16 DIY Crochet Flower Patterns | How to Crochet a Flower
There is something quietly magical about crocheting a flower. Whether you are brand new to the craft or someone who has been carrying a hook and yarn around for decades, a crochet flower is one of those small projects that never loses its charm. It can be finished in as little as ten minutes, yet it looks like something you spent hours on. You can stitch one onto a hat, scatter a few across a blanket, pin one to a tote bag, or simply set a finished bloom in a jar on your windowsill and feel genuinely proud of what your hands made.
This guide is for everyone. If you have never picked up a crochet hook in your life, the section below will walk you through the basic stitches you need to know. If you are already comfortable with the fundamentals, feel free to skip ahead to the patterns themselves. There are sixteen of them here, ranging from the simplest five-petal flower a beginner can finish in one sitting to more intricate layered roses and dimensional sunflowers that will keep an experienced crocheter happily occupied for an afternoon.
All of the patterns use standard yarn and basic hooks. None of them require specialty supplies. A skein of yarn, a hook in the right size, a yarn needle, and a pair of scissors are all you need to get started.
What You Need Before You Start
Yarn: Most of these flowers work beautifully in any weight of yarn, but worsted weight (size 4) is the most forgiving for beginners. It is thick enough that you can see your stitches clearly, and it works up quickly. For smaller, more delicate flowers, fingering weight or sport weight yarn creates a lovely, airy look. Cotton yarn is particularly popular for flowers because it holds its shape well and comes in vivid, saturated colors.
Hooks: Match your hook size to your yarn. Worsted weight yarn generally pairs with a 5.0 mm or 5.5 mm hook. Check the yarn label for the manufacturer’s recommendation and use that as your starting point. You can always go up or down a size depending on the tension you naturally crochet with.
Yarn needle: Also called a tapestry needle or darning needle. You will use this to weave in your yarn ends when you finish each flower.
Scissors: Sharp, small scissors make it easier to cut yarn cleanly close to your work.
Stitch markers: These are optional but helpful, especially for patterns worked in the round. A simple safety pin or a loop of contrasting yarn works just as well as a store-bought marker.
Basic Stitches to Know
If you are new to crochet, here is a quick reference for the stitches used throughout these patterns. Learning just four or five stitches is enough to make every single flower in this collection.
Slip knot: The starting point for almost every crochet project. Make a loop with your yarn, pull a second loop through the first, and tighten it gently onto your hook.
Chain stitch (ch): Yarn over and pull through the loop on your hook. This creates the foundation for most crochet projects and is also used within patterns to add height or create loops.
Slip stitch (sl st): Insert your hook, yarn over, and pull through both the stitch and the loop already on your hook in one motion. Used to join rounds and move your hook to a new position without adding height.
Single crochet (sc): Insert your hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over again and pull through both loops. This is the shortest and most compact of the standard stitches.
Half double crochet (hdc): Yarn over first, then insert your hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), then yarn over and pull through all three loops at once.
Double crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert your hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over and pull through two loops (two loops remain), yarn over and pull through the last two loops.
Treble crochet (tr): Yarn over twice, insert your hook, yarn over and pull up a loop (four loops on hook), then work off two loops at a time three times.
Magic ring (also called magic circle or adjustable ring): This technique lets you start working in the round with a closed center. Wrap the yarn around your fingers to form a ring, insert your hook, pull up a loop, and work your first round of stitches into the ring. Then pull the yarn tail to close the center tightly. It takes a few tries to feel comfortable, but it gives a much neater center than starting with a chain ring.
How to Read a Crochet Pattern
Crochet patterns use abbreviations. Once you know them, patterns are much easier to follow than they first appear. In every pattern below, the abbreviations match the standard US crochet terminology listed above. Numbers in parentheses at the end of a round or row indicate how many stitches you should have when that round or row is complete. Asterisks () mark a section of instructions that you repeat. For example, “sc, ch 3, skip 1 st; repeat from * 5 times” means you work that sequence six times total.
16 DIY Crochet Flower Patterns
1. Simple 5-Petal Beginner Flower
This is the perfect first project. It takes about fifteen minutes and uses only chain stitches and slip stitches, making it genuinely achievable for someone on their very first day of crocheting.
Start with a magic ring. Chain 1, then work 5 single crochets into the ring. Pull the tail to close the ring and join with a slip stitch to the first sc. You now have a small center circle with 5 stitches around it. For each petal, slip stitch into the next stitch, then chain 5 and slip stitch back into the same stitch to form a loop petal. Repeat this 5 times, once for each stitch around the circle. Fasten off and weave in your ends. Each petal is a simple loop, which you can leave as is for a graphic, modern look or push into a slightly rounded shape with your fingers.
This flower looks wonderful in a single bright color. Make a dozen in an afternoon and use them to embellish a wreath, a child’s headband, or a greeting card.
2. Classic Granny Square Flower Center
Many granny square patterns include a floral center, and once you know how to make it on its own, you will find endless uses for it. Work a magic ring, chain 3 (counts as first dc), work 11 more dc into the ring, join with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. You now have 12 double crochets in a circle. This solid center works as the heart of a daisy, a sunflower, or a layered rose.
3. Simple Daisy
This cheerful flower is a staple for a reason. Make the classic granny center above in yellow. Join a new color in any stitch for the petals. For each petal, chain 10 and slip stitch back into the same stitch. Move to the next stitch and repeat. Work one petal into each of the 12 stitches around the center, giving you 12 petals. Fasten off and weave in ends. Block lightly with a damp cloth to help the petals lie flat and spread evenly.
4. Two-Layer Rose
Roses are among the most requested crochet flower patterns, and this two-layer version is approachable even if you have only been crocheting for a few weeks.
Foundation row: Chain 31. Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across. (30 sc) Row 2: Chain 3, turn. Work 2 dc in each sc across. (60 dc) Fasten off leaving a long tail. Roll the piece from one end, coiling it loosely as you go, and use the yarn tail and a needle to stitch through the base as you roll, securing each layer. The result is a full, dimensional rose. For a larger bloom, work a second strip in a slightly different shade and attach it around the outside of the first.
5. Sunflower
Work a magic ring. Round 1: ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring, join. Round 2: ch 1, work 2 sc in each stitch around. (12 sc) Round 3: ch 1, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; repeat from around. (18 sc) Round 4: ch 1, sc in each stitch around. (18 sc) Join and fasten off with a brown or dark center color. Join golden yellow in any stitch. For each petal, ch 10, hdc in third ch from hook, dc in next 5 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch, sl st into the next stitch of the center. Repeat around all 18 stitches, then join a second round of petals between each first-round petal for a full, layered sunflower head. Attach to a stem of green twisted wire or a crochet chain for a stunning arrangement.
6. Tiny Forget-Me-Not
This miniature flower is ideal for delicate embellishment on jewelry or fine fabric. Use fingering weight yarn and a 2.5 mm hook. Magic ring, chain 1, work 5 sc into ring, pull closed, join. For each petal: ch 3, work 2 dc in the same stitch, ch 3, sl st into the same stitch, then sl st into the next stitch. Repeat 5 times. This creates 5 small, rounded petals. Finish with a tiny French knot in a contrasting color at the center using your yarn needle, or add a bead for extra dimension.
7. Layered Chrysanthemum
Start with a center: magic ring, ch 1, 8 sc into ring, join. Round 1 petals (inner layer): ch 5, sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 3 ch, sl st into next stitch of center; repeat from 8 times. Round 2 petals (outer layer): Working behind and between the first layer of petals, join yarn in any stitch of the center circle. Ch 7, sc in second ch from hook, sc in next 5 ch, sl st into same stitch; repeat from 8 times. The longer outer petals frame the shorter inner petals, creating the shaggy, full head of a chrysanthemum.
8. Hibiscus
Chain 5, join with sl st to form a ring. Round 1: ch 1, work 10 sc into ring, join. Round 2: For each petal, sl st into next st, ch 12, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 7 ch, hdc in last ch, sl st into next st of center; repeat from 10 times, working one petal for each of the 10 stitches. When finished, roll the base slightly to cup the petals inward. Add a long chain or twisted wire for a stamen. The hibiscus has a naturally tropical look and works beautifully in vivid pinks, reds, and corals.
9. Lavender Sprig
This is not a single bloom but a sprig of small clustered flowers. Make a chain of 20 stitches for the stem. At each of the last 8 chains, work 3 sc and sl st back to create tiny bud-like protrusions. Vary the lengths of the bud chains slightly (some 3 chains, some 4) for a natural, irregular look. Work several sprigs and bundle them together with a single yarn wrap for a full lavender bouquet. Soft purple and dusty green make it instantly recognizable.
10. Buttercup
Magic ring. Ch 1, work 5 sc into ring, pull closed. Ch 1, 3 dc in next st, ch 1, sl st into next st; repeat from around, working petals between stitches rather than into them for a more open, airy structure. The buttercup comes out slightly bowl-shaped, which is perfect for its naturally cupped appearance. Work it in soft yellow or cream.
11. Water Lily
Start with a white or pale pink base and a green center. Magic ring with green: ch 1, 12 sc into ring, join. Change to white or pink. Sl st into next st, ch 8, dc in third ch from hook, dc in next 4 ch, hdc in last ch, sl st back into same base stitch; repeat from around all 12 stitches for the first layer of petals. For the outer petals, join a slightly darker shade, skip every other stitch, and work petals from ch 10 in the same manner. Lightly starch and shape while damp so the petals curl gently upward, mimicking the floating cups of real water lilies.
12. Zinnia
Magic ring. Ch 2, work 12 hdc into ring, join. Round 2: sl st into next hdc, ch 6, sl st in second ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, sl st back into base stitch; repeat from 12 times. Round 3: Working between the first layer of petals, join a new color or the same color and work a second set of shorter petals (using ch 4 instead of ch 6) in each gap. The staggered petal layers give the zinnia its signature dense, spiraling look. These are wonderful in autumnal oranges, reds, and golds.
13. Poppy
Magic ring. Ch 1, work 6 sc into ring, join. Round 1: 2 sc in each stitch. (12 sc) This forms the small seed pod center. Fasten off in dark brown or black. Join bright red in any stitch. For each petal: ch 12, sc in second ch from hook, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 4 ch, hdc in next 2 ch, sc in last 2 ch, sl st back into base stitch. Work 6 petals total, evenly spaced. The relatively long petals with their gently tapered shape capture the wide, open look of a field poppy perfectly.
14. African Violet
Work a magic ring. Ch 1, 5 sc into ring, join. For each petal: sl st into next st, ch 4, work (dc, ch 1, dc) into the same chain space, ch 4, sl st back into the base stitch. Repeat 5 times. The pinched base and slightly wider top of each petal give the violet its characteristic heart-shaped petal look. Use deep purple, lavender, or violet yarn, and add tiny yellow chains at the center to suggest the bright stamen cluster.
15. Lotus Flower
The lotus requires a little patience but is deeply rewarding. Magic ring, 8 sc, join. Round 1: 2 sc in each stitch. (16 sc) Round 2: sc, 2 sc in next st; repeat from around. (24 sc) This forms a flat circular base. For the inner petals, join white or pale pink and work each petal as follows: ch 8, sc in second ch from hook and in each ch back to base, sl st into next base stitch; repeat from 12 times, evenly spaced around the inner circle. For the outer petals, work the same sequence but with ch 10, attaching them between each inner petal. The lotus lies flat or can be shaped into a bowl by gently pulling the petal tips upward and pinning until dry.
16. Spiral Rose
This is perhaps the most satisfying pattern of all because the rose takes shape almost on its own as you work. Chain 55. Row 1: Work 3 dc in the fourth chain from the hook and in each chain across. (You will have a long, ruffled strip.) Fasten off leaving a long tail. Begin rolling the strip from one end, keeping the ruffled edge on the outside and the flat edge as the base. As you roll, use your yarn needle to stitch through the flat base of each roll to keep it secure. The natural twist in the dc strip causes the spiral rose to bloom as if by itself. This pattern is beloved because it requires no shaping, no blocking, and no fuss.
How to Attach and Use Your Crochet Flowers
Once you have a collection of finished flowers, the possibilities for using them are genuinely endless. Sew them onto the brim of a sun hat for a summery, handmade touch. Cluster several across the yoke of a child’s sweater
