Crochet Daffodil Flower Pattern – Cute Amigurumi PDF
Spring has a way of lifting the spirit, and nothing captures that feeling quite like a cheerful cluster of daffodils. Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter or someone who has just picked up their first hook, making a crochet daffodil is one of those projects that delivers enormous satisfaction for a surprisingly modest investment of time and skill. This guide walks you through everything you need to know about creating your own adorable amigurumi-style daffodil — from the materials you’ll need to the stitch-by-stitch construction of petals, trumpet, and stem — plus tips for finishing, display, and customizing your creation to match your personal style.
Why Crochet Daffodils Are Worth Your Time
Before we dive into the pattern itself, let’s talk about why so many crafters have fallen in love with crocheted flowers in general and daffodils in particular.
First, they last forever. Real daffodils fade within a week or two of being cut, but a crocheted one will sit cheerfully on your shelf, decorate your home, or adorn a handmade gift for years to come. They don’t need water, they don’t drop pollen on your furniture, and they don’t wilt when you forget about them for a weekend.
Second, they’re deeply versatile. A crocheted daffodil can become a brooch, a hair clip, a bag charm, a bouquet for a wedding or baby shower, a spring wreath centerpiece, or a sweet handmade card topper. Once you know the basic structure, you’ll start seeing opportunities to use these little flowers everywhere.
Third — and perhaps most importantly for those learning the craft — crocheted amigurumi flowers are an excellent intermediate project that cements your understanding of working in the round, increasing and decreasing, and joining separate pieces together. The skills you build making a daffodil translate directly into more complex amigurumi characters and 3D crochet projects.
Materials You’ll Need
Getting your supplies organized before you start is always a good idea. Here’s what you’ll want to have on hand.
Yarn: Choose a light worsted weight (size 3 or 4) yarn for a flower that measures approximately 3 to 4 inches across. For a more delicate, miniature bloom, fingering weight (size 1) yarn with a smaller hook gives a lovely result. For the daffodil’s iconic coloring, you’ll want yellow (or a warm cream for a pale variety) for the petals, a deeper golden orange or bright tangerine for the trumpet, and green for the stem and leaves. Acrylic yarn works wonderfully here because it holds its shape, washes easily, and comes in a gorgeous range of spring shades. Cotton yarn is another excellent option if you prefer a slightly firmer, more defined stitch structure.
Crochet Hook: For worsted weight yarn, a 3.5mm or 4.0mm hook works well. Adjust based on your tension — if your stitches feel tight, go up half a size.
Stuffing: A small amount of polyester fiberfill will give your trumpet a beautifully rounded, three-dimensional shape. You don’t need much — literally a pinch will do.
Wire (Optional): If you want your daffodil to stand in a vase or be posed, a length of floral wire wrapped with green yarn or floral tape makes a realistic and poseable stem. Green pipe cleaners also work beautifully and are much easier to work with.
Darning Needle: You’ll need this for weaving in ends and for sewing the individual components together.
Scissors: Any sharp pair will do.
Stitch Markers: Helpful for keeping track of the beginning of each round, especially when working in a continuous spiral (which this pattern uses).
Understanding the Daffodil’s Anatomy
A daffodil is made up of three distinct parts, and your crochet flower mirrors this structure exactly. Understanding what you’re building helps the pattern make intuitive sense.
The petals (botanically called the perianth) are the six flat, elongated outer segments that radiate outward from the center. In crochet, we often make these as two layers of three petals each, slightly offset from one another, to achieve that full, layered look.
The trumpet (botanically the corona) is the cup-shaped tube that juts forward from the center. It’s usually a deeper, more saturated shade than the petals — the classic daffodil has bright yellow petals and a vivid orange trumpet, though varieties range from pure white with a pale yellow trumpet to bright all-yellow blooms.
The stem and leaves ground the flower and give it height. In amigurumi style, you can make these as simple crocheted tubes and flat leaf shapes, or you can use wire for posability.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
Magic ring (MR), chain (ch), slip stitch (sl st), single crochet (sc), half double crochet (hdc), double crochet (dc), treble crochet (tr), increase (inc = 2 sc in same stitch), decrease (dec = sc2tog), finish off (FO), right side (RS).
This pattern is written for US crochet terminology.
The Pattern
Part One: The Petals (Make Two Layers)
Each petal layer consists of three petals worked together in a ring. You’ll make two layers total and stack them with an offset so all six petals are visible.
With yellow yarn:
Round 1: Start with a magic ring. Ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each stitch around. (12 sts)
Now you’ll work the individual petals. Each petal is worked back and forth (not in the round) to create a flat, elongated shape.
Petal 1:
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in the next 4 sts. Turn.
Row 2: Ch 1, dec, dec. (2 sts) Turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, inc in each of the 2 sts. (4 sts) Turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in 1 st, hdc in 1 st, dc in 1 st, dc in last st. Turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, dec, dec. (2 sts)
Row 7: Dec. (1 st)
Do not turn. Work a sl st border down the left side of the petal back to the base. This gives a neat, rounded edge. Sl st into the next stitch of the base ring to close the gap before starting the next petal.
Petals 2 and 3: Repeat the instructions above for each remaining group of 4 stitches in the base ring.
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Flatten the petal layer gently and weave in any stray ends.
Make a second identical petal layer. When both are complete, rotate one layer so the petals are offset by about 60 degrees from the first — this way, when you stack them, you’ll see all six petals rather than three hiding behind the others.
Sew the two layers together at the center base using your darning needle.
Part Two: The Trumpet
The trumpet is worked in the round in a continuous spiral, creating a small, cylindrical cup shape that widens slightly at the opening. Use your golden orange or deep yellow yarn for this piece.
With trumpet color yarn:
Round 1: MR, ch 1, 6 sc into the ring. Pull closed. (6 sts)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc in 1 st, inc in next st repeat around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Working in the back loops only (BLO), sc in each st around. (18 sts) — This creates the fold that defines the base of the trumpet.
Round 5: Sc in 2 sts, dec repeat around. (13 sts, approximately — adjust slightly if needed to maintain an even count.)
Actually, let’s simplify this for a cleaner trumpet:
Round 4 (BLO): Sc in each st around. (18 sts)
Round 5: Sc 1, dec repeat around. (12 sts)
Round 6: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 7: Sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Round 8 (flare): Inc in each st around. (24 sts)
Round 9: Sl st in each st around. (24 sts) — Fasten off.
Before fastening off completely, stuff the trumpet lightly with a tiny pinch of fiberfill. This helps it hold that gorgeous, rounded cup shape. Don’t overstuff — you want a gentle puffiness, not a hard ball.
Sew the trumpet onto the center of your stacked petal layers, with the wider, flared opening facing outward.
Part Three: The Stem
With green yarn:
For a simple soft stem (no wire):
Chain 30 (or longer for a taller flower). Starting in the 2nd chain from the hook, sl st in each chain back to the beginning. This creates a neat, rounded stem. Fasten off and leave a long tail.
For a wire stem: Cut a length of floral wire to your desired height. Fold the top 1 cm over into a small loop (this prevents the sharp tip from poking through later). Wrap the entire length with green yarn, securing with a dab of craft glue at each end, or use green floral tape for speed.
Sew the top of the stem to the back of your flower assembly using the long tail. Take several stitches through the base of the petals to secure everything firmly.
Part Four: The Leaves
With green yarn:
Chain 16. Starting in the 2nd chain from the hook:
Row 1: Sc in first 3 ch, hdc in next 4 ch, dc in next 4 ch, hdc in next 3 ch, sc in last ch. Do not turn. Continue working along the other side of the foundation chain.
Row 2 (other side): Sc in first ch, hdc in next 3 ch, dc in next 4 ch, hdc in next 4 ch, sc in last 3 ch.
Sl st to join at the tip of the leaf. Fasten off.
This creates a gently boat-shaped leaf. Make two or three leaves per flower. Attach them to the base of the stem, angling them downward slightly to mimic the natural growth habit of a real daffodil.
Finishing Touches
Now that all your pieces are assembled, take a few minutes on the finishing details — they make a bigger difference than you might expect.
Weave in every end carefully. Loose ends peeking through the stitches can distract from an otherwise beautiful flower. Thread each tail through several stitches in the same color area before trimming close.
If you’ve used acrylic yarn, a very brief steam (holding an iron a few inches above the surface, not touching) can help the petals relax into a more natural, slightly open position. Never iron directly onto acrylic — it will melt.
For cotton yarn, you can pin the flower to a foam blocking mat while damp and let it dry fully. This sets the shape beautifully and gives the petals a clean, crisp edge.
If you want your daffodil to stand upright in a vase without a wire stem, try filling a small terracotta pot with dried beans or craft sand and pressing the soft stem down into the filling. A cluster of three or five crocheted daffodils arranged this way makes an absolutely charming spring centerpiece.
Customization Ideas
One of the great joys of making your own crochet daffodil pattern is how easily it adapts to different aesthetics and purposes.
Color Variations: White petals with a pale lemon trumpet mimics the ‘Ice Follies’ variety. All-pale-yellow creates the classic ‘Carlton’ daffodil look. Deep orange petals with a rust trumpet gives a more dramatic, artistic feel. Even lavender or pink petals produce a whimsical fantasy flower that looks gorgeous in a spring wreath.
Size Variations: Work the entire pattern in fingering weight yarn with a 2mm hook for a tiny boutonnière flower, or scale up to bulky yarn and a 6mm hook for an oversized decorative bloom that looks stunning on a throw pillow.
Add a Face: For a truly amigurumi-style flower, add safety eyes to the trumpet before stuffing and closing it, and embroider a small smile. This turns your daffodil into an adorable character — wonderful for children’s room décor, soft toys, or handmade gifts for plant-loving friends.
Bouquet Assembly: Make a bundle of seven to nine flowers in varying heights. Bind the stems together with a coordinating ribbon and fan the leaves outward. Placed in a mason jar with some faux greenery, this makes an absolutely stunning handmade gift for birthdays, housewarmings, Mother’s Day, or any occasion that calls for a little extra color and care.
Wreath Integration: Hot glue finished flowers (without stems) directly onto a grapevine or foam wreath base, filling in gaps with crocheted green leaves. A spring wreath made this way will last for many years and costs a fraction of store-bought versions.
Bookmark: Sew a finished daffodil head (petals and trumpet, no stem) onto a strip of stiff ribbon or a crocheted chain strip to create a cheerful 3D bookmark. These are quick to make in quantity and are beloved by anyone who loves reading and crafting in equal measure.
Tips for Getting the Best Results
A few practical notes to help your daffodil turn out beautifully on the first try.
Tension matters more than you think with small 3D pieces. If your stitches are too loose, the fiberfill inside the trumpet will show through the gaps. Err on the side of slightly tighter tension — it gives the finished flower a neater, more polished appearance.
When working the petal layer, blocking the individual petals before assembly helps them lay flat and even. Just pin each petal while damp and let dry.
If your magic ring keeps slipping open, try starting with a slip knot around your finger instead, or reinforce the ring with a single stitch through the center after pulling it closed.
When sewing pieces together, use a color-matched yarn and a darning needle. Work slowly and take your time placing the trumpet exactly in the center of the petal assembly before securing it — a slightly off-center trumpet is the most common issue beginners notice after finishing, and it’s much easier to adjust before the sewing thread is tightened.
Sharing Your Makes
Once you’ve finished your daffodil, the crocheting community absolutely loves to see what others are making. If you share your finished project on Instagram or Pinterest, try tags like #crochetdaffodil, #amigurumiflowers, #crochetflowers, or #springcrochet — you’ll quickly find a warm, enthusiastic audience and plenty of inspiration for your next project.
If you’re a crafter who sells on Etsy or at craft fairs, a crochet daffodil PDF pattern is a genuinely popular product, particularly in late winter and early spring when people are hungry for bright, cheerful projects to shake off the cold. Listing your own variation of this flower — with your specific color choices, sizing notes, and customization ideas — is a wonderful way to share your creativity and contribute something meaningful to the pattern-making community.
A Few Words on PDF Patterns
If you’re looking to save this pattern for offline use, print it, or share it with a crafting group, organizing your instructions into a clean PDF format is highly recommended. A well-formatted crochet PDF pattern typically includes a clear materials list, abbreviations key, gauge swatch information (how many stitches and rows equal one inch), the stitch-by-stitch instructions organized by section, and a few finished photos to guide assembly. Adding labeled diagrams or stitch charts takes your pattern to the next level and makes it accessible to visual learners and international crafters who may use different crochet terminology systems.
Final Thoughts
There is something genuinely lovely about making a flower with your own hands. A crocheted daffodil carries with it all the warmth of the craft — the time spent, the small decisions about color and shape, the satisfaction of seeing separate pieces come together into something recognizable and beautiful. Whether you make one for your own home or a dozen to give away, these cheerful little blooms have a way of making people smile.
The pattern above gives you a solid foundation, but please feel free to experiment. Change the proportions of the pet
