Crochet Pattern: Daffodil Decoration and Garland

There is something quietly magical about a daffodil. It pushes up through cold, reluctant soil while the rest of the world is still dormant, announcing spring with a kind of cheerful stubbornness that is hard not to admire. Capturing that spirit in yarn — holding it in your hands, looping it into something permanent and reusable — is one of the most satisfying projects a crocheter can take on. This crochet pattern for daffodil decorations and garland gives you exactly that: a way to bring early spring indoors any time of year, whether you drape it across a mantel, hang it in a child’s room, or use it to dress a table for an Easter gathering.

This pattern is written for intermediate beginners. If you can work in the round, increase stitches, and manage a small join, you have everything you need. The flowers are worked individually and then assembled into a garland, which means you can make as many or as few as you like — a single statement daffodil as a brooch, a trio tucked into a vase, or a long sweeping garland that winds around a staircase banister.

Let’s get into everything you need to know.

Materials You Will Need

Before you cast on (or rather, make your magic ring), gather your supplies. Having everything within reach makes the process much smoother.

Yarn: You will need a lightweight yarn in the following colors. DK weight (light 3) works beautifully for these flowers and gives them a delicate, realistic scale. Worsted weight will produce larger, bolder blooms if you prefer something with more visual impact from a distance.

• Yellow or golden yellow for the petals and trumpet (corona)
• A deeper orange or burnt orange for the trumpet rim, if you want realistic color variation
• Light green for the stem and leaves
• White is also a lovely option for a classic white and yellow daffodil or an all-white variety

Hook: A 3.5mm or 4mm crochet hook, depending on your yarn weight and tension. Go up a half size if your stitches feel tight.

Other supplies:

• Yarn needle for weaving in ends and assembling
• Scissors
• Small amount of polyfill stuffing if you want a slightly dimensional trumpet
• Stitch markers
• Optional: floral wire to stiffen stems, green floral tape to wrap wire
• Optional: a length of jute twine, ribbon, or thin rope for the garland base

Understanding Daffodil Anatomy (It Matters for Crochet)

One of the reasons people love crocheting flowers is that you learn a little botany along the way. A daffodil has two distinct parts that set it apart from other spring flowers. The outer ring of petals, technically called the perianth segments, fans out flat in six long, slightly pointed ovals. At the center sits the corona — that iconic trumpet or cup shape that gives daffodils their personality.

In this pattern, you will crochet the six outer petals as a single joined piece, then crochet the trumpet separately and attach it at the center. The stem and leaves are worked as simple tubes and flat strips respectively. Once you understand the structure, the whole flower comes together with satisfying logic.

Abbreviations Used in This Pattern

The following standard crochet abbreviations appear throughout this pattern. All stitches are US terminology.

• ch — chain
• sl st — slip stitch
• sc — single crochet
• hdc — half double crochet
• dc — double crochet
• tr — treble crochet
• inc — increase (two stitches in the same stitch)
• MR — magic ring
• BLO — back loop only
• FLO — front loop only
• PM — place marker
• st — stitch
• sp — space
• rep — repeat

The Daffodil Pattern

Part One: The Outer Petals

The six petals are worked in one continuous piece from a central magic ring. This keeps the flower neat at the back and eliminates the need for fussy individual petal seaming.

Begin with yellow yarn.

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 1, work 12 sc into the ring. Join with sl st to first sc. Pull the tail of the magic ring firmly to close the center. (12 sts)

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in next st, inc in next st; rep from around. Join with sl st. (18 sts)

Now you will divide the work into six individual petal sections. Each petal is worked on 3 stitches and built upward from there.

Single Petal (make 6, worked consecutively):

Turn so the wrong side faces you (or simply continue in the right direction — the petals will naturally curl toward the front as you build them).

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first st, hdc in next st, sc in next st. Turn. (3 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (3 sts)

Row 3: Ch 1, inc in first st, hdc in next st, inc in last st. Turn. (5 sts)

Row 4: Ch 1, sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc. Turn. (5 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog. Turn. (3 sts)

Row 6: Ch 1, sc3tog. Fasten off. (1 st — the petal tip)

After completing each petal, rejoin yarn to the next 3 stitches in Round 2 and repeat. Work all six petals this way. Once all petals are done, use your yarn needle to weave in the ends at each tip, or leave a tail to pull through to the back for a tidier finish.

For a more refined edge, you can work a single round of sl st or reverse sc around the perimeter of each petal. This gives the flower a slightly firmer, more defined shape and adds a lovely textural edge.

Part Two: The Trumpet (Corona)

The trumpet is the star of the daffodil show. Work it in yellow or orange, or start in yellow and switch to a deeper orange for the last round to mimic the natural gradient many daffodil varieties have.

Begin with yellow (or orange) yarn.

Round 1: MR, ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 11 dc into ring. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (12 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3, dc in same st, 2 dc in next st; rep from around. Join with sl st. (24 dc)

Round 3: Working in BLO, ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with sl st. (24 sts) — This creates a ridge that forms the bottom lip of the trumpet.

Round 4: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, inc in next st; rep from around. Join with sl st. (30 sts)

Round 5: Switch to orange (or continue in yellow if you prefer a uniform flower). Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join with sl st. (30 sts)

Round 6 (the ruffled rim): Ch 1, sc in next st, ch 2, sl st back into the sc just made; rep from around. Join. Fasten off.

This last round creates a gently ruffled, slightly wavy edge that mimics the soft crinkled rim of a real daffodil trumpet beautifully. If you want a more dramatic ruffle, work (sc, ch 3, sl st) in each stitch instead.

Lightly stuff the trumpet with a small pinch of polyfill before attaching it to the petal base. This gives it a three-dimensional, lifted quality that photographs especially well.

Part Three: Assembling the Daffodil Head

Lay the petal piece flat with the right side facing up. Center the trumpet on top of it, aligning the flat base of the trumpet with the central ring of the petals. Using yellow yarn and a yarn needle, stitch around the base of the trumpet in small, even stitches, working through both layers. Pull firmly but gently so the trumpet sits upright and centered.

If you find the center of the petal piece pulling or bunching, press it lightly with a damp cloth and let it dry flat before attaching the trumpet. Blocking the petal piece this way makes a significant difference in the final look.

Part Four: The Stem

Stems can be worked as simple crochet tubes or incorporated with wire for stiffness. Here is the basic crocheted stem.

With green yarn:

Make a ch of 25 (for approximately a 10-inch stem, adjustable to your preference).

Row 1: Starting in the second ch from hook, sl st in each ch across. Fasten off, leaving a long tail.

This creates a firm, cord-like stem. For a sturdier, rounder stem, work it as a continuous spiral:

MR, 4 sc into ring, do not join — continue working 1 sc in each st around in a continuous spiral until the stem reaches your desired length. Fasten off.

Attach the stem to the back of the flower head using the long tail, stitching through the central ring several times and knotting securely.

Part Five: The Leaf

Daffodil leaves are long, slender, and slightly cupped. These are worked flat as simple elongated shapes.

With green yarn:

Ch 20.

Row 1: Starting in second ch from hook, sc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 5 sts, dc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in last 2 sts. Ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Sc in each st across. Ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Sl st in each st back to beginning. Fasten off.

Work a sl st border around the entire leaf perimeter for a clean, defined edge. The slight variation in stitch height along the leaf gives it a natural pointed tip and a gentle taper.

Make two or three leaves per flower. Attach them at the base of the stem, angling them outward and slightly behind the flower for a natural look.

Making the Garland

Once you have made your daffodil heads — the number is entirely up to you, but a garland of seven to fifteen flowers looks generous and full — you can assemble them into a garland in a few different ways.

Method One: The Twine Garland

This is the simplest and most rustic approach. Cut a length of jute twine, ribbon, or thin rope to your desired finished garland length, adding a few extra inches at each end for hanging. Attach each daffodil head along the twine by tying the stem tightly around the twine at regular intervals, or by using the long yarn tails to knot the flower directly to the twine. Space flowers evenly or vary the spacing for a more organic, meadow-like arrangement. Tuck in extra leaves between flowers to fill gaps.

Method Two: The Chained Garland

Work a long foundation chain in green yarn — as long as you want your garland to be. Then attach flowers along it by stitching each stem directly to the chain at your chosen intervals. This gives the garland a more cohesive, crafted look and works especially well in a child’s room or nursery where a uniform, sweet aesthetic is the goal.

Method Three: Separate Blooms on a Ribbon

Sew each finished daffodil directly to a wide satin or grosgrain ribbon, with the flower head sitting on top of the ribbon and the stem hidden behind it. This makes a beautiful alternative to traditional bunting and works wonderfully as a spring table runner or chair decoration for a garden party.

Tips for a Beautiful Finished Result

A few small techniques make a noticeable difference in how your finished daffodils look.

Weave in your ends thoroughly and hide them behind the petals rather than through the center of the work, where they can sometimes show through the stitches. A dab of clear-drying fabric glue on the woven ends prevents any unraveling over time, which is especially useful if the garland will be handled frequently or stored and reused across multiple seasons.

Blocking is worth the small effort it takes. Spritz the finished flower with a little water, shape the petals with your fingers, and pin them flat on a foam blocking board or even a thick towel while they dry. The petals will hold their shape much better, and the whole flower will look more polished and intentional.

If you are working in acrylic yarn, blocking with steam rather than water works better. Hold a steam iron a few inches above the work without touching it, let the steam penetrate the fibers, and then shape gently by hand.

Color choices matter enormously for this project. Traditional yellow daffodils are always beautiful, but consider experimenting with cream petals and a peach trumpet, or a full white flower for a cool, elegant version. A gradient effect using a variegated yellow-to-orange yarn for the trumpet creates especially realistic-looking results.

How to Use Your Daffodil Decorations

The finished flowers and garland are versatile enough to work in many different settings. Drape the garland along a fireplace mantel for an Easter or spring display. Wind it around a wreath form made of grapevine or wire for a front door decoration. Attach individual flowers to hair clips for a whimsical spring accessory. Stitch a single daffodil to a plain canvas tote bag or cardigan for a handmade touch that draws compliments everywhere you wear it.

For gift wrapping, a single crocheted daffodil tied to a package with a ribbon makes a keepsake topper that the recipient can keep long after the paper has been recycled. For a spring wedding, a garland of crocheted daffodils in cream and white is a beautiful and lasting alternative to fresh flowers for table decorations, arches, or even bridesmaid accessories.

Teachers, librarians, and parents who run craft circles will find this pattern works well as a group project. The individual petals section is manageable for older children with some crochet experience, while the trumpet and assembly can be handled by more confident makers.

Storing and Caring for Your Garland

Crocheted decorations last for years when stored properly. After the season is over, gently fold the garland rather than rolling it tightly, which can distort the flower shapes. Lay it flat in a lidded storage box lined with tissue paper. A small sachet of lavender or cedar will discourage any moth activity if you are storing the garland long-term.

Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap if needed. Most acrylic and cotton yarns handle light hand washing well, but always check the fiber content of your specific yarn before immersing the whole garland in water, as some fibers will felt or lose their shape if agitated.

Final Thoughts

This daffodil crochet pattern is the kind of project that starts as a single flower and quietly multiplies into a garland, a wreath, a bowl of blooms on the kitchen table. There is something meditative about working small, repetitive shapes, especially when each one resolves into something as cheerful and recognizable as a daffodil.

Spring is a season that lifts the spirit, and a handmade decoration carries that feeling into the home in a way that a shop-bought item rarely does. Whether you follow this pattern exactly or use it as a starting point and adapt freely — changing colors, adjusting scale, experimenting with texture — the important thing is that you make something with your own hands that brings you joy.

Happy crocheting.