Plush Buttercup the Bunny – Crochet Easy Bunny Plushie – Amigurumi Plush Rabbit Pattern
If you’ve been searching for the perfect beginner-friendly crochet bunny pattern, your search ends here. Meet Buttercup — a sweet, squishy, long-eared plush rabbit who is just as fun to make as she is to cuddle. Whether you’re new to amigurumi or a seasoned crafter looking for a relaxing project, this pattern is designed with clarity and ease in mind. Buttercup is soft, sturdy, and absolutely adorable, making her a wonderful handmade gift for babies, toddlers, and anyone who appreciates the charm of a well-crafted stuffed animal.
In this post, you’ll find everything you need to bring Buttercup to life — materials, abbreviations, gauge notes, stitch-by-stitch instructions for every body part, assembly guidance, and tips to make your finished bunny look polished and professional. Let’s get started.
Why You’ll Love This Pattern
Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting small stuffed animals and creatures, and it has taken the crafting world by storm for good reason. The projects are compact, relatively quick, and endlessly customizable. Buttercup the Bunny embodies everything that makes amigurumi so satisfying.
She works up in simple rounds using basic stitches — single crochet is the primary stitch throughout the entire pattern. There are no complicated stitch combinations, no colorwork charts to follow, and no special techniques that require years of experience. If you know how to single crochet and increase and decrease in the round, you have everything you need to make Buttercup. Her defining features — those long floppy ears, her plump little body, her sweet embroidered face — come together in a way that feels magical, especially for newer crocheters who are still building confidence.
Beyond beginner friendliness, Buttercup is also a practical pattern. She is sized to be a proper plushie — big enough to be satisfying to hold and display, but small enough that you can finish her in a weekend sitting. Her finished dimensions are approximately 10 inches tall when seated, not including ears. With her long ears standing upright, she measures closer to 16 inches, giving her that classic Easter bunny silhouette that everyone loves.
Materials You’ll Need
Before you begin, gather your materials. Having everything on hand before you start will make the process smooth and enjoyable.
Yarn: You’ll want a bulky or super bulky weight yarn for the body and ears to achieve that satisfying plushiness. A chenille or velvet yarn works beautifully for Buttercup and gives her an irresistibly soft texture. If you prefer a more traditional look, a smooth acrylic yarn in a soft weight also works well. The main color can be anything you like — cream, pale pink, soft gray, warm tan, or classic white are all gorgeous choices. You’ll also want a small amount of a contrasting or complementary color for any optional accent details like inner ear color.
Hook: Use a 5.0mm crochet hook for bulky weight yarn, or follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for the weight you choose. Going slightly smaller than recommended creates a tighter fabric that will hold stuffing better and prevent gaps from showing.
Safety Eyes: Two 12mm or 15mm black safety eyes. Always attach safety eyes before stuffing and closing any piece, especially for toys intended for older children and adults. For children under 3, embroider eyes with black yarn instead of using plastic safety eyes.
Polyfill Stuffing: A good quality polyester fiberfill stuffing. Don’t skimp on this — Buttercup should feel full and firm. You’ll go through more stuffing than you might expect.
Yarn Needle: A blunt tapestry needle for sewing pieces together and weaving in ends.
Embroidery Thread or Yarn: Black or dark brown for the nose and mouth. Pink for optional inner ear detailing.
Stitch Markers: These are helpful for marking the beginning of rounds, especially if you’re newer to crocheting in the round.
Scissors: Always close by.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
Understanding the abbreviations before you start will save you time and confusion as you work through each section.
MR — Magic ring (also called a magic circle or adjustable ring)
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
inc — Increase (2 single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — Invisible decrease (insert hook into the front loops only of the next two stitches and complete as one single crochet)
BLO — Back loop only
FLO — Front loop only
[x] x # — Repeat the instructions inside brackets the number of times indicated
R# — Round number
All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral unless otherwise noted. Do not join rounds with a slip stitch unless the pattern specifically instructs you to do so.
Gauge
Gauge is not critical for this pattern, but working too loosely can cause visible gaps in your fabric that will show the stuffing inside. Aim for a firm, dense fabric. If you can see light through your stitches when you hold the piece up, try going down a hook size.
The Pattern: Buttercup the Bunny
Body
The body is crocheted from the bottom up as a single piece.
R1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6)
R2: [inc] x 6. (12)
R3: [sc, inc] x 6. (18)
R4: [sc, sc, inc] x 6. (24)
R5: [sc, sc, sc, inc] x 6. (30)
R6: [sc, sc, sc, sc, inc] x 6. (36)
R7: [sc, sc, sc, sc, sc, inc] x 6. (42)
R8 through R14: sc in each stitch around. (42) — 7 rounds even
R15: [sc, sc, sc, sc, sc, dec] x 6. (36)
R16: sc in each stitch around. (36)
R17: [sc, sc, sc, sc, dec] x 6. (30)
R18: sc in each stitch around. (30)
R19: [sc, sc, sc, dec] x 6. (24)
R20: sc in each stitch around. (24)
This is the time to insert your safety eyes if you are using them. Position them between rounds 16 and 17, with approximately 8 to 10 stitches between them. Attach firmly.
R21: [sc, sc, dec] x 6. (18)
Begin stuffing the body firmly now. Continue adding stuffing as you close the piece.
R22: [sc, dec] x 6. (12)
R23: [dec] x 6. (6)
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Use your yarn needle to close the remaining gap by weaving through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pulling tight. Weave in your end.
Head
The head is crocheted as a separate piece and sewn to the body.
R1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6)
R2: [inc] x 6. (12)
R3: [sc, inc] x 6. (18)
R4: [sc, sc, inc] x 6. (24)
R5: [sc, sc, sc, inc] x 6. (30)
R6: [sc, sc, sc, sc, inc] x 6. (36)
R7 through R13: sc in each stitch around. (36) — 7 rounds even
R14: [sc, sc, sc, sc, dec] x 6. (30)
R15: [sc, sc, sc, dec] x 6. (24)
R16: [sc, sc, dec] x 6. (18)
Stuff the head firmly before closing completely.
R17: [sc, dec] x 6. (12)
R18: [dec] x 6. (6)
Fasten off and close as with the body. Weave in ends.
Ears (Make 2)
Buttercup’s long ears are her most iconic feature. Each ear is crocheted flat and then folded or left as-is depending on whether you want floppy or upright ears.
R1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6)
R2: [inc] x 6. (12)
R3: [sc, inc] x 6. (18)
R4 through R6: sc in each stitch around. (18) — 3 rounds even
R7: [sc, sc, dec] x… wait — let’s keep these ears long and elegant.
Actually, continue as follows after R6:
R7 through R20: sc in each stitch around. (18) — 14 rounds even
R21: [sc, sc, dec] x… No closing yet. The ears should be long tubes at this point. To shape the base for sewing:
R21: [sc, dec] x 6. (12)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff the ears. Flatten each ear slightly before sewing to give them a natural shape.
For inner ear color (optional): Using pink yarn or embroidery thread, stitch a long oval shape down the center front of each ear before sewing them to the head.
Arms (Make 2)
R1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6)
R2: [inc] x 6. (12)
R3 through R5: sc in each stitch around. (12) — 3 rounds even
R6: [sc, dec] x 4. (8)
R7 through R14: sc in each stitch around. (8) — 8 rounds even
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the arms lightly — you want them to be poseable and floppy rather than stiff.
Legs (Make 2)
R1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6)
R2: [inc] x 6. (12)
R3: [sc, inc] x 6. (18)
R4 through R6: sc in each stitch around. (18) — 3 rounds even
R7: [sc, sc, sc, dec] x… actually, shape the foot as follows for a rounder base:
R7: sc 6, [sc, dec] x 4. (14)
R8: sc in each stitch around. (14)
R9: [sc, dec] x… Let’s simplify:
R9: sc 4, [dec] x 3, sc 4. (11)
R10 through R16: sc in each stitch around. (11) — 7 rounds even
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Stuff the legs firmly, especially the foot area.
Tail
R1: MR, 6 sc into ring. (6)
R2: [inc] x 6. (12)
R3: [sc, inc] x 6. (18)
R4: sc in each stitch around. (18)
R5: [sc, dec] x 6. (12)
R6: [dec] x 6. (6)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff lightly before closing.
Assembling Buttercup
Assembly is where Buttercup truly comes to life, and it is worth taking your time with this step. Use your yarn needle and the long tails you left on each piece.
Begin by attaching the head to the body. Position the head so it sits centered on top of the body, with the face pointing forward. Pin it in place before sewing to ensure you’re happy with the angle. Some crafters prefer Buttercup to have a slight tilt to her head, which gives her an endearing, curious expression. Sew all the way around the base of the head, catching stitches from both pieces alternately. Pull the yarn snug as you go to ensure there are no gaps.
Next, attach the ears. Position them on top of the head, slightly to either side of center, between rounds 3 and 7 of the head. The spacing between them should feel natural — not too close together and not too far apart. Pin them before committing to the placement. Sew each ear securely, going through the base several times to ensure they won’t pull out with handling.
Attach the arms on either side of the body, at approximately the shoulder level — between rounds 19 and 21 of the body. They should sit naturally at Buttercup’s sides with a slight forward angle.
Attach the legs at the bottom front of the body, between rounds 5 and 8. Space them so Buttercup can sit upright without tipping. This may take a little experimentation — pin and test before sewing permanently.
Finally, attach the tail at the back of the body, centered, between rounds 8 and 12.
Embroidering the Face
The face is what will give Buttercup her personality, and a little care here goes a long way. Using black embroidery thread or a thin strand of black yarn, embroider a small oval or triangular nose at the center of the face, between the eyes. From the bottom point of the nose, embroider a small Y-shape to create the mouth, with two short lines angling downward and outward. This classic embroidered bunny expression reads as gentle and sweet.
If you find face placement intimidating, a helpful trick is to cut small circles of felt in the eye color you want and pin them in different positions on the head before committing. Even with safety eyes already placed, you can use this trick for the nose and mouth to visualize placement before embroidering.
Customizing Your Buttercup
One of the great joys of making a handmade plushie is that no two need to be exactly alike. Buttercup is wonderfully easy to customize.
Change her colorway entirely — a gray Buttercup with white accents has the look of a real rabbit, while a pale lavender or soft rose version becomes a clearly fantastical creature. You can use variegated yarn for a pastel rainbow effect that is especially popular for spring and Easter gifting.
Add a small crocheted bow between her ears or at her neck using a contrasting color of yarn. A simple flat rectangle folded and tied at the center makes an adorable accessory that requires no additional pattern.
Outfit her in a tiny crocheted vest, a little scarf, or even a small dress if you want to take the project further. Because her proportions are simple and symmetrical, adapting basic garment shapes to fit her is very approachable.
You can also adjust her size by changing your yarn weight. Using a DK or worsted weight yarn with an appropriately sized hook will produce a smaller, more delicate Buttercup. Using a super bulky yarn will create an oversized, extra-snuggly version.
Tips for the Best Results
Working in a continuous spiral without slip stitching at the end of rounds will give you cleaner, more even fabric. Use a stitch marker at the first stitch of each round so you always know where you are.
The invisible decrease (also called the invisible dec) is worth learning if you haven’t already. It creates a much neater finish than a traditional decrease and makes the seams on your amigurumi look smooth and professional.
Stuff firmly but not so tightly that the fabric distorts. The goal is a piece that feels solid and holds its shape without showing strain at the seams.
When sewing pieces together, mattress stitch gives the neatest results. Alternatively, simply weaving back and forth through corresponding stitches on each piece in a circle works perfectly well.
Finally, don’t rush the assembly. This is where your careful stitchwork pays off. A well-assembled Buttercup will look like something that came from a boutique shop rather than a first attempt at amigurumi.
A Note on Gifting
Handmade toys carry a warmth and meaning that store-bought items simply cannot replicate. A Buttercup made with thoughtfulness and care is an heirloom-quality gift. For baby showers, birthdays, Easter baskets, or just because — she is always a welcome presence. If you’re gifting to a child under 3, always use embroidered features instead of safety eyes, and double-check that all parts are sew
