you’ll have a skill you can return to for years — one small, beautiful flower at a time.