Daisy Mini Plush Crochet Pattern: DK Cotton Yarn & Safety Eyes

There is something quietly magical about making a tiny stuffed flower from scratch. The way a flat circle of yarn transforms into a rounded, squishy little daisy with a cheerful center and petals you can actually feel — it is one of those small crafting wins that never gets old. Whether you are a beginner looking for your first amigurumi-style project or an experienced crocheter wanting a quick, satisfying make, this daisy mini plush pattern is exactly the kind of project that earns a permanent spot in your rotation.

This pattern uses DK weight cotton yarn and safety eyes to create a plush daisy that is equal parts adorable and durable. It sits in the palm of your hand, making it ideal as a gift, a keychain charm, a bag accessory, a nursery decoration, or simply a little desk companion that makes your workspace feel a little more alive. The cotton yarn gives it a clean, matte finish with beautiful stitch definition, and the safety eyes add a personality that makes each daisy feel like its own small character.

Let’s walk through everything you need to know — materials, abbreviations, gauge, the full pattern, and plenty of tips to help your daisy come out perfectly every time.

Why Cotton DK Yarn Is the Best Choice for Mini Plush Projects

Before we get into the actual pattern, it is worth taking a moment to talk about yarn choice, because it makes a genuine difference in how your finished plush looks and feels.

DK weight cotton yarn hits a sweet spot for small plush work. It is lighter than worsted, which means your stitches stay tidy and the finished piece does not become bulky or stiff. Cotton has very little stretch compared to acrylic or wool, which actually works in your favor here — it holds its shape beautifully, and the stuffing stays put without creating lumps or distortion over time.

Cotton is also naturally hypoallergenic, which matters if you are making this daisy for a baby or a young child. It is washable, which parents will appreciate, and it does not pill the way acrylic sometimes does after repeated handling. The texture of cotton yarn also photographs extremely well, so if you share your finished makes on social media or an online shop, the stitch detail will really pop.

Some great options for DK cotton yarn include Paintbox Yarns Simply DK, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in DK weight, We Are Knitters The Cotton, or Drops Safran. Any smooth, tightly spun DK cotton will work beautifully for this pattern. Avoid anything too fluffy or textured, as it will obscure the stitch definition and make the shaping harder to see as you work.

Materials You Will Need

Gathering your materials before you start will make the whole project feel smoother. Here is what you need:

Yarn: DK weight cotton yarn in yellow (for the petals and body), white (for the petal tips, if using two-tone), and green (optional, for a small stem or leaf). You will not need much — this is a mini project, so even small scraps or leftover yarn from other projects will do. Roughly 20–30 grams of your main color is more than enough.

Hook: A 3.0mm or 3.5mm crochet hook. Because we are working with DK cotton and want a tight, firm fabric to hold the stuffing in place, going slightly smaller than the yarn’s recommended hook size is intentional. The tighter fabric also prevents the white stuffing from showing through the stitches.

Safety eyes: Two 6mm black safety eyes. These are the kind with a plastic backing that locks behind the fabric, making them secure for display pieces. If this daisy is intended for a child under three, embroider the eyes instead using black embroidery floss — safety eyes, despite their name, are a choking hazard for very young children.

Polyfill stuffing: A small amount of polyester fiberfill. You want the daisy to feel firm and round, not floppy or flat, so do not be shy about stuffing it well.

Yarn needle: For weaving in ends and closing up the final round.

Stitch markers: Helpful for marking the beginning of each round, especially in the smaller sections.

Scissors.

Optional: A small amount of wire wrapped in floral tape if you want to add a poseable stem. This is a lovely touch for a bouquet or a vase display, but not necessary for the basic plush.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

This pattern is written in US crochet terminology.

MR — Magic ring (also called magic circle)
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
hdc — Half double crochet
dc — Double crochet
inc — Increase (two single crochets in the same stitch)
dec — Invisible decrease (insert hook through front loops only of next two stitches and complete as a single crochet)
BLO — Back loop only
FLO — Front loop only
st(s) — Stitch(es)
rnd — Round
rep — Repeat

Gauge

Gauge matters less for a plush toy than it does for a garment, but it does affect the final size of your daisy. With a 3.0mm hook and DK cotton yarn, 10 single crochets and 12 rows should measure approximately 4cm × 4cm. Your finished daisy mini plush will measure roughly 7–8cm across the widest point (petal to petal) and about 4–5cm in height once stuffed.

If your daisy comes out noticeably larger or smaller, adjust your hook size accordingly. A smaller hook means a smaller, firmer daisy; a larger hook means a floppier, larger one.

The Pattern: Daisy Mini Plush

The daisy is worked in two main pieces — the center button disc and the petal ring — which are then seamed together and stuffed. This construction method gives the finished daisy a clean, three-dimensional look that really reads as a flower rather than just a flat shape.

Part One: The Center Disc (Make 2 — one for front, one for back)

Use yellow yarn and a 3.0mm hook.

Rnd 1: Start with a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull ring closed. (6 sts)

Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)

Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc — repeat around. (18 sts)

Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc — repeat around. (24 sts)

Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc — repeat around. (30 sts)

Rnd 6: Work 1 sc in each st around. (30 sts)

Sl st to join. Fasten off for the back disc (leave a long tail for seaming). For the front disc, do not fasten off yet — you will attach the eyes and then join to the back disc.

Before closing up the front disc, attach your 6mm safety eyes. Position them slightly above the center of the disc, approximately 4–5 stitches apart. Push the shanks through the fabric and secure the backing washers firmly. Once the safety eyes are locked in place, they cannot be removed without damaging the fabric, so take a moment to make sure you are happy with the placement.

Part Two: Petal Ring

This is the part that really brings the daisy to life. The petal ring is worked separately as a flat strip and then seamed around the edge of the center disc.

Use white yarn (or yellow, if you prefer a fully yellow daisy) and a 3.0mm hook.

Foundation chain: Ch 7.

Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc 6. Turn. (6 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1. Sc 1, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 2, ch 2, sl st in same stitch (petal tip formed). Turn back to continue. Sl st down the side of the petal to the base. (1 petal completed)

Rows 3 and onward: Continue working petals in the same fashion along the chain foundation. Work a total of 10 petals.

Alternatively, if you prefer a slightly different petal construction method, here is a simpler individual petal approach that many crocheters find easier to maintain consistency with:

Individual Petal (make 10):

With white yarn, ch 8.

Rnd 1: Starting in second ch from hook — sc 1, hdc 1, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 1, ch 1. Now work back down the other side of the foundation chain: sc 1, hdc 1, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 1. Sl st to close the base of the petal.

Fasten off leaving a 15cm tail for attaching.

Make 10 petals total. Arrange them evenly around the back disc before attaching, pinning them in place if needed. Sew each petal to the edge of the back disc using the yarn tail and a yarn needle, spacing them as evenly as possible. Once all 10 petals are attached, hold the front disc against the back disc (wrong sides together, safety eyes facing outward) and seam them together using whip stitch or mattress stitch around the outer edge, leaving a 4–5 stitch gap for stuffing.

Stuff the center disc firmly with polyfill until it is rounded and satisfying to squeeze. Then close the gap completely with your seaming stitch. Weave in all ends.

Optional: Adding a Stem and Leaf

If you want your daisy to stand upright in a vase or be part of a small bouquet, a simple stem is easy to add.

Cut a length of floral wire (usually about 20cm for a mini plush). Bend a small loop at the top end using pliers. Using green DK cotton and a 3.0mm hook, work a chain long enough to cover your wire with a little overlap — approximately 50–60 chains for a 15cm stem.

Row 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc back along the entire length of the chain.

Fasten off and leave long tails. Wrap the crocheted strip around the wire, using the tails to secure the ends. Attach the looped top of the wire to the base of your daisy by threading it through a few stitches in the back disc and bending the loop flat.

For a small leaf, work a simple oval shape: ch 8, sc in second ch from hook, hdc 1, dc 2, hdc 1, sc 1, ch 1, then work back along the other side of the foundation chain in the same pattern. Sl st to join and fasten off. Attach to the stem at a natural-looking angle using the yarn tail.

Tips for a Perfect Mini Plush Daisy

A few things will genuinely improve your finished result, and they are all easy habits to build.

Work tightly. The single biggest factor in a neat plush is tension. If your stitches are loose, the stuffing will show through and the piece will look pilled or uneven. Go down a hook size if needed — there is no shame in using a 2.75mm hook with DK yarn if it gives you the fabric you want.

Use the magic ring. Some crocheters still start with a chain-two ring, but the magic ring gives you a much tighter, neater center with no gap. If you have not tried it, a two-minute tutorial video will have you converted immediately.

Count your stitches every round. It sounds tedious, but missing an increase or accidentally adding one will throw off the circular shaping. A stitch marker at the beginning of each round makes counting much easier.

Stuff before you close, not after. As soon as the seam is down to a 2–3 stitch gap, stuffing becomes frustrating. Leave yourself a comfortable opening and add the polyfill in small pieces, pushing it to the edges first and then filling the center.

Weave your ends in securely. Because cotton has low elasticity, ends can work loose more easily than in wool. Weave each tail in at least two directions and pull gently to test before trimming.

Block if needed. If your petals are curling in ways you do not like, a light spritz of water and a gentle pinning while drying will encourage them to lie flat and symmetrical.

Ways to Use Your Finished Daisy Mini Plush

One of the things that makes this pattern worth returning to again and again is how versatile the finished daisy is. Make a single one as a quick handmade gift tucked into a birthday card. Make a dozen in different colors and arrange them in a small ceramic pot for a desk decoration that requires zero watering. Stitch a loop of chain to the back and hang it from a gift bag handle. Add a keyring finding to the stem for a bag charm that will genuinely make people stop and ask where you got it.

These daisies also make wonderful additions to a crocheted landscape or fairy garden scene. Worked in a group alongside tiny mushrooms, bees, or snails, they create the kind of whimsical miniature world that is endlessly enjoyable to build and display.

For a craft fair or handmade shop, a set of three daisy mini plushes in a small gift box makes for a product that is simple to produce in batches and lovely to receive. The cost of materials per daisy is minimal when you are working from DK cotton scraps, which makes the margin very comfortable.

Variations and Customizations

The pattern as written produces a classic white-and-yellow daisy, but the basic construction works for any number of floral variations. Swap the white petals for purple and the yellow center for a deeper gold and you have a lavender. Use pink petals with a white center for a cherry blossom effect. Work the whole thing in shades of coral and peach for a more abstract, modern flower plush.

You can also play with scale. Working the same pattern in fingering weight yarn with a 2.0mm hook will give you a tiny brooch-sized daisy perfect for sewing onto a bag or hat. Working it in chunky cotton on a 5.0mm hook produces a large, pillow-like flower that works beautifully as a nursery decoration.

Embroidered details — small French knots in the center, a tiny smile embroidered below the safety eyes — add personality and can turn a quick craft project into a proper keepsake.

Storing and Caring for Your Cotton Plush

DK cotton plushes wash surprisingly well. Because the yarn is natural fiber with no wool content, there is no felting risk. You can machine wash on a gentle, cool cycle or hand wash in cool water with a mild detergent. Reshape gently and air dry flat or on a clean towel — a dryer is fine on low heat if you are in a hurry, though repeated high-heat drying can eventually dull the color slightly.

Store finished plushes away from direct sunlight if you want the colors to stay bright over a long period. Cotton can fade with sustained UV exposure, which is something to keep in mind if your daisy is living on a windowsill.

There is a particular satisfaction in finishing a mini plush that fits in the palm of your hand but took genuine skill and attention to make well. This daisy pattern is small in size but not in charm, and once you make one, you will almost certainly find yourself making several more. The materials are affordable, the project works up quickly, and the result is one of those handmade objects that carries a warmth that no manufactured toy can quite replicate.

Cast on, work the rounds, and let your little daisy take shape. You have everything you need.