Hanging Monstera Basket: Free Crochet Pattern for a Stunning Plant Hanger
If you’ve been searching for a crochet project that combines your love of fiber arts with your passion for houseplants, this hanging monstera basket pattern is exactly what you need. This stunning plant hanger is designed to showcase your beloved monstera or any trailing plant, creating a boho-chic focal point in any room. Whether you’re a beginner looking to stretch your skills or an intermediate crocheter ready for a satisfying weekend project, this pattern walks you through every step with clear instructions and helpful tips along the way.
Plant hangers have seen a massive resurgence in popularity, and for good reason. They save valuable floor and shelf space, draw the eye upward to make rooms feel taller, and give plants the airflow and light they crave. When you make your own, you get the added satisfaction of creating something functional and beautiful entirely by hand. Let’s get into everything you need to know before your hook hits the yarn.
What You’ll Need: Materials and Tools
Before you cast on your first stitch, gather your supplies. Having everything ready before you begin makes the process smooth and enjoyable.
Yarn: For this pattern, you’ll want a natural fiber rope or macramé-style yarn. Cotton rope in a 3mm to 5mm thickness works beautifully because it’s sturdy enough to hold a potted plant and gives the basket a clean, structured look. You’ll need approximately 200 to 250 yards depending on the size of your pot. A single-strand cotton macramé cord in an off-white or natural cream color is the most popular choice for this style, but sage green, terracotta, or dusty blush all look incredible depending on your home’s aesthetic.
Hook: A 5mm or 6mm crochet hook is ideal for this weight of cord. If you find the work feels too tight, size up; if it’s too loose and floppy, size down. The fabric should feel dense and sturdy, not stiff.
Pot: A nursery pot or decorative pot between 5 and 8 inches in diameter fits this pattern perfectly. A 6-inch pot is the sweet spot. Make sure your pot has drainage holes if you’ll be watering in place.
Additional supplies: A large tapestry needle or yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, a stitch marker, and a wooden ring or metal ring between 2 and 3 inches in diameter for the hanging loop at the top. You can also use a decorative wooden bead or a piece of driftwood for a more organic look.
Gauge: 12 single crochet stitches and 14 rows = 4 inches in the round, using your chosen hook and cord. Because this is a functional item rather than a garment, gauge is more of a guide than a strict requirement. What matters is that your basket is dense enough to hold its shape and support your plant.
Crochet Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
This pattern is written using standard US crochet terminology. Here’s a quick reference for every abbreviation you’ll encounter:
ch = chain, sl st = slip stitch, sc = single crochet, dc = double crochet, hdc = half double crochet, sc2tog = single crochet two together (decrease), MR = magic ring, st = stitch, sp = space, rep = repeat, pm = place marker, BLO = back loop only, rnd = round
Pattern Notes Before You Begin
This basket is worked from the bottom up in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Use a stitch marker to track the beginning of each round. The sides of the basket are worked in back loops only to create a ribbed texture that mimics the deeply ridged veins of a monstera leaf, which is a lovely little design detail that ties the whole piece together thematically.
The hanging cords are attached last and can be adjusted in length to suit your space. If you want the plant to hang close to the ceiling, make the cords longer. If you prefer a lower hang, shorten them accordingly.
The Pattern: Step by Step
Part One: The Base
Begin with a magic ring. This creates a seamless, tight center for the bottom of your basket.
Round 1: Make 6 sc into the magic ring. Pull the tail to close the ring. (6 stitches)
Round 2: 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 stitches)
Round 3: Sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st. Repeat from to around. (18 stitches)
Round 4: Sc in the next 2 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Repeat from to around. (24 stitches)
Round 5: Sc in the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Repeat from to around. (30 stitches)
Round 6: Sc in the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Repeat from to around. (36 stitches)
Round 7: Sc in the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Repeat from to around. (42 stitches)
Round 8: Sc in the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next st. Repeat from to around. (48 stitches)
At the end of Round 8, you should have a flat circle approximately 5 to 5.5 inches in diameter. If your circle is curling upward, your tension may be a bit tight, which is actually fine for this project since the base needs to be firm.
Part Two: The Sides
Now you’ll transition from the flat base to the upright walls of the basket. This is where the BLO detail comes in.
Round 9: Working in BLO only, sc in each stitch around. (48 stitches) — This round creates the crisp, defined fold that separates the base from the sides.
Rounds 10 through 14: Sc in each stitch around, working through both loops as usual. (48 stitches each round)
Round 15: Sc in the next 6 sts, sc2tog. Repeat from to around. (42 stitches) — This gentle decrease begins to taper the sides inward slightly so the basket cups around your pot and holds it securely.
Rounds 16 through 18: Sc in each stitch around. (42 stitches each round)
Round 19: Sc in the next 5 sts, sc2tog. Repeat from to around. (36 stitches)
Rounds 20 and 21: Sc in each stitch around. (36 stitches each round)
At this point, try fitting your pot inside the basket. You want it snug but not impossible to remove. The top of the basket should sit just below or level with the rim of your pot. If you need more height, add one or two additional rounds of plain sc before moving on.
Part Three: The Rim
The rim adds structure and a finished look to the top edge. It also creates the anchor points for your hanging cords.
Round 22: Dc in the next 3 sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts. Repeat from to around. You should have 6 chain-2 spaces evenly distributed around the rim. Sl st to the first dc to close the round.
Round 23: Sl st around the entire rim, including into the ch-2 spaces. Fasten off and weave in your end.
Those six chain-2 spaces are where your hanging cords will be attached in the next section.
Part Four: Making and Attaching the Hanging Cords
Cut six lengths of your cotton rope, each approximately 36 inches long. You can make them longer if you want a more dramatic hang.
Take one length and fold it in half. Insert the folded midpoint up through one of the chain-2 spaces from the inside to the outside, then bring both tail ends through the loop and pull snug. This creates a lark’s head knot that attaches the cord to the rim. Repeat for all six chain-2 spaces.
You now have 12 cord ends hanging from the rim. Working in pairs, take one cord from one attachment point and one cord from the adjacent attachment point. Tie them together with an overhand knot approximately 8 inches below the rim. Repeat around so you have six knots total, forming a cradle that will support the base of the pot.
Gather all 12 cord ends together above the basket and thread them through your wooden or metal ring. Tie a large overhand knot just below the ring to secure everything, leaving a few inches of fringe below the knot for a decorative finish, or trim them close if you prefer a cleaner look.
Your hanging basket is complete.
Sizing Adjustments for Different Pots
One of the best things about this pattern is how easily it scales up or down. For a smaller 4-inch pot, stop increasing at Round 6 (36 stitches) for the base and work fewer rows on the sides. For a larger 8-inch pot, add one or two more increase rounds to the base, going up to 54 or 60 stitches, and add more rows to the sides accordingly.
The principle is simple: your base should roughly match the bottom diameter of your pot, and your sides should be tall enough that the pot sits securely without tipping.
Tips for Success
Working with cotton rope or macramé cord is a little different from working with traditional yarn. The material is less stretchy and can feel stiff at first, but your hands will adjust. Keep your tension consistent and don’t worry if the first round or two feels awkward. Cotton cord softens with handling and becomes easier to work as you go.
If you find your stitch marker keeps slipping out, use a locking stitch marker or a small piece of contrasting yarn tied loosely around the stitch. This is especially helpful when working in the round with a cord that doesn’t have much grip.
Weave in your ends securely. Unlike stretchy wool that can be anchored with a simple knot, cotton cord can work its way loose over time. Thread the tail through your tapestry needle and weave it in multiple directions through several stitches before trimming.
When testing whether your pot fits snugly, remember that the basket will relax slightly when weight is applied. A snug fit at this stage usually translates to a perfect fit once the plant is inside.
Plant Styling Ideas for Your Hanging Monstera Basket
While this basket was designed with monstera in mind, it works beautifully for a wide range of houseplants. Pothos, heartleaf philodendron, string of pearls, scindapsus, and even small fiddle-leaf figs all look gorgeous suspended in a handmade crochet basket.
For a monstera, choose a deliciosa or adansonii. The adansonii, with its fenestrated, trailing vines, is particularly striking in a hanging planter because its leaves cascade beautifully over the rim. Hang it near a bright window with indirect light, and it will reward you with lush, dramatic growth.
Style-wise, consider hanging two or three baskets at different heights in a corner to create a living wall effect. Mix natural cotton with a dyed sage green basket and a terracotta-colored one for visual variety while keeping a cohesive earthy palette. You can add wooden beads to the hanging cords before tying the final knot for an extra boho touch, or weave in a few dried flowers along the rim for a seasonal accent.
Caring for Your Crochet Plant Hanger
Cotton holds up well to indoor use, but there are a few things to keep in mind. Avoid getting the basket saturated with water regularly, as this can weaken the fibers over time and cause mildew. Use a drip tray inside your pot and water your plant in the sink before returning it to the hanger, or use a pot with drainage and let it dry before rehung.
If your basket does need cleaning, hand wash it gently in cool water with a mild soap, reshape it while damp, and allow it to air dry completely before putting the plant back in.
Over time, cotton cord develops a lovely, slightly softened patina that only adds to its character. Some crocheters actually prefer an aged cotton hanger to a brand-new one because it looks more natural and lived-in.
Why Make Your Own Instead of Buying One
There are hundreds of plant hangers available to purchase online, so why go to the effort of making one yourself? The answer is everything that mass production can’t give you: the exact size you need, the precise color that matches your space, and the irreplaceable satisfaction of making something with your own hands that does something real in the world.
When you make this basket, you’re joining a long tradition of fiber artists who understood that functional objects can also be beautiful, and beautiful objects can also be useful. Every stitch is a small act of intention, and the finished piece carries that with it in a way no factory product ever can.
Beyond the sentimental, there’s also a practical argument. Custom sizing means your plant actually fits. You’re not hunting for a hanger that works with a 6.5-inch nursery pot; you’re making one that’s built for exactly that pot. And if you decide to repot your monstera into something larger next spring, you can simply make a new one, maybe in a different color to mark the occasion.
Sharing Your Finished Project
If you make this hanging monstera basket, share it! Tag your photos on Instagram or Pinterest with something like #crochetplanthanger or #hangingmonsterapattern so other plant and crochet lovers can find your work. Seeing finished projects from real makers is one of the most inspiring parts of the crochet community, and your version might be exactly the encouragement someone else needs to cast on their first round.
Leave a comment below if you have questions about the pattern, want to share how your basket turned out, or if you’ve made any modifications. This pattern is intentionally flexible, so I’d love to hear what creative variations you’ve come up with. Happy hooking, and may your monsteras flourish.
