How to Crochet a Daisy: Easy Amigurumi Tutorial for Beginners

There is something deeply satisfying about making a flower that never wilts. A crocheted daisy sits cheerfully on a shelf, pins to a bag, or gets bundled into a bouquet that lasts forever — and once you know how to make one, you will wonder why you waited so long to start. This tutorial walks you through every step of crocheting an amigurumi-style daisy, from gathering your materials to weaving in the very last end. Whether you have never held a crochet hook before or you have completed a project or two and want something small and rewarding, this pattern is for you.

Let’s get into it.

What Is Amigurumi, and Why Make a Daisy?

Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed characters and objects. The word combines the Japanese words for “knitted” and “stuffed doll.” Most people know amigurumi for its cute animals and round-headed figures, but the technique applies beautifully to flowers, food, and other miniature objects as well.

An amigurumi daisy works in rounds rather than rows, which gives it that satisfying three-dimensional shape. The center of the flower — often called the magic circle or center disk — is worked in the round to create a puffy, dome-shaped button, while the petals radiate outward in a ring. The result is a flower that holds its shape, looks polished from every angle, and can be finished in an afternoon.

Daisies are one of the best starter amigurumi projects because the stitch count is low, the construction is logical, and the finished object is immediately recognizable and useful. You can make them into brooches, hair clips, fridge magnets, garland decorations, stuffed animals’ accessories, or simply keep a little jar of them on your desk. They make wonderful handmade gifts, and because they are small, you can batch several in a single evening.

Materials You Will Need

Before you sit down to crochet, gather everything so you are not hunting for scissors mid-project.

Yarn: You will need two colors — one for the petals (traditionally white or cream) and one for the center (yellow is classic, but orange, brown, or even pink looks lovely). For a standard daisy about 3 inches across, a small amount of DK weight or worsted weight yarn works well. You really only need scraps; this project eats up very little yarn.

Crochet hook: A 3.5mm to 4mm hook pairs well with DK weight yarn. If you are using worsted weight, a 4mm to 5mm hook is appropriate. The exact size matters less here than it does in garments — use what feels comfortable and produces a tight, even fabric. A tighter fabric is actually preferable in amigurumi so stuffing does not show through.

Polyfill stuffing: Just a tiny pinch is needed to give the center disk its dome shape. You can also use a small scrap of batting or even a cotton ball.

Yarn needle: For weaving in ends and sewing the center to the petal ring.

Stitch marker: A split-ring stitch marker or even a piece of contrasting yarn to mark the beginning of each round.

Scissors.

Optional: A safety pin or brooch back if you want to wear your daisy, hot glue gun if you want to attach it to a headband or frame, and a small piece of cardboard if you want to add a backing.

Abbreviations and Stitches Used

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.

MR — Magic ring (also called magic circle or adjustable ring)
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
hdc — Half double crochet
dc — Double crochet
inc — Increase (two single crochets into the same stitch)
FO — Fasten off
BLO — Back loop only
( ) — Work all stitches inside the parentheses into the same stitch

If you are a complete beginner, the magic ring and working in the round are the two techniques worth practicing before you start. Both are explained in detail below.

How to Make a Magic Ring

The magic ring is the foundation of nearly every amigurumi project. It allows you to start crocheting in a circle and pull the center closed so there is no hole in the middle of your work.

To make a magic ring, wrap the yarn around two fingers so the tail end hangs behind your hand and the working yarn (connected to the ball) is on top. Pinch the place where the yarn crosses over itself. Insert your hook through the circle from front to back, catch the working yarn, and pull up a loop. Chain one to secure (this does not count as a stitch). You now have an adjustable ring you can crochet into. Once you have worked the required stitches into the ring, pull the tail end firmly to close the hole.

It feels awkward the first time. By the third try, it will feel completely natural.

Part One: Crocheting the Center Disk (Yellow)

The center of the daisy is a small stuffed disk. It is worked in continuous rounds, which means you do not join each round with a slip stitch and chain — you simply keep going, placing your stitch marker at the beginning of each round so you do not lose your place.

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 stitches)

Place your stitch marker in the first stitch of the round.

Round 2: Inc in each stitch around. (12 stitches)

Move your stitch marker up as you go — remove it from the old stitch and place it in the new first stitch of the round.

Round 3: Sc 1, inc — repeat from to around. (18 stitches)

This means you will work one single crochet in the first stitch, then two single crochets (an increase) in the next stitch, alternating all the way around the ring.

Round 4: Sc in each stitch around. (18 stitches)

This round keeps the disk flat before you begin decreasing.

If you want a slightly larger, puffier center, you can add one more plain round here. For a flatter center, skip it and move directly to the shaping.

Round 5: Sc 1, sc2tog (decrease) — repeat around. (12 stitches)

For a sc2tog (single crochet two together), insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up a loop, then insert the hook into the following stitch and pull up another loop — you now have three loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all three loops. That completes one decrease stitch.

Before you close the disk entirely, stuff it lightly with a pinch of polyfill. You want the center to look plump and button-like, not overstuffed and round like a ball. Think of a flat gumdrop shape.

Round 6: Sc2tog around. (6 stitches)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail of about 12 inches for sewing. Thread the tail through your yarn needle and run it through the front loop of each of the 6 remaining stitches, then pull gently to close. Weave the needle back through the body of the disk to secure the end before trimming.

Set your center disk aside.

Part Two: Crocheting the Petal Ring (White or Cream)

The petal ring is worked flat — it begins with a foundation chain and then each petal is worked up and back along the chain. This is the part that feels most satisfying because each petal takes only about thirty seconds once you have the motion memorized.

Foundation: With your white yarn, chain 6. Slip stitch into the first chain to form a small ring.

Round 1 — Base ring: Ch 1 (does not count as a stitch). Work 12 sc into the ring. Slip stitch to the first sc to join. (12 stitches)

You now have a small ring of 12 stitches. Each pair of stitches will become the base for one petal, giving you 6 petals total, which is classic for a daisy.

Making the petals: Each petal is worked as follows. You will repeat this sequence 6 times, once into each pair of base stitches.

Into the next stitch: Work (sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc) — this is 6 stitches all worked into one stitch, forming one half of the petal shape. Then slip stitch into the following stitch. This slip stitch becomes the valley between petals.

Repeat (sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc) into the next stitch, then sl st into the following stitch, all the way around until you have 6 petals.

Slip stitch to the base of the first petal to finish the round. Fasten off and leave a tail for weaving in.

Your petal ring should now have 6 beautiful rounded petals fanning outward from the center ring.

If you want slightly larger or more elongated petals, you can substitute triple crochet (treble crochet) for the two double crochets in the center of each petal. This gives the daisy a more naturalistic, slightly wild look — wonderful for garden-themed decorations.

Assembling the Daisy

Now comes the moment where your two pieces become a flower.

Place the center disk on top of the petal ring so the petal tips fan out from beneath the disk like a real daisy. The flat side of the disk should face down, with the domed side facing up. Center it visually — it does not need to be mathematically perfect because you are going to sew it in place and the petals will pull it into alignment.

Thread the long tail from the center disk onto your yarn needle. Using a whip stitch or a simple straight stitch, sew around the edge of the disk, catching both the edge of the disk and the base ring of the petal piece with each stitch. Work all the way around the circumference.

Take your time with this step. Neat, evenly spaced stitches here will keep the center from flopping to one side later. If you want a very secure join, go around twice.

Once the disk is firmly attached, weave the remaining tail through the body of the flower and trim close to the surface.

Weave in any remaining ends from the petal ring and the beginning of the center disk. Block lightly if needed — for a small piece like this, simply dampening it with a water mist and patting it into shape is usually enough.

Finishing Options and Ideas

Your daisy is complete, but what you do with it is entirely up to you. Here are some ideas to inspire you.

Brooch: Use a hot glue gun or hand-stitch a brooch back to the underside of the petal ring. Wear it on a jacket lapel, a scarf, or a tote bag.

Hair accessory: Sew or glue the daisy onto a hair clip, barrister clip, or headband. Children especially love these.

Garland: Make a long chain of daisies in alternating colors and string them together with a length of twine or ribbon for party decorations, nursery decor, or a cheerful kitchen garland.

Bouquet: Wire several daisies onto floral wire stems wrapped in green floral tape and arrange them in a small vase. Mixed with crocheted leaves (a simple oval worked in green yarn), they look remarkably realistic from across a room.

Appliqué: Sew daisies directly onto a crocheted or knitted blanket, a pillow cover, a denim jacket, or a plain canvas bag for a handmade touch.

Gift topper: Attach a daisy to the ribbon of a wrapped gift instead of a bow. The recipient gets two gifts in one.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

My petals are curling inward. This usually means your tension is too tight. Try going up half a hook size or consciously relaxing your grip on the yarn.

The center disk won’t close neatly. Make sure you are threading the tail through the front loops of the final round before pulling. If the hole still looks uneven, a few small stitches with the yarn needle across the opening will close it invisibly.

My petal ring is wonky and uneven. Uneven petals are almost always caused by an inconsistent stitch count in the petal itself. Count your stitches as you go — each petal should have exactly 6 stitches (sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc) with one slip stitch between petals.

The center disk looks lumpy. Check that your stuffing is evenly distributed inside the disk before you close it. A chopstick or pencil eraser can help you redistribute the filling through the remaining opening before you finish the decrease rounds.

My yarn is splitting and hard to work with. Slippery or loosely plied yarns can be frustrating for small amigurumi projects. A smooth, tightly spun cotton or acrylic yarn is much easier to work with. Save the fancy textured yarns for hats and scarves.

Tips for Making Your Daisy Even Better

Work tightly. In amigurumi, a dense, tight fabric looks more professional and holds the shape of the piece better than a looser one. If you can see light through your stitches, tighten up your tension or go down a hook size.

Count constantly. Small stitch counts mean that one missed increase or decrease throws off the whole shape. Get into the habit of counting at the end of every round.

Use a yarn needle with a blunt tip rather than a sharp embroidery needle. Blunt needles slide through the yarn loops more easily and are less likely to split the yarn.

Match your yarn weight to your hook. When yarn and hook are compatible, the stitches look cleaner and the fabric has better structure.

Block your finished daisy even if it looks fine right off the hook. A little steam or a gentle wet block evens out the stitches and gives the petals a professional, finished look.

How Long Does It Take to Make a Crocheted Daisy?

For a complete beginner, plan on about 45 minutes to an hour for your first daisy — most of that time is getting comfortable with the magic ring and the rhythm of the petal sequence. By your third or fourth daisy, you will likely be finishing them in 20 to 30 minutes. Experienced crocheters who have made a few before can often knock one out in 15 minutes or less, making them a perfect project to work on while watching a film or listening to a podcast.

Final Thoughts

Crocheting a daisy is one of those small, achievable projects that reminds you why you fell in love with making things by hand. The steps are simple, the materials are inexpensive, and the finished result is genuinely charming. More importantly, the skills you practice here — the magic ring, working in the round, shaping with increases and decreases, assembling pieces — are the same foundations you will use in every amigurumi project you ever make. Master a daisy and you have a road map for everything else.

Make one in white and yellow for a classic look. Make a whole field of them in soft pinks and lavenders for a spring aesthetic. Try deep burgundy and gold for an autumn wreath. There is no wrong color combination, and there is no version of this project that isn’t worth making.

Grab your hook, pick your colors, and let’s get crocheting. 🌼