Crochet Chrysanthemum Flower – Free Pattern
There is something quietly magical about a chrysanthemum. Its hundreds of petals spiral outward in layered rings, each one curving just slightly toward the center, creating a bloom that looks both precise and impossibly full. When you translate that flower into crochet, you end up with something that carries the same charm — a project that rewards patience with a finished piece you will want to use everywhere, from hair accessories and brooch pins to home décor and gift toppers.
This free crochet chrysanthemum flower pattern is written for beginners who are comfortable with the basics but is satisfying enough to keep experienced crocheters engaged. You will work in joined rounds from the center outward, building layers of petals that give the flower its signature dimensional look. Once you understand the structure, you will likely find yourself making these by the dozen.
What You Will Need
Before you cast on, gather your materials. One of the best things about this pattern is how little it asks of you in terms of supplies. A small amount of yarn goes a very long way, which makes these flowers ideal for using up scraps from other projects.
Yarn: Any weight works beautifully here, but worsted weight (medium, category 4) is the easiest to start with because the stitches are large enough to see clearly. Sport or DK weight yarn produces a more delicate flower, and bulky yarn creates a bold, show-stopping bloom. Choose a color that excites you — traditional golden yellow, deep burgundy, soft lavender, or pure white all look stunning. You can also use two different colors, one for the center rounds and another for the outer petals, to mimic the look of real chrysanthemum varieties.
Hook: Match your hook size to your yarn. For worsted weight, a 5mm (H/8) hook is a reliable choice. Go down a half size if you want tighter, crisper petals.
Scissors and a yarn needle: For weaving in ends when you finish.
Optional: A stitch marker to track your rounds, a brooch pin or hair clip to attach to the finished flower, and a small amount of craft wire if you want to make a sturdier stem.
Gauge
Gauge is not critical for this project since the finished size does not need to fit anything precisely. That said, if you want to know what to expect: worked in worsted weight yarn with a 5mm hook, the finished flower will measure approximately 3.5 to 4 inches in diameter. Using DK weight and a 4mm hook brings it to about 2.5 to 3 inches. Sport weight with a 3.5mm hook produces a flower closer to 2 inches, which is lovely for earrings or delicate hair pins.
Abbreviations Used in This Pattern
This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout.
ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble crochet
sp — space
st — stitch
MR — magic ring (also called a magic circle)
rep — repeat
* — repeat instructions between asterisks the indicated number of times
Special Stitch: The Petal Loop
This pattern uses a technique where you chain a certain number of stitches, then slip stitch back into the base stitch to create a loop. These loops are then worked into on the following round to form the petals. It sounds more complicated than it is — after your first couple of rounds you will see exactly how the petal shapes emerge, and the logic will feel natural.
The Free Crochet Chrysanthemum Pattern
Center
Begin with a magic ring. If you are not comfortable with the magic ring technique, you can chain 4 and slip stitch into the first chain to form a small ring instead — this creates a slightly larger hole in the center but is equally secure.
Round 1: Ch 1, work 8 sc into the MR, sl st to first sc to join. (8 stitches)
Pull the magic ring tail snug so the center closes completely. This tight center is what gives your chrysanthemum its neat, compact heart.
Round 2: Ch 1, work 2 sc into each st around, sl st to first sc to join. (16 stitches)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, rep from to around, sl st to first sc to join. (24 stitches)
At this point your center should look like a small flat circle about three-quarters of an inch across in worsted weight. The surface will be firm and neat. These three rounds form the foundation that all your petal layers will attach to, so take a moment to make sure your tension is even before you continue.
First Petal Layer (Inner Petals)
The inner petals are the shortest and tightest, sitting close to the center of the flower. They give the chrysanthemum its dense, layered heart.
Round 4 (Petal Loop Round): Ch 1, sl st in next st, ch 8, rep from to around, working one ch-8 loop for each of the 24 stitches. At the end, sl st to the first sl st to join. (24 petal loops)
You should now have 24 loops arching out from your center circle like a little crown. Don’t worry if they look chaotic at this stage — they will organize themselves beautifully in the next round.
Round 5 (Working the Inner Petals): Working into each ch-8 loop, sc, hdc, 3 dc, hdc, sc into each loop around. Sl st to first sc to join. (24 inner petals complete)
Take a breath and look at what you have. The petals will be curving slightly because of the tension of the chain loops, and the center will be peeking out underneath them like the heart of a real bloom. This is exactly what you want.
Second Petal Layer (Middle Petals)
The middle petals are longer than the inner ones, which forces them to flare outward and creates that stacked, layered look that defines the chrysanthemum silhouette.
To work this layer, you will need to get your hook behind the first petal layer and back into Round 3. Tilt the inner petals forward gently with your fingers. You will see the stitches of Round 3 peeking through behind the petals. You are going to work into those stitches.
Round 6 (Petal Loop Round): Insert your hook into any stitch of Round 3 from the back. Ch 1, sl st in next st of Round 3, ch 12, rep from to around all 24 stitches of Round 3, sl st to first sl st to join. (24 petal loops)
Round 7 (Working the Middle Petals): Working into each ch-12 loop, sc, hdc, dc, 3 tr, dc, hdc, sc into each loop around. Sl st to first sc to join. (24 middle petals complete)
These petals will be noticeably larger than the inner ones and will flare outward at a wider angle. The flower is already beginning to take on real dimension now, and the resemblance to an actual chrysanthemum is growing with each round.
Third Petal Layer (Outer Petals)
The outer petals are the largest and they define the overall diameter of the flower. They lay flat against whatever surface the flower rests on and frame the inner layers like a backdrop.
For this layer, you will work back into Round 2.
Round 8 (Petal Loop Round): Tilt all the existing petals forward and locate Round 2 at the very base, just behind Round 3. Insert your hook into any stitch of Round 2. Ch 1, sl st in next st of Round 2, ch 16, rep from to around all 16 stitches of Round 2, sl st to first sl st to join. (16 petal loops)
Note that this round has fewer loops than the previous ones — only 16, matching the stitch count of Round 2. This is intentional. The longer chain compensates for the reduced number of petals and ensures the outer ring still creates full, lush coverage.
Round 9 (Working the Outer Petals): Working into each ch-16 loop, sc, hdc, dc, 2 tr, ch 2, sl st in first ch (this creates a tiny picot at the tip of each petal), 2 tr, dc, hdc, sc into each loop around. Sl st to first sc to join. (16 outer petals complete)
The picot at the tip of each outer petal is a small but beautiful detail that makes the finished flower look incredibly refined. It mimics the slightly pointed tip you often see on real chrysanthemum petals and adds a handcrafted quality that elevates the whole piece.
Finishing the Flower
Fasten off and leave a long tail of about 8 to 10 inches for sewing. Use your yarn needle to weave in all other ends — there will likely be one or two loose tails at the center if you used a joining slip stitch to start instead of a magic ring.
If you are attaching the flower to a hair clip or brooch pin, use the long tail and a yarn needle to stitch it securely to the back of the flower, then weave the tail in through several stitches on the wrong side before trimming.
If you want to add a button center (which looks lovely and gives the flower a polished finishing touch), use the long tail to sew a small flat button right at the center of the flower before fastening off.
Sizing Variations
One of the best things about this pattern is how easily it scales. Here are a few adjustments to help you customize the size.
For a miniature chrysanthemum suitable for earrings or delicate accessories, use fingering weight yarn with a 2.25mm hook. Work only the center and one petal layer, stopping after Round 5. The result will be a tiny flower roughly an inch across that is perfect for lightweight jewelry.
For a small chrysanthemum suitable for hair pins or card decorating, use sport or DK weight yarn with a 3.5mm to 4mm hook. Work all three petal layers but reduce the chain counts slightly: try ch 6, ch 10, and ch 14 instead of 8, 12, and 16.
For a large statement chrysanthemum suitable for pillows, wall hangings, or bag embellishments, use bulky weight yarn with a 6mm to 8mm hook. You can even add a fourth petal layer by working back into Round 1 with ch 20 loops and filling each loop with a generous petal made of sc, hdc, dc, 3 tr, dc, hdc, sc.
Color Ideas and Inspiration
The chrysanthemum is one of the most color-versatile flowers in the world, and that translates beautifully to crochet. A few combinations worth trying:
A gradient chrysanthemum is made by starting the center in a deep shade — burgundy, forest green, or navy — and switching to progressively lighter shades for each petal layer. The effect is stunning and mimics the way real flowers deepen toward their centers.
A two-tone chrysanthemum uses one color for all the petal loop rounds and a contrasting color for the actual petal stitches. Because the petal loops create the structure and the petal stitches create the visible surface, switching between them creates a subtle layered color effect.
A monochromatic chrysanthemum in pure white or ivory has an almost sculptural quality that looks elegant pinned to a winter coat or used as a decorative element on a gift.
For a cheerful, seasonal look, consider golden yellow or pumpkin orange for autumn, soft pink or lilac for spring, and red or deep magenta for a holiday wreath accent.
Ways to Use Your Finished Chrysanthemum
These flowers are genuinely one of the most versatile crochet items you can make. Once you have a few finished, you will find yourself reaching for them constantly.
Hair accessories are probably the most popular use. Stitch the flower directly onto a headband, sew it to a hair clip, or attach it to a wrapped elastic. They look particularly beautiful in clusters of two or three flowers in varying sizes.
Brooches are another classic option. A simple pin back, available at any craft store, sewn securely to the back of the flower creates a wearable accessory that elevates any jacket, bag, or scarf.
Gift wrapping and cards are transformed by a small crochet chrysanthemum tucked into a bow or glued to the front of a handmade card. Recipients often keep them long after the gift itself has been used up.
Wreaths and garlands benefit beautifully from a scattering of crochet flowers. Attach them to a grapevine wreath with hot glue for a rustic fall decoration, or string them along a length of twine for a festive garland.
Pillow and blanket embellishments are a lovely way to personalize your home textiles. Sewing a chrysanthemum onto the corner of a throw pillow or the center of a baby blanket adds a handmade touch that store-bought items simply cannot match.
Bookmarks are an unexpected but charming use. Make a small chrysanthemum, attach it to a length of ribbon or a chain of yarn, and you have a gift any book lover will treasure.
Tips for Success
Working behind existing petal layers to access earlier rounds can feel awkward at first. Use a shorter crochet hook or a tapestry needle to help you locate and open up the stitches in earlier rounds before inserting your working hook. Good lighting makes a significant difference here.
Keep your tension consistent but not too tight. Overly tight tension makes it difficult to work the petal loops and can pull the center of the flower out of shape. If you find yourself fighting the yarn, loosen up.
Block your finished flower gently if you want it to lay especially flat. Lightly mist it with water, shape it with your fingers, and pin it to a blocking mat or towel until dry. This is particularly helpful for larger flowers.
If your petals are twisting rather than curving forward, try chaining one extra stitch in each petal loop round. Sometimes just a tiny bit more length in the loop solves the problem entirely.
A Note on Making This Pattern Your Own
Patterns are starting points, not rulebooks. Once you understand how this chrysanthemum is constructed — a tight center, followed by rounds of looped chains, followed by rounds of petals worked into those loops, stacked in layers — you can experiment freely. Try working petals in rows for a more dramatic ruffle. Try alternating colors every other petal within a single round. Try leaving some petals unworked to create an asymmetrical, artistic look.
The chrysanthemum has been a beloved symbol in art and culture for thousands of years, revered in Japan as an emblem of longevity and happiness, celebrated in European traditions as a flower of remembrance and honor. When you pick up your hook and begin building one petal at a time, you are participating in a long and lovely history of people finding beauty in this particular bloom.
Make one for yourself. Make a dozen for gifts. Make them in every color your yarn stash offers. The pattern will be waiting here whenever you are ready to begin again.
Happy crocheting, and feel free to share your finished chrysanthemums — there is nothing better than seeing how different yarns, colors, and hands bring the same pattern to life in completely different ways.
