Free Crochet Sunflower Pattern for Beautiful Amigurumi Flowers

There is something about sunflowers that feels undeniably cheerful. Their bold yellow petals, dark centers, and tendency to turn toward the light make them one of the most beloved flowers in the world, and it turns out they translate beautifully into crochet. Whether you want to make a standalone decorative piece, add a floral accent to a bag or hat, or build out a collection of amigurumi flowers for a bouquet that never wilts, this free crochet sunflower pattern has everything you need to get started.

This pattern is beginner-friendly but detailed enough to satisfy more experienced crocheters who want a polished, professional-looking result. You will work in rounds to create a textured center disc, then attach individual petals that give the flower its signature full, layered look. By the end, you will have a sunflower that looks stunning propped in a vase, attached to a headband, displayed on a shelf, or gifted to someone who needs a little sunshine in their day.

What Is Amigurumi Crochet?

If you are new to the term, amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed animals, objects, and characters. The word combines the Japanese terms for “knitted” and “stuffed doll,” and the technique has become wildly popular in the global crafting community over the past two decades.

Amigurumi flowers follow the same principles: you work in tight rounds using a smaller hook than you might typically choose for the yarn weight, which creates a firm, dense fabric that holds its shape beautifully. Sunflowers are one of the most popular amigurumi flower patterns because of their bold silhouette and the satisfying way the petals fan out around the center.

Materials You Will Need

Before you dive in, gather everything listed here. Having your supplies organized before you start will make the process much smoother.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (Category 4) works wonderfully for this pattern. You will need yellow or golden yellow for the petals, dark brown or chocolate brown for the center disc, and optionally green for a stem or leaves. The exact amount depends on how large you want your sunflower, but approximately 30 to 40 yards of yellow and 15 to 20 yards of brown should be more than enough for one medium-sized flower.

Crochet hook: A 3.5mm or 4mm hook is recommended. The smaller hook creates that lovely tight stitch that helps the flower hold its shape without stuffing.

Stuffing: A small amount of polyfill stuffing is useful if you want the center disc to have a slightly raised, dimensional look.

Tapestry needle: For weaving in ends and attaching pieces.

Scissors: Any pair will do.

Stitch marker: Optional but helpful for keeping track of your rounds.

Safety eyes or embroidery thread: If you want to add a cute face to your amigurumi sunflower, a pair of 9mm or 12mm safety eyes works perfectly, or you can embroider a simple expression using black thread.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.

MR — Magic ring (also called magic circle)
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
hdc — Half double crochet
dc — Double crochet
inc — Increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
FLO — Front loop only
BLO — Back loop only
st — Stitch
rnd — Round

Pattern Notes

Read through the entire pattern before you begin. This will help you understand how the pieces fit together and avoid any surprises mid-project.

The center disc is worked first, in rounds. After the disc is complete, the petals are worked separately or directly into the back loops of the disc, depending on which method you prefer. Both approaches are explained in this pattern so you can choose the one that works best for you.

When working in rounds, do not join at the end of each round unless specifically instructed. Instead, work in a continuous spiral. Use a stitch marker to keep track of where each round begins.

Gauge is not critical for this pattern, but if your stitches feel too loose and the stuffing shows through, try moving down half a hook size.

Part One: The Center Disc

The center disc is the heart of your sunflower. It should be firm and slightly rounded on the front, with a flat back.

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the tail to close. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each stitch around. (12 sts)

Round 3: Sc 1, inc — repeat around. (18 sts)

Round 4: Sc 2, inc — repeat around. (24 sts)

Round 5: Sc 3, inc — repeat around. (30 sts)

Round 6: Sc 4, inc — repeat around. (36 sts)

At this point, your disc should measure roughly 3 inches across. If you want a larger sunflower, continue with one or two more increase rounds following the same pattern. For a smaller flower, stop at Round 4 or 5.

Round 7: Work one round of sc in BLO (back loop only) around. (36 sts)

This BLO round is important — it creates a visual ridge around the edge of the disc and also leaves the front loops free, which you will use to attach the petals later.

Round 8: Sc 4, sc2tog — repeat around. (30 sts)

If you are adding stuffing, do so now, pushing a small amount of polyfill into the disc to give it a slightly puffed appearance. Do not overstuff — you want a gentle dome shape, not a ball.

Round 9: Sc 3, sc2tog — repeat around. (24 sts)

Round 10: Sc 2, sc2tog — repeat around. (18 sts)

Round 11: Sc 1, sc2tog — repeat around. (12 sts)

Round 12: Sc2tog around. (6 sts)

Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. Use the tapestry needle to close the remaining 6 stitches by weaving the tail through each stitch and pulling tight. Weave in the end.

Part Two: The Petals

Sunflower petals are one of the most satisfying parts of this pattern. They are worked individually and then attached around the disc, or you can work them directly into the front loops left behind from Round 7 of the disc. Both methods are covered below.

Method A: Separate Petals

Make 12 to 16 petals for a full, lush sunflower. Twelve gives a lovely result; 16 creates a slightly more layered effect.

For each petal:

Foundation: Ch 8.

Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, sl st 1, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st 1. Do not turn.

Row 2: Working along the opposite side of the foundation chain, sl st 1, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st 1.

Fasten off, leaving a tail for attaching. This creates a narrow, pointed oval petal with good structure.

For a slightly wider, rounder petal, try this variation:

Foundation: Ch 10.

Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc 1, hdc 2, dc 3, hdc 2, sc 1, sl st 1. Do not turn.

Row 2: Working along the opposite side of the foundation chain, sc 1, hdc 2, dc 3, hdc 2, sc 1, sl st 1.

Fasten off and leave a tail.

Once all your petals are made, pin them evenly around the back of the center disc, tucking the base of each petal just slightly under the edge. Use the tapestry needle and the yarn tails to sew each petal securely in place. Make sure the spacing is as even as possible, which is easiest to achieve by placing four petals at the north, south, east, and west positions first, then filling in between.

Method B: Petals Worked Into the Disc

If you prefer to avoid sewing multiple separate pieces, you can work the petals directly into the front loops you left open in Round 7.

After completing the disc, join your yellow yarn to any front loop in Round 7.

For each petal worked directly into the disc:

In the front loop, ch 9, then starting in the second chain from the hook: sl st 1, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st 1 back into the same front loop. Then sl st into the next front loop to move to the starting position for the next petal.

Repeat this process, working one petal into every other front loop (or every loop, depending on how full you want the flower to look). Fasten off and weave in ends when all petals are complete.

Part Three: Second Layer of Petals (Optional)

For an especially full, show-stopping sunflower, add a second, shorter layer of petals behind the first. These can be slightly shorter or the same length, positioned to peek out between the gaps in the first layer.

To create a shorter petal, use the same basic petal pattern but start with ch 6 instead of ch 8, and adjust the stitch counts accordingly. Attach these petals behind the first layer, staggering them so they fill in the spaces.

This two-layer approach is particularly beautiful when displayed in a vase or used as a centerpiece, where viewers will see the flower from multiple angles.

Part Four: Adding a Stem and Leaves (Optional)

If you want a full amigurumi sunflower rather than a flat decorative piece, adding a stem and leaves completes the look perfectly.

Stem: Using green yarn and the same 3.5mm or 4mm hook, make a magic ring and sc 6. Work in a continuous spiral, sc in each stitch around, for as many rounds as you need to reach your desired stem length. Stuff lightly as you go. Fasten off and sew the stem to the back of the flower.

Leaf: Ch 12. Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc 1, hdc 2, dc 3, hdc 2, sc 1, sl st 2. Do not turn. Work along the opposite side of the foundation chain: sc 1, hdc 2, dc 3, hdc 2, sc 1, sl st 2. Fasten off and sew to the stem at whatever position looks natural.

Make two or three leaves for a lush effect, alternating them along the stem.

How to Display Your Crochet Sunflower

One of the best things about this pattern is how versatile the finished sunflower is. Here are some ideas for showing it off.

A single sunflower propped in a small bud vase on a windowsill makes a lovely year-round decoration. You can wire the stem to a real or decorative twig for extra stability.

Make a whole bouquet of sunflowers in different sizes and arrange them with greenery in a mason jar for a rustic farmhouse centerpiece that requires zero maintenance.

Sew a sunflower directly onto a crocheted or knitted hat for a charming accessory that works for both children and adults.

Attach a brooch pin to the back of the flower (without the stem) and wear it on a jacket lapel or tote bag.

Use sunflowers as gift wrap toppers instead of bows — they are far more memorable and can be kept long after the gift is opened.

Create a garland by making a dozen sunflowers and stringing them along a length of twine for a cheerful wall decoration, party banner, or nursery accent.

Tips for a Beautiful Finished Flower

A few small things will make a big difference in how your finished sunflower looks.

Use a stitch marker consistently. Losing track of your rounds is the easiest way to end up with an uneven disc, and the stitch marker takes all the guesswork out of it.

Weave in your ends carefully and thoroughly. Because amigurumi pieces are often handled more than, say, a blanket or scarf, loose ends can work their way out over time. Weave each tail through several stitches in different directions before trimming close.

Block your petals lightly if they feel stiff or curl in the wrong direction. A quick mist of water and gentle reshaping followed by air drying works wonders on cotton or cotton-blend yarn. Acrylic yarn can be “killed” (relaxed) with steam from an iron held just above the surface.

Do not skip the BLO round on the disc. It seems like a small detail, but it creates the visual definition between the center and the petals that makes the flower look finished and intentional.

Yarn Substitutions and Color Ideas

The obvious choice is a warm golden yellow for the petals with a deep brown for the center, but there is so much room to play here.

A burnt orange or rust yellow gives the flower an autumnal feel that is beautiful for fall decorating. Pairing pale yellow petals with a black or very dark navy center creates a dramatic, graphic look. If you want to lean into fantasy, try burgundy or deep purple petals — these are especially popular in modern amigurumi communities and look incredible in styled flat-lay photos.

For the center disc, texture yarn or chenille adds a velvet-like richness that looks stunning and photographs beautifully. If you use a fuzzy or textured yarn for the center, keep the petals in a smooth yarn so the contrast really shows.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make this sunflower with fingering weight yarn? Absolutely. Use a 2mm or 2.5mm hook and expect a much smaller finished flower, which is lovely for jewelry, ornaments, or miniature bouquets.

How do I wash my finished sunflower? Check the care label on your specific yarn. Most acrylic yarns are machine washable on a gentle cycle in a mesh laundry bag. Cotton and natural fibers may need hand washing. Always lay flat to dry to preserve the shape.

Can I sell items made from this pattern? Yes! This is a free pattern for personal and small-scale commercial use. If you sell finished items made from this pattern, a credit back to this page is always appreciated.

My petals are curling inward — how do I fix it? This usually happens when your tension is too tight. Try loosening your grip on the yarn or moving up half a hook size for the petals only.

How do I make the flower bigger? Add more increase rounds to the center disc and lengthen the foundation chain on each petal. The relationship between the disc size and petal length is what gives the flower its proportions, so scale both together.

Final Thoughts

This free crochet sunflower pattern is the kind of project that sneaks up on you — what starts as a quick afternoon make often turns into a whole collection of flowers before you know it. They are fast, satisfying, and genuinely beautiful, which is a rare combination in any craft project.

Whether you are a longtime crocheter looking for your next quick project or a newer maker working through your first amigurumi pattern, sunflowers are deeply rewarding to create. The steps are logical, the finished result is impressive, and the versatility of the design means these flowers will fit into your life in dozens of ways.

Save this pattern, share it with a friend who loves to crochet, and do not be surprised if your first sunflower is followed quickly by a second, a third, and an entire sunny bouquet that will brighten your space no matter what season it is outside.

Happy crocheting!