Make This Cute Crochet Daisy Plush — Free Pattern

There’s something deeply satisfying about turning a simple skein of yarn into something that looks like it belongs in a cottage garden. Daisy plushies have become one of the most beloved beginner-friendly crochet projects for good reason — they’re cheerful, quick to finish, and endlessly giftable. Whether you’re making one for a toddler’s toy box, a desk decoration, or a handmade gift for someone you love, this crochet daisy plush pattern will walk you through every single step.

This pattern is written for beginners but includes some intermediate touches that make the finished piece look polished and professional. If you’ve crocheted a granny square or worked in the round before, you already have most of the skills you need. If this is your very first crochet project, don’t worry — I’ll explain everything as we go, including how to hold your hook, how to read abbreviations, and how to finish neatly.

Let’s dive in.

What You’ll Need

Before you start any crochet project, it helps to gather all your materials so you’re not hunting for a yarn needle mid-project. Here’s what you need for this daisy plush.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (also labeled as size 4) works beautifully for this pattern. You’ll need a small amount of yellow for the center, white for the petals, and green for the stem and leaves. Roughly 50 grams of white, 20 grams of yellow, and 30 grams of green will be more than enough for one plush. Cotton yarn gives a lovely crisp finish and holds its shape well, but acrylic works perfectly fine and tends to be softer, which is great if this is intended as a toy.

Hook: A 4mm or 4.5mm crochet hook. Go slightly smaller than the yarn recommends to create a tighter fabric that won’t let stuffing peek through.

Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill is the standard choice. You can also repurpose old stuffing from worn-out pillows or plush toys.

Yarn Needle: Also called a tapestry needle or darning needle, this is used to weave in ends and sew pieces together.

Stitch Markers: Handy for keeping track of the beginning of each round when working in a continuous spiral.

Scissors: Any scissors work, but small embroidery scissors make clean cuts near finished work.

Optional: Safety eyes (if making for an adult decoration), black embroidery floss for a sewn smile or eyes, and wire for the stem if you want it to stand upright in a vase.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
inc — increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
dec — decrease (sc2tog, or single crochet two stitches together)
MR — magic ring (also called magic loop or magic circle)
BLO — back loop only
st — stitch
rnd — round
rep — repeat

Gauge

Gauge is less critical for plush toys than for garments, but as a reference point, 14 sc x 16 rows should measure approximately 4 inches x 4 inches using a 4mm hook and worsted weight yarn. What matters most is that your fabric is tight enough to hold stuffing inside.

Pattern Notes

This pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Do not join at the end of each round unless the pattern specifically says to join. Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each new round and move it up as you work.

All pieces are crocheted flat or in the round and then assembled at the end. The stem is worked as a long tube, and the leaves are worked flat and sewn on.

Let’s Start Crocheting: The Daisy Center (Yellow)

The center of your daisy is a sphere, made by crocheting a circle that increases and then decreases. This is the classic amigurumi ball shape.

Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Sc 6 into the ring. Pull the tail to close. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)

Round 4: [Sc 2, inc] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)

Round 5: [Sc 3, inc] repeat 6 times. (30 sts)

Round 6: [Sc 4, inc] repeat 6 times. (36 sts)

Rounds 7–10: Sc in each st around. (36 sts)

Round 11: [Sc 4, dec] repeat 6 times. (30 sts)

Round 12: [Sc 3, dec] repeat 6 times. (24 sts)

Round 13: [Sc 2, dec] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)

Now is the time to stuff the center firmly. Use enough fiberfill that it holds its shape and feels springy but not so much that the seams stretch and gap.

Round 14: [Sc 1, dec] repeat 6 times. (12 sts)

Round 15: Dec 6 times. (6 sts)

Cut yarn, leaving a tail. Thread the tail onto your yarn needle and run it through the front loops of each remaining stitch. Pull tight to close the hole. Weave in ends and set aside.

The Petals (White)

The petals are worked separately and sewn around the center. This gives the daisy its dimensional, lifelike quality. You’ll make 10 petals.

For each petal:

Round 1: MR, sc 6 into the ring. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: [Sc 1, inc] repeat 6 times. (18 sts)

Rounds 4–5: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)

Round 6: [Sc 1, dec] repeat 6 times. (12 sts)

Round 7: Dec 6 times. (6 sts)

Stuff lightly with a small pinch of fiberfill. You want the petals to have just enough structure to stand out from the center without being stiff. Cut yarn and close the top the same way you did for the center.

Repeat this until you have 10 petals. You can make 8 for a simpler look or up to 12 if you want an especially full daisy.

The Stem (Green)

The stem is a long crocheted tube. You can make it as short or as long as you like — somewhere between 10 and 15 centimeters looks proportionate.

Round 1: MR, sc 6 into the ring. (6 sts)

Rounds 2 onward: Sc in each st around, continuing without increasing or decreasing until the tube reaches your desired length.

Do not stuff the stem. An unstuffed tube is flexible and easier to sew in place. If you want a rigid stem that stands upright, you can insert a pipe cleaner or floral wire before closing.

When the stem reaches the right length, cut yarn and leave a long tail for sewing.

The Leaves (Green)

You’ll make two leaves. These are worked flat using a turning chain method.

Foundation: Ch 10.

Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, sc 1, hdc 2, dc 3, hdc 2, sc 1. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Working back along the opposite side of the foundation chain, sc 1, hdc 2, dc 3, hdc 2, sc 1.

Sl st to join the tip of the leaf. Cut yarn and leave a tail for sewing.

This gives you a simple, symmetrical leaf shape. If you want more textured or pointed leaves, you can modify the stitch heights — taller stitches at the center create a pointed tip.

Assembly

This is where everything comes together, and it’s genuinely one of the most satisfying parts of the process.

Step 1: Attach the petals to the center. Lay the yellow center flat and arrange the 10 petals evenly around it, pinning them in place if it helps. Using your yarn needle and a length of white yarn, sew each petal securely to the back of the center. Take the time to make sure the petals are evenly spaced — four stitches per petal attachment point tends to be plenty to hold them in place without bunching the fabric.

Step 2: Attach the stem to the back of the flower. The top of the stem tube gets sewn onto the back of the assembled daisy head. Hold it in place and use a whip stitch or a mattress stitch to secure it. Make sure it’s centered so the daisy hangs straight.

Step 3: Attach the leaves to the stem. Position the leaves opposite each other about one third of the way down the stem. Sew the base of each leaf to the stem with a few tight stitches. The leaves should fan outward naturally.

Step 4: Add facial features (optional). If you want to give your daisy a little personality, you can embroider a simple face onto the yellow center using black embroidery floss. A small curved smile and two French knots or satin-stitched circles for eyes is all it takes to transform the plush into something that looks like it’s smiling back at you.

Finishing Touches

Weave in any remaining yarn ends securely. It’s worth spending a few extra minutes on this step, especially for a toy that will be handled frequently. Run the needle through the body of the plush in multiple directions before trimming the tail so there’s no risk of it working loose.

Give the finished plush a gentle squeeze to redistribute the stuffing and smooth any lumps. If you used cotton yarn, a very light steam with an iron held a few inches away can help even out any uneven stitches. Never place the iron directly on the plush.

Tips for Getting the Best Results

The magic ring is probably the single most useful skill to practice for amigurumi-style projects. If you’re struggling with it, a simple alternative is to chain 2, then work your first round of stitches into the second chain from the hook. Pull the starting tail to close the hole as tightly as possible. It won’t be quite as seamless as a magic ring, but it gets the job done.

When you’re decreasing in the final rounds of the center ball, the fabric can feel resistant and tight. Use the very tip of your hook to pick up the loops cleanly. Slowing down on these rounds prevents split stitches and keeps your stitch count accurate.

If your stitch counts keep coming out wrong, try using a contrasting color stitch marker every 6 stitches so you can count groups rather than individual stitches. This is much easier on rounds with 30 or 36 stitches.

Tight, even tension throughout makes for a much cleaner finished product. If you’re new to crochet and finding your tension inconsistent, try consciously relaxing your grip on the yarn and letting it feed through your fingers more freely. Most beginners crochet too tightly when they’re first learning.

Yarn Color Ideas

The classic white and yellow daisy is always beautiful, but this plush looks stunning in other color combinations too. A purple center with lavender petals evokes a cosmos flower. Hot pink petals with a golden yellow center look bold and modern. Pale blue petals with a cream center feel soft and vintage. You could make a whole bouquet in every color of the rainbow and it would make a spectacular centerpiece for a nursery or a child’s bedroom shelf.

If you’re giving this as a gift, consider the recipient’s favorite colors. A personalized color choice makes a handmade gift feel even more thoughtful and special.

How to Care for Your Daisy Plush

If this plush is going to be used as a toy by a child, it needs to be washable. Acrylic yarn is machine washable and holds up well to repeated washing. Wash on a gentle cycle with cold water and lay flat or hang to dry — putting plush toys in the dryer can warp the shape and cause the fiberfill to clump.

Cotton yarn can also be washed but may shrink slightly in hot water, so stick to cold. Hand washing is always the safest option for any handmade item you want to keep looking its best.

Store the plush out of direct sunlight to prevent yarn colors from fading over time, especially if you’ve used bright colors.

Ways to Use This Pattern

The daisy plush is extraordinarily versatile once you know the basic shapes involved. You can scale it up by using bulky yarn and a larger hook to make an oversized floor cushion-style daisy. Scale it down with fingering weight yarn and a 2mm hook to make miniature daisies for doll accessories or jewelry.

A bunch of these daisies bundled together with a ribbon makes an excellent gift for a new baby, a birthday, a get-well-soon basket, or a Mother’s Day present. Unlike real flowers, they don’t wilt. A teacher, a grandparent, a coworker, a best friend — it’s hard to think of someone who wouldn’t appreciate a handmade flower that lasts forever.

You can also use this pattern as a jumping-off point for other flowers. The basic center ball works for sunflowers, black-eyed Susans, and coneflowers. Add more petals or change the petal shape to get a completely different flower using the same core technique.

Making This Pattern Your Own

One of the best things about working from a free pattern is the freedom to modify it. Add a little pocket to the back for a keepsake or a small note. Stitch a loop to the top of the stem and hang it from a wreath. Make a flat version (without the three-dimensional stuffed center) and use it as a brooch or a bag charm.

If you’re a more experienced crocheter, you can try working the petals directly into the rounds of the center rather than sewing them on separately. This is faster but requires more counting. Work a slip stitch join between rounds and then crochet each petal directly off the outer edge.

Sharing Your Makes

If you make this daisy plush, I’d love to see how yours turns out. Every crocheter’s version looks a little different based on yarn choice, tension, and the small personal choices made along the way, and that’s exactly what makes handmade items so wonderful. No two are identical.

Feel free to share your finished plush on Instagram or Pinterest, and tag it with your own version of a daisy crochet hashtag so others can find it too. If you have questions about any step of the pattern, drop them in the comments and I’ll do my best to help.

Happy crocheting, and enjoy your daisy!