Lotus Frog Amigurumi Crochet Pattern | Cute Frog Flower Plush
If you’ve been scrolling through crochet communities lately, you’ve probably noticed that frog amigurumi has taken the crafting world by storm. Adorable, squishy, and endlessly customizable, these little critters have found their way into the hearts of beginners and seasoned crocheters alike. But what if we could make our frog even more magical? Enter the Lotus Frog — a charming amigurumi design that combines the sweet whimsy of a plush frog with the serene beauty of a lotus flower. This pattern creates a truly unique finished piece that’s part garden fairy tale, part woodland friend, and entirely irresistible.
Whether you’re making this for a child’s bedroom shelf, a gift for a yoga-loving friend, or just because you can’t resist a frog sitting peacefully in a blooming flower, this guide will walk you through everything you need to know — materials, techniques, tips, and the full step-by-step pattern. Let’s dive in.
Why You’ll Love This Lotus Frog Amigurumi
Amigurumi crocheting has a long and joyful tradition rooted in Japanese craft culture, and the appeal is easy to understand. There’s something deeply satisfying about transforming a simple ball of yarn into a three-dimensional character with personality and charm. The Lotus Frog takes that satisfaction to the next level by pairing two iconic symbols — the frog, a creature associated with good luck, transformation, and rain, and the lotus flower, a universal emblem of purity, peace, and new beginnings.
The resulting plush is striking even when displayed simply on a shelf or desk. The flower petals cradle the frog in a way that feels deliberately composed, like a tiny sculpture. The color combinations you can choose are practically infinite: classic green frog on pink lotus petals, a cream frog nestled in purple blooms, or even a blue-tinted frog sitting in white petals for a moonlit, ethereal vibe. This pattern invites you to make it your own.
From a skill perspective, this pattern is suitable for beginners who have already learned magic rings, single crochets, increases, and decreases. If you’ve made at least one or two other amigurumi projects before, you’ll feel right at home. The lotus flower portion introduces a few petal shaping techniques that are fun to practice and not at all intimidating once you understand the logic behind them.
Materials You’ll Need
Before you begin, gather everything on this list so your crafting session goes smoothly. There are few things more frustrating than stopping mid-project to hunt for a tapestry needle.
Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (Category 4) works beautifully for this pattern. You’ll need a main color for the frog body (green, sage, mint, or any color your heart desires), a contrasting color for the frog’s belly and inner mouth (usually a lighter green or cream), white for the eyes, and two or three colors for the lotus petals (pale pink, deeper rose, and white are a classic combination, but feel free to experiment).
Hook: A 3.5mm or 4mm crochet hook is ideal for tight, stuffing-friendly stitches. Amigurumi generally benefits from going down a hook size from what the yarn label recommends, as this keeps the stitches snug so the stuffing doesn’t peek through.
Other supplies: Polyester fiberfill stuffing, 12mm black safety eyes (two per frog), a tapestry needle for weaving in ends and sewing pieces together, stitch markers, and scissors. Optional but recommended: a small amount of blush-pink yarn or embroidery thread for adding a cute blush to the frog’s cheeks, and wire armature if you want poseable legs (though this is entirely optional and the pattern works beautifully without it).
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
Throughout this pattern, the following abbreviations are used. If you’re newer to crochet notation, take a moment to review these before starting.
MR — Magic ring (also called magic circle or adjustable ring)
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
inc — Increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — Invisible decrease (insert hook through front loops of next two stitches, yarn over, pull through both loops, yarn over, pull through two remaining loops)
BLO — Back loop only
FLO — Front loop only
st(s) — Stitch(es)
rnd — Round
( ) — Work the stitches inside parentheses the indicated number of times
[ ] — Stitch count at the end of the round
All rounds are worked in a continuous spiral unless otherwise noted. Do not join rounds unless the pattern specifies. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.
The Pattern: Lotus Frog Amigurumi
Part One: The Frog Body
Starting from the bottom of the body:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into ring. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. [12]
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. [18]
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around. [24]
Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) repeat around. [30]
Rnd 6: (Sc 4, inc) repeat around. [36]
Rnd 7: (Sc 5, inc) repeat around. [42]
Rnds 8–14: Sc in each st around (7 rounds even). [42]
Rnd 15: (Sc 5, dec) repeat around. [36]
Rnd 16: (Sc 4, dec) repeat around. [30]
At this point, insert your safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11, about 8 to 10 stitches apart. This is also the time to embroider any blush marks using pink thread or yarn if you want to add that rosy-cheeked look.
Rnd 17: (Sc 3, dec) repeat around. [24]
Begin stuffing the body now. Continue adding stuffing as you close the piece.
Rnd 18: (Sc 2, dec) repeat around. [18]
Rnd 19: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around. [12]
Rnd 20: Dec around. [6]
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Use the tapestry needle to weave through the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close. Weave in the end securely inside the body.
Part Two: The Frog Head
If you prefer a more stylized look with a distinct wide head (like a tree frog), work the head separately and sew it to the body. Alternatively, you can work the body and head in one continuous piece by not decreasing all the way closed and then beginning the head increases from round 20 onward. The separated-pieces method described here gives you more control over placement and expression.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. [12]
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat around. [18]
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat around. [24]
Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) repeat around. [30]
Rnd 6: (Sc 4, inc) repeat around. [36]
Rnds 7–10: Sc in each st around. [36]
Rnd 11: (Sc 4, dec) repeat around. [30]
Rnd 12: (Sc 3, dec) repeat around. [24]
Stuff the head firmly. Close as with the body (dec around to 12, then to 6, fasten off, and close with tapestry needle). Sew securely to the top of the body, centering the eyes facing slightly upward as frogs naturally hold their heads.
Part Three: The Eyes (Optional Dimensional Eyes)
If you want the characteristic bulging frog eyes rather than flat safety eyes, make two eye bumps:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. [12]
Rnds 3–4: Sc around. [12]
Stuff lightly and close by decreasing. Insert a safety eye through the eye bump before closing completely. Sew one eye bump on each side of the top of the head, positioned so they protrude outward and upward. This gives the finished frog that wonderfully dopey, lovable frog expression.
Part Four: The Front Legs (Make Two)
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. [12]
Rnds 3–5: Sc around. [12]
Rnd 6: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around. [8]
Rnds 7–12: Sc around. [8]
Do not stuff heavily — a light fill or none at all keeps the arms floppy and endearing. Flatten and close with a few slip stitches, or leave open and sew closed with the tapestry needle. Sew to the sides of the body, positioned just below the head seam.
Part Five: The Back Legs (Make Two)
The back legs are larger and bent to give the classic frog-sitting pose.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. [12]
Rnds 3–4: Sc around. [12]
Rnd 5: (Sc 1, dec) repeat around. [8]
Rnds 6–8: Sc around. [8]
At this point, you’ll form the knee bend by folding the tube and continuing to crochet through both sides to join, creating the characteristic bent-knee frog pose. Alternatively, sew the leg pieces flat and position them bent before sewing onto the body. Sew the back legs to the lower sides of the body with the knees pointing outward and the feet extending forward, so the frog looks as though it’s perched contentedly.
Part Six: The Lotus Flower Base
The lotus base is worked in three layers of petals — an inner layer of shorter petals, a middle layer of medium petals, and an outer layer of larger petals — all attached to a circular base that holds the frog.
Base Circle:
Using your petal color or a green lotus-pad color:
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. [12]
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat. [18]
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat. [24]
Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) repeat. [30]
Rnd 6: (Sc 4, inc) repeat. [36]
Rnd 7: (Sc 5, inc) repeat. [42]
Rnd 8: (Sc 6, inc) repeat. [48]
Slip stitch to close. Do not fasten off if you want to attach petals directly; otherwise fasten off and leave a long tail.
Part Seven: Inner Petals (Make 5–6)
Using your lightest petal color (white or pale pink):
Rnd 1: Ch 2, then sc 6 into the second ch from hook, or MR with 6 sc. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. [12]
Rnd 3: Sc around. [12]
Rnd 4: (Sc 1, dec) repeat. [8]
Rnd 5: Dec around. [4]
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Flatten each petal gently — they naturally take on a rounded oval shape, which is exactly what you want. Sew each inner petal around the center of the lotus base, evenly spaced with the pointed tips facing inward slightly to cup around where the frog will sit.
Part Eight: Middle Petals (Make 6–7)
Using your medium petal color (soft pink or light lavender):
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. [12]
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat. [18]
Rnd 4–5: Sc around. [18]
Rnd 6: (Sc 1, dec) repeat. [12]
Rnd 7: Dec around. [6]
Close and flatten. Sew these petals to the base just outside the inner ring of petals, slightly overlapping and angled outward to create that characteristic layered lotus look.
Part Nine: Outer Petals (Make 7–8)
Using your deepest petal color (rose pink, medium purple, or coral):
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc. [6]
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. [12]
Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) repeat. [18]
Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) repeat. [24]
Rnds 5–7: Sc around. [24]
Rnd 8: (Sc 2, dec) repeat. [18]
Rnd 9: (Sc 1, dec) repeat. [12]
Rnd 10: Dec around. [6]
Close, flatten gently, and sew along the outermost edge of the base, angling these petals outward and downward so the lotus has a full, bloomed appearance from the sides.
Assembling the Lotus Frog
With all pieces complete, assembly is where the magic happens. Begin by sewing all layers of petals firmly onto the base circle. Take your time here — the placement of petals determines how beautiful and symmetrical the final lotus looks. Pin pieces in place before sewing if that helps you visualize the layout.
Once the lotus is assembled, place your completed frog in the center of the flower. You can sew the frog to the lotus base through the bottom of the body with a few hidden stitches, which keeps it secure while still looking natural and unattached. Position the back legs so they splay slightly over the inner petals, which makes it look as though the frog has actually settled itself down into the flower for a comfortable rest.
If you made the poseable front arm style, arrange them so the frog looks as though it’s either lounging with arms to its sides or propped up slightly. Both looks are adorable.
Tips for a Beautiful Finished Piece
Working in continuous rounds without joining can feel awkward at first, but it produces a cleaner, more seamless result for amigurumi bodies. Stick with it and your work will look much more polished.
Invisible decreases make a visible difference in the final texture of your work. The standard yarn-over decrease can create small holes; the invisible decrease avoids this by working through the front loops of two stitches at once.
Don’t rush the stuffing. Amigurumi looks best when stuffed firmly enough to hold its shape but not so tightly that the stitches stretch and gaps appear. Add stuffing gradually as you work the decrease rounds.
Sewing pieces together is often the part new amigurumi makers find most challenging. Use plenty of pins, work slowly, and use a whip stitch or mattress stitch depending on how visible the seam will be. For the frog to lotus attachment, a hidden anchor stitch through several layers of stitches works beautifully.
Color Inspiration and Customization Ideas
One of the most delightful things about making your own amigurumi is the freedom to personalize. Here are some color combination ideas to spark your creativity.
A classic spring palette uses soft mint green for the frog with blush pink petals transitioning from white inner petals to rose outer petals — clean, fresh, and universally appealing. A cottage-garden version in lavender and cream gives the piece a romantic, vintage quality. For something bolder and more tropical, try a vivid emerald green frog against deep orange and
