Free PDF Pattern: Crochet Camellia Rose

There is something deeply satisfying about holding a finished crochet flower in your hands. The way the petals curl slightly at the edges, the way the layers build on each other to create something that looks almost too delicate to have been made with yarn and a hook — it never gets old. The Crochet Camellia Rose is one of those patterns that manages to look impressively complex while remaining genuinely accessible, even to crafters who are still finding their footing with three-dimensional crochet work.

This post includes a free downloadable PDF pattern for the Crochet Camellia Rose, along with a full written tutorial, tips for customizing your finished flower, and plenty of ideas for how to use it once you’re done. Whether you’re making a single statement bloom or working up a dozen for a garland, a wreath, or a gift topper, this pattern will become one you reach for again and again.

Why the Camellia Rose?

Camellias are one of the most elegant flowers in the natural world. They bloom in cooler months when most other flowers have long since faded, and their perfectly layered petals have inspired artists, designers, and craftspeople for centuries. Coco Chanel famously adored the camellia and incorporated it into her designs so often that it became a symbol of the entire Chanel brand. There is a reason this particular flower has endured as a motif across so many art forms — it simply never goes out of style.

Translating a camellia into crochet requires thinking in layers. Unlike a basic single-petal flower worked in the round, the camellia rose is built from multiple tiers of petals, each one slightly larger than the last, sewn or joined together to create depth and dimension. The result is a flower that photographs beautifully, holds its shape well when blocked, and can be scaled up or down depending on the yarn weight and hook size you choose.

Materials You Will Need

Before you dive into the pattern, gather your supplies. One of the great things about this project is that it works beautifully with yarn scraps, so if you have leftover skeins from other projects, now is a great time to put them to use.

Yarn: This pattern works well in DK weight, worsted weight, or cotton yarn. For the most defined petals, a smooth yarn with good stitch definition is ideal. Cotton yarns are particularly lovely for this pattern because they hold their shape without much blocking effort, and they come in a wonderful range of colors.

Hook: Use whatever hook size corresponds to your chosen yarn. For DK weight, a 3.5mm to 4mm hook works well. For worsted weight, try a 4.5mm to 5mm hook. If you want a firmer, tighter fabric for your petals (which helps them hold their shape), go down one hook size from what the yarn label recommends.

Notions: You’ll need a yarn needle for weaving in ends and assembling the layers, a pair of scissors, and optionally some floral wire or a button for the center if you want to add extra structure or embellishment. Stitch markers are helpful but not strictly required.

Optional extras: Felt or fabric backing, a brooch pin or hair clip if you plan to wear your finished flower, floral wire if you’re attaching the bloom to a stem, and fabric stiffener or starch spray if you want very crisp petals.

Stitch Glossary

This pattern uses US crochet terminology throughout.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble crochet
MR — magic ring (also called a magic circle or adjustable loop)
sk — skip
st(s) — stitch(es)
sp — space
rep — repeat
[ ] — work all stitches inside brackets into the same stitch or space

Skill Level

This pattern is rated intermediate. You should be comfortable with the magic ring, basic stitch increases, working in rows (for individual petal layers), and joining rounds with a slip stitch. If you’ve made a basic granny square or a simple stuffed amigurumi toy, you have more than enough experience to tackle this flower. First-time crocheters might want to practice a few basic stitch types first, but adventurous beginners are absolutely welcome to give it a try.

Understanding the Construction

The Crochet Camellia Rose is built from four separate petal layers, each worked flat and then assembled. Working the layers separately gives you much more control over the finished shape than trying to build everything in one continuous piece. It also means you can make each layer in a different shade of the same color for an ombre effect, or even mix coordinating colors for a more playful result.

Layer 1 (Smallest — Center Petals): 5 petals
Layer 2 (Small): 6 petals
Layer 3 (Medium): 7 petals
Layer 4 (Largest — Outer Petals): 8 petals

Once all four layers are complete, you’ll stack them, rotate each layer slightly so the petals are offset from the layer below, and stitch them together through the center.

The Pattern

Layer 1 — Center Petals (Make 1)

Start with a magic ring.

Round 1: Ch 1, work 10 sc into the MR, join with sl st to the first sc. Pull gently on the yarn tail to close the ring. (10 sts)

Now you’ll work the petals directly off this foundation round. Each petal is worked in rows over a set number of stitches, and then you’ll slip stitch across to the next petal’s starting point.

Petal 1: Ch 1, sc in the same st, sc in the next st. Turn. (2 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, [2 sc] in each st across. Turn. (4 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first st, hdc in the next 2 sts, sc in the last st. Turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc2tog. (2 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog. Fasten off or sl st back down to the foundation round.

Slip stitch into the next 2 stitches on the foundation round.

Repeat Petal 1 instructions four more times until you have 5 petals total, sl stitching across 2 sts of the foundation round between each petal. Join the last petal to the beginning with a sl st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for assembly.

Layer 2 — Small Petals (Make 1)

Round 1: MR, ch 1, work 12 sc into the ring, join with sl st. (12 sts)

Work petals as in Layer 1, but sl stitch across 2 sts of the foundation round between each petal, working 6 petals total. For a slightly wider petal, add one extra sc into the first and last stitch of Row 2 to give each petal 5 sts before shaping.

You can also add an extra row between rows 2 and 3 for a taller petal by working: Ch 1, sc across, turn.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for assembly.

Layer 3 — Medium Petals (Make 1)

Round 1: MR, ch 1, work 14 sc into the ring, join with sl st. (14 sts)

Work 7 petals total, sl stitching across 2 sts between each petal.

For the medium layer, work each petal as follows:

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next st, sc in next st. Turn. (3 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, [2 sc] in first st, sc in next st, [2 sc] in last st. Turn. (5 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in last st. Turn.
Row 4: Ch 1, sk first st, sc in next 3 sts, sk last st. (3 sts)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc3tog. Fasten off or sl st to base.

Fasten off layer, leaving a long tail for assembly.

Layer 4 — Outer Petals (Make 1)

Round 1: MR, ch 1, work 16 sc into the ring, join with sl st. (16 sts)

Work 8 petals total, sl stitching across 2 sts between petals.

For the large outer petals:

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next st, sc in next st. Turn. (3 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, [2 sc] in first st, sc in next, [2 sc] in last. Turn. (5 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, [2 sc] in first st, sc in next 3, [2 sc] in last. Turn. (7 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in first, hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, sc in last. Turn.
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first, hdc in next 2, sc in next, hdc in next 2, sc in last. Turn.
Row 6: Ch 1, sk first, sc in next 5, sk last. (5 sts)
Row 7: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next, sc2tog. (3 sts)
Row 8: Ch 1, sc3tog. Fasten off or sl st to base.

Fasten off layer, leaving a long tail.

Assembly

Lay all four layers flat in front of you, from largest (Layer 4) to smallest (Layer 1). Take your yarn needle and thread a length of yarn in a neutral or matching color.

Place Layer 4 flat on your work surface. Place Layer 3 on top of it, rotating it about 25 degrees so the petals of Layer 3 fall between the petals of Layer 4. Place Layer 2 on top of Layer 3, rotating it again by about 25 degrees. Finally, place Layer 1 on top, rotated once more.

Once you’re happy with the arrangement, stitch through all four center rings several times to hold them together firmly. Pull the thread tight and tie off securely. Weave in all ends.

If you like, you can add a French knot or a small button in the center to finish the flower and cover where the layers meet. A few small yellow French knots clustered in the center make a beautiful stamen effect.

Free PDF Pattern Download

The full pattern, including a stitch diagram and assembly illustration, is available as a free PDF download. Simply click the download button below to save it to your device. No email address or account is required — just a free pattern, ready to print or save.

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The PDF is formatted for easy printing on standard letter-size or A4 paper and includes all four layer patterns, a materials list, stitch diagram, and finished size information.

Tips for Success

Block your petals before assembly. Even a light misting with water and pinning to a foam board will make your petals much easier to assemble and give the finished flower a more polished look. Cotton yarns respond particularly well to wet blocking.

Adjust your hook for tension. If your petals are curling too much or not enough, try going up or down half a hook size. The petal shape is sensitive to tension, and a small adjustment can make a big difference.

Use a stitch marker in the foundation round. Keeping track of where each petal starts can get confusing, especially on the larger layers. A small stitch marker placed every two stitches helps you count accurately and keeps your petals evenly spaced.

Don’t skip the slip stitches between petals. Those sl sts travel across the foundation ring between petals and are what keep the center flat and tidy. If you skip them, the center will pucker and the petals won’t lie flat.

Work the yarn tail into the center before assembly. Rather than weaving in ends after the layers are stacked, it’s much easier to handle each layer individually while it’s still flat.

Color Ideas and Customization

The Crochet Camellia Rose looks stunning in a single solid color — think a deep burgundy, a soft blush pink, a creamy ivory, or a rich coral. But there are so many other ways to play with color.

An ombre camellia uses different values of the same hue across the four layers. Start with your darkest shade for Layer 4, move to a medium tone for Layer 3, a lighter tone for Layer 2, and your palest shade for Layer 1. The effect is dramatic and beautiful, particularly in pinks and purples.

A two-tone camellia uses one color for the outer two layers and a contrasting color for the inner two layers. Try a dusty sage green with a soft white center, or a navy blue with a pale lavender interior.

Metallic or sparkle yarn in the center layer adds a touch of glamour and works beautifully for holiday decorations or special occasion accessories.

Ways to Use Your Finished Camellia Rose

Once you have one finished, you’ll want to make ten more. The good news is this flower finds a home in just about any project you can imagine.

Hair accessories: Stitch your camellia to a bobby pin, a hair comb, or a barrette for an elegant hair piece. The size and structure of this flower makes it particularly well-suited to larger clips and combs.

Brooches: Glue or sew a brooch pin to a small felt circle, then attach that to the back of your camellia. Pin it to a coat lapel, a scarf, or a bag strap.

Wreaths: Make a dozen camellias in varying sizes and colors and hot-glue them to a grapevine or foam wreath base. Fill the gaps with crochet leaves, felt greenery, or ribbon.

Gift wrapping: A single camellia wired to a ribbon makes the most beautiful handmade gift topper. The recipient often saves the flower long after the gift is gone.

Home decor: Arrange several camellias in a small vase or basket for a permanent floral arrangement that never needs watering. Stiffen the petals with fabric starch for a more rigid, realistic look.

Garlands: String a series of camellias along a length of twine or ribbon for a party garland, a mantel decoration, or a backdrop for photos.

Clothing embellishments: Tack a camellia to a cardigan, a tote bag, or a pair of slip-on shoes for a personalized touch.

Making It Your Own Size

The pattern as written produces a finished flower approximately 3 to 3.5 inches in diameter when worked in DK weight yarn. If you want a larger bloom, switch to bulky yarn and a larger hook — you can easily achieve a 5-inch or 6-inch flower this way, which is stunning for home decor or as a centerpiece embellishment.

For a miniature version, use fingering weight or lace weight yarn with a 2mm or 2.5mm hook. The resulting flower is only about 1.5 inches across and makes the most adorable stitch marker, bookmark topper, or earring.

Caring for Your Crochet Camellia

Most yarn flowers are not intended for regular washing, but if yours gets dusty or needs freshening up, a gentle hand wash in cool water works well for cotton and acrylic versions. Reshape while damp and allow to air dry flat. Avoid wringing or twisting the petals, as this can distort their shape. For flowers treated with fabric stiffener, spot-clean only.

Sharing Your Makes

If you use this pattern to make your own Crochet Camellia Rose, please share it! Seeing how different yarn choices, color combinations, and finishing touches completely transform the same basic pattern is one of the great joys of the crafting community. Tag your projects on Instagram, Ravelry, or Pinterest so others can find inspiration in your work.

Every crafter brings something different to a pattern — a new color palette, a clever use for the finished flower, a modification that makes the construction easier or the result even more beautiful. That kind of community creativity is what keeps patterns like this one alive and evolving long after they’re first published.

Now grab your hook, choose your favorite color, and make yourself a camellia