Amigurumi Sunflower Free Pattern: Stitch Your Own Cheerful Bloom
There is something undeniably joyful about a sunflower. The way it turns its face toward the light, the bold contrast of golden petals against a dark chocolate center, the sheer generosity of its size — sunflowers have always felt like the happiest flower in the garden. Now imagine capturing all of that warmth in a soft, huggable crochet form that never wilts, never needs watering, and stays sunny on even the grayest of days. That is exactly what this amigurumi sunflower pattern delivers.
Whether you are a seasoned crocheter looking for a satisfying afternoon project or a beginner who has just mastered the magic ring and wants to try something a little more ambitious, this free pattern has you covered. It walks you through every step, from the tightly stitched center disk to the cheerful rows of petals, so that by the end you will have a three-dimensional sunflower that looks stunning in a vase, on a shelf, pinned to a bag, or gifted to someone who could use a little sunshine in their life.
Let’s get into it.
What Is Amigurumi, and Why Make a Sunflower?
Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small, stuffed figures. The word itself combines the Japanese words for “knit” and “stuffed toy,” and the craft has exploded in popularity worldwide over the past two decades. While amigurumi traditionally refers to animals or characters, the technique has been beautifully adapted to plants, food, objects, and everything in between — including flowers.
The sunflower is a particularly satisfying amigurumi subject for a few reasons. First, its structure is naturally suited to the technique: a round, flat center that lends itself perfectly to working in the round, surrounded by a ring of elongated petals that are each crocheted individually and then assembled. Second, the color palette is simple and bold — you only need two or three main colors, which makes material shopping easy. Third, sunflowers are universally recognized and universally loved, so they make an ideal gift for virtually anyone.
Materials You Will Need
Before you begin, gather everything you need so the project flows without interruption.
Yarn: You will need worsted weight yarn (Category 4) in three colors. The first is a deep golden yellow for the petals — look for a warm, saturated shade rather than a pale lemon. The second is a dark brown or chocolate brown for the center disk. The third is a medium green for the stem and leaves, though you can skip the stem if you prefer a flat floral piece.
Hook: A 3.5mm or 4.0mm crochet hook works well with worsted weight yarn for amigurumi. The tighter your gauge, the better, because tight stitches prevent the stuffing from showing through.
Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill is the standard for amigurumi. Use enough to give the center disk a slightly rounded, dimensional look without overstuffing it into a ball.
Notions: A yarn needle for weaving in ends and sewing pieces together, scissors, stitch markers (locking markers are easiest for amigurumi), and safety eyes if you want to give your sunflower a slightly playful character. Optional: floral wire or a wooden dowel if you want to create a standing stem.
Gauge: Approximately 16 sc x 18 rows = 4 inches in single crochet with a 4.0mm hook. For amigurumi, gauge matters less than tension — aim for fabric that is firm enough not to show gaps.
Abbreviations and Stitches Used
This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.
MR — Magic ring (also called magic circle)
ch — Chain
sl st — Slip stitch
sc — Single crochet
hdc — Half double crochet
dc — Double crochet
inc — Increase (2 sc in the same stitch)
dec — Invisible decrease (insert hook through front loops of next two stitches, yarn over and pull through both, yarn over and pull through remaining two loops)
BLO — Back loop only
FLO — Front loop only
st(s) — Stitch(es)
rnd — Round
( ) x [number] — Repeat the instructions in the parentheses the indicated number of times
Part One: The Center Disk
The center is worked in continuous rounds using the dark brown yarn.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (Sc in next st, inc in next st) x 6. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: (Sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st) x 6. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: (Sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st) x 6. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: (Sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st) x 6. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: (Sc in next 5 sts, inc in next st) x 6. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: (Sc in next 6 sts, inc in next st) x 6. (48 sts)
Rounds 9 through 12: Sc in each st around. (48 sts per round)
At this point your disk should measure roughly 3.5 inches across. If you want a larger sunflower, work one additional increase round: (sc in next 7 sts, inc in next st) x 6 to reach 54 sts, then continue with even rounds.
Rnd 13: (Sc in next 6 sts, dec) x 6. (42 sts)
Rnd 14: (Sc in next 5 sts, dec) x 6. (36 sts)
Begin stuffing the center disk with polyester fiberfill now, shaping it so the front is lightly domed and the back is fairly flat.
Rnd 15: (Sc in next 4 sts, dec) x 6. (30 sts)
Rnd 16: (Sc in next 3 sts, dec) x 6. (24 sts)
Rnd 17: (Sc in next 2 sts, dec) x 6. (18 sts)
Add any remaining stuffing and close the circle fully before proceeding.
Rnd 18: (Sc in next st, dec) x 6. (12 sts)
Rnd 19: Dec x 6. (6 sts)
Fasten off, leaving a short tail. Thread the tail through the front loops of the remaining 6 stitches and pull tight to close. Weave in the end.
If you like, you can add a subtle texture to the front face of the disk by surface slip stitching a spiral or a grid pattern with an even darker brown or black yarn. This gives the center a more realistic, seed-filled appearance that really elevates the finished piece. Simply thread your yarn needle with the contrast color, insert it through the front of the disk, and work short running stitches in a pattern you like before securing the ends at the back.
Part Two: The Petals
Sunflower petals are the most time-intensive part of this project, but each one is quick to make and the repetition becomes almost meditative once you get your rhythm. You will make 16 petals in total — 8 for the inner ring and 8 for the outer ring. If you want an especially full flower, make 20 petals and distribute them evenly.
Each petal is worked in rows using the golden yellow yarn.
To make one petal:
Foundation: Ch 10.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in last st. Turn. (9 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in last st. Turn. (9 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next st, dc in next 3 sts, hdc in next st, sc in next 2 sts. Turn. (9 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next 5 sts, hdc in next st, sc in last st. Turn. (9 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next st, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts. Turn. (9 sts)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts. Turn. (9 sts)
Row 7: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog. (7 sts)
Row 8: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog. (5 sts)
Row 9: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog. (3 sts)
Row 10: Ch 1, sc3tog. (1 st)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The petal should be a naturally tapered, slightly curved oval shape. If yours is curling significantly, try going up one hook size for the petals only, or lightly block each petal with a damp cloth and allow it to dry flat.
Repeat this 16 times (or 20 times for a fuller flower). Sorting them into two groups of 8 as you go makes the assembly step easier.
Part Three: The Stem and Leaves (Optional)
If you want a standalone stuffed sunflower, the stem is a wonderful addition. It is worked as a simple tube in the round using green yarn.
Rnd 1: MR, 6 sc into the ring. (6 sts)
Rnds 2 through 30: Sc in each st around, working in a tight continuous spiral. (6 sts per round)
The finished stem will be approximately 5 inches long, which suits a small decorative piece. For a longer stem, simply continue working more rounds. Lightly stuff the stem with fiberfill as you work, or insert a length of floral wire wrapped in a little stuffing for a poseable stem that holds its shape.
To fasten off the stem: Sl st into the next st, ch 1, and leave a long tail for attaching to the flower.
Leaves: Make two leaves using green yarn.
Foundation: Ch 12.
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in last st. Turn. (11 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, sl st in first st, sc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next st, sl st in last st. Fasten off. (11 sts)
Work one row of reverse single crochet (also called crab stitch) around the entire outer edge of each leaf if you want a neat, defined border. Weave in ends and set aside.
Part Four: Assembly
This is where your sunflower comes to life, and it is deeply satisfying to watch all the separate pieces come together.
Begin with the inner ring of petals. Lay the center disk face-up on a flat surface and arrange 8 petals evenly around it, with the wide base of each petal tucked just under the outer edge of the disk. The tip of each petal should point outward. Using a yarn needle and a length of yellow yarn, stitch each petal to the underside of the disk, passing through the edge of the disk and the base of the petal several times to secure it. When you have attached all 8 petals in the inner ring, flip the flower over and check that they are evenly spaced from the back.
Now attach the outer ring of 8 petals. Position them in the gaps between the inner petals, slightly further out and angled to peek out from behind the inner layer. Stitch these down in the same way, making sure each one is firmly secured. The double layer of petals gives the flower a full, lush appearance that closely resembles a real sunflower’s structure.
If you are adding a stem, attach it to the center back of the disk, stitching the open end of the tube firmly to the back of the flower and reinforcing the join several times. Attach the two leaves at the base of the stem or halfway up it, using a few tight stitches on each side.
Finishing Touches and Customization Ideas
Now that your sunflower is assembled, take a moment to look it over. Fluff the petals if they feel flat, reshaping them gently between your fingers. If any petal looks unruly, a very light mist of water and a few minutes of gentle reshaping will coax it into place.
Here are a few ways to make this pattern your own. You can swap the golden yellow for a rusty orange or even a deep burgundy to create a more unusual variety — think teddy bear sunflowers or autumn-toned arrangements. You can size the entire project up by using bulky weight yarn and a 6mm hook for a generous, pillow-sized bloom, or size it down dramatically with fingering weight yarn and a 1.75mm hook for a delicate brooch or hair clip.
Speaking of brooches: sewing a pin back onto the back of a petal-less version of the center disk, paired with just four or six small petals, creates a charming wearable accessory. A small loop of yarn added to the back of the disk transforms the flower into an ornament or a gift tag.
For a bouquet effect, make several flowers in different sizes, wrap the stems together with floral tape, and arrange them in a small vase. Mixing in a few amigurumi leaves and buds makes the arrangement look remarkably lush.
Care Instructions for Your Finished Sunflower
Because this sunflower is made with worsted weight acrylic or acrylic-blend yarn (most crafters’ go-to for amigurumi), it is typically machine washable on a gentle cycle in cool water. Place it in a mesh laundry bag to protect the petals during washing, and reshape it gently while it is still damp. Lay it flat to dry rather than putting it in the dryer, which can cause the stuffing to clump and the petals to distort.
If you used natural fibers like cotton or wool, hand washing in cool water is the safer choice. Gently squeeze out excess water without wringing and reshape before drying.
A Few Tips for Beginners
If this is one of your first amigurumi projects, a couple of small habits will make a noticeable difference in your finished piece. Always use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each round — amigurumi is worked in a continuous spiral without closing rounds, and it is very easy to lose your place without a marker. Move the marker up at the end of each round.
Work with slightly tighter tension than you normally would. Amigurumi pieces need to be stuffed, and loose stitches will let the white fiberfill peek through in a way that detracts from the finished look. If you find yourself struggling with tension, try going down a half hook size.
Finally, do not rush the assembly. Taking the time to evenly space and securely attach each petal is what separates a finished amigurumi that looks polished and intentional from one that looks slightly lopsided. A few extra minutes with the yarn needle is always worth it.
Why This Pattern Makes a Perfect Gift
Handmade gifts carry a weight that store-bought items simply cannot match. When you give someone a crocheted sunflower, you are giving them something that took your time, attention, and skill to create. Sunflowers carry associations with warmth, loyalty, and longevity
