How to Crochet a Daisy Flower Pot – Free Pattern
There is something quietly magical about combining two of the most satisfying crafts in the world: crochet and gardening. A crocheted daisy flower pot cover transforms a plain terracotta or plastic pot into a charming, cottage-style piece that looks just as lovely on a windowsill as it does on a porch table. Whether you are a beginner looking for your first functional crochet project or an experienced maker searching for a quick, cheerful make, this free pattern is for you.
This step-by-step guide walks you through everything you need to know, from the materials you will gather to the finishing touches that make your pot cover look polished and professional. The pattern features a simple pot base, a textured body, and sweet little daisy appliqués that give the whole piece its signature look. Best of all, you can adapt the sizing to fit almost any pot you own.
What You Will Need
Before you begin, it helps to gather all your materials in one place. There is nothing more frustrating than starting a project only to realize you are missing a key tool halfway through.
Yarn: You will need a medium weight (Category 4) cotton or cotton-blend yarn. Cotton is ideal for this project because it holds its shape well, is easy to wash, and has a crisp stitch definition that makes the daisies really pop. You will need roughly 200 to 250 yards of your main color (this is the pot body — a sage green, cream, or terracotta color works beautifully), plus small amounts of white and yellow for the daisy appliqués.
Hook: A 4.0mm or 5.0mm crochet hook. The exact size depends on your yarn and tension, so check your gauge swatch before you begin.
Additional supplies: A yarn needle for weaving in ends, scissors, stitch markers, and a standard 4-inch terracotta pot (or whichever size you are making this for). You may also want a small amount of craft glue or floral wire if you wish to attach the daisies more firmly, though simple hand-stitching works perfectly.
Gauge and Sizing
Gauge: 14 stitches and 16 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in single crochet using a 5.0mm hook and medium weight cotton yarn. Gauge is important here because you are creating a cover that needs to fit snugly around a specific pot size.
This pattern is written for a standard 4-inch diameter pot, which is approximately 4 inches tall and 5 inches wide at the rim. If your pot is larger or smaller, the adjustment section toward the end of this post will help you resize the pattern with confidence.
Abbreviations and Stitch Guide
If you are relatively new to crochet, here is a quick reference for the abbreviations used throughout this pattern:
ch – chain
sl st – slip stitch
sc – single crochet
dc – double crochet
hdc – half double crochet
MR – magic ring (also called a magic circle)
st(s) – stitch(es)
rnd – round
sp – space
rep – repeat
BLO – back loop only
FLO – front loop only
All rounds in this pattern are worked in continuous rounds unless otherwise stated. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round so you do not lose your place.
Pattern Notes
This pot cover is worked from the bottom up, starting with the base and building up the sides. The sides are worked in joined rounds to keep the fabric neat and cylindrical. The daisy flowers are made separately and then sewn onto the finished pot cover.
The base of this pot is worked in a flat circle, similar to the way many amigurumi projects begin. The sides transition into straight rounds to create the cylindrical body of the pot cover.
If you prefer, you can add a simple border around the rim of the pot cover for a finished look. Instructions for an optional picot border are included at the end.
Part One: The Pot Base
Start with your main color yarn.
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the tail to close the ring tightly. (6 sts)
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc in first st, 2 sc in next st. Repeat from to around. (18 sts)
Round 4: Sc in first 2 sts, 2 sc in next st. Repeat from to around. (24 sts)
Round 5: Sc in first 3 sts, 2 sc in next st. Repeat from to around. (30 sts)
Round 6: Sc in first 4 sts, 2 sc in next st. Repeat from to around. (36 sts)
At the end of Round 6, you should have a flat circle approximately 3.5 to 4 inches in diameter. Hold it up against the bottom of your pot. It should cover the base with a little ease. If your pot is wider at the base, continue increasing in the same pattern (adding one more sc before each increase stitch) until the circle fits.
Part Two: The Pot Body (Sides)
Now you will transition from the flat base to the straight sides of the pot cover. This is done by working into the back loop only for one round, which creates a nice clean fold at the base of the pot.
Round 7 (transition round): Working in BLO only, sc in each stitch around. (36 sts)
This is the round that folds the fabric upward to form the sides. After this round, you will work in both loops as usual.
Round 8 through Round 22: Sc in each stitch around. (36 sts each round)
That is 15 rounds of straight single crochet. This section should be approximately 3.5 to 4 inches tall when finished, which is the right height for a standard 4-inch pot. You want the cover to sit just at or slightly below the rim of the pot so the top edge does not flop over.
Tip: Slide your pot inside the cover regularly as you work to check the fit. Every pot is slightly different, and it is much easier to adjust the height as you go than to rip back rows at the end.
At the end of Round 22, slip stitch to join the round, then fasten off and weave in your ends.
Part Three: The Daisy Flowers
This is where the project truly comes to life. Each daisy is a small, individual flower made in two parts: a center circle and a set of petals. You will make three to five daisies depending on how full you want the design to look.
Daisy Center
Using yellow yarn and a 4.0mm hook:
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the tail to close. Sl st to join. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. (6 sts)
The center is intentionally small and button-like. It should be a little yellow disc, roughly the size of a shirt button.
Daisy Petals
Using white yarn and a 4.0mm hook:
Round 1: Make a magic ring. Work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the tail to close. (6 sts) — Do not join; work in continuous rounds.
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 sts)
Round 3: Work 2 hdc in each stitch around. (24 sts) — At this point, your circle is becoming the base for the petals.
Sl st to join. Do not fasten off. Now you will work the petals directly off this base round.
Petal round: Ch 7, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, sl st in next st of the base circle, sl st in following st of the base circle. Repeat from to until you have worked all the way around. You should get approximately 8 to 10 petals depending on your tension.
Fasten off and weave in the starting tail, leaving the other tail long enough to sew the petals onto the pot.
Assembling the Daisy
Take one yellow center and one white petal piece. Using your yarn needle and the long tail from the yellow center, stitch the yellow disc directly onto the middle of the white petal base, going around in a circle to secure it firmly. The petals should fan out from beneath the center.
Part Four: Attaching the Daisies
Lay your finished pot cover flat on a surface and arrange your daisies on it. A classic arrangement is a small cluster of two or three daisies near the center-front of the pot cover, with one or two more scattered slightly off to one side to create a natural, asymmetrical look. This tends to feel more like something from a cottage garden than a perfectly symmetrical arrangement.
Once you are happy with the placement, pin the daisies in place with sewing pins. Then use your yarn needle and the remaining long tails to stitch each daisy securely onto the pot cover. Stitch through both the daisy and the pot cover fabric, going around the outer edge of the petal base several times to secure everything firmly. You do not want the daisies shifting around after your pot is on display.
Weave in all remaining ends carefully on the wrong side of the fabric.
Optional: Rim Border
If you would like a more finished look at the top of the pot cover, try this simple picot border.
With your main color or white yarn, join yarn to any stitch at the top edge of the pot cover.
Border Round: Sc in next 2 sts, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook (picot made). Repeat from to around the entire rim. Join with a sl st at the beginning of the round. Fasten off and weave in ends.
This creates a delicate, lace-like edge that echoes the soft look of the daisies beautifully.
How to Resize This Pattern
One of the best things about a pot cover pattern is how easy it is to adapt. The core logic is simple: your base needs to match the bottom of your pot, and your sides need to be tall enough to cover the body.
For a larger pot, continue the increase rounds in the base section (adding one more sc before the increase stitch with every round) until your circle matches the base diameter of your pot. Then work the BLO transition round and continue straight rounds until the cover reaches the correct height.
A handy tip is to measure the circumference of your pot at its widest point, then divide that measurement by your stitch gauge (stitches per inch) to determine how many stitches you need in your rounds. For example, if your pot is 18 inches in circumference at the widest point and your gauge is 3.5 stitches per inch, you will need approximately 63 stitches in your widest round.
For smaller pots like a 2-inch succulent pot, you can stop the base increases at Round 3 or 4 and reduce the side rounds accordingly.
Tips for a Beautiful Finished Pot Cover
Working with cotton yarn is different from working with acrylic, and a few small habits make a big difference in the finished look of your project.
Keep your tension consistent throughout. Cotton yarn has very little stretch, which means uneven tension shows more obviously than it would in a stretchy acrylic yarn. If you find your tension varies when you are tired or distracted, set the project down and come back to it fresh.
Block your finished pot cover before attaching the daisies. Wet blocking cotton is easy — simply soak the cover in lukewarm water for a few minutes, gently squeeze out the excess water without wringing, and lay it flat to dry in the shape of your pot. This evens out the stitches and gives the whole piece a more professional finish.
If you want the pot cover to be water-resistant for outdoor use, consider spraying the finished piece with a fabric waterproofing spray. However, keep in mind that if water pools inside the cover, it can damage both the yarn and the pot over time. For outdoor plants that need regular watering, a pot cover works best as a decorative sleeve that you remove during watering and replace when the pot drains.
Choose colors that work with your home’s palette. While the classic white petals and yellow center are timeless and beloved, there is nothing stopping you from making lavender daisies with a cream center, or golden daisies with a rust-orange pot cover, or even deep burgundy daisies with a dusty green body for a more moody, autumnal feel.
Caring for Your Crochet Pot Cover
Cotton crochet items are easy to care for. Hand wash your pot cover in cool water with a small amount of gentle dish soap or wool wash, then lay it flat to dry. Avoid putting it in the dryer, which can cause cotton to shrink and distort the shape. If the cover gets dusty (which it will, sitting on a windowsill), a quick shake and a gentle spot clean is usually all it needs.
Why This Makes Such a Lovely Gift
A crocheted daisy pot cover, especially when paired with a small potted plant or even a simple candle inside the pot, makes one of the most personal and charming handmade gifts you can give. It works for housewarmings, birthdays, teacher appreciation days, Mother’s Day, Easter, and really any occasion that calls for something cheerful and handmade.
If you are making a batch as gifts, you can work efficiently by chain-crocheting the base circles for all your covers first, then moving on to the sides, and finishing with all the daisies. This kind of assembly-line approach means you stay in a rhythm with each stitch type and work much faster than you would if you stopped and started each pot from scratch.
Share Your Make
If you crochet this daisy flower pot cover, I would absolutely love to see how it turns out. Whether you stick closely to the original pattern or adapt it into something completely your own, every finished piece reflects the individual crafter who made it. Tag your photos on social media and share them with the crochet community — projects like this one are small enough to be approachable and lovely enough to inspire, and there is always room for more handmade beauty in the world.
Happy crocheting, and may your daisies always be in full bloom.
