Craft Your Own Calla Lilies: Crochet Wall Art Pattern

There is something quietly elegant about a calla lily. The way the single petal curves around itself like a whispered secret, the long clean stem, the simple but unmistakable silhouette — it is a flower that has inspired painters, sculptors, and photographers for centuries. And now, with a hook, some yarn, and a little patience, you can bring that same timeless beauty into your home as a piece of handmade wall art that will genuinely stop people in their tracks.

Crochet wall art has become one of the most beloved trends in fiber crafts, and for good reason. Unlike knitted or woven pieces, crocheted flowers and botanicals have a dimensional quality that photographs cannot fully capture. Each petal holds its shape, each stem bends just so, and the finished arrangement has a sculptural presence that mass-produced décor simply cannot replicate. When you make it yourself, you also get to choose your colors, your size, your composition — everything is entirely yours.

This pattern is designed to be approachable for intermediate crocheters. If you have mastered the basic stitches — chain, slip stitch, single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet — and you are comfortable working in rows and rounds, you will be perfectly equipped to follow along. Complete beginners can absolutely give this a try as well; just keep a stitch guide nearby and take your time with the spiral petal, which is the heart of the whole design.

Let us get into everything you need to know.

What You Will Need

Before you begin, gather your materials. Having everything on hand before you start will make the process much smoother and more enjoyable.

Yarn: Worsted weight yarn works beautifully for this project. For a classic white calla lily arrangement, you will want white or cream yarn for the blooms, deep green for the stems and leaves, and a small amount of golden yellow for the spadix (the central spike inside the flower). If you want to go with real-world calla lily varieties, consider blush pink, deep purple, soft peach, or even a rich burgundy for the blooms — all of these exist in nature and all of them make stunning wall art.

Hook: A 5mm (H/8) crochet hook is ideal for worsted weight yarn. You can size up to a 5.5mm if you prefer a slightly softer, more open fabric, or size down to a 4.5mm if you want a firmer, more structured bloom. The exact hook size matters less here than consistency, so use whatever feels comfortable in your hand.

Additional Materials: A tapestry or yarn needle for weaving in ends and seaming, a pair of scissors, florist wire or pipe cleaners in green (for the stems — these give your calla lilies that beautiful, gently curved posture), floral tape in green if you want to wrap the wire stems for a more polished finish, a wooden dowel or piece of driftwood for hanging, twine or thin rope for mounting your arrangement, and a small amount of fiberfill or polyfill stuffing for the spadix.

Optional: Stiffening spray or a mixture of equal parts white craft glue and water can be used to lightly starch the finished blooms and leaves. This helps the petal hold its iconic curl and gives the entire piece a more sculptural, long-lasting look. If you plan to hang this in a humid area like a bathroom or kitchen, stiffening is especially recommended.

Understanding the Calla Lily’s Shape

Before you pick up your hook, it helps to study the actual flower for a moment. A calla lily is technically not a lily at all — it belongs to the family Araceae — but its common name has stuck because of its lily-like grace. The large white “petal” you see is actually a spathe, a modified leaf that wraps around the spadix, which is the yellow finger-shaped spike in the center. The whole effect is of elegant simplicity: one large curved petal, one central spike, one long clean stem, and large glossy arrow-shaped leaves.

Your crochet version will replicate all of these elements. The spathe is worked as a shaped piece that naturally curls when you change tension along its edge. The spadix is a small stuffed cone. The stem is a length of chain stitches worked around florist wire, and the leaves are flat crocheted pieces shaped with increases and decreases. Together, they create something that is instantly recognizable and absolutely beautiful.

The Pattern

Abbreviations Used

Throughout this pattern, the following standard abbreviations apply: ch (chain), sl st (slip stitch), sc (single crochet), hdc (half double crochet), dc (double crochet), tr (treble crochet), inc (increase — work two stitches into the same stitch), dec (decrease — work two stitches together), sp (space), st (stitch), and RS/WS (right side/wrong side).

Part One: The Spathe (Main Petal)

The spathe is worked flat, beginning at the narrow tip and widening toward the open mouth of the flower.

Foundation: Chain 4. Join with a slip stitch to form a ring, or work into the fourth chain from the hook depending on your preference.

Row 1 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 2 dc into the ring, ch 2, work 3 dc into the ring. Turn. (You now have two clusters of 3 dc with a ch-2 space between them.)

Row 2: Ch 3, turn. Dc into first dc, dc into next dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into ch-2 sp, dc into next dc, 2 dc into top of turning ch. Turn. (14 stitches plus ch-2 sp.)

Row 3: Ch 3, turn. Dc into each dc across to ch-2 sp, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) into ch-2 sp, dc into each dc to end, 2 dc into top of turning ch. Turn. (18 stitches plus ch-2 sp.)

Rows 4–8: Repeat Row 3. By the end of Row 8, you should have approximately 38 stitches across plus your ch-2 corner.

Row 9 (Shaping the Mouth): Ch 1, sc across to ch-2 sp, 3 sc into ch-2 sp, sc across to end. Do not turn. Now you will work a border around the entire piece.

Edging Round: Working along the side edge of your piece, work sc evenly down the long side (approximately 1 sc per row end), then sc across the foundation chain at the narrow tip, then sc evenly up the other long side, then sl st to join at the first sc of the mouth. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for seaming.

This is your flat spathe. You will shape it into the iconic curl after blocking or stiffening.

Part Two: The Spadix (Central Spike)

Round 1: Using yellow yarn, ch 2. Work 6 sc into the second chain from the hook. Do not join — place a stitch marker and work in a continuous spiral. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: Sc in next st, inc in next repeat around. (18 sts)

Round 4: Sc in each st around. (18 sts)

Rounds 5–12: Sc in each st around. (18 sts each round)

Round 13: Sc in next st, dec repeat around. (12 sts) Stuff lightly with fiberfill.

Round 14: Dec around. (6 sts) Finish stuffing. Fasten off, leaving a tail. Thread the tail through remaining 6 sts, pull snug, and weave in.

Your spadix should be a plump, rounded cylinder — fat at the base and naturally tapering if you hold it with the opening at the bottom. Set it aside.

Part Three: The Stem

Cut a length of florist wire about 14–16 inches long (or longer if you want a more dramatic stem). Fold the top inch of the wire over on itself and squeeze it flat with your fingers — this prevents the sharp tip from poking through your work.

Foundation: Using green yarn, chain enough stitches to cover your wire length. A good rule of thumb is about 3 chains per inch of wire.

Working Stem: Sl st back into every chain, working tightly around the wire as you go. The wire should sit inside the column of stitches. At the bottom end, fold the last half inch of wire over and work a few extra slip stitches to secure it.

Alternatively, you can simply twist green floral tape tightly around the wire, overlapping each wrap by half. This is faster and gives a very realistic look. Many crafters combine both methods — crocheting for the upper stem and taping the lower portion where it will be secured to the hanger.

Part Four: The Leaves

Calla lily leaves are large, glossy, and arrow-shaped with a slight heart-shaped indentation at the base. For crochet purposes, you will make an oval shape that tapers to a point at both ends, then curl the edges slightly when finishing.

Foundation: Ch 20.

Round 1: Sc into second ch from hook, hdc into next 3 chs, dc into next 12 chs, hdc into next 2 chs, 3 sc into last ch (this is the tip). Now working back along the other side of the foundation chain: hdc into next 2 chs, dc into next 12 chs, hdc into next 3 chs, 2 sc into last ch. Sl st to join. (You have worked an oval.)

Round 2: Ch 1. Sc around the entire oval, working 3 sc into each of the two pointed ends to help them curve. Sl st to join.

Round 3: Ch 1. Working around, work the following pattern to create a slight ruffle along the top edge only (this helps the leaf curl naturally): sc in first 5 sts, hdc in next, dc in next, hdc in next, sc in next 3 repeat to the first pointed tip, 3 sc into the tip, then sc evenly around the bottom edge, 3 sc into the second tip, sl st to join. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Make two or three leaves per lily arrangement. You can make them in slightly different sizes for a more natural look.

Assembling Your Calla Lily

Now comes the part that is deeply satisfying: putting it all together.

Begin with your spathe. If you are using stiffening spray or glue solution, this is the time to apply it. Dampen the piece lightly with the stiffener, then shape it over a rounded object — a drinking glass or small bowl works perfectly — so that the long edges curl inward and upward, creating that characteristic trumpet shape. Pin it if needed and allow it to dry completely. This usually takes a few hours or overnight.

Once dry, hold the spathe with the narrow tip pointing downward and the wide mouth opening upward. Fold the long edges of the spathe so they overlap at the narrow tip, forming a cone shape at the bottom. Use your tapestry needle and matching yarn to seam the bottom two inches of this cone together. The upper portion should remain open and flared.

Insert the spadix into the center of the cone from the bottom, pushing it upward so the top of the yellow cylinder peeks out above the opening of the spathe. Use a few stitches to secure the spadix to the inside of the spathe at the base.

Next, insert the folded end of your wire stem into the base of the cone (where you seamed the spathe together). The folded tip of the wire should be inside the spadix area, and the long stem should extend straight down from the flower. Sew the base of the spathe firmly around the wire using your tapestry needle and green yarn, wrapping tightly several times and knotting securely. If you have floral tape, wrap it around the junction between the flower base and stem for added security and a polished look.

Gently bend the stem into your desired curve — calla lily stems tend to arch gracefully rather than stand perfectly straight. Attach your leaves to the stem by wrapping their yarn tails around the wire and securing with floral tape.

Creating the Wall Art Arrangement

For a classic wall art arrangement, make three calla lilies of slightly different heights: one standing tallest in the center, one slightly shorter and angled to the left, and one shorter still and angled to the right. This asymmetrical grouping is both visually dynamic and true to how calla lilies grow in the wild.

Tie your stems together at their base using a length of twine, then fan them out at the top so each bloom faces a slightly different direction. Wrap additional twine around the bundle for about two inches, then tie it off with a bow or simple knot.

To mount the arrangement, tie a length of twine between the two ends of a wooden dowel or piece of driftwood. Attach the flower bundle to the center of the dowel either by weaving the stems over it or by tying them firmly with twine. Add a few extra leaves tucked around the stems for fullness, and perhaps a few small crocheted buds in various stages of opening to add interest and depth.

Hang the dowel from a nail or hook at the desired height on your wall. Step back and adjust the angles of the blooms until the arrangement pleases you. The beautiful thing about wire stems is that you can reshape them at any time — your wall art never has to be frozen in one position.

Tips for a Beautiful Finished Piece

Tension matters more than you might think when crocheting botanicals. A tighter tension produces a sturdier petal that holds its shape better, while a looser tension creates a more relaxed, organic look. Neither is wrong — they just produce different aesthetics.

When choosing yarn, consider texture as well as color. A slightly shiny cotton or bamboo yarn gives calla lilies an almost waxy look that is very true to the real flower. A matte cotton has a softer, more painterly quality. Wool is warm and cozy but may not hold a crisp blocked edge as well as plant fibers.

Do not skip the blocking step. Whether you use stiffening spray or simply wet block with water and pins, blocking transforms a somewhat flat crocheted piece into something that looks genuinely sculptural. It is the step that separates a beginner’s first attempt from a piece you would proudly display in a gallery.

If you want your wall art to last for years without fading, use colorfast yarn and hang the piece away from direct sunlight. A spot in a hallway, bedroom, or living room away from south-facing windows is ideal.

Variations and Creative Ideas

Once you have mastered the basic calla lily, the variations are nearly endless. Try an all-white arrangement in a white frame for a stunning minimalist piece. Make a single giant oversized lily as a standalone statement. Create a wreath by arranging multiple lilies in a circle around a wire base. Mix calla lilies with other crocheted flowers — roses, dahlias, lavender sprigs — for a lush botanical composition.

You can also play with color blocking: make a spathe that transitions from white at the base to deep plum at the edges, achieved by switching yarn colors partway through the rows. Add texture by using a bobble stitch or popcorn stitch along the leaf edges. Embroider subtle veining details onto the leaves with a contrasting yarn.

If you make this project as a gift, consider framing the finished piece in a shadow box or floating frame for an extra-polished presentation. A crocheted calla lily arrangement in a shadow box, backed with linen fabric or watercolor paper, makes a wedding or anniversary gift that is genuinely unlike anything available in stores.

A Note on Patience and Process

Every crafter knows that some projects flow effortlessly and others ask for a little more of you. The calla lily, with its deceptively simple silhouette, rewards slow and careful work. Take your time with each piece, check your stitch counts, and do not rush the drying time after blocking. The assembly is where many crafters feel a little uncertain, but trust the process — once the spathe curls around the spadix and the stem takes its graceful arc, you will see the flower emerge, and the satisfaction is immense.

Handmade things carry something that manufactured objects simply do not: the memory of your hands, the specific afternoon you spent at the table with your hook and yarn, the choices you made about color and size and shape. Your crochet calla lily wall art will carry all of that. It will be completely, irreplaceably yours.

Hang it somewhere you love, and enjoy it for years to come.