Free Crochet Hanging Plant Holder Pattern: Create Beautiful Macramé-Style Plant Hangers at Home
If you’ve been scrolling through home décor feeds lately, you’ve probably noticed that hanging plant holders are everywhere. They bring warmth, texture, and a touch of bohemian charm to any space, and the best part is that you don’t have to spend a fortune buying them. With just a crochet hook, some yarn or twine, and a free afternoon, you can make your own stunning hanging plant holder from scratch. This free crochet hanging plant holder pattern is designed for beginners and intermediate crafters alike, with clear step-by-step instructions, helpful tips, and creative ideas to customize your finished piece.
Whether you want to display a trailing pothos in your living room, hang a small succulent planter near a sunny window, or create a collection of holders at different heights for a dramatic display, this pattern has you covered. Let’s get started.
Why Crochet a Hanging Plant Holder?
Before we dive into the pattern itself, let’s talk about why crocheting your own plant hanger is such a satisfying and practical choice.
First, it’s incredibly affordable. Store-bought macramé and crochet plant hangers can run anywhere from fifteen to sixty dollars or more, especially for handmade versions from artisan shops. When you make your own, you control the cost entirely. A single ball of cotton twine or jute yarn is usually enough for one or two hangers, and both are widely available at craft stores and online for just a few dollars.
Second, you can customize everything. The size, the stitch pattern, the length of the hanging cords, the color, the fringe detail at the bottom — all of it is completely up to you. Want a minimalist look in neutral cream? Go for it. Prefer something with a pop of terracotta or sage green to complement your plant pots? You can do that too. Crocheting your own holder means your home décor is genuinely one of a kind.
Third, the craft itself is deeply relaxing. There’s something meditative about working through a repetitive stitch pattern while watching something grow in your hands. Many crafters find crochet to be a wonderful way to decompress after a busy day, and having a beautiful, functional finished object at the end makes it even more rewarding.
Finally, handmade gifts are always special. A crocheted plant holder paired with a small potted succulent or air plant makes a thoughtful, personal present for housewarming parties, birthdays, or the holidays.
Materials You’ll Need
Before you begin, gather everything you need so you’re not scrambling mid-project.
Yarn or Twine: The best materials for a plant holder are sturdy and somewhat stiff so they hold their shape. Cotton macramé cord (3mm to 5mm thickness), jute twine, or chunky cotton yarn all work beautifully. Avoid acrylic or wool yarns for functional hangers since they tend to stretch when weight is added. For a more decorative hanger that won’t hold a heavy pot, softer cotton yarn in a worsted weight is perfectly fine.
Crochet Hook: For macramé cord or jute twine, a size 5mm to 6mm (US H-8 or J-10) hook is ideal. For chunky cotton yarn, try a 6mm to 8mm hook. The exact size matters less here than finding a hook that feels comfortable and creates a firm, even fabric that won’t sag.
Scissors: Sharp scissors make a difference, especially if you’re working with rougher jute or cord.
Tapestry Needle: You’ll use this for weaving in any ends neatly so your finished hanger looks polished.
A Metal or Wooden Ring: A 2-inch to 3-inch ring at the top makes hanging the holder so much easier and gives it a tidy, professional finish. Macramé rings, curtain rings, or even a sturdy carabiner can work.
Plant Pot: Before you start, have your pot on hand so you can check the sizing as you go. This pattern is designed to fit a pot with a diameter of roughly 4 to 6 inches, which covers most standard small-to-medium planters.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
If you’re familiar with basic crochet stitches, this pattern will feel very approachable. Here’s a quick reference for all the abbreviations used:
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
dc — double crochet
hdc — half double crochet
st — stitch
sp — space
rep — repeat
pm — place marker
All stitches are worked in US crochet terminology. If you’re used to UK terms, note that US single crochet equals UK double crochet, and US double crochet equals UK treble crochet.
Understanding the Structure of a Crochet Plant Holder
A crocheted hanging plant holder has three main sections: the top loop and hanging cords, the body or cradle that holds the pot, and the decorative base or fringe at the bottom. Once you understand how these three parts work together, the pattern becomes very intuitive and you can easily modify it to suit different pot sizes or styles.
The top section creates the structural anchor — either a ring of chains or loops attached to a physical ring — from which everything else hangs. The body is crocheted in the round, expanding outward to create a net-like or solid cradle that cups the pot securely. The bottom section cinches inward beneath the pot and often ends in a fringe or tassel detail for a decorative finish.
Free Crochet Hanging Plant Holder Pattern
Section One: The Hanging Loop and Top Ring
Begin by attaching your yarn or cord to the metal ring with a slip knot, leaving a 6-inch tail for weaving in later.
Round 1: Work 24 single crochet stitches around the ring, covering it completely. Join with a slip stitch to the first sc to close the round. (24 sts)
If you’re not using a ring, you can instead chain 8 and join with a slip stitch to form a loop, then work 24 sc around that loop.
From this ring, you’ll now create the hanging cords that form the upper section of the hanger and allow you to adjust the length so the pot sits at whatever height you like.
Hanging Cords (make 4): Divide your 24 stitches into 4 groups of 6. For each group, chain 20 (or more if you want longer cords) and then slip stitch back into the 6th stitch of that group to form a loop cord. You’ll have 4 hanging cords evenly spaced around the ring, which come together at the top for hanging. Alternatively, at this stage you can simply cut four long lengths of cord (about 18 inches each), fold them in half, and attach them to the ring with lark’s head knots in the macramé style. Both methods work well.
Section Two: The Body (Crocheted in the Round)
The body is where the main crocheting happens. You’ll work in joined rounds from the top down, expanding to create the cup shape.
Foundation Round: Join your yarn to the bottom of the hanging cord section or to a new round of chains that will form the top edge of the cradle. Chain 6, then join with a slip stitch to form a ring. (6 ch ring)
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 11 more dc into the ring. Join with a sl st to the top of the ch-3. (12 dc)
Round 2: Ch 3, dc in the same stitch. Work 2 dc in each stitch around. Join with a sl st to top of ch-3. (24 dc)
Round 3: Ch 3, dc in the same stitch. Dc in next st, 2 dc in next st. Repeat from to around. Join. (36 dc)
Round 4: Ch 1. Sc in next 3 sts, ch 5, skip 3 sts. Repeat from to around. You should have 6 ch-5 spaces and 6 groups of 3 sc. Join with a sl st. This creates the open mesh or net look that gives the plant holder its airy character.
Round 5: Sl st into the first ch-5 space. Ch 3, work 4 more dc into the same space. Work 5 dc into the next ch-5 space. Repeat around. Join. (30 dc total across 6 shell groups)
Round 6: Ch 1. Sc in each dc around. Join. (30 sc)
Round 7: Ch 7, skip 4 sts, sc in next st. Repeat around, ending with ch 7, join to first ch. This creates 6 large open loops that form the sides of the cradle. These loops are what the pot actually rests within, so check your pot size at this point. If your pot is on the larger side, increase to ch 9 per loop.
Rounds 8 and 9: Continue sc around the chain loops, working into each chain and sc of the previous round without any increases or decreases. This builds up the sides of the cradle. After two rounds of straight sc, your plant pot should sit comfortably inside the crocheted body. Test the fit and add another round if needed.
Section Three: The Base and Fringe
The base cinches below the bottom of the pot and creates the decorative lower portion of the hanger.
Round 10 (Decrease Round): Sc2tog (single crochet two together), sc in next 3 sts. Repeat around. This pulls the bottom of the cradle inward so the pot doesn’t fall through. Join. Check again that the pot sits snugly but not too tightly.
Round 11: Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts. Repeat around. Join.
Round 12: Sc2tog around until you have roughly 6 stitches remaining. Cut your yarn, leaving a long tail, and draw the tail through all remaining loops to close the bottom, just as you would close the toe of a knitted sock. Pull firmly and weave in the end securely on the inside.
Optional Fringe: Cut 12 to 16 lengths of cord, each about 12 inches long. Fold each piece in half and use your hook to pull the folded loop through a stitch at the very bottom of the holder, then thread the cut ends through the loop and pull to knot. Trim all the fringe to the same length for a tidy finish, or trim at a slight angle for a more bohemian, layered look.
How to Hang Your Finished Plant Holder
Once your holder is complete, thread all four hanging cords (or loops) through the top ring and knot them together, or tie them directly to a ceiling hook, tension rod, curtain rail, or plant hanger bracket. Adjust the length of your cords before you make the final knot so the pot sits at just the right height.
For outdoor use on a covered porch or balcony, make sure you use a waterproof or weather-resistant cord like jute or outdoor cotton. Avoid hanging in direct rain, since most natural fiber cords will eventually degrade with extended moisture exposure.
Tips for Success
Work with tension that’s firm but not so tight that your stitches are difficult to insert the hook into. Plant holders need to hold weight, so looser, floppy tension won’t give you the structural support you need.
Block your finished holder before inserting the pot. Simply dampen the crocheted piece with water, shape it gently over the pot or a similar-sized bowl, and let it dry completely. This sets the shape beautifully and evens out any uneven stitching.
If your pot slips through the cradle bottom, work an extra decrease round or add a row of sc around the base to tighten things up.
Use a pot with a drainage saucer if your holder will be indoors, since water dripping through can stain or damage the cord over time.
Creative Variations to Try
Once you’ve mastered the basic pattern, the world of crocheted plant holders opens up in all kinds of exciting directions.
You can try a striped version by alternating two colors every two rounds. Neutral cream paired with a dusty terracotta or soft sage makes for a stunning combination that works with almost any home décor style.
A macramé-crochet hybrid is another beautiful option. Use the basic crocheted ring at the top, then work the hanging cords and some of the body using macramé knotting techniques like the square knot or half-hitch. The two crafts complement each other perfectly and give you even more texture to play with.
For a more structured, solid look instead of the open mesh style, work the body entirely in single crochet without the chain spaces. This creates a more enclosed cradle that’s great for pots without drainage holes since the solid fabric prevents any soil from spilling through.
You can also add decorative beads to the fringe at the bottom by threading them onto the fringe cords before trimming. Wooden beads, ceramic beads, or even large shell beads all look gorgeous against natural jute or cream cotton cord.
Plant Suggestions for Your Finished Holder
Part of the joy of making a plant holder is thinking about what plant will live in it. Some plants are particularly well-suited to hanging positions because they trail gracefully or tolerate the slightly drier conditions that come with elevated planters.
Pothos, also known as devil’s ivy, is practically foolproof and looks stunning trailing down from a hanging holder. String of pearls is a showstopper in a crocheted hanger, with its delicate bead-like leaves cascading over the sides. Spider plants are another classic choice — they’re resilient, grow quickly, and produce charming little offshoots that hang down like natural decorations. Trailing succulents like burro’s tail or sedum are lower maintenance and perfect for bright, sunny spots near windows.
For a more dramatic look, a small fern or a heart-leaf philodendron will fill out the holder beautifully and bring lush, tropical energy to any room.
How to Care for Your Crochet Plant Holder
Natural fiber plant holders are durable when cared for properly. If they become dusty, spot-clean them gently with a damp cloth rather than soaking them fully, which can cause the fibers to weaken or the color to fade. If your holder becomes misshapen over time, repeat the blocking process — dampen, reshape over the pot, and let it dry — and it will look as good as new.
Rotate your plant a quarter turn every week or so to ensure even light exposure, and lift the entire holder, pot and all, to water rather than watering in place to keep the cord from becoming saturated.
Final Thoughts
A crocheted hanging plant holder is one of those projects that gives you an enormous amount of satisfaction for a relatively small time investment. From casting on your first chain to hanging the finished piece on your wall and nestling a plant inside, the whole process is creative, calming, and completely rewarding. The pattern above is designed to be flexible, so don’t be afraid to experiment with different yarn weights, colors, stitch variations, or sizes as you grow in confidence.
If you make this pattern, share a photo of your finished holder — seeing how different crafters interpret the same basic design is always inspiring, and your version might spark someone else’s next project. Happy crocheting, and may every plant in your home find the perfect home in a handmade holder.
