How to Crochet Pansies and Violas: Full Pattern, Instructions, and Tips for Stunning Floral Appliqués
Few things in the world of crochet are as rewarding as completing a tiny, detailed flower that looks almost too pretty to be real. Pansies and violas are two of the most beloved flowers in any garden, and their distinctive shape — those velvety, overlapping petals in rich purples, yellows, and deep blues — translates beautifully into yarn. Whether you want to embellish a hat, decorate a tote bag, add charm to a baby blanket, or create a whole bouquet of fiber flowers, this pattern will walk you through every step from your very first slip knot to your finished, photograph-ready bloom.
This guide covers everything: the materials you need, the stitch abbreviations used, detailed row-by-row instructions for both the pansy and the viola, tips for getting the best results, color combination ideas, and ways to use your finished flowers. Bookmark this page, share it with your crochet group, and let’s grow something beautiful together.
Why Crochet Pansies and Violas?
Pansies and violas are technically close cousins in the plant world, and in crochet they share the same basic construction — five petals arranged in a distinctive pattern, with the two upper petals sitting slightly behind the three lower ones. The pansy tends to be larger with more rounded, dramatic petals, while the viola is smaller and more delicate. Because of this relationship, learning one makes the other almost effortless.
Crocheted flowers have had an enormous resurgence in popularity, appearing on everything from cottagecore cardigans to boho wedding decorations. Pansies in particular have been showing up on Pinterest boards and Instagram feeds in waves of purple, gold, and midnight blue. They are also beginner-friendly enough that someone who has only just learned single crochet can complete their first pansy in under an hour with a little patience.
Materials You Will Need
Before you begin, gather your supplies so you can work through the pattern without interruption.
Yarn: You will want a lightweight yarn for these flowers. Fingering weight (also called sock weight or size 1) gives the most realistic, delicate look, but sport weight or DK weight work beautifully too if you prefer a chunkier, bolder flower. For a classic pansy, you will need three colors: a deep purple or violet for the upper petals, a lighter lavender or yellow for the lower petals, and a small amount of gold or sunny yellow for the center. For violas, a single color or two-color combination works perfectly. Have a length of dark brown or black yarn or embroidery thread for the center detail lines if you want to add realistic veining.
Hook: Match your hook to your yarn. For fingering weight, use a 1.5mm to 2mm steel hook or a size B (2.25mm) aluminum hook. For sport or DK weight, a size C (2.75mm) or D (3.25mm) hook works well. Going down a hook size from what the yarn label recommends will give you a tighter, stiffer fabric that holds the petal shape better.
Notions: You will need a yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, and optionally some stiffening spray or a mixture of white glue and water if you want your flowers to hold their shape very firmly for brooch-making or framed art.
Optional: Small yellow seed beads or a tiny button for the center, floral wire if you want to make stems, and green yarn for leaves if you want to create a full spray.
Stitch Abbreviations
Throughout this pattern, the following abbreviations are used:
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble crochet (also called triple crochet)
dtr — double treble crochet
MR — magic ring (also called magic circle or adjustable ring)
sp — space
st — stitch
rep — repeat
yo — yarn over
If you are not yet familiar with the magic ring, it is a technique that creates a tight, invisible center for circular crochet. There are many excellent video tutorials available by searching “magic ring crochet tutorial.” Alternatively, you can chain 4 and slip stitch into the first chain to form a small ring, though the magic ring gives a neater result.
Understanding Pansy Petal Structure
A real pansy has five petals. The two upper petals (sometimes called the “wings”) are slightly smaller and usually a deeper, more saturated color. The three lower petals are larger, with the single bottom petal being the widest of all. These lower petals often show the dark radiating lines called “pencilling” or “veining” that make pansies so distinctive.
In this crochet pattern, you will make the upper two petals first in one color, then work the lower three petals in the same or a contrasting color. The center is worked separately and attached, or you can embroider it directly onto the finished flower.
The Pansy Pattern
Color Setup
Color A — upper petal color (e.g., deep purple, dark violet, rich burgundy)
Color B — lower petal color (e.g., pale lavender, golden yellow, white)
Color C — center color (e.g., bright yellow, golden orange)
Making the Upper Petals (Two Petals)
With Color A, make a magic ring or chain 4 and join with a sl st.
Row 1: Ch 1, work 10 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed snugly. You now have 10 sc in a small circle. Do not join; leave the ring open as a half-circle rather than closing it into a full round. (10 sts)
Now you will work the two upper petals directly from this base, one at a time.
First upper petal:
Sl st into the first 2 sts to position yourself. Ch 3 (counts as first dc).
Work 4 dc into the same st.
Work 1 hdc, 1 sc into the next st.
Turn your work.
Ch 1, sc across 5 sts, ch 1, turn.
Work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 3 dc, 1 hdc, 1 sc across the row (this creates a gentle rounded top).
Sl st back down to the base ring. Fasten off and leave a short tail.
Second upper petal:
Rejoin Color A with a sl st in the st 2 positions over from where the first petal began.
Repeat the first upper petal instructions exactly.
Fasten off, weave in ends loosely (you will tighten everything once the lower petals are added).
Making the Lower Petals (Three Petals)
Join Color B with a sl st to the base ring, positioning yourself at the center-bottom of the ring — the section that spans between and below the two upper petals.
First lower side petal (make 1 on each side, so repeat for the second):
Ch 3 (counts as first dc).
Work 2 dc, 3 tr, 2 dc all into the next 2 sts.
Ch 1, turn.
Sc across all sts to create a smooth rounded edge.
Sl st back to base. Fasten off.
Repeat for the matching side lower petal on the other side.
Bottom center petal (the largest petal):
Join Color B at the very bottom of the base ring.
Ch 4 (counts as first tr).
Work 2 tr, 3 dtr, 2 tr, 1 dc all into the following sts, spreading across approximately 4 base sts to give this petal its distinctive width.
Ch 1, turn.
Work a row of sc and hdc across to smooth and round the top edge of the petal.
Sl st to the base ring and fasten off.
Making the Center
With Color C, make a magic ring and work 6 sc into the ring. Pull closed. Sl st to the first sc to join. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.
Use the tail to stitch the center circle onto the flower where the petals converge at the base ring. Stitch it down firmly so it sits flat and secure.
Adding the Veining Detail
Using a length of dark brown or black embroidery thread or a fine strand of dark yarn, thread your needle and make 3 to 5 straight stitches radiating outward from the center of each lower petal. These short lines represent the classic pansy “pencilling” and make an enormous difference to the realism and character of your finished flower.
The Viola Pattern
The viola is made using the exact same method as the pansy but with smaller stitch counts throughout, making it faster and giving it that dainty, wildflower quality.
Making the Viola Base and Upper Petals
With Color A (or a single color for the whole flower), make a magic ring. Work 8 sc into the ring.
Each upper petal:
Ch 2, work 2 dc in the next st, 2 dc in the following st, ch 2, sl st back to the base ring.
Repeat for the second upper petal, skipping 1 st between petals.
Making the Viola Lower Petals
Side lower petals (make 2):
Join (or continue) with Color B if using two colors.
Ch 2, work 1 hdc, 2 dc, 1 hdc, ch 1, sl st back to base ring.
Repeat for the other side.
Bottom petal:
Ch 3, work 1 dc, 2 tr, 1 dc, ch 2, sl st back to base ring.
Center and Finishing
Work the center in the same way as the pansy but make it even smaller: magic ring with only 4 sc. Attach and add minimal veining stitches on the bottom petal only.
Sizing and Yarn Substitutions
With fingering weight yarn and a 1.75mm hook, your finished pansy will measure approximately 3 to 3.5 centimeters (about 1.25 inches) across — roughly life-size for a real garden pansy. With DK weight and a 3.25mm hook, expect a flower closer to 5 to 6 centimeters (about 2 to 2.5 inches), which is wonderful for decorating bags, hats, or pillows.
Cotton yarn is an excellent choice for these flowers because it has very little stretch and holds its shape beautifully without any stiffening. Acrylic yarn is more affordable and comes in a stunning range of colors, and the thinner acrylics block and stiffen nicely with a light spray of starch. Wool and wool blends give the flowers a wonderfully soft, slightly felted texture that looks gorgeous on knitwear.
Color Combination Ideas
One of the most joyful parts of making pansies is playing with color. Here are some combinations that tend to photograph beautifully and stay true to the real flower’s range:
Deep violet upper petals with golden yellow lower petals and a bright yellow center is the most classic pansy look, instantly recognizable and endlessly appealing. Midnight blue upper petals with pale lavender lower petals feel cool and sophisticated, wonderful for winter accessories. Burgundy red upper petals with soft blush pink lower petals and a cream center create a vintage, romantic mood. All-white petals with a tiny yellow center and very subtle grey veining produce a clean, modern look that pairs well with any project. For a cheerful cottage garden feel, try bright yellow upper petals with white lower petals and an orange-gold center. Pure purple throughout with deeper purple veining — sometimes called a self-colored pansy — is moody, dramatic, and absolutely stunning.
For violas, try a single color throughout (all lilac, all gold, or all white) or a simple two-tone where the upper petals are one shade and the lower petals are a slightly different value of the same color.
How to Use Your Finished Flowers
Once your pansies and violas are made, the fun is only beginning. Here are some of the most popular ways to show them off:
Sew them onto a plain beanie or slouch hat for an instant cottagecore accessory. Attach a pin back to make a wearable brooch — stiffen the flower first with spray starch or fabric stiffener for the best results. Cluster several together on a hair clip or headband. Glue or stitch them onto a canvas tote bag alongside some crocheted leaves. Use them to embellish a baby cardigan or blanket. Create a full floral wreath by making dozens of pansies and violas in various colors and wiring them together on a grapevine or foam wreath base. Frame a small arrangement in an embroidery hoop lined with burlap for a fiber art wall piece. Add them to a gift wrapping arrangement as a reusable, handmade embellishment.
Making Leaves to Complete Your Arrangement
No pansy or viola is truly complete without its distinctive heart-shaped leaves. To make a simple crochet leaf, chain 12. Starting in the second chain from the hook, work sc, sc, hdc, dc, dc, tr, dc, dc, hdc, sc, and then work 3 sc into the very last chain to turn the corner. Work back along the other side of the foundation chain mirroring the same stitches. Sl st to join at the starting point. Fasten off and weave in ends. Use any shade of green — sage, forest, lime — or even a variegated green for a more natural look.
Finishing Tips and Troubleshooting
If your petals are curling more than you’d like, try blocking your finished flowers by pinning them flat onto a foam blocking board, misting with water, and leaving to dry. This works especially well with cotton and wool.
If the center feels loose or puckered, try going down one hook size for the center circle only.
If your petals look uneven, don’t worry — real pansies are slightly irregular too, and that’s part of their charm. A little inconsistency actually makes crocheted flowers look more organic and natural.
If you want very stiff flowers for framed artwork or permanent decor, mix equal parts PVA (white craft glue) and water, dip your finished flower in the mixture, gently squeeze out the excess, shape the petals carefully with your fingers, and leave to dry on a piece of parchment paper.
Sharing Your Work
Once you have made your pansies and violas, share them! Tag your posts so other flower crochet lovers can find your work. If you are in a Facebook crochet group, posting a photo of your finished flowers alongside the pattern is a wonderful way to connect with other makers. People love seeing the same pattern worked in different colors, and your version might be exactly the inspiration someone else needs to pick up their hook for the first time.
If you adapt this pattern or develop your own variations — perhaps a larger pansy, a fantasy-colored viola, or a whole crochet flower garden — please share your adaptations in the comments or in your group. Patterns grow and improve through the community of makers who use them, and every tip, tweak, or photograph adds to the collective knowledge we all benefit from.
Happy crocheting, and may your hook never tangle and your yarn always have enough yardage to finish the row.
