Crochet Daffodil Pattern Free (PDF + Beginner Tutorial)

Spring is one of those seasons that makes you want to create something beautiful, and nothing captures the cheerful energy of March and April quite like a daffodil. These bright yellow blooms with their distinctive trumpet centers are iconic symbols of renewal, and the good news is that you can make your very own crocheted version with just a few basic supplies and a beginner-level skill set. Whether you want to brighten up a vase on your kitchen table, add a handmade touch to a gift, or build a garland of flowers to hang across a mantel, this free crochet daffodil pattern has you covered.

This tutorial walks you through every step in plain language, explains every stitch before you need it, and includes notes on how to download and save the pattern as a PDF so you can print it and keep it in your craft binder. No prior flower-crocheting experience is required. If you can chain, single crochet, and double crochet, you already have everything you need.

Why Crochet Daffodils?

Before we dive into the pattern itself, it is worth pausing to think about why crocheted flowers have become such a beloved project for makers of all skill levels.

First, they are portable. A small project like a single daffodil takes up almost no room in a bag, which means you can work on it during a commute, a waiting room visit, or a quiet evening on the couch. Second, they use up yarn scraps beautifully. Because each flower requires only a small amount of yarn, this is a wonderful stash-busting project. Third, crocheted flowers never wilt. A handmade daffodil will look just as fresh in December as it did the day you finished it, which makes it a wonderful lasting gift.

Daffodils in particular are a satisfying choice because their construction mirrors the actual anatomy of the real flower. You will crochet three separate components: the outer petals, the inner corona (that distinctive trumpet or cup in the center), and the leaves. Each piece is quick to make on its own, and when you join them together the result looks impressively lifelike.

Materials You Will Need

One of the best things about this pattern is how little you need to get started. Here is what to gather before you begin.

Yarn: You will need a small amount of worsted weight yarn (size 4) in yellow for the petals and corona. If you want a two-tone daffodil like the classic variety with pale yellow petals and a deep orange trumpet, grab a separate skein in a warm orange or deep gold for the corona. You will also need a small amount of green for the leaves and stem. The exact yardage is very forgiving — a single daffodil uses roughly 15 to 20 yards of your main color and about 8 to 10 yards of the contrasting color, so leftover scraps work perfectly.

Hook: A size 5.0 mm (H/8) crochet hook is recommended for worsted weight yarn. If you tend to crochet tightly, try going up half a size to 5.5 mm so your petals remain open and flexible rather than stiff and dense.

Additional supplies: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers (optional but helpful), and floral wire or a pipe cleaner if you want your daffodil to have a poseable stem. A small amount of polyfill stuffing is optional if you would like to give the corona a slightly dimensional look, but this is entirely up to you.

Crochet Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern is written in US crochet terminology. Here is a quick reference for every abbreviation you will encounter.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble crochet
inc — increase (two stitches in the same stitch)
dec — decrease
MR — magic ring (also called magic circle)
st — stitch
rnd — round
rep — repeat
sp — space
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only

If any of these terms are unfamiliar to you, do not worry. Each stitch will be briefly explained in context when it first appears in the pattern.

Pattern Notes

Before you cast on, a few notes will save you confusion later.

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Use a stitch marker to keep track of the beginning of each round — simply loop a piece of contrasting yarn or a store-bought marker around the last stitch of each round before you move on.

The magic ring (MR) is the recommended starting method for all circular pieces. If you are not yet comfortable with the magic ring technique, you can substitute it by chaining 4 and joining with a slip stitch to form a ring, then working your first round of stitches into that ring. The magic ring creates a cleaner, tighter center with no visible hole, but either method will give you a functional flower.

All turning chains in this pattern do not count as stitches unless specifically noted.

Part One: The Outer Petals

The outer petals are the wide, flat backdrop of the daffodil — the six-pointed star-like layer you see surrounding the trumpet. In real daffodils these are called the perianth, but for our purposes we will just call them the petal ring.

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Chain 1, then work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring tight. You now have 6 stitches. Do not join; place your stitch marker in the last stitch and continue working in a spiral.

Round 2: Work 2 sc in each stitch around. You now have 12 stitches.

Round 3: (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) around. You now have 18 stitches.

Now you will begin forming the individual petals. Each petal is worked separately as a short back-and-forth section, and then you will move on to the next one.

Petals (make 6, worked in sequence around the ring):

To begin the first petal, identify the next 3 stitches in your round of 18.

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first st, hdc in next st, sc in last st. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each of the 3 sts across. Turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, sc3tog (decrease all 3 stitches into 1). This forms the pointed tip of the petal. Do not turn.

Sl st back down the side of the petal to the base, working 2 or 3 slip stitches evenly along the edge to return to the main ring. You are now at the base again, ready to begin the next petal.

Repeat this petal sequence for each of the remaining 5 groups of 3 stitches around the ring.

After all 6 petals are completed, fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. You should now have a beautiful six-petaled flower base that looks a bit like a pinwheel.

Shaping tip: If your petals are curling inward, try going up a hook size just for the petal rows. If they are too floppy, go down half a size. Blocking with a light spray of water and pinning the petals flat while they dry will also give you a crisp, professional-looking result.

Part Two: The Corona (Trumpet)

The corona is the cup-shaped center tube that makes a daffodil unmistakably a daffodil. This is worked as a small cylinder with a ruffled opening, and it is the most fun part of the whole pattern.

If you are making a two-tone daffodil, switch to your contrasting color for this section. Classic daffodils often have a bright orange or deep gold corona even when the petals are pale yellow.

Round 1: MR, ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring. Pull tight. (6 sts)

Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: Work even, sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 4: Work even. (12 sts)

Round 5: Work even. (12 sts)

By this point you have a small tube about the right depth for the corona. Now you will create the ruffled edge at the opening.

Round 6 (ruffle): Work (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) all into each stitch around. This will cause the edge to fan out and ruffle naturally. You will end up with 60 stitches in this round, which is perfectly correct — the extra stitches are what create the ruffled look.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Optional stuffing: If you would like the corona to hold its cup shape more firmly, use the eraser end of a pencil to gently push a small pinch of polyfill stuffing into the tube before sewing it onto the petals. This gives it a lovely three-dimensional look.

Part Three: The Leaf

Each daffodil looks lovely with one or two leaves at the base. These are simple, worked flat, and give the flower a natural, grounded look when it sits in a vase or is pinned to a bag.

Foundation: Ch 16.

Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, sc in each ch across. (15 sts) Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc across, but work 2 sc in the center stitch (the 8th stitch). (16 sts) Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc across, work 2 sc in the center stitch again. (17 sts) Turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc across. (17 sts) Turn.

Rows 5 to 7: Repeat Row 4 three more times, working even with no increases. (17 sts)

Row 8: Ch 1, sc to 1 st before center, sc2tog over the center 2 sts, sc to end. (16 sts) Turn.

Row 9: Ch 1, sc2tog at the beginning, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (14 sts) Turn.

Row 10: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. (12 sts) Turn.

Continue decreasing 2 stitches per row (one at each end) until you have 2 stitches remaining, then sc2tog and fasten off. This creates a gently tapered leaf shape.

Weave in the tail, and if you want a nice ridge down the center of the leaf, use your yarn needle to run a single line of whip stitches from tip to base along the middle of the leaf after blocking. This mimics the central vein and adds a realistic detail.

Part Four: The Stem (Optional)

If you want a flower with a full stem, cut a length of floral wire to your desired height (somewhere between 6 and 10 inches works well for display purposes). Bend a small hook at the top.

Using green yarn and a 4.0 mm hook, chain enough stitches to match the length of your wire, then sl st back down the chain to create a tight, cord-like tube. Alternatively, work a very tight sc spiral around the wire itself, which gives you a sturdier stem. Leave enough yarn at the top to sew through the base of the flower.

Thread the hooked end of the wire through the center of the finished petal ring from back to front, and bend the hook flat against the back of the petals to anchor it in place. This gives you a poseable, displayable stem.

Assembly: Putting the Daffodil Together

Now that all your pieces are finished, it is time to join them.

Lay the petal ring face-up on your work surface. Position the corona in the center with the ruffled end facing you. Thread your yarn needle with the long tail from the corona and stitch it firmly to the center of the petal ring, working in a circle and catching a few stitches from the base of the corona and the center of the petals. Make sure the corona stands upright and does not lean to one side.

If you are adding a stem, position it behind the petal ring before you complete your stitching so it is anchored in place at the same time.

Sew the leaf to the back of the base or to the lower part of the stem, whichever applies to your design. Two or three simple stitches along the base of the leaf are enough to secure it.

Weave in all remaining ends thoroughly — small crocheted pieces have a tendency to unravel if the ends are not well secured, so take your time here.

Finishing and Blocking

Blocking transforms a crochet project from good to great, and it takes almost no effort. Wet-blocking is the easiest method: simply dampen your finished flower with cool water (a spray bottle works well), then pin the petals into the position you want them on a foam blocking board or a folded towel. Let the flower dry completely before removing the pins.

If you want the petals to curve slightly upward like a real daffodil, pin them over a rounded surface — the top of a tennis ball or a folded dishcloth works nicely.

How to Save This Pattern as a PDF

To save this tutorial as a PDF so you can print it or store it on your device, simply select all the text on this page, right-click and choose “Print,” then in the print dialog change the destination to “Save as PDF.” On most browsers and devices you can also use File > Print > Save as PDF. This will give you a clean, printable document to keep in your craft folder.

If you prefer a formatted version, many makers copy the pattern text into a free word processor like Google Docs and add their own formatting, stitch diagrams, and photos before saving. Either way, having a physical or saved digital copy means you are never hunting back through browser tabs when you are mid-project.

Customization Ideas

One of the most delightful things about crocheted flowers is how easily they can be adapted.

Try using size 3 cotton thread with a 2.5 mm hook for a delicate miniature daffodil perfect for jewelry or greetings cards. Scale up with bulky yarn and a 6.0 mm hook for a large statement bloom to display in a vase on its own. Experiment with color — white petals with a pink corona creates a pretty pink daffodil variety, or try cream and peach for a softer, vintage look. Adding a small button or bead to the center before attaching the corona gives a lovely extra detail.

You can join multiple daffodils into a wreath, garland, or headband, or sew them onto a plain tote bag, a wide-brim hat, or a knitted cushion cover. They also make beautiful corsages and buttonholes for weddings or special events when the bride or couple wants something that will last forever.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

If your petals are uneven in size, check that you are consistently beginning each petal on the correct stitch. Marking the base of each petal with a stitch marker as you go helps enormously.

If the corona flops over instead of standing up, try going down a hook size for that piece, or use a firmer yarn. You can also run a small stitch of invisible thread around the base of the corona where it meets the petals to support it.

If your magic ring keeps loosening, try finishing the round and then running the starting tail under a few stitches on the wrong side before weaving it in. This prevents the ring from gradually opening over time.

Final Thoughts

A crocheted daffodil is one of those projects that looks far more complicated than it actually is, which makes it incredibly satisfying to finish and share. Once you have made your first one, you will likely find yourself making a whole bouquet — they really are that addictive. The pattern works up in under an hour once you are familiar with it, and the combination of the simple petal ring, the textured ruffle of the corona, and the crisp flat leaves produces a result that people genuinely mistake for something much more advanced.

Whether you are making them for your own home, gifting them to someone who loves spring, or adding them to a larger crochet project, these little flowers carry a cheerful energy that handmade things do so well. Enjoy the process, do not be afraid to experiment with colors and sizing, and remember that even imperfect handmade flowers are beautiful because of the time and care that went into them.

Happy crocheting — and welcome to spring, any time of year.