Terracotta Marigold Crochet Drawstring Pouch Pattern – Floral Bag Tutorial

There is something deeply satisfying about a project that looks intricate but works up faster than you expect. This terracotta marigold crochet drawstring pouch is exactly that kind of project. With its warm, earthy tones and delicate floral texture, this bag looks like something you might find at a boutique artisan market — but you can make it yourself in a weekend with a few skeins of yarn and a hook you probably already own. Whether you are crocheting your first structured bag or you have been making pouches for years, this pattern offers enough texture and technique to keep things interesting from start to finish.

The color palette here is the real star. Terracotta has surged in popularity across home décor, fashion, and handmade crafts over the past few seasons, and when you pair that warm brick-orange with golden marigold yellow, the result feels simultaneously vintage and very current. Think of the colors of dried flowers hanging in a pottery studio, or the warm fade of a late summer afternoon. This is a bag that people will notice and ask about.

Let’s walk through everything you need to know to make this pouch from scratch.

Materials You Will Need

Before you cast on a single stitch, gather your supplies so you can work through the pattern without interruption.

Yarn: You will need approximately 150 grams of worsted weight yarn in terracotta (a warm brick-red or burnt orange shade works beautifully), and about 50 grams in golden marigold yellow. If you want to add a third accent color — cream or dusty sage pair wonderfully with this palette — keep another small amount on hand. The pattern uses worsted weight because it creates a firm, structured fabric that holds the pouch’s shape even when it is filled.

Hook: A 5.0mm (H/8) crochet hook is ideal for worsted weight yarn and gives you the tight, structured gauge this bag needs. If your stitches tend to run loose, drop down to a 4.5mm hook.

Notions: You will need a yarn needle for weaving in ends, a pair of scissors, two stitch markers, and about 1.5 meters of either macramé cord, leather cord, or twisted cotton rope in a complementary color for the drawstring. A small piece of cardboard can help with blocking the flower appliqués if you want perfectly shaped petals.

Gauge: 14 single crochets and 16 rows equal approximately 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet with a 5.0mm hook. Gauge is important for this pattern because the bag needs to be a specific size to accommodate the drawstring channel. If you are off by more than half a stitch per inch, adjust your hook size accordingly.

Finished Size: The completed pouch measures approximately 8 inches wide and 10 inches tall before the drawstring channel, giving you a roomy bag that can hold a wallet, phone, keys, small cosmetics, or serve as a gift bag for a special occasion.

Abbreviations and Stitch Guide

This pattern uses standard US crochet terminology.

ch — chain
sl st — slip stitch
sc — single crochet
hdc — half double crochet
dc — double crochet
tr — treble crochet
MR — magic ring
BLO — back loop only
FLO — front loop only
rep — repeat
sp — space
st(s) — stitch(es)
rnd — round
RS — right side

Understanding the Construction

The pouch is worked in the round from the bottom up. You will begin with a flat oval base, then work the sides vertically in rounds until the bag reaches the desired height. The drawstring channel is created using a simple row of chain spaces near the top of the bag, and the marigold flowers are made separately as appliqués and sewn on at the end.

This construction method means the bag has no seams on the sides, which gives it a clean, professional look. The base is slightly structured, so the bag sits upright on a flat surface — a detail that makes it especially appealing as a gift pouch.

Part One: The Oval Base

The oval base gives this pouch its slightly wider-than-tall shape, which is more functional than a round base and easier to fill without the contents bunching at the bottom.

Foundation: Chain 12 in terracotta.

Round 1: Starting in the second chain from the hook, sc 10 across. Work 3 sc into the last chain (this is the end of the oval). Now rotate your work and sc along the opposite side of the foundation chain, working 10 sc. Work 2 sc into the first chain (the beginning of the oval). Join with a sl st to the first sc. You now have 25 stitches around. Place a stitch marker at the beginning of the round.

Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc into the first st (increase), sc 9, work 2 sc into each of the next 3 stitches (3 increases), sc 9, work 2 sc into each of the last 2 stitches. Join. You now have 31 stitches.

Round 3: Ch 1. Sc 1, work 2 sc into next st, sc 9, (sc 1, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc 9, sc 1, 2 sc in next st, sc 1. Join. You now have 37 stitches.

Round 4: Ch 1. Sc 2, 2 sc in next st, sc 9, (sc 2, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc 9, sc 2, 2 sc in next st. Join. You now have 43 stitches.

At the end of Round 4 you should have a firm, flat oval that sits without curling. If the edges are curling upward, your tension is too tight and you should loosen your grip slightly or move up a half hook size. If the oval is ruffling or buckling, your tension is too loose and you should tighten up.

Part Two: The Sides

Now you will transition from working flat to building the walls of the pouch. This transition is the most important technical moment in the pattern — it determines whether your bag has a crisp bottom edge or a soft, undefined one.

Round 5 (Transition Round): Ch 1. Work 1 sc into the BLO of every stitch around. Join. This pulls the work upward and creates that clean, squared-off corner between the base and the sides.

Round 6 onward: Work sc in both loops as normal, continuing in rounds, until the sides measure approximately 8 inches from the transition round. This will take roughly 32 additional rounds in single crochet. Keep your stitch marker at the beginning of each round so you do not lose track of where the round starts — it is easy to spiral off course after 20 or so rounds.

If you want to add a subtle texture to the sides, work every other round in BLO only. This creates a ridged, ribbed effect that catches the light beautifully and adds a tactile element without complicating the pattern. It is entirely optional but highly recommended if you want that handcrafted, artisan look.

At the end of the side section, do not fasten off. You will move directly into the drawstring channel.

Part Three: The Drawstring Channel

The drawstring channel is simply a row of evenly spaced chain loops worked near the top of the bag. These loops create the holes through which your cord will thread.

Round 1 of Channel: Ch 1. *Sc 3, ch 3, skip 2 stitches*. Repeat from * to * around the entire bag. End with sl st to join. The exact number of repetitions will depend on your stitch count, so count around your bag before you begin this round. You should have a stitch count divisible by 5 (sc 3 + skip 2). If needed, adjust your total stitch count by one or two increases or decreases on the round before the channel.

Round 2 of Channel: Ch 1. Sc around, working 2 sc into each ch-3 space and 1 sc into each sc from the previous round. Join.

Round 3 of Channel: Ch 1. Sc around. Join.

This gives you a tidy, stable channel that will hold the drawstring securely without the holes stretching out of shape over time.

Part Four: The Top Edging

Work 1 round of hdc around the very top of the bag. This creates a slightly thicker, more finished-looking edge that keeps the bag’s opening from rolling inward. Fasten off and weave in your end.

Part Five: The Marigold Flower Appliqués

This is where the bag goes from lovely to extraordinary. The marigold flowers are worked separately in golden yellow and then sewn onto the front of the finished bag. You can make as many or as few as you like — three flowers arranged in a loose cluster looks elegant and intentional, while five or six flowers cascading from one corner gives the bag a more exuberant, romantic feeling.

Each flower:

Begin with a magic ring in marigold yellow.

Round 1: Ch 1, work 6 sc into the MR. Pull the ring tight and join.

Round 2: *Ch 4, tr 3 into the next sc, ch 4, sl st into the same sc*. Rep from * to * into each of the 6 sc around. You will have 6 petals.

For a double-layered flower with extra dimension, work a second layer of smaller petals underneath:

After completing Round 2, do not fasten off. Slip your hook through the Round 1 stitches (underneath the petals you just made) and work a second set of smaller petals: *ch 3, dc 2 into next st, ch 3, sl st into same st*. Repeat around all 6 stitches.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

If you want to add a small terracotta center to your flowers, make a small circle in terracotta (ch 3, join into a ring, work 6 sc into ring, join) and sew it over the center of the flower before attaching it to the bag.

Block your flowers if you want perfect, open petals. Simply dampen them, pin the petals outward on a foam mat or piece of cardboard, and allow them to dry completely before removing the pins.

Part Six: The Leaves (Optional but Recommended)

Leaves add a natural, botanical quality that makes the floral composition feel complete rather than scattered.

Each leaf:

Ch 10.

Starting in the second chain from the hook: sl st 1, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 3, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st 1. Work 3 sl sts into the end chain, then continue along the opposite side of the foundation chain in reverse: sl st 1, sc 1, hdc 1, dc 3, hdc 1, sc 1, sl st 1. Join to the beginning. Fasten off.

Make 4 to 6 leaves in a deep terracotta or sage green, depending on how earthy versus botanical you want the color palette.

Assembling the Bag

Lay your finished pouch flat and arrange your flowers and leaves on the front panel before sewing anything down. Step back and look at the arrangement. The most natural-looking compositions are slightly asymmetrical — clustering the flowers toward one side or staggering them at different heights rather than lining them up in a row.

Once you are happy with the arrangement, use your yarn needle and the long tails left on each piece to sew each flower and leaf securely to the bag. Make sure to catch the yarn of the bag itself rather than just the surface stitches, so the appliqués hold firmly even when the bag is full and jostled.

Threading the Drawstring

Cut two lengths of cord, each approximately 60 inches long. Thread the first cord through every other channel hole, starting and ending on the same side of the bag. Thread the second cord in the opposite direction, so each side of the bag has both ends of one cord. When you pull both ends on each side simultaneously, the bag draws closed evenly.

Knot the ends of each cord with a simple overhand knot, or add wooden beads or tassel ends if you want extra decoration. If you used macramé cord, you can unravel the ends into fringe for a bohemian finish that suits the marigold-and-terracotta palette perfectly.

Care Instructions

Hand wash this pouch in cool water with a gentle soap. Reshape it while damp and lay it flat to dry. Avoid wringing or machine washing, as this can distort the flower appliqués and stretch the drawstring channel. Most worsted weight cotton and cotton-blend yarns hold up beautifully to regular use if cared for gently.

Ways to Customize This Pattern

The base pattern is a wonderful starting point, but it is also endlessly adaptable. You can make a smaller version using fingering weight yarn and a 2.5mm hook for a jewelry pouch or earring bag. You can work the sides in a mesh stitch rather than solid single crochet for a more open, airy summer bag. You can swap the terracotta for dusty rose and the marigold for cream to create a softer, more romantic color palette suited to a bridal or baby shower gift.

For a more structured bag that holds its shape even when empty, crochet the entire pouch in cotton yarn (which has very little stretch) or work a second layer of single crochet on the inside of the base and first few rounds of the sides.

If you want to use this as a market bag or everyday tote, simply increase the size of the base and add more rounds to the sides. The construction is the same regardless of size.

A Note on Yarn Choices

The color and fiber you choose will make an enormous difference to the finished look of this bag. For the richest, most saturated terracotta color, look for mercerized cotton yarns, which have a slight sheen that makes the color pop. Matte cotton gives a more rustic, handcrafted feel. Wool or wool-blend yarns will give you a softer, slightly fuzzier texture that blurs the stitch definition a little — beautiful in its own way, but the flower appliqués will show slightly less crisp detail.

Some yarn brands that work particularly well for this palette include any of the worsted weight cotton options from Paintbox, Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton, and We Are Knitters’ The Cotton. If you are in the UK or Europe, Paintbox Simply DK in Terracotta is a joy to work with.

Finishing Touches and Gifting Ideas

This pouch makes a stunning handmade gift for almost any occasion. Fill it with small luxuries — a bar of artisan soap, a tea light candle, a few packets of herbal tea, or a piece of jewelry — and the packaging becomes part of the gift. The recipient gets a functional, beautiful bag they can reuse long after the original contents are gone.

You can also use this pattern to make a coordinating set: a small pouch for a gift card, a medium pouch for a candle, and a larger version for a bottle of wine or a small book. Tied together with a ribbon, a set of three terracotta marigold pouches in graduated sizes is one of the most impressive handmade gift presentations you can put together.

If you are a maker who sells your work, this bag photographs exceptionally well against neutral backgrounds — raw linen, white plaster walls, dried botanicals, or a simple wooden surface. Style it with a few loose dried marigold flowers, a terracotta pot, or a stack of linen fabric for an aesthetic that performs strongly on social media and in online shop listings.

Wrapping Up

This terracotta marigold crochet drawstring pouch is the kind of project that reminds you why you fell in love with crochet in the first place. It is tactile, colorful, genuinely useful, and full of small satisfying moments — the crisp edge of the base transition, the way the flower petals open up as you work them, the soft jingle of cord beads as the finished pouch pulls shut. From the first oval base to the last sewn-down leaf, it is a project worth taking your time with.

If you make this pattern, please share your finished bag. Every maker brings something different to a pattern — a slightly different yarn, a different arrangement of flowers, a custom color palette — and seeing those variations is one of the greatest joys of sharing a design. Tag your photos and leave a comment below if you have questions about any step along the way. Happy crocheting.